Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
? Was also thinking I could build a decent container out of aluminum square tubing and sheet welded together for almost as much as the plastic boxes.
That is the wrong approach. ?You do not need a strong-walled container. ? What is far more important is to keep the lathe from moving within the container. ? It must be 100% immobilized and not allowed to move. ?Spray foam is the best for that unless you are willing to wire-cut and laminate polyethylene foam. ? That is only justified if you have hundreds of lathes to ship so you can reuse the wire cut patterns.
Even if you built a welded steel box, the lathe would be destroyed in shipping if it were not immobilized inside the box. ? May as well use cardboard with full-thickness poly sheets on all 6 sides as it is cheap and affective.
|
Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
Yeah.? My understanding is any wood has to be specially certified/stamped.
We live in the boonies - if I can't get it at Home Depot in the nearest city, then I can't get it.
Supposedly plywood is exempt so it might be an option.? Maybe screwed into aluminum square tubing or angle at the joints where normally I'd use lumber?
"... plywood, particle board, oriented strand board or veneer that has been created using glue, heat or pressure, or a combination thereof is of sufficiently low risk and to be exempted from the provisions of the ISPM standard."
On Wednesday, December 13th, 2023 at 1:27 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
Pelican cases are like motorcycle helmets . Do ya protect a
priceless head with a $ 30.00 helmet ? I've seen Anvil cases that
have been around the world several times that have gone through
the hands of teamsters everywhere . Ya can't use wood cause of non
native species going to another country ?
animal
On 12/13/23 7:43 AM, chrisser via
groups.io wrote:
I see your point. My concern was with Customs inspection - but
admittedly I've never shipped anything internationally.
We know there's not much space inside, but to someone looking
at a fully-assembled lathe, between the gear cover, electronics
box, motor cover and headstock, it probably looks like there's a
lot of places to squirrel stuff away. So I was thinking it'd be
better for me to take it apart for them and ship it that way,
then to take the chance of someone trying to figure out how to
disassemble it and maybe do so with less care than I would use.
It's all speculation on my part. I don't know anyone who's
tried this before...
But I have been told by people in the destination country that
it would be far easier and less expensive to ship my existing
lathe into the country as a personal item than try to purchase
one and have it imported. Seems crazy to me, but that's the
advise I was given.
Pelican and their competition sure are proud of their plastic
cases. You can get reasonably-priced knockoffs in the small
sizes, but once you get to large enough to fit the lathe in,
they end up costing more than I paid for my lathe back when I
bought it. Was also thinking I could build a decent container
out of aluminum square tubing and sheet welded together for
almost as much as the plastic boxes.
|
Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
Pelican cases are like motorcycle helmets . Do ya protect a
priceless head with a $ 30.00 helmet ? I've seen Anvil cases that
have been around the world several times that have gone through
the hands of teamsters everywhere . Ya can't use wood cause of non
native species going to another country ?
animal
On 12/13/23 7:43 AM, chrisser via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I see your point.? My concern was with Customs inspection - but
admittedly I've never shipped anything internationally.
?
We know there's not much space inside, but to someone looking
at a fully-assembled lathe, between the gear cover, electronics
box, motor cover and headstock, it probably looks like there's a
lot of places to squirrel stuff away.? So I was thinking it'd be
better for me to take it apart for them and ship it that way,
then to take the chance of someone trying to figure out how to
disassemble it and maybe do so with less care than I would use.
?
It's all speculation on my part.? I don't know anyone who's
tried this before...
?
But I have been told by people in the destination country that
it would be far easier and less expensive to ship my existing
lathe into the country as a personal item than try to purchase
one and have it imported.? Seems crazy to me, but that's the
advise I was given.
?
Pelican and their competition sure are proud of their plastic
cases.? You can get reasonably-priced knockoffs in the small
sizes, but once you get to large enough to fit the lathe in,
they end up costing more than I paid for my lathe back when I
bought it.? Was also thinking I could build a decent container
out of aluminum square tubing and sheet welded together for
almost as much as the plastic boxes.
|
Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
Others have commented on preparation & rust proofing (I would steer clear of heavy greases and go with T-15)
With regard to the package itself, the is a reason that these machines come from the factory bolted to a relatively thick plywood base, enclosed in a wooden frame and then sheathed with thinner plywood: the crate is going to be jostled and dropped, and unless you use a new heavy tri-ply corrugated carton with 6" of spray foam all around you may as well sell the lathe and purchase another (larger?) one at your destination. In addition, the removable plywood "skin (with arrows identifying the screws) allows easy inspection ¨C the cardboard box & packaging will not be reassembled correctly.
