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--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi Mike,
In each case the drill is broken off below the surface and they are
2mm drills, so are quite small. I tried to do the Alum method
advised by an earlier reply. Unfortunately, in the UK, Alum is no
longer readily obtainable "at the local pharmacist". In fact (snip)

Yup...2mm is a little tough to work around. It reminds me though
Capt. Ken that recently I saw an article on an extremely simple EDM
that was just a vertical slide that lowered an electrode into a bowl
of water. The power was from the mains with two light bulbs on each
phase. The examples showed nice clean small cuts using wire rod with
brazed shapes as electrodes. I've surfed by other edm projects on
the net. If you'd like I'll try to look it up and scan it....It was
in Home Shop Machinist some months ago I think.

I have to confess Ken, I don't have a 7 x 12 but I've had a 7 x 10
for years. Although I'm in Canada I ordered the repair kit from
Little Machine Shop and was more than pleased. It has replacements
for all the driving gears, new driver transistors and belts and cross
slide nut. The price is so low it may be worthwhile ordering from
them and paying the shipping. I'm not aware of any similar supplier
on your side.

My preferance on the nut would be to buy a 10 x 1 mm LH tap and make
my own but then I've never had the trouble.

Give me email off line if you need the scans.

Mike

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:
Unfortunately, in the UK, Alum is no

longer readily obtainable "at the local pharmacist.

You might try a taxidermist shop or a garden shop, it has uses in
both activities. I do not know from personal knowledge if potassium
alum or aluminum sulfate give identical results. Seems to me that
both are called alum. If it will save your castings it might be
worth the time to do some web searching.

Al Day

Here it is:



Paul, Central OR


Jerry Smith wrote:

Sean, You can find a lot of info that may answer your
questions here:



Frank Hoose


--- Smurf707 <smurf707@...> wrote:

Hello I am an 18 yeard old machinist, I have about
3.5 years as a
machinist/machinist in training. I am currently
attending college
for Precision Machnining Technology. I am used to
big old lathes and
mills, but I absolutely love machining and they are
to big and bulky
for my space, I have chosen on the smaller version,
possible the
Homier 7x12 because its $299 But what is this I
hear about the
7x14 micro mark, how much is it, which would be a
better buy? Thanks

Sean



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I use brass strips from the local hobby shop. They come in 12" length, different thickness and widths. I cut them to size and form them around the jaws like a second skin. That way I don't need four hands to tighten the material in the chuck.

If you heat the brass with a propane torch until red then quench it in water, it will anneal (soften) it and it is real easy to form.

Paul, Central OR


Smurf707 wrote:

There was quite a discussion on another group awhile back. The economy minded supported the Homier 7x12. The members that had purchased the Micro-Mark 7x14 were very pleased with that lathe. It is over twice the price of the Homier at $629, so the buyer needs to determine what they want, and just how much extra features are worth. I paid $895 for a 7x14 made in Taiwan a couple of years ago. Same basic design as the Micro-Mark but better built yet than the Chinese units. If there were an American made version, it would be priced in four figures.

The Homier and Micro-Mark lathes both come out of the same factory. The Micro-Mark has a longer bed, larger motor, spindle tach, "true inch" cross slide and compound leadscrews and a cam lock tailstock. The individuals that already had a Homier or Grizzly 7x12 or a Harbor Freight 7x10 reported that they felt the Micro-Mark was better finished, out of the box. Micro-Mark carries several accessories for 7x series lathes, For Homier, you currently have to get the accessories from one of the other vendors.

Both Homier and Micro-Mark have had good reports for after sale support, especially in cases where there was damage in shipment. Homier has both online ordering with a shipping charge and traveling tool shows with no shipping charge. The traveling shows seem to have only a couple lathes at each show, and it's first come, first served. Micro-Mark has a 10% off sale every few months ( I wait for those when there is something I want from them).


Do a "Smart Search" for 03911



For spare parts or after warranty repair parts, LittleMachineShop has them, along with many accessories.



Paul, Central OR



Smurf707 wrote:

Yeh I have been checking out that www.mini-lathe.com page , very
imformative. I am on a budget so I probably will stick with the
homier, they have exact sma eones on ebay with only $50 for
shipping! I will have to check that out, Well thanks for your input
guys, and more is appriciated.

Sean


--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Paul W. Chamberlain" <pwc@c...> wrote:

There was quite a discussion on another group awhile back. The

economy

minded supported the Homier 7x12. The members that had purchased

the

Micro-Mark 7x14 were very pleased with that lathe. It is over twice

the

price of the Homier at $629, so the buyer needs to determine what

they

want, and just how much extra features are worth. I paid $895 for a

7x14

made in Taiwan a couple of years ago. Same basic design as the
Micro-Mark but better built yet than the Chinese units. If there

were an

American made version, it would be priced in four figures.

The Homier and Micro-Mark lathes both come out of the same factory.

The

Micro-Mark has a longer bed, larger motor, spindle tach, "true

inch"

cross slide and compound leadscrews and a cam lock tailstock. The
individuals that already had a Homier or Grizzly 7x12 or a Harbor
Freight 7x10 reported that they felt the Micro-Mark was better

finished,

out of the box. Micro-Mark carries several accessories for 7x

series

lathes, For Homier, you currently have to get the accessories from

one

of the other vendors.

