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A little feed slop is necessary for the feed screw to not bind.
The standard way to deal with it is to always back out farther than
necessary, then advance to the desired position - the slop is
eliminated during the excess advance travel.
Sounds like you may have adjusted the gibs to a slight taper. The
adjusment goes quicker if you loosen the 2 outer screws and set the
middle one for comfortable movement near the center of travel. Next,
adjust one of the outer screws for comfortable movement with the
cross slide over it; then do the other screw. If you can't get
uniform comfortable movement, it's possible that one of the dovetail
surface is slightly out of parallel, lapping will fix it.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "bt99ss <Thvin@a...>"
<Thvin@a...> wrote:

Hello everybody,
I'm another lucky person who got a mini-lathe for Christmas and I'm
having a great time with it. I'm new to metal turning but I've

been

to both Mini-Lathe.Com and The Little Machine Shop sites and would
like to thank both for the info. I've been "dailing" the machine

in

acording to book and the other info, but have a question. The
compound feed has about .004 slop in the in and out feed. Is there

a

way to adjust, or shim this out? My second question is while
adjusting the cross slide feed (three allens) I'm able to take all
the slop out when is all the way out, but when I move it "in" it
picks up some (about .002) slop. I've played around with the

allens,

but when I move the cross slide back out it gets really tight.

I've

only adjusted (not lapped the jibs). Does anybody have any
suggestions?
Thanks for the help.
Tom Vincent

What I did when I got mine was take apart everthing that had to dow
tih the crossslide, got some fine grit sandpaper cleaned up
everything, get any junk outta there,lapping the gibs does help alot,
so I reccommend that, I am pretyt happy with mine, although I
personally wouldn't trust this thing to cut a thread without some
SERIOUS tweaking, cause I tried cutting threads numerous ties and
have failed, I am a machinist so its not like I don't know what I am
doing to...

good luck!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "bt99ss <Thvin@a...>"
<Thvin@a...> wrote:

Hello everybody,
I'm another lucky person who got a mini-lathe for Christmas and I'm
having a great time with it. I'm new to metal turning but I've

been

to both Mini-Lathe.Com and The Little Machine Shop sites and would
like to thank both for the info. I've been "dailing" the machine

in

acording to book and the other info, but have a question. The
compound feed has about .004 slop in the in and out feed. Is there

a

way to adjust, or shim this out? My second question is while
adjusting the cross slide feed (three allens) I'm able to take all
the slop out when is all the way out, but when I move it "in" it
picks up some (about .002) slop. I've played around with the

allens,

but when I move the cross slide back out it gets really tight.

I've

only adjusted (not lapped the jibs). Does anybody have any
suggestions?
Thanks for the help.
Tom Vincent

Hello everybody,
I'm another lucky person who got a mini-lathe for Christmas and I'm
having a great time with it. I'm new to metal turning but I've been
to both Mini-Lathe.Com and The Little Machine Shop sites and would
like to thank both for the info. I've been "dailing" the machine in
acording to book and the other info, but have a question. The
compound feed has about .004 slop in the in and out feed. Is there a
way to adjust, or shim this out? My second question is while
adjusting the cross slide feed (three allens) I'm able to take all
the slop out when is all the way out, but when I move it "in" it
picks up some (about .002) slop. I've played around with the allens,
but when I move the cross slide back out it gets really tight. I've
only adjusted (not lapped the jibs). Does anybody have any
suggestions?
Thanks for the help.
Tom Vincent

Never mind ya'll, I answered my own question. I kept messing with it
until it done what I wanted.
Thanks, Matt, kf4zgz

Hi all!, I'm new to lathes and new to the list. My name is Matt and I
live in NC.I whined about wanting a lathe until my wife bought one
for a christmas present when Homier came to town.
I now am the happy owner of a Speedway Series 03911 7x12 :-)
I had a ball doing all the cleaning and wiping the first day, and
just had to turn sumthin'...I rounded the hex head of a bolt.:-)
Now for the question....When changing gears for cutting threads, is
the "A" gear the one riding inside the metal bracket on top?-the book
wasn't real clear on this.

