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Date

Re: Chuck Lube

 

I do not know what type the Bison is for.
The one at Amazon is for air/hydraulic chucks.?

Most uses scroll chucks and they take two types of Lubrication.? One for the bevel gear side
Jaw side takes very light oil for Chuck jaws side to move? right.?

Dave?


Re: Why I Do Single-Point Threading

 

thanks Craig .

animal

On 1/21/24 4:40 AM, Craig Hopewell via groups.io wrote:
For Mr animal

This is essentially what I have:


<>

Mine may have come from Bangood, but like much from china, the same
thing.? ?Bangood currently being blocked by my malwarebytes for
potential evil doing.
--


Chuck Lube

 

There are folks out there that make Chuck Lube





??? animal


Re: White lead for centers and chucks

Chris Albertson
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

As I wrote. ?The stuff is not ¡°oil¡±. ?It is wax is a solvent. ?Oil would attract dirt. ?The stuff I use trades off a short lifetime for being very clean. ? You can also find brands that try to be longer lasting but they are oil-based and attack dirt.

Yes, a kids bike might have some oil-based lube on the chain because oil is cheap and will last a long time. ?But more serious riders will want their drive train to literally pass a white glove test and have reduced friction and are willing to re-apply every 200 or so miles. (Every couple weeks.)

Boeshield T9 is used in aerospace and is kind of the same stuff, wax in a solvent that leaves water water-resistant coating.

My point was that I just happen to have chain lube in the garage and it is designed for exactly what I want, lube and water repellent that nothing sticks to. ? Even lite oil is sticky. ? THis is why you put wax and not oil on the painted parts of your car.

On Jan 21, 2024, at 11:17?AM, davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> wrote:

Chris Albertson
10:04am? ?
Bicycle chain lubricants works well for many things. But there are many different formulations. Most of them are designed to NOT attract dust and dirt, so grease or oil would be the worst thing to put on a bike chain. Also the chain is made of plates and pins that have very tight press-fit tolerances and you want the lubricant to get inside the chain between the pin and the plate. The kind I like is made of wax dissolved in a solvent. The solvent carries the wax into the small spaces, flushes out dirt and then evaporates completely in 24 hours leaving just the wax. This works but is short-lived and on my road bike lasts only about 150 to 200 miles or a couple weeks.
There are all kinds of chain sub, in squeeze bottles and spray n even in bulk containers. There is also a wide range of kinds, some is designed to last longer and some is designed by less of a dirt magnet. It works on tools lust like it does on a chain. Gets into small spaces and chips and dirt do not stick to it. But one thing, this is what you use whaen you are finished, because it does take time for the solvent to flash off, use it to clean up, not just before you start working.
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If I remember that oil it is very fine oil.?
It would good for chucks and tool posts.?
Any thing with a very close fit.

Dave?


Re: White lead for centers and chucks

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

??? ??? It's gettin up in the fine wine $$ range per oz , but it sure is nice when ya take something apart with on there . MY dump truck , is a 1966 GMC . The guy I got it from had no idea if he had ever done brakes in cept for right after he bought if from a county auction , that was @ 72-73 .

He used it daily for a few years & decided it was cheaper to have a guy bring a transfer or end dump they his 5-6 loads to move the same materiel . SO it spent its year's parked & if needed he would slide a water tank in the bed & use it for watering down his roads . When I to check the brakes after he gave me the truck I bet it was 6 days off & on pounding & soaking till I finally got all 4 drums off . Kroil was the last hand full of soaks that finally got them loose . I asked him why he didn't use Antiseize & he said he didn't know about it at the time . Antiseize would have made all that work unnecessary . I used open gear lube when I got my first lathe , took some time but finally I put a 5 gallon bucket oh the left side of the lathe to keep me from walkin too close & gettin that crap all over my clothes? . It is some sticky stuff . I was going to try chain saw bar oil to see how that worked , but I ended up pulling that headstock apart & I can not find a replacement thrust bearing for it .

??? animal

On 1/21/24 6:53 AM, davesmith1800 wrote:

mike allen
Jan 20? ?
? ? ? ? Just about anything is cleaner that antiseize unless ya like the tin man look
I can only think one thing worst is open gear lubrication.??

