?

Might want to look at the historical changes in climate and not just over the latest cycles. The information might surprise you as the majority of changes in the cycles occure before man was even present. Current narratives are published with agendas, not facts. I am not trying to start an argument but just suggesting a little research on your own versus listening to the main stream media. Be safe.

?

Nope, that is not how it works.

?

Per NEMA, the maximum ambient temp is 40C (104F). There is a required reduction for altitude? (up to 1000m 40C, up to 2000m 30C, up to 3000m 20C). The IEC ratings are similar - also with a 40C ambient maximum.

?

Based on the motor insulation class (NEMA A,B,F,H), there are temperature limits - referred to as temperature rise based on a maximum 40C ambient (A - 105C, B - 130C, F - 155C, H - 180C)..?

?

THIS IS REALLY IMPORTANT - the maximum value listed by class has a starting point of 40C maximum. For example a Class A insulation class would allow a maximum temperature of 105C so a change of 105-40 = 65C . If ambient is higher that 40C, you still only go to 105C max, you just get less delta T. So - if ambient is 50C, you still only get to to a maximum of 105C. If ambient is 70C, you only get to 105C. AND if you are higher altitude, you have to degrade the maximum temperature because the starting point (maximum ambient) is lower. So, at 2000m, maximum ambient is 30C and you get 65C delta T so your maximum temperature is 95C.

?

You can read about it here:

On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 10:51?AM davesmith1800 via <davesmith1=[email protected]> wrote:

It is what motor companies say. There a lot goes to figuring heat transfer.?

It is only a simple way of figuring out the limits.?

Dave?

On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 09:16 AM, Chris Albertson wrote:

You can’t add temparures like that.? It is not linear.

?

Without going into the science, maybe an easy why to explain it is that the rate that heat moves depends on the difference in temperature. So as a motor changes temparture the cooling rate also changes.

?

On Jul 9, 2024, at 7:34?AM, davesmith1800 via <davesmith1=[email protected]> wrote:

Most motor are rated on any machine tool is rated for the rize in temperature.?
So if shop at 80° and motor rated 120° rize.The motor temperature is 200°
Now with today's temperature where I live is 114° plus 120° so now the motor is 234°.
The late great in winter at 70° plus 100° the motor is running at 170°.?
Now in summer the motor or electronic could give you a problem?

Most over look the problems Global warming is doing on motors and electronics in mini lathes and Mills.?

Dave?

?

?

?

--
Buffalo John

Yes Jon, it is not a good design. I am having problems reinstalling the brushes.

Possible the threaded cap got deformed, as I cannot insert the brush tab.

I made a new correctly sized stick to closer align the brushes.

On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 2:47?PM Jon Rus via <byghtn5=[email protected]> wrote:

Ralph,

In a previous photo you provided, it shows the power wire wrapped loosely(spring touching in multiple tiny points), around the brass part of the brush holder assy.

The power has to go through the spring around the brass, into the brush+spring assy, then to the armature then out the other end the same way.

All of those "loose connections" lead to heat generation.

.

A better motor design has the brush with a power wire connected directly to the carbon brush, through the middle of the spring, to a contact point directly to the power wire, leading to a much better power path, bypassing the brass tube completely, so much less heat is generated here.

The Chinese motor took a short cut in their design.

On 7/9/2024 10:45 AM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:

Mike, the brush is 7.8mm wide, 4.9mm thick and 15mm long. The problem you see is because?the stick I used for alignment

was smaller then the actual brush holder. That is why it is off.

There probably should be some clarification of terms.

The actual "brush holder" is the brass part which is removable?and probably what was intended when?

it was suggested that LMS might have them.

What I have been referring?to as the brush holder is the plastic extrusion that holds the brass brush holder.

The plastic once cooled and in the correct orientation should only move if it was heated.

I don't know how hot it gets with normal operation.

I suspect it got really hot when I was making some large hogging cuts.

I had been running the lathe for 4 hours.

In order to remove the spring held wiring I need to remove the brass brush holder.

So I would not be able to just slob on some epoxy or JB weld for reinforcement.

Hopefully I will find the time to put it all back together and try it out.

Ralph

On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 10:23?AM davesmith1800 via <davesmith1=[email protected]> wrote:

When doing a lot motor repair it hard to get the parts.?
I even took brushes and file down to fit.?

I had older motors for parts.
Getting parts has always been a problem. FYI Ebay can easier to find parts. Today if I have problem with motor I just replace the motor only because of size.?

Dave?

On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 06:48 PM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:

Here is the adjusted brush holder:

?

?

It's not straight so maybe I'll try to adjust. I'll try to get the wood closer to actual dimensions.

You can see what happened to the set screw. Also the holder is no longer set; it can slide in and out.

Possibly the brush will hold it in place.

?

Ralph

On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 9:32?PM Roy via <roylowenthal=[email protected]> wrote:

Here's more detail than you probably want about testing ball bearings;

?< >

Realistically, on these small bearings all that's needed is a visual inspection for obvious damage & checking that they rotate smoothly with thrust applied in both directions. If you decide to replace one, make sure you don't apply pressure on the outer race while pressing the inner race onto the shaft. Putting pressure across the balls damages the bearing by making little dents (brinelling) on the contact surfaces.

