7x12MiniLathe@groups.io

4 inch chuck question

kraken_03

I am looking to purchase a 4 inch 4 jaw chuck for my Homier. LMS has 
one for 69.00 and it is a independently adj., HF has one for 59.00 
self centering. Any suggestions? I've already bought the adapter 
plate from LMS. Just looking for the best chuck to put on it.

Re: stupid question from a beginner

Robert Streimikes

#563

lecompte126 wrote:

What is the small 1/8" bit used for, some small delicate work?Some small boring bars use 1/8" bits.  I got one from Grizzly that required them.
Regards
Bob

Re: stupid question from a beginner

Jerry Smith

#562

Roy,
         Could you point the way to those government publications? It may 
help us all.

Jerry

Show quoted text

At 11:58 PM 6/25/2003, you wrote:
   The round bits are nice in shop-made boring bars; easier to make a
round hole than a square hole (ease of manufacture is offset by
difficulty of aligning tool.)
   On the 7x10 group, there are links to downloadable USN & USAR
training manuals and older, public domain texts.

Roy

Re: stupid question from a beginner

#561

The round bits are nice in shop-made boring bars; easier to make a 
round hole than a square hole (ease of manufacture is offset by 
difficulty of aligning tool.)  
   On the 7x10 group, there are links to downloadable USN & USAR 
training manuals and older, public domain texts.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "lecompte126" 
<lecompte126@h...> wrote:
Hi everyone,

I have a stupid question.  I received my 7x12 mini lathe a couple 
weeks ago, I ordered my cutting blades from harbor freight and they 
came in today.  Guess I was so excited about ordering my hhs cutting 
bits that I realy didn't read the sales advertisement that well.  I 
thought I would get the same size cutting bits (got the 5 pc set)
I knew i was getting a cut off bit but i thought the other 4 bits 
were 1/4" bits. 

This is what I got:  1ea) 1/2 x 1/16 x 4 1/2
                     1ea) 1/8 x 2 1/2  
                     1ea) 3/16 x 2 1/2 
                     1ea) 1/4 x 2 1/2
                     1ea) 1/4 x 2 1/2 ( round bit )

So I guess what my question is what is the 1/4" round bit used for?

What is the small 1/8" bit used for, some small delicate work?

Thank you for your help in answering these question.

Kelvin

Re: stupid question from a beginner

Jerry Smith

#560

Kevin,
         I think the best thing I can do is point you to some books:

         Machining Fundamentals John R. Walker (Hardcover, 1982)

         22nd Edtion Machinery's Handbook 1984

         Both can Found on Ebay or Half.ebay.com

These will help you al ot.

Jerry

Show quoted text

At 03:28 PM 6/25/2003, you wrote:
Hi everyone,

I have a stupid question.  I received my 7x12 mini lathe a couple
weeks ago, I ordered my cutting blades from harbor freight and they
came in today.  Guess I was so excited about ordering my hhs cutting
bits that I realy didn't read the sales advertisement that well.  I
thought I would get the same size cutting bits (got the 5 pc set)
I knew i was getting a cut off bit but i thought the other 4 bits
were 1/4" bits.

This is what I got:  1ea) 1/2 x 1/16 x 4 1/2
                     1ea) 1/8 x 2 1/2
                     1ea) 3/16 x 2 1/2
                     1ea) 1/4 x 2 1/2
                     1ea) 1/4 x 2 1/2 ( round bit )

So I guess what my question is what is the 1/4" round bit used for?

What is the small 1/8" bit used for, some small delicate work?

Thank you for your help in answering these question.

Kelvin



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stupid question from a beginner

lecompte126

#559

Hi everyone,

I have a stupid question.  I received my 7x12 mini lathe a couple 
weeks ago, I ordered my cutting blades from harbor freight and they 
came in today.  Guess I was so excited about ordering my hhs cutting 
bits that I realy didn't read the sales advertisement that well.  I 
thought I would get the same size cutting bits (got the 5 pc set)
I knew i was getting a cut off bit but i thought the other 4 bits 
were 1/4" bits. 

This is what I got:  1ea) 1/2 x 1/16 x 4 1/2
                     1ea) 1/8 x 2 1/2  
                     1ea) 3/16 x 2 1/2 
                     1ea) 1/4 x 2 1/2
                     1ea) 1/4 x 2 1/2 ( round bit )

So I guess what my question is what is the 1/4" round bit used for?

What is the small 1/8" bit used for, some small delicate work?

Thank you for your help in answering these question.

