开云体育

Hi Frank,

I also turn speed to zero before using any other control. But I am
leery of a failure causing the chuck to move while I have a grip on
the key, unlikely as that may be. Note that when I inserted the
extra fuse and turned the power on with the speed control set to OFF
that the chuck went to full speed for a half second or so before the
fuse blew -- this is the type of thing I don't want to happen while
I've got a grip on the chuck or the work. Also, I sometimes use the
tailstock chuck to start taps and noted that the headstock chuck is
more difficult to turn if the power is applied even though the speed
control is set to zero -- the big red button fixes this too.

Like you, I turn the power completely off when I'm done using the
machine. This is good practice because otherwise the lathe's
electronics are exposed to line transients from passing T-storms,
etc. I wired my shop so all the wall outlets are on one wall switch
and the radio is a reminder that ensures I turn it off when leaving.
During the summer I will pull the plug as further transient
protection.

Some further news on the FET failure: I removed the shorted FET and
tried the unit with the single remaining FET in place -- it works
normally, at least for the short term. I assume it won't run too
long this way because the FET will over heat. I did add a number of
air holes to the case below the FET heat sink and will monitor the
temp while awaiting replacement parts.

As a guess about why some controllers last and others fail: if the
parallel FET's both conduct the same amount of current while ON then
the controller will last but if the FET's are grossly mismatched then
one will conduct the bulk of the current and eventually fail -- the
time to failure will depend on the degree of mismatch. The
replacement IRFP460 FET's have a lower ON resistance than the
original 2SK790's so they should dissipate less heat under all
circumstances (including mismatched device characteristics).
Probably, the 460 FET's would survive if used singly although I will
install two to ensure long term viability.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Frank Hoose <fhoose@y...> wrote:

I don't know for sure if it makes a difference, but I
always turn the speed down to zero before switching
direction or turning off the lathe. I have not had a
FET failure in over 2 years following this procedure
and I use my lathe about 10 hours per week or more. I
never use the big red button since I power off the
lathe from a power strip it is plugged into when I'm
done working with it.

Frank Hoose



--- John <moran03@e...> wrote:

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately I have already
ordered the
IRFP460 replacement FET's from an electronics
supplier -- they have a
minimum $ order so I'll wind up with a LOT of
transistors and fuses
(in case anyone else runs into the same problem,
contact me for a
good deal on these items...).

Homier is sending a replacement board but it may
take up to 2 weeks
so I'll probably try to repair the present board in
the interim.

I found a schematic for the Grizzly 7x12 in the 7x10
group photos
section in a folder titled ESC. This confirmed what
I had determined
from looking at the ckt board: the output FET's are
in parallel but
they do not use source resistors to ensure equal
current sharing. My
theory on why my unit failed is that this particular
board has 2SK790
FET's from different manufacturers; I suspect that
the device
characteristics were sufficiently different that
they didn't share
the current equally causing the device which took
the bulk of the
current to eventually fail. Others who experience a
similar failure
might check to see whether both devices have the
same manufacturer's
logo as a check on my supposition.

Also, I had gotten into the habit of putting the
fwd/rev switch into
the center=off position when fiddling with the
chuck, this to ensure
that the chuck wouldn't move in the unlikely event
of a failure
occurring while my hands were in harm's way. I can't
decide whether
this may have contributed to the failure. Based on
examining the
schematic I will in the future use the big red
button instead of the
fwd/rev switch to ensure the chuck can't move --
don't know whether
this will help but it certainly won't hurt.

Further, I intend to add some holes in the case
below the heat sink
and to add a spacer to ensure the clear plastic
shield is held away
from the heat sink so air can circulate past the
sink. These holes
will also help any metal chips which wander into the
electronics
enclosure find their way back out. Again, this may
not help but it
won't hurt.

Having had my favorite toy disabled by an
electronics failure I'm
trying to avoid a repetition.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Chris Wood
<chrisw@s...> wrote:

John:

It sounds like the MOSFETs have blown. We have

replacements that
are higher

capacity.

ProductID=1221

Regards,
Chris Wood
LittleMachineShop.com <www.littlemachineshop.com>
The premier source of parts and accessories for

mini lathes and
mini mills.

221 E. Walnut St. #110, Pasadena, CA 91101
(800)981-9663 * Fax (626)584-5844



-----Original Message-----
From: John [mailto:moran03@e...]
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 8:32 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] 7x12 Blows Fuses ?


