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Re: belt slip on Mini Lathe Machine with 600W
What little information the belt with 180¡ã rap 5 vee 12 mm poly belt can best at 1,800 rpm is ?hp / 370 watts. The best I? could find not very good information on power. If just simple calc at 3,600 rpm can go 1 hp / 740 watts so is basic ok on motors. But next reduction does not work the belt is going to slip even using simple calcs.?
On south Bend 9 in 1980's I used a poly v about 1" wide 4" dia at 800 rpm and never slipped on 1? hp DC motor
How tight can you tighten this belt ?
Dave
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If wonder why funniest is when is slow everyone likes a funny to read.?
Please post your funny story every month.?
Remember have fun
Dave
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Now we know? 
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Re: 7x16 Spindle to Tailstock Alignment Test Outcome
I have rebuilt a lot of old tools .
I get tail stock and head stock real close.
The chuck a Morse tapper reamer. The re-ream the tail stock quill.? Now it is very accurate and is simple.?
Did like parts of you book you posted on what say about it would have great 50 years ago.?
I would here storeys of casting of machine tools not age. You could see the casting with curve.? Hot castings to machine shop. I think have learned by now or maybe on mini lathes.?
Dave
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Re: 7x16 Spindle to Tailstock Alignment Test Outcome
Don't forget to check the height of the TS; it should match the HS height. Getting an assortment of brass shim stock is worthwhile - once you have it on hand, you'll be amazed at how handy it is.
Roy
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Re: 7x16 Spindle to Tailstock Alignment Test Outcome
In Ted Hansens mini lathe book he uses aluminum foil shims under the front/rear of the headstock.
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I really recommend this book. He goes through aligning (and improving) the Mini-lathe to create a much more accurate system, and the advertised ¡®every project only requires the Mini-lathe and a drill press¡¯ is correct.?
He¡¯s also published a few more articles in Home Shop Machinist since the book came out for further refinements
On Dec 14, 2023, at 11:03 AM, CBJessee-N4SRN <cbjesseeNH@...> wrote:
I started wondering if I could trust my 350mm MT3 test bar, so set up my indicator to zero on the top surface and ran it 10¡± to the end of the unsupported test bar (it¡¯s ~1¡± diameter) to confirm 0.008¡± deviation from spindle to 10¡± out. Then I popped the test bar out, rotated it 180 degree and mounted its MT3 taper again, with the same results. So, the test bar is pretty straight. Is it fair to conclude that the 0.008¡± rise is headstock/ways misalignment? I¡¯m mounting my indicator on top of the locked compound/locked cross slide.
I think I need only remove the control box and motor cover from the LMS 7x16 to get to all three headstock bolts. When I reassembled, I ran a bronze brush with WD-40 over the headstock surfaces to remove any paint overspray and gummed lubricant residue, wiped them well and lightly oiled before progressively snugging the bolts down.
Would the strategy be to loosen the left-end ?bolt and tighten the two right-end bolts to try and drop the tilt down?
<IMG_2635.jpeg>
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
Re: 7x16 Spindle to Tailstock Alignment Test Outcome
I started wondering if I could trust my 350mm MT3 test bar, so set up my indicator to zero on the top surface and ran it 10¡± to the end of the unsupported test bar (it¡¯s ~1¡± diameter) to confirm 0.008¡± deviation from spindle to 10¡± out. Then I popped the test bar out, rotated it 180 degree and mounted its MT3 taper again, with the same results. So, the test bar is pretty straight. Is it fair to conclude that the 0.008¡± rise is headstock/ways misalignment? I¡¯m mounting my indicator on top of the locked compound/locked cross slide. I think I need only remove the control box and motor cover from the LMS 7x16 to get to all three headstock bolts. When I reassembled, I ran a bronze brush with WD-40 over the headstock surfaces to remove any paint overspray and gummed lubricant residue, wiped them well and lightly oiled before progressively snugging the bolts down. Would the strategy be to loosen the left-end ?bolt and tighten the two right-end bolts to try and drop the tilt down? 
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Re: belt slip on Mini Lathe Machine with 600W
I think calculations for horse power is from vacuum cleaner companies.??
If calculated the power the belt can take at 1,800 RPM using 2" pulley with 180¡ã wrap it is a full 1/2 HP American .
I can not see a mini lathe using a full horse.??
The torque is need at lower speeds .?
I think biggest improvement need on mini is the power to spindle.?
Witch can done with a lot of work and cost.
Dave?
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mike allen
Dec 2? ?
Tom do ya know what the RPM range is on that motor ? they don't say anything bout RPM unless I was staring right at it . My math puts that motor at 1.33 HP . Seems like a lot for these small lathes . But I also think our buds overseas have a different way of calculating things than we do .
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Re: Tool post on mini lathe
Close-up? 
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I install my tool post on my mini lathe today.
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Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
Grease everthing then wrap in plastic
Build a plywood box use a lot of screws .Do not use nails.?
Stuff box full of paper or popcorn ??
Then put wood box in a cardboard box for shipping company.?
Put a shipping label on the lathe and each box.