Thanks again..Matt,kf4zgz

Hi! I've just joined the group (' just got my 7x12 as a birthday
present), and I am looking for comments on the Harbor Freight quick
change tool post sets such as SKU 35140 and 45439. At $80, they seem
like a good deal...

Thanks,
Danny

Welcome, Neil. Here's a good place to start:



Frank Hoose


--- Neil <cobra_neil@...> wrote:

Hi,

Just joined the list, and introducing myself. I'm
an electronics hobbyist
that's looking into making a product that will need
small enclosures and so
far I'm looking into buying the tools and doing this
myself. One option is
to turn and thread alum rod/tube and hence I found
this list. I know next
to nothing about metal machining, so the actual
processes are undecided, and
hence so are the tools. Looking forward to learning
a bunch.

Cheers,
-Neil.




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removed]



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Hi,

Just joined the list, and introducing myself. I'm an electronics hobbyist
that's looking into making a product that will need small enclosures and so
far I'm looking into buying the tools and doing this myself. One option is
to turn and thread alum rod/tube and hence I found this list. I know next
to nothing about metal machining, so the actual processes are undecided, and
hence so are the tools. Looking forward to learning a bunch.

Cheers,
-Neil.

It's known as "spherical turning," although, you're more
interested in radius turning. The two basic approaches are to
generate the radius with some type of pivoting toolholder or to trace
an existing radius with some type of sliding toolholder. Here are
some methods:




(scroll down to the profile attachment section)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "evill914 <evill914@c...>"
<evill914@c...> wrote:

I'm a beginer with my lathe. I have been practicing facing, turning
and boring with good results.

My question is, how do you create a cure on a work piece. I want to
make dies for an air planishing hammer. The radius would be cut on

the

face side. That is, instead of creating a flat face, which I can now
do, how do I create a small dome on the end. I want to create domes
that are almost flat to moderately curved.

Any tips and advice are greatly appreciated.

thanks,
Ed

I'm a beginer with my lathe. I have been practicing facing, turning
and boring with good results.

My question is, how do you create a cure on a work piece. I want to
make dies for an air planishing hammer. The radius would be cut on the
face side. That is, instead of creating a flat face, which I can now
do, how do I create a small dome on the end. I want to create domes
that are almost flat to moderately curved.

Any tips and advice are greatly appreciated.

thanks,
Ed

I didn't know the RHD name for them, or if they were readily
available (read, "cheap") in the UK.
As usual, the snipes save the day :-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby
<captkenn@m...>" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi JimE & Roy et al,
I tried the method of reverse clamping on the chuck suggested by

JimE

but it didn't work for me.

However, would you believe it Roy, I have three different sizes of
exhaust expanders in my garage workshop - including one of 1 and

5/8"

to 2 and 1/4" from my Race Car building days. I guess I am not
thinking laterally enough for the mini-lathe yet - which must mark

me

out still as a "Decky" (:o)

HAPPY NEW YEAR from dark and wet Northumberland
Regards
Ken

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal
<roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

For a low-budget expanding mandrel, an automotive "tailpipe
expander" can be held in a chuck. They're not as accurate as
a "real" expanding mandrel, but, can be fiddled into position for
trueing the ends of tubing.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby
<captkenn@m...>" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi,
I have come across a problem. What is the best way to put a 2"x

8"

Brass tube in the mini-lathe. I find that using neither the 4-

Jaw

nor

the 3-Jaw allows it to grip sufficiently. It seems to be a sort
of 'Blind Spot'.

I want to machine both ends but to make a mandrel that size

seems

a

bit OTT.

Any ideas?
Regards
Ken

Hi JimE & Roy et al,
I tried the method of reverse clamping on the chuck suggested by JimE
but it didn't work for me.