My 7x12 which is now 2.5 months old popped its

fuse shortly after

startup Friday, just as I was beginning a parting

cut at low
speed.

I installed the replacement fuse and , with the

speed control in
the

OFF position and the tool backed away, the lathe

started as if it
was

at full speed and the fuse popped again in less

than a second.

This is a relatively new unit so I called Homier

and they promised
to

call me back on Monday. I'm just wondering if

this is a common

problem; my understanding is the Homiers use an

SCR based
controller

which is less prone to failure than the MOSFET

types. My ckt board

has a sticker with FC250J/110V and the large power

devices are

identified as K790 -- the board uses surface mount

devices except

for power handling which are thru-hole. Anybody

have more info on

the Homier controller?

Up until this happened I was very happy with the

controller since
it

allowed speed to be reduced to 12rpm, slower than

most references
in

the 7x10 group specify. I did notice that when

the speed control
was

in the OFF position that rotating the knob

slightly(as alowed while

OFF) made the chuck would move slightly and groan

a bit. Since it

seems to be live even while OFF I always turn the

wall outlet off

after use.

John



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your

desktop!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:
<Big Snip>

Further, I intend to add some holes in the case below the heat sink
and to add a spacer to ensure the clear plastic shield is held away
from the heat sink so air can circulate past the sink. These holes
will also help any metal chips which wander into the electronics
enclosure find their way back out. Again, this may not help but it
won't hurt.

I think those holes would just let more chips IN. I don't have any
extra holes in there (on my Grizzly 7x12) and have never had a FET
fail.

Since you will have extra FETs, try it without the holes, first.

Just my opinion...

RA

I don't know for sure if it makes a difference, but I
always turn the speed down to zero before switching
direction or turning off the lathe. I have not had a
FET failure in over 2 years following this procedure
and I use my lathe about 10 hours per week or more. I
never use the big red button since I power off the
lathe from a power strip it is plugged into when I'm
done working with it.

Frank Hoose



--- John <moran03@...> wrote:

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately I have already
ordered the
IRFP460 replacement FET's from an electronics
supplier -- they have a
minimum $ order so I'll wind up with a LOT of
transistors and fuses
(in case anyone else runs into the same problem,
contact me for a
good deal on these items...).

Homier is sending a replacement board but it may
take up to 2 weeks
so I'll probably try to repair the present board in
the interim.

I found a schematic for the Grizzly 7x12 in the 7x10
group photos
section in a folder titled ESC. This confirmed what
I had determined
from looking at the ckt board: the output FET's are
in parallel but
they do not use source resistors to ensure equal
current sharing. My
theory on why my unit failed is that this particular
board has 2SK790
FET's from different manufacturers; I suspect that
the device
characteristics were sufficiently different that
they didn't share
the current equally causing the device which took
the bulk of the
current to eventually fail. Others who experience a
similar failure
might check to see whether both devices have the
same manufacturer's
logo as a check on my supposition.

Also, I had gotten into the habit of putting the
fwd/rev switch into
the center=off position when fiddling with the
chuck, this to ensure
that the chuck wouldn't move in the unlikely event
of a failure
occurring while my hands were in harm's way. I can't
decide whether
this may have contributed to the failure. Based on
examining the
schematic I will in the future use the big red
button instead of the
fwd/rev switch to ensure the chuck can't move --
don't know whether
this will help but it certainly won't hurt.

Further, I intend to add some holes in the case
below the heat sink
and to add a spacer to ensure the clear plastic
shield is held away
from the heat sink so air can circulate past the
sink. These holes
will also help any metal chips which wander into the
electronics
enclosure find their way back out. Again, this may
not help but it
won't hurt.

Having had my favorite toy disabled by an
electronics failure I'm
trying to avoid a repetition.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Chris Wood
<chrisw@s...> wrote:

John:

It sounds like the MOSFETs have blown. We have

replacements that
are higher

capacity.

ProductID=1221

Regards,
Chris Wood
LittleMachineShop.com <www.littlemachineshop.com>
The premier source of parts and accessories for

mini lathes and
mini mills.

221 E. Walnut St. #110, Pasadena, CA 91101
(800)981-9663 * Fax (626)584-5844



-----Original Message-----
From: John [mailto:moran03@e...]
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 8:32 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] 7x12 Blows Fuses ?


My 7x12 which is now 2.5 months old popped its

fuse shortly after

startup Friday, just as I was beginning a parting

cut at low
speed.