Dave
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Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
In 2015 I packed and shipped my tools including a mini lathe 7x16 ?and my LMS mini mill. ?They were shipped from the East coast of the US to the Philippines. ?I worked with a broker for advise and used them for shipping and customs. ?I packed all of it myself. ?The broker said my total weight exceeded 7000 lbs. ?Some household goos but most of the weight was tools. ?Then in 2020 I did it again all in reverse moving back to Maryland. The lathe, mill, and table saw were all packed in plywood boxes. ?The bottoms and ends of the boxes I used 3/4¡± plywood. ?The sides and top I used 1/2¡± and 3/8¡± of which I happened to have on hand. ?When using plywood there is no need for the ISPM-15 compliant stamp. ?I used 2.5¡± screws to attach the ends to the bottoms and 1.5¡± screws for the lighter plywood. ?The machines were through bolted to the bottom of the boxes and all movable parts secured. ?I sprayed all exposed metal with Bosheild. ?The shipment going to the Philippines took almost 5 months. ?Returning took a little longer because waiting for containers due to Covid. ? The main thing to remember like others have mentioned is to secure the lathe to the bottom of the box/crate and have to loose parts to move around. ?I did not use any filler because I felt my boxes were secure enough without. ?I am about 300lbs and my boxes had no issue supporting my weight standing on the or stacking. ?My tools arrived intact with no breakage or issues after each shipment.
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On Dec 13, 2023, at 1:58 PM, mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
?I did spray foam for custom computer packing for 2 years in the
70's? ( yea I'm that old ) . If ya plan to go this rout make sure
the lathe is secured to what ever ya use for a packing base . Use
hardware that is protected from loosening & double/triple
check that? the hardware is tight & cannot come loose . Use
locktite , double nuts, aircraft nuts or smash the bolt so the
nuts cant back off . Ya can remove them at destination with a
hacksaw ( see ya already have a metal working project at yer new
place ) .Make sure whoever does the spray foam double wraps teh
lathe before spraying . If done properly Customs can remove the
foam to inspect the unit & they wrap it back up . animal
On 12/13/23 10:40 AM, Chris Albertson
wrote:
? Was also thinking I could build a decent container out
of aluminum square tubing and sheet welded together for almost
as much as the plastic boxes.
That is the wrong approach. ?You do not need a strong-walled
container. ? What is far more important is to keep the lathe
from moving within the container. ? It must be 100% immobilized
and not allowed to move. ?Spray foam is the best for that unless
you are willing to wire-cut and laminate polyethylene foam. ?
That is only justified if you have hundreds of lathes to ship so
you can reuse the wire cut patterns.
Even if you built a welded steel box, the lathe would be
destroyed in shipping if it were not immobilized inside the box.
? May as well use cardboard with full-thickness poly sheets on
all 6 sides as it is cheap and affective.
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Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
?I did spray foam for custom computer packing for 2 years in the
70's? ( yea I'm that old ) . If ya plan to go this rout make sure
the lathe is secured to what ever ya use for a packing base . Use
hardware that is protected from loosening & double/triple
check that? the hardware is tight & cannot come loose . Use
locktite , double nuts, aircraft nuts or smash the bolt so the
nuts cant back off . Ya can remove them at destination with a
hacksaw ( see ya already have a metal working project at yer new
place ) .Make sure whoever does the spray foam double wraps teh
lathe before spraying . If done properly Customs can remove the
foam to inspect the unit & they wrap it back up .
animal
On 12/13/23 10:40 AM, Chris Albertson
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
? Was also thinking I could build a decent container out
of aluminum square tubing and sheet welded together for almost
as much as the plastic boxes.
That is the wrong approach. ?You do not need a strong-walled
container. ? What is far more important is to keep the lathe
from moving within the container. ? It must be 100% immobilized
and not allowed to move. ?Spray foam is the best for that unless
you are willing to wire-cut and laminate polyethylene foam. ?
That is only justified if you have hundreds of lathes to ship so
you can reuse the wire cut patterns.
Even if you built a welded steel box, the lathe would be
destroyed in shipping if it were not immobilized inside the box.
? May as well use cardboard with full-thickness poly sheets on
all 6 sides as it is cheap and affective.
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Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
? Was also thinking I could build a decent container out of aluminum square tubing and sheet welded together for almost as much as the plastic boxes.
That is the wrong approach. ?You do not need a strong-walled container. ? What is far more important is to keep the lathe from moving within the container. ? It must be 100% immobilized and not allowed to move. ?Spray foam is the best for that unless you are willing to wire-cut and laminate polyethylene foam. ? That is only justified if you have hundreds of lathes to ship so you can reuse the wire cut patterns.
Even if you built a welded steel box, the lathe would be destroyed in shipping if it were not immobilized inside the box. ? May as well use cardboard with full-thickness poly sheets on all 6 sides as it is cheap and affective.
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Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
Yeah.? My understanding is any wood has to be specially certified/stamped.
We live in the boonies - if I can't get it at Home Depot in the nearest city, then I can't get it.
Supposedly plywood is exempt so it might be an option.? Maybe screwed into aluminum square tubing or angle at the joints where normally I'd use lumber?