Both Homier and Micro-Mark have had good reports for after sale

support,

especially in cases where there was damage in shipment. Homier has

both

online ordering with a shipping charge and traveling tool shows

with no

shipping charge. The traveling shows seem to have only a couple

lathes

at each show, and it's first come, first served. Micro-Mark has a

10%

off sale every few months ( I wait for those when there is

something I

want from them).


Do a "Smart Search" for 03911



For spare parts or after warranty repair parts, LittleMachineShop

has

them, along with many accessories.



Paul, Central OR

Good Morning:

Finally received the new HS assembly from Homier, and carefully
swapped out the internals from the original. After installing
the "new" hs, and squaring it to the bed, I reinstalled the chuck,
and proceeded to chuck up a 1/2" 12L14 shaft to test the assembly.
Checking the hs/ts height, showed them to be in good alignment. Took
a .010" pass off the rod without holding the end in the ts, and even
taking a short cut 2" from the hs produced a taper. Am wondering if
the bed is twisted, or if I should just scrap this unit for a new
one. If anyone else has run across this situation, I would be
interested in hearing your thoughts/comments on correcting this
problem. Best regards, Nick

Nick,
which way is it tapered, small end to the headstock or tailstock? If
your lathe is bolted down that can twist the bed and swpping parts
will not help.

Try loosening the bolts holding down the tailstock end and take
another cut. If it changes the bed was twisted by the bolts. Then
you shim it so when it is tightened down the cuts are true without a
taper.

Bob

for spare parts i ring the machine mart parts line, pay by switch and take
delivery via post. always had good service and plenty of help
DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
davidalan@...
l

It's all about the center hole: "T" means it's countersunk, "M" means
it's not.

Graciously,
Jim
Lakewood, CA
All Hail Rube Goldberg!

Smurf707 wrote:

From what I know, they are the same. Both are interchangeable with

each other pretty much, maybe 1 has a different coating?

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Brice D. Hornback" <bdh@c...> wrote:

LMS has several different types of turning tools that take the

indexable

inserts. My question is, what's the difference between these two

types of

inserts?

TCMM inserts
TCMT Inserts

Thanks,
Brice

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--

Good Afternoon, Bob:
The taper is smaller toward the headstock. The lathe is not bolted down, but is sitting on a 1 1/2" workbench that is level. Am wondering if bolting the bed down will correct this tapering situation. I have cut several 1/2" steel rods; with the tailstock locked down, and unlocked, with the same results. I am considering trying to test the alignment of the head/tail assemblies using centers and a DTI. I certainly appreciate your time, and will advise of my findings shortly.
Best regards,
Nick
Bob Sunley <rosunley@...> wrote:Nick,
which way is it tapered, small end to the headstock or tailstock? If
your lathe is bolted down that can twist the bed and swpping parts
will not help.

Try loosening the bolts holding down the tailstock end and take
another cut. If it changes the bed was twisted by the bolts. Then
you shim it so when it is tightened down the cuts are true without a
taper.

Bob


On 27 Nov 2002, at 15:23, ntdefeo wrote:

Good Morning:

Finally received the new HS assembly from Homier, and carefully
swapped out the internals from the original. After installing
the "new" hs, and squaring it to the bed, I reinstalled the chuck,
and proceeded to chuck up a 1/2" 12L14 shaft to test the assembly.
Checking the hs/ts height, showed them to be in good alignment. Took
a .010" pass off the rod without holding the end in the ts, and even
taking a short cut 2" from the hs produced a taper. Am wondering if
the bed is twisted, or if I should just scrap this unit for a new
one. If anyone else has run across this situation, I would be
interested in hearing your thoughts/comments on correcting this
problem. Best regards, Nick

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Good Afternoon, Bob:
The taper is smaller toward the headstock. The lathe is not bolted down, but is sitting on a 1 1/2" workbench that is level. Am wondering if bolting the bed down will correct this tapering situation. I have cut several 1/2" steel rods; with the tailstock locked down, and unlocked, with the same results. I am considering trying to test the alignment of the head/tail assemblies using centers and a DTI. I certainly appreciate your time, and will advise of my findings shortly.
Best regards,
Nick
Bob Sunley <rosunley@...> wrote:Nick,
which way is it tapered, small end to the headstock or tailstock? If
your lathe is bolted down that can twist the bed and swpping parts
will not help.

Try loosening the bolts holding down the tailstock end and take
another cut. If it changes the bed was twisted by the bolts. Then
you shim it so when it is tightened down the cuts are true without a
taper.

