Actually, that old plumber's "3 basic rules" apply just as well to brazing as to soft soldering. You're just using different flux and (a lot) more heat.
Mike Taglieri?
On Fri, Sep 20, 2024, 12:46 PM Ralph Hulslander via <rhulslander= [email protected]> wrote: You do not want to "solder" a steam boiler! You need to braze it.
I do have to admit I have soldered a steam coil which was not directly fired.
Ralph
The old plumber who taught me to solder had 3 basic rules:
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?1. Cleanliness is the key to success - surfaces to be soldered MUST be cleaned to bright, shiny metal.
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?2. Flux is your friend - apply it to all surfaces before heating.
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?3. Solder flows towards the heat source - that was before hot melt glue guns were common.? The basic idea was to apply heat to the area you want the solder to flow towards, not the outer surface.
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Roy
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You do not want to "solder" a steam boiler! You need to braze it.
I do have to admit I have soldered a steam coil which was not directly fired.
Ralph
The old plumber who taught me to solder had 3 basic rules:
?
?1. Cleanliness is the key to success - surfaces to be soldered MUST be cleaned to bright, shiny metal.
?
?2. Flux is your friend - apply it to all surfaces before heating.
?
?3. Solder flows towards the heat source - that was before hot melt glue guns were common.? The basic idea was to apply heat to the area you want the solder to flow towards, not the outer surface.
?
Roy
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The old plumber who taught me to solder had 3 basic rules:
?
?1. Cleanliness is the key to success - surfaces to be soldered MUST be cleaned to bright, shiny metal.
?
?2. Flux is your friend - apply it to all surfaces before heating.
?
?3. Solder flows towards the heat source - that was before hot melt glue guns were common.? The basic idea was to apply heat to the area you want the solder to flow towards, not the outer surface.
?
Roy
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Johannes,
I am not very good at soldering and I am scared of boilers bursting so I use a small air compressor to run my steam engines.?
Yes the plans were converted to metric by Mr. J. de Waal in New Zealand, he has a lot of plans on his site which is shown at the bottom of the plans.
I prefer to work in metric if I can but most plans are either old British plans or American plans and then I work in imperial.
Regards
?
Dave
Borneo
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Hi David
A beautiful machinery, keeps us updated.
Missing the boiler, is it possible to make one, or do you need a big air pump?
And the drawing is in metric!
Johannes
Mexico
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It is a 2 cylinder double sided beam engine. A bit too big for my small machines, I will try to attach the plan
Attachments:
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It is a 2 cylinder double sided beam engine. A bit too big for my small machines, I will try to attach the plan
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Looks good, David.? What's the engine you're building?
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Mike
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I have eventually got round to machining the flywheel, I opted for drilling and boring 4 x 40mm holes and mounting it in my 4" x 4 jaw scroll chuck as suggested by davesmith1800. This took a while but turned out ok
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Re: Remover for LMS MT2 QCTP holder 250-005
That is a new one.
I have place to put morse drift key on Aloris?
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Thank you?
Dave?
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On Thu, Aug 22, 2024 at 10:36 AM, Bruce J wrote:
If you have more mt2 tools than mt2 QCTP holders...
On Aug 22, 2024, at 8:44?AM, davesmith1800 via groups.io <davesmith1@...> wrote:
I think miss something?
Why do need remove it?
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Dave?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
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Re: Remover for LMS MT2 QCTP holder 250-005
If you have more mt2 tools than mt2 QCTP holders... On Aug 22, 2024, at 8:44?AM, davesmith1800 via groups.io <davesmith1@...> wrote:
I think miss something?
Why do need remove it?
?
Dave?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
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Re: Remover for LMS MT2 QCTP holder 250-005
I think miss something?
Why do need remove it?
?
Dave?
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Re: Remover for LMS MT2 QCTP holder 250-005
Yea - used one of those too, until I made this.? So much quicker to just drop it in and pop the arbor out...
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On 8/21/2024 9:59 AM, paul mcclintic via groups.io wrote: You could also use a regular 2 jaw puller with a short piece of rod. Paul M
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Re: Remover for LMS MT2 QCTP holder 250-005
You could also use a regular 2 jaw puller with a short piece of rod. Paul M
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Re: Remover for LMS MT2 QCTP holder 250-005
Tried that... they seemed a bit? flimsy for some of the mt2 arbors I had. I even mod'ed them to get rid of the thin section.
Plus like all gear pullers they're a bit of a pain to deal with. With this you just drop it in and it pops it out.? LMS should sell something like this for that QCTP MT2 holder.
?I recall when I did the 2" riser for the solid column mill? and sent photos to Chris - .? He then started selling them.
Also when I did the pin assembly to hold the spindle (see this: ) he ended up making a similar thing - tho it had an interlock circuit.
I've sent him a few things that he ended up selling.? Lots of mods for LMS lathes and mills on my swarf page:
I use my tools for my job. Any mod that can make it easier, more accurate, and faster I'll do...
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On 8/20/2024 8:20 PM, Roy via groups.io wrote: Another way is to use a faucet handle puller, which saves having another single use tool.
< >
Yuck! Here's the tiny URL version:
< >
Roy
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Re: Remover for LMS MT2 QCTP holder 250-005
Another way is to use a faucet handle puller, which saves having another single use tool.
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?< >
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Yuck! Here's the tiny URL version:
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?< >
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Roy
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Remover for LMS MT2 QCTP holder 250-005
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Re: "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener
This is yet another variation of a fusible alloy?which is manufactured by Cerrobend and other smelters.? And yes it is pretty strong and can be brittle.? ?An AI search disclosed that Cerrobend “is?a metal alloy made of bismuth, lead, tin, and cadmium?that is also known as Wood's metal, Lipowitz's alloy, Bendalloy, Pewtalloy, and MCP 158. ?It's a eutectic alloy with a low melting point of 158° F (70° C), which is 54° F below the boiling point of water.? Cerrobend is useful in many industries because of its low melting point and controlled shrinkage, including: Soldering, Making custom metal parts, Anchoring bushings in drill jigs, Cores for spinning, Tube-bending filler, X-ray and electron radiotherapy shielding blocks?.” ·??????? ? “Cerrobend is easy and relatively safe to handle, flows freely when molten, and slightly expands after solidifying in a tube to create a snug fit and accurate bends.?It can also be reused without significant loss or deterioration if handled properly.?However, Cerrobend's fumes and skin exposure are toxic, so it's important to take precautions when using it,.?“ We used to use it to make custom shielding blocks for high energy radiation therapy of cancer patients.? A hot-wire pantograph-like ?device was used to cut out molds for the shields from Styrofoam slabs, and the resulting openings then filled with the molten alloy and left to solidify.? When the patient finished their several-week-long course of therapy, the shield blocks were re-melted in a heavy duty temperature-controlled “coffee maker” and the metal reused.? ? Jerry F. ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2024 11:44 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener? ??? SO is Cerosafe strong enough to pour into a threaded hole & then cut a slot & unscrew it ? Do ya have to use some kind of release agent ? From what little reading I just did ( wikipedia ) , Sounds like some interesting stuff . I've seen & heard of Cerokote but not Cerosafe , same family ? thanks animal On 8/16/24 7:11 AM, OldToolmaker via groups.io wrote: Thanks for mentioning Cerosafe! I had forgotten about this method!
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Re: "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener
Cerrosafe should be strong enough though I have never tried it like that. I have used it making chamber casts in firearms. Depending on the application, there may be enough "sprue" left over to turn the casting out. Cerrosafe shrinks for a short period of time after cooling which should allow it to be easily removed/screwed out. Do not leave it in to long and follow the instructions as after a period of time it will expand. It is also reusable, just remelt it. Be careful using it in areas that are extremely sensitive due to heat getting the metal into other areas and not being able to get it out easily. I did something like that in a lever gun receiver.
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Re: "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener
From their site, it initially shrinks, then expands a little after it solidifies:
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?< >
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Other thing, 1/2"-20 is a UNF thread, relatively easy to find, although LH stuff is less common, therefore pricier.
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Roy
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Re: "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener
??? SO is Cerosafe strong enough to pour into a threaded hole
& then cut a slot & unscrew it ? Do ya have to use some
kind of release agent ? From what little reading I just did (
wikipedia ) , Sounds like some interesting stuff . I've seen &
heard of Cerokote but not Cerosafe , same family ?
thanks
animal
On 8/16/24 7:11 AM, OldToolmaker via
groups.io wrote:
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Roy,
Thanks for mentioning Cerosafe!
I had forgotten about this method!
Dick
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David James
Johannes
davesmith1800