I installed the replacement fuse and , with the

speed control in
the

OFF position and the tool backed away, the lathe

started as if it
was

at full speed and the fuse popped again in less

than a second.

This is a relatively new unit so I called Homier

and they promised
to

call me back on Monday. I'm just wondering if

this is a common

problem; my understanding is the Homiers use an

SCR based
controller

which is less prone to failure than the MOSFET

types. My ckt board

has a sticker with FC250J/110V and the large power

devices are

identified as K790 -- the board uses surface mount

devices except

for power handling which are thru-hole. Anybody

have more info on

the Homier controller?

Up until this happened I was very happy with the

controller since
it

allowed speed to be reduced to 12rpm, slower than

most references
in

the 7x10 group specify. I did notice that when

the speed control
was

in the OFF position that rotating the knob

slightly(as alowed while

OFF) made the chuck would move slightly and groan

a bit. Since it

seems to be live even while OFF I always turn the

wall outlet off

after use.

John



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!

Wednesday I was in Chehalis, WA to have lunch date with a woman I met at a
dance. I told her HOMIER was having a sale there and she was pleased to go
with me before we had lunch.

We got there about 12:30 and they were still sticking stuff on the shelves.
Our first pass through I saw a 7x12 lathe out of it's box. A little later we

went by again and they had one in the box, I asked a worker if they'd help me
get it
in my truck, he said yes so I bought it for $299.99. Somebody put it in my
truck, I blue tarped it and secured it and off to lunch. Later I cuddled
with her leaving only when she had to get ready to have dinner with friends,
as I told her, she is a very attractive lady for a guy with a new lathe to
prefer to be with her
than getting lathe home to clean and set up.

I got home, pushed crap around on my workbench and managed to egt it up
and then mounted feet and chip tray. Not much grease on it and that was red
rather than the usual black gunky grease I have seen or worse the cosmoline
found on surplus military rifles. I was careful to put all the paper towel
grease wipers in outside garbage. I haven't turned it on yet, may be a few
days.

Seems a little silly to buy it since I already have a Unimat (originally
bought in 1968) and an Enco 9x20 bought 13-14 years ago, But I wanted it.
The only thing about buying it today was I had the pleasure today and I saved
the $70
or more UPS charges and instead paid $25 sales tax. I had WLS nearly six
months ago, had Lasiks eye surgery 12 days ago. I am starting community
college after 35 years away from school, I don't need this lathe but i want
it. I am already manufacturing rationales for it, one is my youngest brother
is gaving me his 1980 Vanagon, now I have a lathe that will fit in it.

I'll likely start out using drill chuck from the 9x20 and adapting things as
I can.
Who currently has best price on faceplates, 4-jaw chucks, #2MT drill chuck
arbors?


"Have lathe will travel" is the card of a man....

Anyway, I have a 7x 12 and am pleased.

Larry Murray

Hi,

On the subject of storing a bench lathe, has anyone come up with a
novel way of having a lathe bench and hauling crate combined. I am
thinking of perhaps combining the two features so one can use the
bottom of the crate for a lathe bench. Also combining features to
make it easier to haul up a set of steps by the single user/mover
would be really neat too.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Too_many_Tools

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately I have already ordered the
IRFP460 replacement FET's from an electronics supplier -- they have a
minimum $ order so I'll wind up with a LOT of transistors and fuses
(in case anyone else runs into the same problem, contact me for a
good deal on these items...).

Homier is sending a replacement board but it may take up to 2 weeks
so I'll probably try to repair the present board in the interim.

I found a schematic for the Grizzly 7x12 in the 7x10 group photos
section in a folder titled ESC. This confirmed what I had determined
from looking at the ckt board: the output FET's are in parallel but
they do not use source resistors to ensure equal current sharing. My
theory on why my unit failed is that this particular board has 2SK790
FET's from different manufacturers; I suspect that the device
characteristics were sufficiently different that they didn't share
the current equally causing the device which took the bulk of the
current to eventually fail. Others who experience a similar failure
might check to see whether both devices have the same manufacturer's
logo as a check on my supposition.

Also, I had gotten into the habit of putting the fwd/rev switch into
the center=off position when fiddling with the chuck, this to ensure
that the chuck wouldn't move in the unlikely event of a failure
occurring while my hands were in harm's way. I can't decide whether
this may have contributed to the failure. Based on examining the
schematic I will in the future use the big red button instead of the
fwd/rev switch to ensure the chuck can't move -- don't know whether
this will help but it certainly won't hurt.