Kelvin

Re: newbie

jagco1998

#579

Well, If being able to get parts real easy is your main concern...Id 
go with the Homier 7x12.
Having dealt with both companies in CS issues, Id have to say that 
Homier was a little quicker to send them out to me.
Besides, LMS has everything that you would need in parts for either 
one of the lathes, and they ship em' out to ya , usually in the same 
day that the order was placed.
At $299, the Homier 7x12 was my choice, seeing how its less of a 
hassle to order parts from LMS, rather than wait on CS to send them 
out where I purchased the lathe from for replacemnt parts. The only 
thing that I found wrong with my lathe when I received it, was one of 
the 80T gears' keyway was stripped and received a new one from homier 
withing 3 days.
When I purchased my mini mill from Grizzly some time back it took 
almost 3 weeks to get a gear that I could have gotten from LMS in 
about 3 or 4 days tops.

For me it was a no brainer decision to make in which one to buy.

Show quoted text

Hi folks,

I am ready to purchase a 7x12 mini lathe and see a whoppin price 
difference between grizzly and homier. I know the grizzly comes with 
2 extra tools (steady rest and 6 1/4" faceplate). Are there any 
differences in the actual parts of the machines? are some parts more 
rugged on the grizzly (plasctic on homeier? vs. metal on grizzly?)

$299 sure sounds like a real good buy. I wanna get a little lathe and 
then build an upscaled gingery (with around 40" workspace between 
centers)

Choice is important to me since I live only half hour drive from 
grizzly tools and get get parts real easy.

-Hawk-

Help in determining screw pitch?

jagco1998

#581

I posted this over at 7x10 also, in hopes of reaching some extra 
experienced small shop machinists advice in the matter..

I have a collet set that needs a new collet closer and Id like to be 
able to determine what size thread to cut on my 7X12 when making a 
new one(its more than likely metric..its a chinese set...no specs on 
it anywhere to be found??Might be imperial DOUBT IT THOUGH)...I dont 
have a thread gage ATM, and was wondering if anyone knows of a way to 
figure it out without a thread gage and if you could expalin it to me 
please?

If it helps any...its the quick change MT3 set that micromark and 
littlemachineshop, ect. sells.

Thanks in advance

Re: newbie

#558

The Grizzly 7x12 and Homier 7x12 are the same lathe, made in the same 
factory - I have both. The Grizzly comes with a face plate and steady 
rest but these can be purchased separately from several vendors. The 
Grizzly is a great machine, but the Homier is a better deal. Since 
you live near Grizzly, that might make it a better choice for you.

For more information, see these links:






Frank Hoose


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "lifes_jeep" <swsmt@a...> wrote:
Hi folks,

I am ready to purchase a 7x12 mini lathe and see a whoppin price 
difference between grizzly and homier. I know the grizzly comes with 
2 extra tools (steady rest and 6 1/4" faceplate). Are there any 
differences in the actual parts of the machines? are some parts more 
rugged on the grizzly (plasctic on homeier? vs. metal on grizzly?)

$299 sure sounds like a real good buy. I wanna get a little lathe and 
then build an upscaled gingery (with around 40" workspace between 
centers)

Choice is important to me since I live only half hour drive from 
grizzly tools and get get parts real easy.

-Hawk-

Re: Delrin

Jerry Smith

#557

I haven't tried the new replacement for Freon. What I have done is used CO2 for my spray coolant for larger projects. It works well for my things. I have a 10 pound ( I think) and a 80 pounder in the hot shop. I use CO2 for carbon steel with MIG welding, so I do have it on hand.

Jerry

Show quoted text

At 06:03 PM 6/20/2003, you wrote:
I am a newbie to the group.  I know that many plastics
become brittle at (very) low temperatures.  Some of
them need to be treated with liquid nitrogen to make
them brittle.

One experiment someone can try is to keep the piece in
a freezer for a couple of hours and then try to
machine it.

Liquid nitrogen is dangerous in some ways (don't try
to dip your body parts in it - they will break off
too) but something else that can be sprayed to cool
the work piece (The newer Freon?) may do the job.
Don't know how it will affect the cutting tool though.

I don't have a lathe yet.  I joined the group to hang
around & read various discussions to get a feel of
what I should buy.  May be in a few months ...

Chip_User
----------------------------------------------
--- Richard Albers <rralbers@...> wrote:
Snipped

  We just live with it.  I don't think it is
possible to break such
a soft material into smaller chips.  It *may* be
possible to grab the
string with pliers and break it (or just hold it
away from the cut),
but I do not recommend this for most HSMs - it would
be too easy to
get into trouble.  Like watching the chip,and
forgetting to stop the
cut before the bit hits the chuck (lots of us have
done that :-o).Snipped

Re: Delrin

V Sathe

#555

I am a newbie to the group.  I know that many plastics
become brittle at (very) low temperatures.  Some of
them need to be treated with liquid nitrogen to make
them brittle.

One experiment someone can try is to keep the piece in
a freezer for a couple of hours and then try to
machine it.