My 2 cans antiseize is happy on shelf and may age like a fine wine ??

Dave?


Re: White lead for centers and chucks

 

Chris Albertson
10:04am? ?
Bicycle chain lubricants works well for many things. But there are many different formulations. Most of them are designed to NOT attract dust and dirt, so grease or oil would be the worst thing to put on a bike chain
There are a few basics to lubrication.?
Most oil only last 2 hours it run off.
This why way lubrication it is has a additive to hold place for more that 4 hours.?
Tighter the tolerance the thiner the oil or low viscosity .?
Do not use wayoil on oil impregnated bronze. It will plug the bronze.??

Grease is use because oil will run away.

Dave?


Re: White lead for centers and chucks

 

Chris Albertson
10:04am? ?
Bicycle chain lubricants works well for many things. But there are many different formulations. Most of them are designed to NOT attract dust and dirt, so grease or oil would be the worst thing to put on a bike chain. Also the chain is made of plates and pins that have very tight press-fit tolerances and you want the lubricant to get inside the chain between the pin and the plate. The kind I like is made of wax dissolved in a solvent. The solvent carries the wax into the small spaces, flushes out dirt and then evaporates completely in 24 hours leaving just the wax. This works but is short-lived and on my road bike lasts only about 150 to 200 miles or a couple weeks.
There are all kinds of chain sub, in squeeze bottles and spray n even in bulk containers. There is also a wide range of kinds, some is designed to last longer and some is designed by less of a dirt magnet. It works on tools lust like it does on a chain. Gets into small spaces and chips and dirt do not stick to it. But one thing, this is what you use whaen you are finished, because it does take time for the solvent to flash off, use it to clean up, not just before you start working.
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previous pageView All 12 Messages In Topicnext pageprevious page#118470next page?
If I remember that oil it is very fine oil.?
It would good for chucks and tool posts.?
Any thing with a very close fit.

Dave?


Re: White lead for centers and chucks

Chris Albertson
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Bicycle chain lubricants works well for many things. ? But there are many different formulations. ?Most of them are designed to NOT attract dust and dirt, so grease or oil would be the worst thing to put on a bike chain. ?Also the chain is made of plates and pins that have very tight press-fit tolerances and you want the lubricant to get inside the chain between the pin and the plate. ? The kind I like is made of wax dissolved in a solvent. ?The solvent carries the wax into the small spaces, flushes out dirt and then evaporates completely in 24 hours leaving just the wax. ? ? This works but is short-lived and on my road bike lasts only about 150 to 200 miles or a couple weeks.

There are all kinds of chain sub, in squeeze bottles and spray n even in bulk containers. ?There is also a wide range of kinds, some is designed to last longer and some is designed by less of a dirt magnet. ?It works on tools lust like it does on a chain. ? Gets into small spaces and chips and dirt do not stick to it. ? But one thing, this is what you use whaen you are finished, because it does take time for the solvent to flash off, use it to clean up, not just before you start working.



On Jan 21, 2024, at 7:18?AM, davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> wrote:

OldToolmaker Jan 20? ?
Avoid using any oil or grease on any chuck. Keep them clean inside and out and you won¡¯t have any issues. Oil and grease attract and hold chips. Frequent cleaning is the key. One product that could be useful is WD40 dry silicone in an aerosol spray. Although I have not tried it with chucks. It works great on hinges and such so it might work

I alway lub chucks?
Some took oil others use grease.?

I do use WD-40 because of tight tolerances on small chucks.?

After lubrication of chuck I put shield down on the chuch and turn lathe on high speed for minute to remove any extra lubrication so does not get on me.?

You never want metal to metal on a new or old lathe. The lub has film between the metals keep the lathe new for long time.

Dave?


Re: White lead for centers and chucks

 
Edited

David Everett
8:43am? ?
An interesting observation.
My Pratt Burnerd Grip-Tru chuck was supplied from new with the cavity well-filled with a graphite type grease. Did they do so hoping for an early demise of their product, I wonder.
Dave
The Emerald Isle

They do that so chuck last a long time and machinist are well known avoiding any lub.?

Dave


Re: White lead for centers and chucks

 

An interesting observation.