Roy

?

?

Attachments:

• Motor Brushes.jpg

Attachments:

• IMG_20240709_161647431.jpg
• IMG_20240709_151111183.jpg

Yes Jon, it is not a good design. I am having problems reinstalling the brushes.

Possible the threaded cap got deformed, as I cannot insert the brush tab.

I made a new correctly sized stick to closer align the brushes.

On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 2:47?PM Jon Rus via <byghtn5=[email protected]> wrote:

Ralph,

In a previous photo you provided, it shows the power wire wrapped loosely(spring touching in multiple tiny points), around the brass part of the brush holder assy.

The power has to go through the spring around the brass, into the brush+spring assy, then to the armature then out the other end the same way.

All of those "loose connections" lead to heat generation.

.

A better motor design has the brush with a power wire connected directly to the carbon brush, through the middle of the spring, to a contact point directly to the power wire, leading to a much better power path, bypassing the brass tube completely, so much less heat is generated here.

The Chinese motor took a short cut in their design.

On 7/9/2024 10:45 AM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:

Mike, the brush is 7.8mm wide, 4.9mm thick and 15mm long. The problem you see is because?the stick I used for alignment

was smaller then the actual brush holder. That is why it is off.

There probably should be some clarification of terms.

The actual "brush holder" is the brass part which is removable?and probably what was intended when?

it was suggested that LMS might have them.

What I have been referring?to as the brush holder is the plastic extrusion that holds the brass brush holder.

The plastic once cooled and in the correct orientation should only move if it was heated.

I don't know how hot it gets with normal operation.

I suspect it got really hot when I was making some large hogging cuts.

I had been running the lathe for 4 hours.

In order to remove the spring held wiring I need to remove the brass brush holder.

So I would not be able to just slob on some epoxy or JB weld for reinforcement.

Hopefully I will find the time to put it all back together and try it out.

Ralph

On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 10:23?AM davesmith1800 via <davesmith1=[email protected]> wrote:

When doing a lot motor repair it hard to get the parts.?
I even took brushes and file down to fit.?

I had older motors for parts.
Getting parts has always been a problem. FYI Ebay can easier to find parts. Today if I have problem with motor I just replace the motor only because of size.?

Dave?

On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 06:48 PM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:

Here is the adjusted brush holder:

?

?

It's not straight so maybe I'll try to adjust. I'll try to get the wood closer to actual dimensions.

You can see what happened to the set screw. Also the holder is no longer set; it can slide in and out.

Possibly the brush will hold it in place.

?

Ralph

On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 9:32?PM Roy via <roylowenthal=[email protected]> wrote:

Here's more detail than you probably want about testing ball bearings;

?< >

Realistically, on these small bearings all that's needed is a visual inspection for obvious damage & checking that they rotate smoothly with thrust applied in both directions. If you decide to replace one, make sure you don't apply pressure on the outer race while pressing the inner race onto the shaft. Putting pressure across the balls damages the bearing by making little dents (brinelling) on the contact surfaces.

Roy

?

?

Attachments:

• Motor Brushes.jpg

Attachments:

• IMG_20240709_161647431.jpg
• IMG_20240709_151111183.jpg

Mike, the brush is 7.8mm wide, 4.9mm thick and 15mm long. The problem you see is because?the stick I used for alignment

was smaller then the actual brush holder. That is why it is off.

There probably should be some clarification of terms.

The actual "brush holder" is the brass part which is removable?and probably what was intended when?

it was suggested that LMS might have them.

What I have been referring?to as the brush holder is the plastic extrusion that holds the brass brush holder.

The plastic once cooled and in the correct orientation should only move if it was heated.

I don't know how hot it gets with normal operation.

I suspect it got really hot when I was making some large hogging cuts.

I had been running the lathe for 4 hours.

In order to remove the spring held wiring I need to remove the brass brush holder.

So I would not be able to just slob on some epoxy or JB weld for reinforcement.

Hopefully I will find the time to put it all back together and try it out.

Ralph

On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 10:23?AM davesmith1800 via <davesmith1=[email protected]> wrote:

When doing a lot motor repair it hard to get the parts.?
I even took brushes and file down to fit.?

I had older motors for parts.
Getting parts has always been a problem. FYI Ebay can easier to find parts. Today if I have problem with motor I just replace the motor only because of size.?

Dave?

On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 06:48 PM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:

Here is the adjusted brush holder:

?

?

It's not straight so maybe I'll try to adjust. I'll try to get the wood closer to actual dimensions.

You can see what happened to the set screw. Also the holder is no longer set; it can slide in and out.

Possibly the brush will hold it in place.

?

Ralph

On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 9:32?PM Roy via <roylowenthal=[email protected]> wrote:

Here's more detail than you probably want about testing ball bearings;

?< >

Realistically, on these small bearings all that's needed is a visual inspection for obvious damage & checking that they rotate smoothly with thrust applied in both directions. If you decide to replace one, make sure you don't apply pressure on the outer race while pressing the inner race onto the shaft. Putting pressure across the balls damages the bearing by making little dents (brinelling) on the contact surfaces.

Roy

?

?

It's not straight so maybe I'll try to adjust. I'll try to get the wood closer to actual dimensions.

You can see what happened to the set screw. Also the holder is no longer set; it can slide in and out.

Possibly the brush will hold it in place.

...

You can’t add temparures like that. ?It is not linear.

?

Without going into the science, maybe an easy why to explain it is that the rate that heat moves depends on the difference in temperature. So as a motor changes temparture the cooling rate also changes.

?

On Jul 9, 2024, at 7:34?AM, davesmith1800 via groups.io <davesmith1@...> wrote:

Most motor are rated on any machine tool is rated for the rize in temperature.?
So if shop at 80° and motor rated 120° rize.The motor temperature is 200°
Now with today's temperature where I live is 114° plus 120° so now the motor is 234°.
The late great in winter at 70° plus 100° the motor is running at 170°.?
Now in summer the motor or electronic could give you a problem?

Most over look the problems Global warming is doing on motors and electronics in mini lathes and Mills.?

Dave?

?

Mike, the brush is 7.8mm wide, 4.9mm thick and 15mm long. The problem you see is because?the stick I used for alignment

was smaller then the actual brush holder. That is why it is off.

There probably should be some clarification of terms.

The actual "brush holder" is the brass part which is removable?and probably what was intended when?

it was suggested that LMS might have them.

What I have been referring?to as the brush holder is the plastic extrusion that holds the brass brush holder.

The plastic once cooled and in the correct orientation should only move if it was heated.

I don't know how hot it gets with normal operation.

I suspect it got really hot when I was making some large hogging cuts.

I had been running the lathe for 4 hours.

In order to remove the spring held wiring I need to remove the brass brush holder.

So I would not be able to just slob on some epoxy or JB weld for reinforcement.

Hopefully I will find the time to put it all back together and try it out.

Ralph

On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 10:23?AM davesmith1800 via <davesmith1=[email protected]> wrote:

When doing a lot motor repair it hard to get the parts.?
I even took brushes and file down to fit.?

I had older motors for parts.
Getting parts has always been a problem. FYI Ebay can easier to find parts. Today if I have problem with motor I just replace the motor only because of size.?

Dave?

On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 06:48 PM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:

Here is the adjusted brush holder:

?

?

It's not straight so maybe I'll try to adjust. I'll try to get the wood closer to actual dimensions.

You can see what happened to the set screw. Also the holder is no longer set; it can slide in and out.

Possibly the brush will hold it in place.

?

Ralph

On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 9:32?PM Roy via <roylowenthal=[email protected]> wrote:

Here's more detail than you probably want about testing ball bearings;

?< >

Realistically, on these small bearings all that's needed is a visual inspection for obvious damage & checking that they rotate smoothly with thrust applied in both directions. If you decide to replace one, make sure you don't apply pressure on the outer race while pressing the inner race onto the shaft. Putting pressure across the balls damages the bearing by making little dents (brinelling) on the contact surfaces.

Roy

?

?

On Jul 9, 2024, at 7:34?AM, davesmith1800 via groups.io <davesmith1@...> wrote:

Most motor are rated on any machine tool is rated for the rize in temperature.?
So if shop at 80° and motor rated 120° rize.The motor temperature is 200°
Now with today's temperature where I live is 114° plus 120° so now the motor is 234°.
The late great in winter at 70° plus 100° the motor is running at 170°.?
Now in summer the motor or electronic could give you a problem?

Most over look the problems Global warming is doing on motors and electronics in mini lathes and Mills.?

Dave?

?

Here is the adjusted brush holder:

?

?

It's not straight so maybe I'll try to adjust. I'll try to get the wood closer to actual dimensions.

You can see what happened to the set screw. Also the holder is no longer set; it can slide in and out.

Possibly the brush will hold it in place.

?

Ralph

On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 9:32?PM Roy via <roylowenthal=[email protected]> wrote:

Here's more detail than you probably want about testing ball bearings;

?< >

Realistically, on these small bearings all that's needed is a visual inspection for obvious damage & checking that they rotate smoothly with thrust applied in both directions. If you decide to replace one, make sure you don't apply pressure on the outer race while pressing the inner race onto the shaft. Putting pressure across the balls damages the bearing by making little dents (brinelling) on the contact surfaces.

Roy

?

?

Here is the adjusted brush holder:

?

It's not straight so maybe I'll try to adjust. I'll try to get the wood closer to actual dimensions.

You can see what happened to the set screw. Also the holder is no longer set; it can slide in and out.

Possibly the brush will hold it in place.

Ralph

On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 9:32?PM Roy via <roylowenthal=[email protected]> wrote:

Here's more detail than you probably want about testing ball bearings;

?< >

Realistically, on these small bearings all that's needed is a visual inspection for obvious damage & checking that they rotate smoothly with thrust applied in both directions. If you decide to replace one, make sure you don't apply pressure on the outer race while pressing the inner race onto the shaft. Putting pressure across the balls damages the bearing by making little dents (brinelling) on the contact surfaces.

Roy

Attachments:

• IMG_20240708_190756852.jpg