Bob


On 27 Nov 2002, at 15:23, ntdefeo wrote:

Good Morning:

Finally received the new HS assembly from Homier, and carefully
swapped out the internals from the original. After installing
the "new" hs, and squaring it to the bed, I reinstalled the chuck,
and proceeded to chuck up a 1/2" 12L14 shaft to test the assembly.
Checking the hs/ts height, showed them to be in good alignment. Took
a .010" pass off the rod without holding the end in the ts, and even
taking a short cut 2" from the hs produced a taper. Am wondering if
the bed is twisted, or if I should just scrap this unit for a new
one. If anyone else has run across this situation, I would be
interested in hearing your thoughts/comments on correcting this
problem. Best regards, Nick

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Well tonight I order one fo the homier type Lathes (7x12) off of Ebay
for $299 since I am to poor to afford anything better, I barely
scrounged up enough. lol its my only christmas present and I had to
pay half. Oh well, hope I made the right choice... I alreayd have
some toolbits and measuring equiptment that I use currently so the
bugg has Officially bit me.... did I make the right choice?

BTW, during my senior year in on of my machining classes my teacher
and a few other advanced students began building a tom thumb type
engine, it didn't really have a name. Some guy designed it, we
modified it to make it better but it has yet to be finished due to
time contraints, although most everything important is done, gas
tank, carb, and small stuff is all that is left. We also cut out own
gears which was a learning experience. Well sorry I wrote so much :)

I will get pics up when its finished, who knows how long...

Let's put it this way... you did not make a "bad" choice. All of the 7x series lathes are capable of the same work. Some just have more included features, but most of those can be added later if needed.

Even if you decide later that you did not make the "right" choice. You'll have learned enough about these smaller lathes to know what to look for later. Many owners add lathes to their shop, I'm one. It allows leaving complex setups on one while having the other(s) for one-up projects.

Also, if you ever get into toolpost grinding, you can do that on the most expendable lathe. The abrasive residue is not kind to a lathe's mating surfaces.

Paul, Central OR


Smurf707 wrote:

I chose this one manly for price, but I have some thigns in mind. I
been reading alot of the pages that people make and am amazed at the
stuff they design and build!! I actaully was planning on doing some
toolpost grinding after I make a proper holder... I figured I might
use my dremel with the flexible tool attachment, what other things
cna I sue for a grinder?

Sean

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Paul W. Chamberlain" <pwc@c...> wrote:

Let's put it this way... you did not make a "bad" choice. All of

the 7x

series lathes are capable of the same work. Some just have more

included

features, but most of those can be added later if needed.

Even if you decide later that you did not make the "right" choice.
You'll have learned enough about these smaller lathes to know what

to

look for later. Many owners add lathes to their shop, I'm one. It

allows

leaving complex setups on one while having the other(s) for one-up

projects.

Also, if you ever get into toolpost grinding, you can do that on

the

most expendable lathe. The abrasive residue is not kind to a

lathe's

mating surfaces.

Paul, Central OR


Smurf707 wrote:

Well tonight I order one fo the homier type Lathes (7x12) off of

Ebay

for $299 since I am to poor to afford anything better, I barely
scrounged up enough. lol its my only christmas present and I had

to

pay half. Oh well, hope I made the right choice... I alreayd have
some toolbits and measuring equiptment that I use currently so the
bugg has Officially bit me.... did I make the right choice?

<snip>

Sean,
I come from a different background, I am a knifemaker and a blacksmith. I use a 2 x 72 belt grinder, which is common in the knife trade. Which I built both of the ones I have. I just got my little lathe and done some neat things with it, but what I did was a refinement of things I have done in the past. I also own a mill/drill and have made jewelry, remade tools, found out what not to do with some bits.

I have to order some of the accessory items for my little lathe, because some of the things I want to do, needs another chuck or a third hand type device.

Oh, and congratulations on taking the plunge, it took me a while also.

Jerry

Thanks for replying Jerry, yeh knifemaking always intrested me,
though it was cool same with blacksmith. Do you jsut make knifes for
yourself or do you custom make them and people order or ask which
ones they would like made?

Sean

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote:

Sean,
I come from a different background, I am a knifemaker and

a

blacksmith. I use a 2 x 72 belt grinder, which is common in the

knife

trade. Which I built both of the ones I have. I just got my little

lathe

and done some neat things with it, but what I did was a refinement

of

things I have done in the past. I also own a mill/drill and have

made

jewelry, remade tools, found out what not to do with some bits.

I have to order some of the accessory items for my little

lathe,

because some of the things I want to do, needs another chuck or a

third

hand type device.

Oh, and congratulations on taking the plunge, it took me a

while also.

Jerry

At 05:16 AM 11/28/2002 +0000, you wrote:

I chose this one manly for price, but I have some thigns in mind.

I

been reading alot of the pages that people make and am amazed at

the

stuff they design and build!! I actaully was planning on doing

some

toolpost grinding after I make a proper holder... I figured I

might

use my dremel with the flexible tool attachment, what other things
cna I sue for a grinder?

Sean

Sean,
I am not going to say that anybody famous has one of my knives,
but a few firefighters do carry them as crash knives. I spend 50 to 70
percent of my time making knives. The rest is for other things..
If you want a knife, I can make it, if want order one I can make,
if you want to trade stuff for one, I can do that, if you want to trade for
the right materials I can do that. I have several prefinished blades
looking for handles around.
Now if you want to learn how to make a knife, I can let you know
the name of several good books.

Jerry