Liquid nitrogen is dangerous in some ways (don't try
to dip your body parts in it - they will break off
too) but something else that can be sprayed to cool
the work piece (The newer Freon?) may do the job. 
Don't know how it will affect the cutting tool though.

I don't have a lathe yet.  I joined the group to hang
around & read various discussions to get a feel of
what I should buy.  May be in a few months ...

Chip_User
----------------------------------------------
--- Richard Albers <rralbers@...> wrote:
Snipped

  We just live with it.  I don't think it is
possible to break such
a soft material into smaller chips.  It *may* be
possible to grab the
string with pliers and break it (or just hold it
away from the cut),
but I do not recommend this for most HSMs - it would
be too easy to
get into trouble.  Like watching the chip,and
forgetting to stop the
cut before the bit hits the chuck (lots of us have
done that :-o).Snipped

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Re: question about the chuck

#554

IMHO, the proper method is to use the chuck key in a key hole.  
Any slight chance of distorting the chuck body is reduced by applying 
the force against the large pinion bearing surface instead of against 
the relatively skinny slots of the jaw-locating face.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Jim E." <jim0000@a...> wrote:
Proper method is what you're doing, minus the rag.  

                   Graciously,                
                       Jim
                   Lakewood, CA                  
              All Hail Rube Goldberg!

lecompte126 wrote:

Hi everyone,

I was cleaning the red grease off of my Homier Lathe today.  I tried
to remove the 3-jaw chuck, but could not keep the chuck from turning
to unscrew the 3 screws.  What I did is open up the chuck and wrap a
rag around a screw drive and put it in the jaws to keep it from
turning. well this worked for me, but i'm sure this is not the right
way to do it, I don't want to get into the habit of doing it this
way, if there is a chance of breaking the jaws.  So my question is
What is the proper way to remove a chuck from the lathe?

Thanks for you help.

Kelvin

Re: question about the chuck

Jim E.

#553

Proper method is what you're doing, minus the rag.  

                   Graciously,                
                       Jim
                   Lakewood, CA                  
              All Hail Rube Goldberg!

lecompte126 wrote:

Show quoted text

Hi everyone,

I was cleaning the red grease off of my Homier Lathe today.  I tried
to remove the 3-jaw chuck, but could not keep the chuck from turning
to unscrew the 3 screws.  What I did is open up the chuck and wrap a
rag around a screw drive and put it in the jaws to keep it from
turning. well this worked for me, but i'm sure this is not the right
way to do it, I don't want to get into the habit of doing it this
way, if there is a chance of breaking the jaws.  So my question is
What is the proper way to remove a chuck from the lathe?

Thanks for you help.

Kelvin

Re: question about the chuck

William A Williams

#552

Kelvin; if it (1) getting the screws out, (2) not hurting the lath, (3)
not hurting you then it is probably OK!

            Bill in Boulder         "Engineering as an Art Form!"

Re: question about the chuck

Ed Paradis

#551

Kelvin,  The normal method most folks use is to use either the chuck 
key itself, or what I made for mine.  I made a separate hand key for 
the various chucks that I use on mine.  In the Photos section, look 
under "Ed's stuff" and you'll see a photo of what I use.  The 
construction of them is pretty easy, using some square stock and file 
handles.  These help you to get a decent purchase on the chuck when 
tightening the nuts, plus make a handy tool for setting up your 
work.  Just size the square stock for the appropriate square hole on 
your particular chuck.  On both of them, the square stock is bedded 
about the same distance inside as what is showing on the outside.  I 
drilled a round hole slightly smaller than the square stock and then 
whackalated the thing together.  Works great...

Ed

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "lecompte126" 
<lecompte126@h...> wrote:
Hi everyone,

I was cleaning the red grease off of my Homier Lathe today.  I tried 
to remove the 3-jaw chuck, but could not keep the chuck from turning 
to unscrew the 3 screws.  What I did is open up the chuck and wrap a 
rag around a screw drive and put it in the jaws to keep it from 
turning. well this worked for me, but i'm sure this is not the right 
way to do it, I don't want to get into the habit of doing it this 
way, if there is a chance of breaking the jaws.  So my question is 
What is the proper way to remove a chuck from the lathe?

Thanks for you help.

Kelvin

Re: question about the chuck

#550

Put the chuck key in one of the holes; use it to keep the chuck 
from turning.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "lecompte126" 
<lecompte126@h...> wrote:
Hi everyone,

I was cleaning the red grease off of my Homier Lathe today.  I tried 
to remove the 3-jaw chuck, but could not keep the chuck from turning 
to unscrew the 3 screws.  What I did is open up the chuck and wrap a 
rag around a screw drive and put it in the jaws to keep it from 
turning. well this worked for me, but i'm sure this is not the right 
way to do it, I don't want to get into the habit of doing it this 
way, if there is a chance of breaking the jaws.  So my question is 
What is the proper way to remove a chuck from the lathe?

Thanks for you help.

Kelvin

Re: question about the chuck

Jerry Smith

#549

Kevil,
         First of all removing a chuck, do it carefully, there 3 or 4 
screws on the back of the chuck. What I did on my little lathe was put a 5 
inch chuck on it, I used the back plate that HF sells and mounted the 
chuck. Things got much easier to do and I do recommend doing this enhancement.

Here is the URL on how to do it and where to get stuff from:


Jerry

Show quoted text

At 07:15 PM 6/16/2003, you wrote:
Hi everyone,

I was cleaning the red grease off of my Homier Lathe today.  I tried
to remove the 3-jaw chuck, but could not keep the chuck from turning
to unscrew the 3 screws.  What I did is open up the chuck and wrap a
rag around a screw drive and put it in the jaws to keep it from
turning. well this worked for me, but i'm sure this is not the right
way to do it, I don't want to get into the habit of doing it this
way, if there is a chance of breaking the jaws.  So my question is
What is the proper way to remove a chuck from the lathe?

Thanks for you help.

Kelvin

question about the chuck

lecompte126

#548

Hi everyone,

I was cleaning the red grease off of my Homier Lathe today.  I tried 
to remove the 3-jaw chuck, but could not keep the chuck from turning 
to unscrew the 3 screws.  What I did is open up the chuck and wrap a 
rag around a screw drive and put it in the jaws to keep it from 
turning. well this worked for me, but i'm sure this is not the right 
way to do it, I don't want to get into the habit of doing it this 
way, if there is a chance of breaking the jaws.  So my question is 
What is the proper way to remove a chuck from the lathe?

Thanks for you help.

Kelvin

Re: newbie

H & M

#547

Thanks a bunch Ed, I am buying a Homier...

Show quoted text

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Ed Paradis 
  To: 7x12minilathe@... 
  Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2003 7:41 PM
  Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: newbie

  Greetings Mr. Hawk, if you don't already know, both machines are made 
  in the same factory by Sieg.  The main difference is with the 
  accessories that are included with the Grizzly.  The Grizzly includes 
  the faceplate, steady rest, follow rest (if I remember correctly), 
  which if purchased from HF, would not equal the price difference 
  between the Homier and the Grizzly.  I opted to get the Homier (total 
  was about $360 with shipping) and I used the difference to get the 
  other goodies from HF.  The parts are fully interchangeable on both 
  machines (actually all of the Sieg machines, such as the HF 7x10, 
  Enco 7x10, Northern Tool 7x10, Grizzly 7x12, etc.)  Homier is reputed 
  to have an excellent reputation with handling any of the warranty 
  issues, I can't speak to how Grizzly handles theirs....

  Ed
  "Expiring minds want to know..."

  --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "lifes_jeep" <swsmt@a...> wrote:
  > Hi folks,
  > 
  > I am ready to purchase a 7x12 mini lathe and see a whoppin price 
  > difference between grizzly and homier. I know the grizzly comes 
  with 
  > 2 extra tools (steady rest and 6 1/4" faceplate). Are there any 
  > differences in the actual parts of the machines? are some parts 
  more 
  > rugged on the grizzly (plasctic on homeier? vs. metal on grizzly?)
  > 
  > $299 sure sounds like a real good buy. I wanna get a little lathe 
  and 
  > then build an upscaled gingery (with around 40" workspace between 
  > centers)
  > 
  > Choice is important to me since I live only half hour drive from 
  > grizzly tools and get get parts real easy.
  > 
  > -Hawk-

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Re: Delrin

Richard Albers

#546

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ron DeBlock" <rdeblock@a...> 
wrote:
  <Snip>
The Delrin is wonderful material to machine, except for one annoyance: the
chip comes off as a single, long string.  It becomes a big, soft, fuzzy mess
that gets tangled up on the work, the tooling, the live center, the chuck,
etc.  It reminds me of poodle fur.  We had to stop often to clean off the
fuzz.  It's especially annoying when parting off.

Is there anyway to get the chip to break into pieces?  Or is it something we
have to live with?  We just live with it.  I don't think it is possible to break such
a soft material into smaller chips.  It *may* be possible to grab the
string with pliers and break it (or just hold it away from the cut),
but I do not recommend this for most HSMs - it would be too easy to
get into trouble.  Like watching the chip,and forgetting to stop the
cut before the bit hits the chuck (lots of us have done that :-o).

BTW, projects like this are a good way to justify the purchase of machine
tools - "But, dear, it's for the children!"  Sounds like that one should fly!

  RA

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