George, ? You might want to have a quick look at ? to understand why they are made the way they are (and each manufacturer is different). ? Good Luck, ? Jerry F. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of gcvisalia@...
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2024 11:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] 123 blocks? Yea, I bought that kit at the time I ordered the original blocks from amazon. I basically knew that the unthreaded holes dont always allow the threaded boots to go through but still thought I would be able to do something or get lucky. Almost made it with the lms set but only got one good block. Not making them that way just makes no sense. Well, to me.? On Tuesday, January 23, 2024 at 03:50:13 PM PST, BuffaloJohn <johndurbetaki@...> wrote: I've bee happy using this product: which is designed to be used on the import blocks which I have never found to have a usable thread or clearance hole. ? If you purchased imported 123 blocks it’s a hit n miss.? If you’re looking for perfect 123 blocks you’ll need to spend some extra money and get them from a reputable manufacturer like Starrett or similar.? The other option is to run a tap through the thread holes to clean them up.
? How about talking 123 blocks. I'm a bit at a loss about them. Or the basic manufacturing of them and what's expected. I bought one set on amazon and it was awful.? Couldnt even screw in a bolt. Retuned it. Then ordered a kit from lms. One block was perfect for me, I could insert the supplied bolts into every hole. Bolts threaded in nicely in the threaded holes. But the other block I could not insert the bolt into any of the unthreaded holes. I contacted lms and got the we will call you back message. Left a message but never recieved a call back. So much for customer service. Anyway I thought I could use a grinding stone to open them up. But after two broken stones and one burnt out fuse on my dremel I'm at a loss. Anything on these issues would be appreciated.
--
Buffalo John
|
This dude: thinks they cloned a poor design or got the measurements wrong (imperial/metric screw-up), but they drill all the holes correctly sized for threading but they don’t go back and bore out the clearance holes. ? And as said, good luck doing that yourself. ? They’ve been making those wrong for years & years.? Crap keeps getting made because we buy it because it’s cheap.? Sure it’s easy to fix, but why bother? ? I’ve had a pair of those, and I made something like the kludge kit John linked to: .? That’s a cross dowel barrel nut used in furniture, if you’ve got an Ikea bed you’ve seen them. ? I’m amused at the patent.? No, you can’t patent an existing idea by simply using it somewhere else.? Stop being silly. ? Tony ? ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of gcvisalia@...
Sent: Wednesday, 24 January 2024 6:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] 123 blocks? Yea, I bought that kit at the time I ordered the original blocks from amazon. I basically knew that the unthreaded holes dont always allow the threaded boots to go through but still thought I would be able to do something or get lucky. Almost made it with the lms set but only got one good block. Not making them that way just makes no sense. Well, to me.? On Tuesday, January 23, 2024 at 03:50:13 PM PST, BuffaloJohn <johndurbetaki@...> wrote: I've bee happy using this product: which is designed to be used on the import blocks which I have never found to have a usable thread or clearance hole. ? If you purchased imported 123 blocks it’s a hit n miss.? If you’re looking for perfect 123 blocks you’ll need to spend some extra money and get them from a reputable manufacturer like Starrett or similar.? The other option is to run a tap through the thread holes to clean them up.
? How about talking 123 blocks. I'm a bit at a loss about them. Or the basic manufacturing of them and what's expected. I bought one set on amazon and it was awful.? Couldnt even screw in a bolt. Retuned it. Then ordered a kit from lms. One block was perfect for me, I could insert the supplied bolts into every hole. Bolts threaded in nicely in the threaded holes. But the other block I could not insert the bolt into any of the unthreaded holes. I contacted lms and got the we will call you back message. Left a message but never recieved a call back. So much for customer service. Anyway I thought I could use a grinding stone to open them up. But after two broken stones and one burnt out fuse on my dremel I'm at a loss. Anything on these issues would be appreciated.
--
Buffalo John
|
Re: White lead for centers and chucks
Price & performance as usual. ? The old dynamos were pretty crap, and incandescent lamps didn’t help.? Better than nothing though, and battery powered was worse.? Today with neodymium magnets & LEDs they’re so much better, but you’re up against $5 lights with USB rechargeable batteries that are even better. ? Everything has its niche, as before the rideshare bikes use the hub dynamo & LED combo because it works there. ? Tony ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: Wednesday, 24 January 2024 3:02 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] White lead for centers and chucks? ??? ??? Thats kinds funny how they had that technology for that & then dropped it for like 50? maybe more years & then brought it back . Like steering locks they had them in the 40's & dropped them cause they were such a big inconvenience to people . Yer rent a cop was probably of teh group that wonders how a thermos knows how to keep something warm or cold . animal On 1/23/24 5:45 PM, Roy via groups.io wrote: I had a Raleigh bike that had a dyno hub in the front wheel. That was in the late '50s. IIRC, it wasn't a great light source. From memory, it was thinner & larger diameter than the pix in the link.