Further, I intend to add some holes in the case below the heat sink
and to add a spacer to ensure the clear plastic shield is held away
from the heat sink so air can circulate past the sink. These holes
will also help any metal chips which wander into the electronics
enclosure find their way back out. Again, this may not help but it
won't hurt.

Having had my favorite toy disabled by an electronics failure I'm
trying to avoid a repetition.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Chris Wood <chrisw@s...> wrote:

John:

It sounds like the MOSFETs have blown. We have replacements that

are higher

capacity.

ProductID=1221

Regards,
Chris Wood
LittleMachineShop.com <www.littlemachineshop.com>
The premier source of parts and accessories for mini lathes and

mini mills.

221 E. Walnut St. #110, Pasadena, CA 91101
(800)981-9663 * Fax (626)584-5844



-----Original Message-----
From: John [mailto:moran03@e...]
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 8:32 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] 7x12 Blows Fuses ?


My 7x12 which is now 2.5 months old popped its fuse shortly after
startup Friday, just as I was beginning a parting cut at low

speed.

I installed the replacement fuse and , with the speed control in

the

OFF position and the tool backed away, the lathe started as if it

was

at full speed and the fuse popped again in less than a second.

This is a relatively new unit so I called Homier and they promised

to

call me back on Monday. I'm just wondering if this is a common
problem; my understanding is the Homiers use an SCR based

controller

which is less prone to failure than the MOSFET types. My ckt board
has a sticker with FC250J/110V and the large power devices are
identified as K790 -- the board uses surface mount devices except
for power handling which are thru-hole. Anybody have more info on
the Homier controller?

Up until this happened I was very happy with the controller since

it

allowed speed to be reduced to 12rpm, slower than most references

in

the 7x10 group specify. I did notice that when the speed control

was

in the OFF position that rotating the knob slightly(as alowed while
OFF) made the chuck would move slightly and groan a bit. Since it
seems to be live even while OFF I always turn the wall outlet off
after use.

John



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

Yes. Zietlowdesign.com should do the trick.

Lee



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "bbftx" <bflint@a...> wrote:

Lee
Do you have a web address for Zietlow?
I couldn't find it with a Google search.
Thanks
B Flint

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "trainman80005"
<Trainman4@h...> wrote:

Hi:

I have just completed the installation of a digital readout on my
Grizzly 7 X 12 and could not be happier. I purchased the DRO

from

Zietlow Design off of the internet and got the Quill Kits for the
machine off of Ebay. On the Zietlow website there are complete
instructions on how to make the mounts required for the

installation

and how to set everything up. It is really nice to now be able

to

know exactly where your cutter is located on the x and y axis and

not

have to make a guess by reading the dials and worring about
backlash. The entire project was completed for less than

$250.00.

I

am placing some pictures in the photo section of the installation.

Lee Brown

Yes. Zietlowdesign.com should do the trick.

Lee



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "bbftx" <bflint@a...> wrote:

Lee
Do you have a web address for Zietlow?
I couldn't find it with a Google search.
Thanks
B Flint

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "trainman80005"
<Trainman4@h...> wrote:

Hi:

I have just completed the installation of a digital readout on my
Grizzly 7 X 12 and could not be happier. I purchased the DRO

from

Zietlow Design off of the internet and got the Quill Kits for the
machine off of Ebay. On the Zietlow website there are complete
instructions on how to make the mounts required for the

installation

and how to set everything up. It is really nice to now be able

to

know exactly where your cutter is located on the x and y axis and

not

have to make a guess by reading the dials and worring about
backlash. The entire project was completed for less than

$250.00.

I

am placing some pictures in the photo section of the installation.

Lee Brown

John:

It sounds like the MOSFETs have blown. We have replacements that are higher
capacity.


Regards,
Chris Wood
LittleMachineShop.com <www.littlemachineshop.com>
The premier source of parts and accessories for mini lathes and mini mills.
221 E. Walnut St. #110, Pasadena, CA 91101
(800)981-9663 * Fax (626)584-5844

Check this address, it may be what you want:






--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "bbftx" <bflint@a...> wrote:

Lee
Do you have a web address for Zietlow?
I couldn't find it with a Google search.
Thanks
B Flint

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "trainman80005"
<Trainman4@h...> wrote:

Hi:

I have just completed the installation of a digital readout on my
Grizzly 7 X 12 and could not be happier. I purchased the DRO

from

Zietlow Design off of the internet and got the Quill Kits for the
machine off of Ebay. On the Zietlow website there are complete
instructions on how to make the mounts required for the

installation

and how to set everything up. It is really nice to now be able

to

know exactly where your cutter is located on the x and y axis and

not

have to make a guess by reading the dials and worring about
backlash. The entire project was completed for less than

$250.00.