However, would you believe it Roy, I have three different sizes of
exhaust expanders in my garage workshop - including one of 1 and 5/8"
to 2 and 1/4" from my Race Car building days. I guess I am not
thinking laterally enough for the mini-lathe yet - which must mark me
out still as a "Decky" (:o)

HAPPY NEW YEAR from dark and wet Northumberland
Regards
Ken

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal
<roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

For a low-budget expanding mandrel, an automotive "tailpipe
expander" can be held in a chuck. They're not as accurate as
a "real" expanding mandrel, but, can be fiddled into position for
trueing the ends of tubing.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby
<captkenn@m...>" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi,
I have come across a problem. What is the best way to put a 2"x

8"

Brass tube in the mini-lathe. I find that using neither the 4-Jaw

nor

the 3-Jaw allows it to grip sufficiently. It seems to be a sort
of 'Blind Spot'.

I want to machine both ends but to make a mandrel that size seems

a

bit OTT.

Any ideas?
Regards
Ken

For a low-budget expanding mandrel, an automotive "tailpipe
expander" can be held in a chuck. They're not as accurate as
a "real" expanding mandrel, but, can be fiddled into position for
trueing the ends of tubing.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby
<captkenn@m...>" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi,
I have come across a problem. What is the best way to put a 2"x 8"
Brass tube in the mini-lathe. I find that using neither the 4-Jaw

nor

the 3-Jaw allows it to grip sufficiently. It seems to be a sort
of 'Blind Spot'.

I want to machine both ends but to make a mandrel that size seems a
bit OTT.

Any ideas?
Regards
Ken

Hi Mike,
Mmmm I hadn't thought of wood! That makes good sense I will give it a try
tomorrow

Regards
Ken
/ /
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触&濒迟;触):辞)=触&驳迟;抖抖触..触.................
&#92; &#92;'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''||
&#92; &#92;

From: "walsh2002bc <me.walsh@...>" <me.walsh@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Chucking medium diameter tube in Mini lathe
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 22:02:30 -0000

_________________________________________________________________
The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 3 months FREE*.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby
<captkenn@m...>" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi,
I have come across a problem. What is the best way to put a 2"x 8"
Brass tube in the mini-lathe. I find that using neither the 4-Jaw

nor

the 3-Jaw allows it to grip sufficiently. It seems to be a sort
of 'Blind Spot'.

I want to machine both ends but to make a mandrel that size seems a
bit OTT.

Any ideas?
Regards
Ken

Large tubing always seems to flex it's way out of the jaws. How
about a tapered hardwood plug, center drilled and used with the live
center?

Recently I saw plans for a large aluminum live center special made
for large tubing that would be perfect.

Mike

I've chucked a 2" ID piece using the outside of the regular jaws of the
standard 3-jaw chuck. Just remember to turn the handle backwards to
tighten ...@;-)

Graciously,
Jim
Lakewood, CA
All Hail Rube Goldberg!

"Capt Ken Appleby " wrote:

Hi,
I have come across a problem. What is the best way to put a 2"x 8"
Brass tube in the mini-lathe. I find that using neither the 4-Jaw nor
the 3-Jaw allows it to grip sufficiently. It seems to be a sort
of 'Blind Spot'.

I want to machine both ends but to make a mandrel that size seems a
bit OTT.

Any ideas?
Regards
Ken

sorry mike i got your name mixed up with another e-mail i was doing at the
same time!!!


BEST WISHES FOR 2003

DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND

www.smartgroups.com/groups/pre78bmw

the chester cobra is the same as the SEIG X1. chester even use the seig
picture from their website,price is 茂驴陆339 as opposed to 茂驴陆499 at warco. have
you bought a micro mill steve? you could always pop over for a brew, i live
in astley bridge.



BEST WISHES FOR 2003

DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND

www.smartgroups.com/groups/pre78bmw

I have bought several machines from Chester, David and also found the machines as supplied
were useless. They all needed stripping and rebuilding.

The service from Chester was abysmal.

They are just box shifters, like Warco.

The Cobra is not identical to the Taig/Peatol.

BR

Mike Ousby, in Blackburn not far from either Keighley or Bolton