My Pratt Burnerd Grip-Tru chuck was supplied from new with the cavity well-filled with a graphite type grease.? Did they do so hoping for an early demise of their product, I wonder.

Dave
The Emerald Isle




On Sunday, 21 January 2024 at 03:26:12 GMT, OldToolmaker via groups.io <old_toolmaker@...> wrote:


Avoid using any oil or grease on any chuck. Keep them clean inside and out and you won¡¯t have any issues. Oil and grease attract and hold chips. Frequent cleaning is the key. One product that could be useful is WD40 dry silicone in an aerosol spray. Although I have not tried it with chucks. It works great on hinges and such so it might work.


Re: White lead for centers and chucks

 

OldToolmaker Jan 20? ?
Avoid using any oil or grease on any chuck. Keep them clean inside and out and you won¡¯t have any issues. Oil and grease attract and hold chips. Frequent cleaning is the key. One product that could be useful is WD40 dry silicone in an aerosol spray. Although I have not tried it with chucks. It works great on hinges and such so it might work

I alway lub chucks?
Some took oil others use grease.?

I do use WD-40 because of tight tolerances on small chucks.?

After lubrication of chuck I put shield down on the chuch and turn lathe on high speed for minute to remove any extra lubrication so does not get on me.?

You never want metal to metal on a new or old lathe. The lub has film between the metals keep the lathe new for long time.

Dave?


Re: White lead for centers and chucks

 

mike allen
Jan 20? ?
? ? ? ? Just about anything is cleaner that antiseize unless ya like the tin man look
I can only think one thing worst is open gear lubrication.??

My 2 cans antiseize is happy on shelf and may age like a fine wine ??

Dave?


Re: Why I Do Single-Point Threading

 

I do single point threading because I do not have a tap or die.?
I use HHS because I can adjust the cutter for type steel .
Carbide is great for production work. They be quickly charged and has a nice form but have buy the carbon you need to buy for metal and thread.

The fun of single point after 15 year was gone too.?

Dave?


Re: Why I Do Single-Point Threading

 

I do single point threading because it produces a very clean and nice looking thread. That is if it is done with a nice sharp tool. I particularly like nice sharp HSS tools. Carbide is never as sharp as HSS. Carbide tools do not have an edge as sharp asHSS and also take more horsepower.
Dick


Re: Why I Do Single-Point Threading

 

For Mr animal

This is essentially what I have:



Mine may have come from Bangood, but like much from china, the same thing.? ?Bangood currently being blocked by my malwarebytes for potential evil doing.
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA


Re: White lead for centers and chucks

 

Avoid using any oil or grease on any chuck. Keep them clean inside and out and you won¡¯t have any issues. Oil and grease attract and hold chips. Frequent cleaning is the key. One product that could be useful is WD40 dry silicone in an aerosol spray. Although I have not tried it with chucks. It works great on hinges and such so it might work.


File /2) Lubrication Oil and Grease/1 sds-Insted-A-Led.pdf uploaded #file-notice

Group Notification
 

The following files and folders have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group.

By: davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...>

Description:
SDS FOR EEZ INSTED OF LEAD


Re: White lead for centers and chucks

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

??? ??? Just about anything is cleaner that antiseize unless ya like the tin man look

On 1/20/24 7:33 AM, davesmith1800 wrote:

?I first started using oil and grease later antiseize.?
I want to try white lead to see how work and found EEZ lead substitute. It work great.?
It is cleaner than antiseize too.?

Dave?

Paul Fox
6:08am? ?
It's a grease substitute?


Re: White lead for centers and chucks

 

Having messed around with molybdenum disulfide I agree that it stains the skin and is inherently very dark colored.? If that grease doesn't look very dark It may have a different kind of dry lubricant in it.? One that comes to mind is hexagonal boron nitride.? Like carbon, boron nitride can have different crystalline forms.? Diamond is hard but graphite isn't.? Cubic boron ntride (CBN) is very hard but hexagonal BN is soft enough that it's used as a dry lubricant:??,? It's white in color.


Re: White lead for centers and chucks

 

?I first started using oil and grease later antiseize.?
I want to try white lead to see how work and found EEZ lead substitute. It work great.?
It is cleaner than antiseize too.?

Dave?

Paul Fox
6:08am? ?
It's a grease substitute?