I

am placing some pictures in the photo section of the installation.

Lee Brown

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the info on the FET -- I didn't know what it was for sure.
I understand that there is a more rugged FET which can be used for a
replacement so I'll talk to Homier about that when they call.

Like you, I found the controller worked nicely (until it failed).
I've stalled it several times at low speeds (parting mostly) and it
just hums -- I quickly turn it off with the pot and release the tool.

Since my lathe is inactive anyway I'm taking advantage of the down
time to fiddle with some of the suggested mods. I've lapped the
gibs/dovetails on the cross and compound slides and they seem a bit
smoother now although they were not bad to begin with. Now I'm
trying to adjust the backlash out of the cross slide without causing
binding, which isn't as easy as I expected...

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mike Nash"
<mnfwd2.minilathe@m...> wrote:

It sounds like you have the newer (Sieg made) Homier with a mosfet

type

controller. I have the older Homier with the SCR controller and

these would

fail to zero speed with blown fuses.

Yep, it's a mosfet controller:
Description:
2SK 790
N-FET/500V/15A/150W

I find these failures strange. My Homier mini mill uses a mosfet

drive and

(so far) it has simply "tripped" when overloaded. Turning the speed

pot to

zero (click) and back on resets it.

Mike Nash



----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <moran03@e...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 10:32 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] 7x12 Blows Fuses ?

My 7x12 which is now 2.5 months old popped its fuse shortly after
startup Friday, just as I was beginning a parting cut at low

speed.

I installed the replacement fuse and , with the speed control in

the

OFF position and the tool backed away, the lathe started as if it

was

at full speed and the fuse popped again in less than a second.

This is a relatively new unit so I called Homier and they

promised to

call me back on Monday. I'm just wondering if this is a common
problem; my understanding is the Homiers use an SCR based

controller

which is less prone to failure than the MOSFET types. My ckt board
has a sticker with FC250J/110V and the large power devices are
identified as K790 -- the board uses surface mount devices except
for power handling which are thru-hole. Anybody have more info

on

the Homier controller?

Up until this happened I was very happy with the controller since

it

allowed speed to be reduced to 12rpm, slower than most references

in

the 7x10 group specify. I did notice that when the speed control

was

in the OFF position that rotating the knob slightly(as alowed

while

OFF) made the chuck would move slightly and groan a bit. Since it
seems to be live even while OFF I always turn the wall outlet off
after use.

John



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

Lee
Do you have a web address for Zietlow?
I couldn't find it with a Google search.
Thanks
B Flint

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "trainman80005"
<Trainman4@h...> wrote:

Hi:

I have just completed the installation of a digital readout on my
Grizzly 7 X 12 and could not be happier. I purchased the DRO from
Zietlow Design off of the internet and got the Quill Kits for the
machine off of Ebay. On the Zietlow website there are complete
instructions on how to make the mounts required for the

installation

and how to set everything up. It is really nice to now be able to
know exactly where your cutter is located on the x and y axis and

not

have to make a guess by reading the dials and worring about
backlash. The entire project was completed for less than $250.00.

I

am placing some pictures in the photo section of the installation.

Lee Brown

What other machines do you have Bill?
I have a Burke #4 mill to go with my Homier 7x12.
One of the most impactful changes I made to my lathe to overcome
the "crudities," as you put it so well, was to install a real
toolholder. I went with the Series 100 Phase II QCTP, after making
the JWE compound mods. This dramatically reduced chatter and
improved rigidity. I don't find myself fiddling with those gib
adjustment set screws all the time now. (That never seemed to
accomplish much!)
Next thing I want to do is make some tapered saddle gibs.
B Flint

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "bwmsbldr" <BWMSBLDR@J...>
wrote:

I moved to this list from a similar one that suffered from an
excess of Off Topic posts. I am hoping to participate in a list

that

is focused on the small chinese hobby lath. I have been machining
as a hobby since starting in HS in 1953 and own a selection of

machine

tools. Bought my HF 7x10 at a garage sale for $100 last year. I

have

added a number of accessories from HF lacking only a four jaw

chuck.

the current effort is to eliminate the play and adjustment

crudities

in the machine and repair it up to optimum condition. Fortunatly
having other machines will ease that project.