For comic relief, I once had a base rent-a-cop at Newport, RI bewildered that my generator lights (different bike) went out when I stopped & came back on when I was moving;-)
Roy
|
Yea, I bought that kit at the time I ordered the original blocks from amazon. I basically knew that the unthreaded holes dont always allow the threaded boots to go through but still thought I would be able to do something or get lucky. Almost made it with the lms set but only got one good block. Not making them that way just makes no sense. Well, to me.?
george
On Tuesday, January 23, 2024 at 03:50:13 PM PST, BuffaloJohn <johndurbetaki@...> wrote:
I've bee happy using this product:
which is designed to be used on the import blocks which I have never found to have a usable thread or clearance hole.
If you purchased imported 123 blocks it’s a hit n miss.? If you’re looking for perfect 123 blocks you’ll need to spend some extra money and get them from a reputable manufacturer like Starrett or similar.? The other option is to run a tap through the thread holes to clean them up. Have A Great Day?? Tracy Ranson
How about talking 123 blocks. I'm a bit at a loss about them. Or the basic manufacturing of them and what's expected. I bought one set on amazon and it was awful.? Couldnt even screw in a bolt. Retuned it. Then ordered a kit from lms. One block was perfect for me, I could insert the supplied bolts into every hole. Bolts threaded in nicely in the threaded holes. But the other block I could not insert the bolt into any of the unthreaded holes. I contacted lms and got the we will call you back message. Left a message but never recieved a call back. So much for customer service. Anyway I thought I could use a grinding stone to open them up. But after two broken stones and one burnt out fuse on my dremel I'm at a loss. Anything on these issues would be appreciated.
george
--
Buffalo John
|
Re: White lead for centers and chucks
??? ??? Thats kinds funny how they had that technology for that
& then dropped it for like 50? maybe more years & then
brought it back . Like steering locks they had them in the 40's
& dropped them cause they were such a big inconvenience to
people . Yer rent a cop was probably of teh group that wonders how
a thermos knows how to keep something warm or cold .
animal
On 1/23/24 5:45 PM, Roy via groups.io
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I had a Raleigh bike that had a dyno hub in the front wheel. That
was in the late '50s. IIRC, it wasn't a great light source. From
memory, it was thinner & larger diameter than the pix in the
link.
For comic relief, I once had a base rent-a-cop at Newport, RI
bewildered that my generator lights (different bike) went out when
I stopped & came back on when I was moving;-)
Roy
|
Re: White lead for centers and chucks
I had a Raleigh bike that had a dyno hub in the front wheel. That was in the late '50s. IIRC, it wasn't a great light source. From memory, it was thinner & larger diameter than the pix in the link.
For comic relief, I once had a base rent-a-cop at Newport, RI bewildered that my generator lights (different bike) went out when I stopped & came back on when I was moving;-)
Roy
|
The blocks are thru-hardened; trying to run a tap into one is asking for a broken tap.
Roy
|
I forgot to mention that the link John provided those threaded
barrels in the kit can be bought at a lot of hardware stores from
the bin marked furniture parts . I still need to see what threads
the ones at my store have .
animal
On 1/23/24 3:49 PM, BuffaloJohn wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I've bee happy using this product:
which is designed to be used on the import blocks which I
have never found to have a usable thread or clearance hole.
If you purchased imported 123 blocks it’s a
hit n miss.? If you’re looking for perfect 123 blocks you’ll
need to spend some extra money and get them from a reputable
manufacturer like Starrett or similar.? The other option is
to run a tap through the thread holes to clean them up.
Have
A Great Day??
Tracy
Ranson
How about talking 123 blocks. I'm a bit at a
loss about them. Or the basic manufacturing of
them and what's expected. I bought one set on
amazon and it was awful.? Couldnt even screw in a
bolt. Retuned it. Then ordered a kit from lms. One
block was perfect for me, I could insert the
supplied bolts into every hole. Bolts threaded in
nicely in the threaded holes. But the other block
I could not insert the bolt into any of the
unthreaded holes. I contacted lms and got the we
will call you back message. Left a message but
never recieved a call back. So much for customer
service. Anyway I thought I could use a grinding
stone to open them up. But after two broken stones
and one burnt out fuse on my dremel I'm at a loss.
Anything on these issues would be appreciated.
george
--
|
??? ??? MY kids got me another set for Christmas from All
Industrial Tool . I just pulled them out to check them out? The
threaded holes I tried did work though a bit rough . I've seen a
few folks on youtube complaining of the same issues as George . I
have no idea how the real ones , Starrett, Brown & Sharpe ,
Suburban are made but I have never seen a 123 or a 234 block that
will allow a bolt the same size at the threads to pass through the
non threaded holes . I saw the kit that John shared & said yep
, I'm gonna make me some of them ...... Thanks for refreshing my
memory , it seems it needs reminding? more often these days? . I
can see that set coming in super handy if a guy/gal doesn't have
any angle plates .
animal
On 1/23/24 3:49 PM, BuffaloJohn wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I've bee happy using this product:
which is designed to be used on the import blocks which I
have never found to have a usable thread or clearance hole.
If you purchased imported 123 blocks it’s a
hit n miss.? If you’re looking for perfect 123 blocks you’ll
need to spend some extra money and get them from a reputable
manufacturer like Starrett or similar.? The other option is
to run a tap through the thread holes to clean them up.
Have
A Great Day??
Tracy
Ranson
How about talking 123 blocks. I'm a bit at a
loss about them. Or the basic manufacturing of
them and what's expected. I bought one set on
amazon and it was awful.? Couldnt even screw in a
bolt. Retuned it. Then ordered a kit from lms. One
block was perfect for me, I could insert the
supplied bolts into every hole. Bolts threaded in
nicely in the threaded holes. But the other block
I could not insert the bolt into any of the
unthreaded holes. I contacted lms and got the we
will call you back message. Left a message but
never recieved a call back. So much for customer
service. Anyway I thought I could use a grinding
stone to open them up. But after two broken stones
and one burnt out fuse on my dremel I'm at a loss.
Anything on these issues would be appreciated.
george
--
Buffalo John
|
George, ? 123 blocks are machined, HARDENED, and ground to final dimension.? Grinding on one freehand with a Dremel may not work out for you as expected. ?If you have a block with tapped holes, they may have intentionally tapped just some of the holes and drilled others larger as through holes. ?It is also possible that some poorly-paid machine operator just grabbed a metric machine tap lying nearby on the floor and put it through your imperial block. ????As others have mentioned, you usually get what you pay for. ? Jerry F. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of gcvisalia@...
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2024 2:07 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] 123 blocks? How about talking 123 blocks. I'm a bit at a loss about them. Or the basic manufacturing of them and what's expected. I bought one set on amazon and it was awful.? Couldnt even screw in a bolt. Retuned it. Then ordered a kit from lms. One block was perfect for me, I could insert the supplied bolts into every hole. Bolts threaded in nicely in the threaded holes. But the other block I could not insert the bolt into any of the unthreaded holes. I contacted lms and got the we will call you back message. Left a message but never recieved a call back. So much for customer service. Anyway I thought I could use a grinding stone to open them up. But after two broken stones and one burnt out fuse on my dremel I'm at a loss. Anything on these issues would be appreciated.
|
I've bee happy using this product:
which is designed to be used on the import blocks which I have never found to have a usable thread or clearance hole.
If you purchased imported 123 blocks it’s a hit n miss.? If you’re looking for perfect 123 blocks you’ll need to spend some extra money and get them from a reputable manufacturer like Starrett or similar.? The other option is to run a tap through the thread holes to clean them up. Have A Great Day?? Tracy Ranson
How about talking 123 blocks. I'm a bit at a loss about them. Or the basic manufacturing of them and what's expected. I bought one set on amazon and it was awful.? Couldnt even screw in a bolt. Retuned it. Then ordered a kit from lms. One block was perfect for me, I could insert the supplied bolts into every hole. Bolts threaded in nicely in the threaded holes. But the other block I could not insert the bolt into any of the unthreaded holes. I contacted lms and got the we will call you back message. Left a message but never recieved a call back. So much for customer service. Anyway I thought I could use a grinding stone to open them up. But after two broken stones and one burnt out fuse on my dremel I'm at a loss. Anything on these issues would be appreciated.