Are you using a customs broker for shipping this and any household goods? They can advise you the best approach and arrange for all of the clearances.
|
Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
I see your point.? My concern was with Customs inspection - but admittedly I've never shipped anything internationally.
?
We know there's not much space inside, but to someone looking at a fully-assembled lathe, between the gear cover, electronics box, motor cover and headstock, it probably looks like there's a lot of places to squirrel stuff away.? So I was thinking it'd be better for me to take it apart for them and ship it that way, then to take the chance of someone trying to figure out how to disassemble it and maybe do so with less care than I would use.
?
It's all speculation on my part.? I don't know anyone who's tried this before...
?
But I have been told by people in the destination country that it would be far easier and less expensive to ship my existing lathe into the country as a personal item than try to purchase one and have it imported.? Seems crazy to me, but that's the advise I was given.
?
Pelican and their competition sure are proud of their plastic cases.? You can get reasonably-priced knockoffs in the small sizes, but once you get to large enough to fit the lathe in, they end up costing more than I paid for my lathe back when I bought it.? Was also thinking I could build a decent container out of aluminum square tubing and sheet welded together for almost as much as the plastic boxes.
|
Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
For coating metal surfaces for transport and long term-storage: MIL-C-1179C grease a.k.a Cosmoline was developed for just that purpose.
Rgds,
Gary
|
Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
A good grease works best .
Some will try WD40 but comes off then rust.?
To bad you do not live close a box my mini lathe came in .?
|
Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
You are over thinking the problem. ? Do not disassemble anything. ?Jst lock the parts so they don¡¯t move.
Spay the machine down with some kind of protective oil. ?WD40 is actual made for this but has a short lifespan. ?Place a XL size moisure absorber on the lathe and wrape it in a plastic bag.
Next get a large cardboard box 4¡± larger then lathe. ?Place closed cell foam packing sheet one 5 sides of box and then drop the lath in
Fill the remaining space in the box with packing material. ?The absolute best material is spary foam. ?But a garbage bag in the box and foam in the bag, then shut the box. ?The foam will expand to fill the space. ?The garbage bag will make a nice skin for the foam block and keep it from sticking to anything.
Tape the box with some bands of strapping tape in a few different direction
Yes the Pelican box is better thn cardboard but a box that size costs half as much as a mini lath.
Key points are (1) moisture absorber inside sealed plastic bag and (2) internal packing strong enough to prevent the machine from moving inside the box. and (3) full thickness dense foam sheet on all sides of box.
I have shipp MUCH larger machines. ?The biggest was a industrial-sized radial arm saw made by Rockwell (now Delta) for that we bolted the machine to a forklift pallet with four large bolts and washers. ?Then the pallet and machine were wrapped in 20+ layers of shrink wrap. ?That was it. ? The 1,000 pound machine was previously used for cutting railroad ties into landscape products. ?It made it¡¯s 3,000 mile trip just fine. ? ?That would work for a mini lathe but shipping pallets costs more then shipping a box. ?Because you can¡¯t stack pallets in a truck. ?A band saw and shaper table were shipped the same way. ?
Basically spray foam is magic. ?You can roll a box with foam packed machine down a stairway and nothing will happen
The Pelican cases are good too. ? I did a video shoot for a white water rafting company years ago. ?Me and a buddy took a load of gear down river in a canoe. ahead of the rafts. ?We tipped over the canoe in a rapid and the equipment got the washing machine treatment over rocks and white water. ? We waited for the calm water below and collected it all and set up the tripod and stuff and waited. ?Everything was packed is custom foam in the cases. ? ?But those cases cost about $1,000.
I happen to live close to the Pelican factory and have been in there a few times to. make good on their lifetime warranty., wheels and handles broke a few times but that was after serious abuse.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 13, 2023, at 6:43?AM, chrisser via groups.io <chris.kucia@...> wrote:
Hypothetically, let's say you were relocating to another country and wanted to take your 7x12 lathe with you. ?
Destination country is rather humid and prior to shipping the lathe will be in a storage unit for 6-12 months in a hot/humid state like FL
Can't use wood for packaging (well, you can, but it's complicated).? I'm assuming at least a partial disassembly would be prudent so no machined surfaces slap together. ?
How would you approach this?? How far would you disassemble both for protection and because Customs agents are going to want to inspect for contraband?? How would you deal with potential humidity issues, especially considering the packaging will likely be opened at least once? ?
I'm thinking one of those large plastic cases used for things like camera equipment with some of that kaizen foam.? Probably some dessicant packs and maybe a thin layer of grease or Balistoil on all the bare steel surfaces.? Was also thinking of keeping most of the major assemblies intact - separately pack the compound, cradle, tailstock, headstock, leadscrew, motor and electronics within the same large case.? Or would it be best to almost completely disassemble? ?
I bought mine two decades ago and I don't remember how it came from the factory.
|
Re: 7x16 Spindle to Tailstock Alignment Test Outcome
That is good to know.?
Thank you
A good deep Grove ball bearing with seals will last a long time. I do not know what mind has probably shield a sorter life than seal.
Tapered roller bearings are pain to upgrade.? They do make on tapered roller bearing that has built in seal a little easier.??
My last lathe was fully tool south bend.?
This is first mini lathe so all new to me.?
Dave?
|
Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
Hypothetically, let's say you were relocating to another country and wanted to take your 7x12 lathe with you.
?
Destination country is rather humid and prior to shipping the lathe will be in a storage unit for 6-12 months in a hot/humid state like FL
Can't use wood for packaging (well, you can, but it's complicated).? I'm assuming at least a partial disassembly would be prudent so no machined surfaces slap together.
?
How would you approach this?? How far would you disassemble both for protection and because Customs agents are going to want to inspect for contraband?? How would you deal with potential humidity issues, especially considering the packaging will likely be opened at least once?
?
I'm thinking one of those large plastic cases used for things like camera equipment with some of that kaizen foam.? Probably some dessicant packs and maybe a thin layer of grease or Balistoil on all the bare steel surfaces.? Was also thinking of keeping most of the major assemblies intact - separately pack the compound, cradle, tailstock, headstock, leadscrew, motor and electronics within the same large case.? Or would it be best to almost completely disassemble?
?
I bought mine two decades ago and I don't remember how it came from the factory.
|
Re: 7x16 Spindle to Tailstock Alignment Test Outcome
ALL mini-lathes have ball bearings on the spindle.? ?The tapered roller bearings are an upgrade.
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
|
Rudolph may had a very bad day
Remember to till the kids it is steak? . 
|
Re: Cutting oil what do you use?
Back before 1900 they used Lard?
Then they found cooking sulfur,? mineral oil and lard work great. Later they add kerosene and we still use that today.?
It also help keeps the bugs and mice away.?
Dave?
|
Re: Cutting oil what do you use?
?
thinking Low Sulfur, nice, wish they sold quarts In a message dated 12/12/2023 3:02:16 PM Pacific Standard Time, acoe@... writes:
?
?
I also use that - both on the lathe and on the drill press.
?
On Tuesday, December 12, 2023 at 10:59:56 AM PST, davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> wrote:
?
?
This what I use?
I like dark cutting oil ? but wife does not like the smell.? So this works and low cost
|
I don't watch TV , Basketball & that's it , I watch youtubes at nite . SO this is the same guy that brought us the burnisher . I've been goin through a bunch of his videos . He has a lot of pretty neato ideas , if ya have some spare time spend some time lookin at some of his vid's .
animal
|
Re: Cutting oil what do you use?
I first start with using a lot of cutting oil.
But in welding you clean off the oil before welding. So in my shop oil was band from drilling.?
When work on machine shops I used oil.
Cleaning was not my problem.?
Today I use oil very rarely on drilling as have clean up the mess?
Dave?
|
Re: Cutting oil what do you use?
I also use that - both on the lathe and on the drill press.
On Tuesday, December 12, 2023 at 10:59:56 AM PST, davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> wrote:
This what I use?
I like dark cutting oil ? but wife does not like the smell.? So this works and low cost
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1-Gal-Nu-Clear-Pipe-Threading-Oil-Low-Odor-Anti-Mist-Formulation-for-Pipe-Cutting-Dies-Threading-70835/202826988
|
Re: Cutting oil what do you use?
Either dry or with clear cutting oil.
Like using dark oil for tapping and threading steel water pipe . But my wife does not like the smell so have small can of dark for that day.
Clear work great most machine work.
A36 is where I think of using dark?
Dave
|
Re: Cutting oil what do you use?
I will pick up a jug and give it a try. When you are really desperate and what you are cutting tears the surface (soft steel or copper) try using olive oil or castor oil brushed on.? Bill in Boulder
On Tue, Dec 12, 2023 at 11:59?AM davesmith1800 < davesmith1@...> wrote: This what I use?
I like dark cutting oil ? but wife does not like the smell.? So this works and low cost
|
Cutting oil what do you use?
This what I use?
I like dark cutting oil ? but wife does not like the smell.? So this works and low cost
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1-Gal-Nu-Clear-Pipe-Threading-Oil-Low-Odor-Anti-Mist-Formulation-for-Pipe-Cutting-Dies-Threading-70835/202826988
|
chrisser
davesmith1800