Bill Williams (Bill in

Boulder)

Tom,
I looked at your photos. Nice work. I think you made the right
move going with 4 screws to hold the tools. I like the height
adjustment arrangement you used too.
Are those titanium coated carbide inserts in your pictures? I
recently got some and have been experimenting with them, but
haven't found the right combination of speed and depth of cut
to make them work well. What are you doing on steel and aluminum?
B Flint



-- In 7x12minilathe@..., "tomdoyle123456789"
<tdoyle@m...> wrote:

I recently completed the Cam Action QCTP project described on
mini-lathe.com. It works very well and I am very happy with it.
I made a few changes you might want to consider if you decide to
build it. I added a parting tool holder and changed the way the
height adjusting screw is tensioned. The height adjusting screw
tensioning described on mini-lathe.com would not work with the
parting tool so I used a more traditional method on all the tool
holders including the parting tool. Used a 3/4" 10-34 set screw
threaded 1/4" into the tool holder.
A knurled 3/16" thick adjusting screw is made from 1/2" brass rod.
A split washer and 10/32 nut hold the adjusting screw in place.

I used 4 screws to hold the tools in place rather than two.
Made the cam shaft from 1/2" drill rod which allowed the use of
1/4" rod for the handle. I posted some fairly nice photos in the
photos section. The close up photo of the parting tool (look at
it in full size) should tell the story If anyone needs more info
on the parting tool holder let me know.

tom ...

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Boris Tolkachev
<btolkachev@y...> wrote:

My name is Boris, I live in Jersey City, NJ.

]

Have you tried vo tech schools or community colleges in your area.
Maybe even some high schools offer night courses and will allow use
of their machines.

It sounds like you have the newer (Sieg made) Homier with a mosfet type
controller. I have the older Homier with the SCR controller and these would
fail to zero speed with blown fuses.

Yep, it's a mosfet controller:
Description:
2SK 790
N-FET/500V/15A/150W

I find these failures strange. My Homier mini mill uses a mosfet drive and
(so far) it has simply "tripped" when overloaded. Turning the speed pot to
zero (click) and back on resets it.

Mike Nash

My 7x12 which is now 2.5 months old popped its fuse shortly after
startup Friday, just as I was beginning a parting cut at low speed.
I installed the replacement fuse and , with the speed control in the
OFF position and the tool backed away, the lathe started as if it was
at full speed and the fuse popped again in less than a second.

This is a relatively new unit so I called Homier and they promised to
call me back on Monday. I'm just wondering if this is a common
problem; my understanding is the Homiers use an SCR based controller
which is less prone to failure than the MOSFET types. My ckt board
has a sticker with FC250J/110V and the large power devices are
identified as K790 -- the board uses surface mount devices except
for power handling which are thru-hole. Anybody have more info on
the Homier controller?

Up until this happened I was very happy with the controller since it
allowed speed to be reduced to 12rpm, slower than most references in
the 7x10 group specify. I did notice that when the speed control was
in the OFF position that rotating the knob slightly(as alowed while
OFF) made the chuck would move slightly and groan a bit. Since it
seems to be live even while OFF I always turn the wall outlet off
after use.

John

I have made a couple of small modifications to improve my 7 x12.
Using a small piece of hyfax plastic from the junk box I made a flag
for the tail stock so that I could mount a dial indicator and measure
the depth of a hole I am boring. (photo in photo section) The dial
indicator is a cheapy from Harbor Freight mounted on a magnet using a
small piece of 3/4" aluminum angle.

I have also added some short legs to boost the height of the lathe.
My lathe sits on a counter height bench and placed it at the wrong
height for me so I made short legs from 1 1/2" Aluminum to raise the
lathe. Much better. (photo in photo section)

Lee Brown

Hi:

I have just completed the installation of a digital readout on my
Grizzly 7 X 12 and could not be happier. I purchased the DRO from
Zietlow Design off of the internet and got the Quill Kits for the
machine off of Ebay. On the Zietlow website there are complete
instructions on how to make the mounts required for the installation
and how to set everything up. It is really nice to now be able to
know exactly where your cutter is located on the x and y axis and not
have to make a guess by reading the dials and worring about
backlash. The entire project was completed for less than $250.00. I
am placing some pictures in the photo section of the installation.

Lee Brown

For those not on the 7x10minilathe group: