Re: Dial indicator disassembly
Right, but I'm trying to fix it.
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Re: Dial indicator disassembly
??? It still works if ya zero it . I thought those 2" ones cost a
fair bit more than a 1" but Shars has one for 28 bucks if ya order
online , but probably another 20 bucks freight ?
animal
On 4/22/24 5:45 PM, upand_at_them via
groups.io wrote:
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Unfortunately, mine is like none of those.? No screws or retainers
holding it on.
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Re: Dial indicator disassembly
Unfortunately, mine is like none of those.? No screws or retainers holding it on.  
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Re: Dial indicator disassembly
Not familiar with the LMS.? However, I just had an older Mitutoyo apart that I bought used off ebay.? The bezel and housing gets pried off - there are wire spring retainers in a groove that keep it in place.
That said, I have other indicators that have snap rings holding the bezel on, and some I haven't figured out how to get apart.? I think the Federals have a small gap in the bezel housing that you stick a tool into...
On Monday, April 22nd, 2024 at 8:22 PM, upand_at_them via groups.io <upand_at_them@...> wrote:
Has anyone had one of the LMS 2" dial indicators apart?? I got a used one for just a few dollars and it needs a little fixing.? The needle is bent, but I can't get the front bezel off.
Mike
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Dial indicator disassembly
Has anyone had one of the LMS 2" dial indicators apart?? I got a used one for just a few dollars and it needs a little fixing.? The needle is bent, but I can't get the front bezel off.
Mike
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Re: 7x16 Lathe Ways Indicator Holder?
I'm in the process of making one right now.? It'll hold an indicator or a stop for the carraige.? It clamps to the bed vee.? Not difficult to make if you have the mini-mill.? Just takes a few iterations to get the fit perfect.
Mike
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Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
I have used wood for packing on the mill table under plastic sheeting and thin metal that will be cut through on a single pass .
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
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Dear Mike,
Thank you. That¡¯s an XLNT idea.
David
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On 20 Apr 2024, at 02:45, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
?Not sure if this applies to the smaller lathes , but here it is just in case . A pretty clever fix .
animal
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Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
"I am the only one doing this?"
Nope, I've done it many times. With a new, experimental idea, you can't be sure it'll work at all until you make a prototype and try it.? Might as well make that prototype out of plentiful and inexpensive material.
Mike Taglieri?
Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets).
I am the only one doing this?
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Not sure if this applies to the smaller lathes , but here it is just in case . A pretty clever fix .
animal
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Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
A number of Ted Hansen¡¯s articles in his Minilathe book and articles in HSM use wood; like using plywood on the faceplate to screw down parts requiring odd bores, or as a protective measure when boring through-holes.?
At the beginning of his book he makes a fly cutter and uses it to make a new pulley for the lathe¡¯s belt drive, and uses wood to set the height of the fly cutter stock before milling the slot, and later as part of a dividing apparatus to machine the pulley grooves, using the fly cutter he made.
For one-off fixtures or things that don¡¯t require the strength of metal, it¡¯s ideal since it can be shaped without nearly as much effort or time.
On Apr 19, 2024, at 3:40 PM, chrisser via groups.io <chris.kucia@...> wrote:
I think some wooden knobs might be interesting.
Can't say I ever made any fixtures out of wood, although the wood mockup idea seems sound.
If I'm not using metal, I tend more towards plastic but I imagine the right specie of hardwood can be useful in some cases.
On Friday, April 19th, 2024 at 6:22 PM, Walter Wpg <walter.wpg@...> wrote:
Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets).
I am the only one doing this?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
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Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
I have use metal lathes for a lot of wood work.
Foundry patterns,? replacement parts, electronics and list goes on. Does far better job than wool lathes.?
Dave?
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Charles Kinzer
3:50pm? ?
I suspect it is uncommon in the world of making accessories for machine tools. But certainly not a bad idea
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Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
I suspect it is uncommon in the world of making accessories for machine tools.? But certainly not a bad idea.? What it is - is -prototyping.? When I was an Engineering Manager I promoted the notion "prototype early and often."? It is a fast way to find out if things make any sense or have any surprises.? It has another benefit that won't matter to the "lone wolf" home machinist.? And that is making it much easier for others to see the design who may not comprehend very well just looking at drawings.? (Of course, this might also include the design engineer!)
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Friday, April 19, 2024 at 03:22:51 PM PDT, Walter Wpg <walter.wpg@...> wrote:
Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets).
I am the only one doing this?
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Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
Substituting wood for metal can be very practical. I worked with a old machinist in my youth who told of the depression thrift days repairs of vehicle /tractor's? with wood replacement fenders, front axels etc.
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Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
I think some wooden knobs might be interesting.
Can't say I ever made any fixtures out of wood, although the wood mockup idea seems sound.
If I'm not using metal, I tend more towards plastic but I imagine the right specie of hardwood can be useful in some cases.
On Friday, April 19th, 2024 at 6:22 PM, Walter Wpg <walter.wpg@...> wrote:
Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets).
I am the only one doing this?
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Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
What is your question?
Dave?
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Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets).
I am the only one doing this?
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Re: 7x16 Lathe Ways Indicator Holder?
You can get a magnetic back to mount an indicator on:
?<??>
You could also make one with the magnet from a junked speaker; if you go that route, make sure you fill gap where the voice coil used to ride with something non-magnetic (epoxy or auto body filler) before using it anywhere there's magnetic swarf.
Roy
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Re: LMS 5000 Bed Extension kit - Carriage Adjustment
You're close - I would tighten it a smidgen more.
ralphie
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LMS 5000 Bed Extension kit - Carriage Adjustment
I worked on the bed extension project again today.? Taking it a bit slow
on this project. No problem with adjusting out the carriage play.? I'm
wondering just how "freely" the carriage should move??? I currently have
it adjusted so there's no play in the vertical plane, but a little play
when I rotate the carriage clockwise and counter clockwise.? If I lift
one end of the bed, the carriage will slide down the ways.? Too loose?
Thanks for any help.
Stan
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chrisser
davesmith1800
Ralph Lehotsky