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Jerry,
Here's a direct link to the USAR manual:


Here's the University of Michigan digital collection; "Modern
Machine Shop Practice" vols 1&2 & "The Advanced Machinist" are in
here:


And a link to the USN manual (I could have sworn there was a link
on the 7x10 group):


Roy

Thanks Frank and Jerry,
The HF 4"-4 Jaw chuck I was refering to P/N# 47461 for 59.99 self
centering. Has anyone used that one? I thought about the 5" and read
up on it on mini-lathe.com. Still thinking about it. If you don't
want to go through the hasel of making a faceplate. Does anyone sell
a faceplate for the 5"? Our could the LMS 6.25 Faceplate be modified
our just used for the 5" chuck?
Thanks again,
Craig

Thanks Frank and Jerry,
The HF 4"-4 Jaw chuck I was refering to P/N# 47461 for 59.99 self centering. Has anyone used that one? I thought about the 5" and read up on it on mini-lathe.com. Still thinking about it. If you don't want to go through the hasel of making a faceplate. Does anyone sell a faceplate for the 5"? Our could the LMS 6.25 Faceplate be modified our just used for the 5" chuck?
Thanks again,
Craig

The 3-jaw chuck is more convenient for most work due
to the time savings of its self-centering feature. The
4 jaw is an almost essential accessory for precise
centering, off-center work and holding odd shapes, but
takes more time to set up the work.

Frank Hoose


--- Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote:

I bought the 5 inch 3 jawed chuck for my HF
7 x 10 and found it to
be extremely useful. I do a 4 inch 4 jaw chuck and
the 3 inch 3 jaw that
came with the lathe. The 5 inch works great for me.
I paid $60.00 and
shipping for it from Enco.

Jerry

At 08:45 AM 6/26/2003, you wrote:

I am looking to purchase a 4 inch 4 jaw chuck for

my Homier. LMS has

one for 69.00 and it is a independently adj., HF

has one for 59.00

self centering. Any suggestions? I've already

bought the adapter

plate from LMS. Just looking for the best chuck to

put on it.


[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]


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I am looking to purchase a 4 inch 4 jaw chuck for my Homier. LMS has
one for 69.00 and it is a independently adj., HF has one for 59.00
self centering. Any suggestions? I've already bought the adapter
plate from LMS. Just looking for the best chuck to put on it.

The round bits are nice in shop-made boring bars; easier to make a
round hole than a square hole (ease of manufacture is offset by
difficulty of aligning tool.)
On the 7x10 group, there are links to downloadable USN & USAR
training manuals and older, public domain texts.

Roy

Hi everyone,

I have a stupid question. I received my 7x12 mini lathe a couple
weeks ago, I ordered my cutting blades from harbor freight and they
came in today. Guess I was so excited about ordering my hhs cutting
bits that I realy didn't read the sales advertisement that well. I
thought I would get the same size cutting bits (got the 5 pc set)
I knew i was getting a cut off bit but i thought the other 4 bits
were 1/4" bits.

This is what I got: 1ea) 1/2 x 1/16 x 4 1/2
1ea) 1/8 x 2 1/2
1ea) 3/16 x 2 1/2
1ea) 1/4 x 2 1/2
1ea) 1/4 x 2 1/2 ( round bit )

So I guess what my question is what is the 1/4" round bit used for?

What is the small 1/8" bit used for, some small delicate work?

Thank you for your help in answering these question.

Kelvin



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Hi folks,

I am ready to purchase a 7x12 mini lathe and see a whoppin price
difference between grizzly and homier. I know the grizzly comes

with

2 extra tools (steady rest and 6 1/4" faceplate). Are there any
differences in the actual parts of the machines? are some parts

more

rugged on the grizzly (plasctic on homeier? vs. metal on grizzly?)

$299 sure sounds like a real good buy. I wanna get a little lathe

and

then build an upscaled gingery (with around 40" workspace between
centers)

Choice is important to me since I live only half hour drive from
grizzly tools and get get parts real easy.

-Hawk-

I am a newbie to the group. I know that many plastics
become brittle at (very) low temperatures. Some of
them need to be treated with liquid nitrogen to make
them brittle.

One experiment someone can try is to keep the piece in
a freezer for a couple of hours and then try to
machine it.

Liquid nitrogen is dangerous in some ways (don't try
to dip your body parts in it - they will break off
too) but something else that can be sprayed to cool
the work piece (The newer Freon?) may do the job.
Don't know how it will affect the cutting tool though.

I don't have a lathe yet. I joined the group to hang
around & read various discussions to get a feel of
what I should buy. May be in a few months ...

Chip_User
----------------------------------------------
--- Richard Albers <rralbers@...> wrote:
Snipped

We just live with it. I don't think it is
possible to break such
a soft material into smaller chips. It *may* be
possible to grab the
string with pliers and break it (or just hold it
away from the cut),
but I do not recommend this for most HSMs - it would
be too easy to
get into trouble. Like watching the chip,and
forgetting to stop the
cut before the bit hits the chuck (lots of us have
done that :-o).

Snipped