george
--
Buffalo John
|
If you purchased imported 123 blocks it’s a hit n miss.? If you’re looking for perfect 123 blocks you’ll need to spend some extra money and get them from a reputable manufacturer like Starrett or similar.? The other option is to run a tap through the thread holes to clean them up. Have A Great Day?? Tracy Ranson
How about talking 123 blocks. I'm a bit at a loss about them. Or the basic manufacturing of them and what's expected. I bought one set on amazon and it was awful.? Couldnt even screw in a bolt. Retuned it. Then ordered a kit from lms. One block was perfect for me, I could insert the supplied bolts into every hole. Bolts threaded in nicely in the threaded holes. But the other block I could not insert the bolt into any of the unthreaded holes. I contacted lms and got the we will call you back message. Left a message but never recieved a call back. So much for customer service. Anyway I thought I could use a grinding stone to open them up. But after two broken stones and one burnt out fuse on my dremel I'm at a loss. Anything on these issues would be appreciated.
george
|
They used for setups and measuring.?
I have 6 123 blocks and mostly use set on mills. I have never use the tap holes but books will show the holes in use.?
Dave?
|
How about talking 123 blocks. I'm a bit at a loss about them. Or the basic manufacturing of them and what's expected. I bought one set on amazon and it was awful.? Couldnt even screw in a bolt. Retuned it. Then ordered a kit from lms. One block was perfect for me, I could insert the supplied bolts into every hole. Bolts threaded in nicely in the threaded holes. But the other block I could not insert the bolt into any of the unthreaded holes. I contacted lms and got the we will call you back message. Left a message but never recieved a call back. So much for customer service. Anyway I thought I could use a grinding stone to open them up. But after two broken stones and one burnt out fuse on my dremel I'm at a loss. Anything on these issues would be appreciated.
george
|
Re: White lead for centers and chucks
??? Yer pretty spot on both Tony & Bruce . Though I can't
swear it was a Shimano? It's been several years now , but it must
have been a pretty smooth operation for the shifting or I'd
probably remember if it was cumbersome . My only other experience
with these was the you Sturmey Archers 3 speeds but tht was a long
long time ago . I kinda remember a bud that had a Schwinn Stingray
that had a 2 speed? rear wheel hub with no outside control , IIRC
ya gave a quick backwards kick on he pedals & it shifted gears
?
animal
On 1/23/24 8:56 AM, Bruce J wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Yes, it was the pedals, but one of these in the front wheel??and
something like this in the rear instead of the usual derailleur
and cassette??
(I’m guessing here)
"a generator in the front hub , transmission in the
rear hub".
Where was the primary power source?? Unless you're
suggesting some sort of perpetual motion machine.?
Wouldn't the generator be driven by the pedals?
?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are
made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him
botulism.
|
Re: White lead for centers and chucks
??? Doesn't the front wheel spin just like the back wheel ?
??? animal
On 1/23/24 8:35 AM, Mark Kimball wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
"a generator in the front hub , transmission in the rear hub".
Where was the primary power source?? Unless you're suggesting some
sort of perpetual motion machine.? Wouldn't the generator be
driven by the pedals?
?
|
Re: White lead for centers and chucks
Primary power source is you pedalling. ?Not quite perpetual motion. ? He means a dynamo in the front hub to power the lights (a bit of a step up from the wheel driven ones), and a gear box in rear hub.? All nice & neat, no derailleurs, no batteries. ? A lot of those rideshare bikes have a similar set-up. ? Shimano were making the 8-speed version a while back, though I haven’t seen a hub geared bike for decades.? I’ve not looked too closely at the rideshare ones, I should next time I see one. ? Tony ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Mark Kimball
Sent: Wednesday, 24 January 2024 3:36 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] White lead for centers and chucks? "a generator in the front hub , transmission in the rear hub".
Where was the primary power source?? Unless you're suggesting some sort of perpetual motion machine.? Wouldn't the generator be driven by the pedals?
|
Re: White lead for centers and chucks
Yes, it was the pedals, but one of these in the front wheel??and something like this in the rear instead of the usual derailleur and cassette??
(I’m guessing here)
On Jan 23, 2024, at 9:35 AM, Mark Kimball <markkimball51@...> wrote:
"a generator in the front hub , transmission in the rear hub". Where was the primary power source?? Unless you're suggesting some sort of perpetual motion machine.? Wouldn't the generator be driven by the pedals?
?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
Re: White lead for centers and chucks
"a generator in the front hub , transmission in the rear hub". Where was the primary power source?? Unless you're suggesting some sort of perpetual motion machine.? Wouldn't the generator be driven by the pedals?
?
|
Here a drawing on fine feed works on drill press too.
Dave?
|
BuffaloJohn
T
davesmith1800