"... plywood, particle board, oriented strand board or veneer that has been created using glue, heat or pressure, or a combination thereof is of sufficiently low risk and to be exempted from the provisions of the ISPM standard."
On Wednesday, December 13th, 2023 at 1:27 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
Pelican cases are like motorcycle helmets . Do ya protect a
priceless head with a $ 30.00 helmet ? I've seen Anvil cases that
have been around the world several times that have gone through
the hands of teamsters everywhere . Ya can't use wood cause of non
native species going to another country ?
animal
On 12/13/23 7:43 AM, chrisser via
groups.io wrote:
I see your point. My concern was with Customs inspection - but
admittedly I've never shipped anything internationally.
We know there's not much space inside, but to someone looking
at a fully-assembled lathe, between the gear cover, electronics
box, motor cover and headstock, it probably looks like there's a
lot of places to squirrel stuff away. So I was thinking it'd be
better for me to take it apart for them and ship it that way,
then to take the chance of someone trying to figure out how to
disassemble it and maybe do so with less care than I would use.
It's all speculation on my part. I don't know anyone who's
tried this before...
But I have been told by people in the destination country that
it would be far easier and less expensive to ship my existing
lathe into the country as a personal item than try to purchase
one and have it imported. Seems crazy to me, but that's the
advise I was given.
Pelican and their competition sure are proud of their plastic
cases. You can get reasonably-priced knockoffs in the small
sizes, but once you get to large enough to fit the lathe in,
they end up costing more than I paid for my lathe back when I
bought it. Was also thinking I could build a decent container
out of aluminum square tubing and sheet welded together for
almost as much as the plastic boxes.
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Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
Pelican cases are like motorcycle helmets . Do ya protect a
priceless head with a $ 30.00 helmet ? I've seen Anvil cases that
have been around the world several times that have gone through
the hands of teamsters everywhere . Ya can't use wood cause of non
native species going to another country ?
animal
On 12/13/23 7:43 AM, chrisser via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I see your point.? My concern was with Customs inspection - but
admittedly I've never shipped anything internationally.
?
We know there's not much space inside, but to someone looking
at a fully-assembled lathe, between the gear cover, electronics
box, motor cover and headstock, it probably looks like there's a
lot of places to squirrel stuff away.? So I was thinking it'd be
better for me to take it apart for them and ship it that way,
then to take the chance of someone trying to figure out how to
disassemble it and maybe do so with less care than I would use.
?
It's all speculation on my part.? I don't know anyone who's
tried this before...
?
But I have been told by people in the destination country that
it would be far easier and less expensive to ship my existing
lathe into the country as a personal item than try to purchase
one and have it imported.? Seems crazy to me, but that's the
advise I was given.
?
Pelican and their competition sure are proud of their plastic
cases.? You can get reasonably-priced knockoffs in the small
sizes, but once you get to large enough to fit the lathe in,
they end up costing more than I paid for my lathe back when I
bought it.? Was also thinking I could build a decent container
out of aluminum square tubing and sheet welded together for
almost as much as the plastic boxes.
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Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
Others have commented on preparation & rust proofing (I would steer clear of heavy greases and go with T-15)
With regard to the package itself, the is a reason that these machines come from the factory bolted to a relatively thick plywood base, enclosed in a wooden frame and then sheathed with thinner plywood: the crate is going to be jostled and dropped, and unless you use a new heavy tri-ply corrugated carton with 6" of spray foam all around you may as well sell the lathe and purchase another (larger?) one at your destination. In addition, the removable plywood "skin (with arrows identifying the screws) allows easy inspection ¨C the cardboard box & packaging will not be reassembled correctly.
Are you using a customs broker for shipping this and any household goods? They can advise you the best approach and arrange for all of the clearances.
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Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
I see your point.? My concern was with Customs inspection - but admittedly I've never shipped anything internationally.
?
We know there's not much space inside, but to someone looking at a fully-assembled lathe, between the gear cover, electronics box, motor cover and headstock, it probably looks like there's a lot of places to squirrel stuff away.? So I was thinking it'd be better for me to take it apart for them and ship it that way, then to take the chance of someone trying to figure out how to disassemble it and maybe do so with less care than I would use.
?
It's all speculation on my part.? I don't know anyone who's tried this before...
?
But I have been told by people in the destination country that it would be far easier and less expensive to ship my existing lathe into the country as a personal item than try to purchase one and have it imported.? Seems crazy to me, but that's the advise I was given.
?
Pelican and their competition sure are proud of their plastic cases.? You can get reasonably-priced knockoffs in the small sizes, but once you get to large enough to fit the lathe in, they end up costing more than I paid for my lathe back when I bought it.? Was also thinking I could build a decent container out of aluminum square tubing and sheet welded together for almost as much as the plastic boxes.
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Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
For coating metal surfaces for transport and long term-storage: MIL-C-1179C grease a.k.a Cosmoline was developed for just that purpose.
Rgds,
Gary
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Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
A good grease works best .
Some will try WD40 but comes off then rust.?
To bad you do not live close a box my mini lathe came in .?
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davesmith1800
chrisser