Re: Another approach to indexing on a 7x14 Lathe
are you making these for sale ?
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----- Original Message -----
From: cedge11
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: 3/20/2007 2:18:52 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Another approach to indexing on a 7x14 Lathe
I recently enjoyed the thread showing one owner's approach to indexing
the spindle of a mini lathe. His method was probably a lot more
accurate than my approach since mine doesn't allow for adjustment in
minutes and seconds. This one is a bit more down an dirty, for those
of us who still have the "About" marks on our measuring devices...(grin)
You can have a peek at it at
The commercially available, predrilled indexing plate is mounted on an
homemade expandable mandrel which has an oversized taper designed to
center things against the opening edge of the lathe's outside spindle
end. The opposite end is designed to expand against the spindle
interior when the outer aluminum knob is turned, making for a solidly
centered tool position. This takes only a minor few seconds to install
or remove.
There is a fresh mounting rail on top of the gear box cover where the
hinged indexing pin assembly is mounted for easy removal. The indexing
pin assembly allows the pin to slide up or down as needed to match up
with the desired ring of holes. Pretty basic, but it's saved me hours
of time when I needed to scribe dial marks or create a radial hole
pattern for a small cylinder head.
I'll seldom need more than 60 holes in one of those, but a huge range
of numerical combinations are made quite easy by the indexing plate
and any error induction has not been noticable so far.
Just another way to get there I guess...
Steve
|
New Mini Lathe For The Newbie...
Hey folks, I've just joined the group, and I'm looking to buy a new
mini lathe for turning some R/C model engine parts... I want to make
my own head buttons, cooling jackets, carb parts, etc. for nitro
powered model race boats I play with.
I understand that many people consider the Chinese mini lathes to be
"toys", but If I can get some parts made and learn a bit at the same
time, I can always step up to higher quality unit later on.
Since I haven't yet decided on my new mini lathe, what's the best
deal/brand name going right now? Looking to spend under $500 for the
lathe itself...
Thanks in advance for your advice. :)
Duane Kennard
|
Re: homier (Lathe Stability)
As you know, Chris, they're included in your 14" bed kit - they *DO* make a
lot of difference. The stability of the lathe is greatly increased.
Rabid
Uncle Rabid ( )
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"
(Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!)
(Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without Castings!)
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----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Wood" <chrisw@...> To: <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 2:22 PM Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: homier (Lathe Stability) Here's another way to make a mini lathe a little more stable: I think these come with Grizzly mini lathes but not with others. Regards, Chris Wood LittleMachineShop.com <> The premier source of parts and accessories for mini lathes and mini mills. 396 W. Washington Blvd. #500, Pasadena, CA 91103 (800)981-9663 * Fax (626)797-7934 ________________________________ From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Jim Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 8:20 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: homier (Lathe Stability) I too struggled with my Cummins 7X12 rocking back and forth, but I wasn't quite ready to bolt it to my bench. Instead, I bought an Oak stair tread from Home Depot and bolted the lathe to that. I counterbored the holes on the underside of the stair tread just deep enough for the bolt heads to end up below the surface. I laid out the holes by using the hole pattern from the chip pan. I aligned the back of the chip pan with the back of the stair tread, so the lathe ends up offset toward the rear edge of the stair tread. I aligned the front edge of the stair tread with the edge of my workbench, and I clamped the board to the bench with a pair of cheap c-clamps, also from Home Depot. The lathe is very solid as a result, but still relatively portable. Jim born4something <ajs@... <mailto:ajs%40ecoustics.com.au> > wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@... <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com> , "markzemanek" <markzemanek@...> wrote:
and my lathe is bolted to my bench for stability.
On the subject of stability, I don't recommend the Sieg setup. My manual said it was preferred to bolt to the bench but they also supplied rubber feet and bolts for free standing. The free standing config was a rocking horse. Far too narrow a footprint on the bench. My very first mod was to install two 220mm lengths of 2"x1" box section steel as spreaders. I drilled through them to match the chip tray, then enlarged the lower holes a little bigger than the supplied screw heads. That allows the original bolts to secure the box section to the casting through the tray. I bought four new nuts and bolts to secure the supplied feet near the ends of the box section. A quick spray of aerosol zinc primer and black paint before assembly made it look original and the local rubber store even had the black plastic plugs to tap into the ends of the box section. So it all looks very original yet it's so rock solid. I'd gain nothing by bolting it to the bench. When not in use I heave the machine towards the back of the bench and reclaim the real estate. John PS: LMS stock folted spreader bars with a similar purpose. Not as rugged and I wanted instant stability - not a mail ordered wait before I could make chips. Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes. Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: homier (Lathe Stability)
Here's another way to make a mini lathe a little more stable: I think these come with Grizzly mini lathes but not with others. Regards, Chris Wood LittleMachineShop.com <> The premier source of parts and accessories for mini lathes and mini mills. 396 W. Washington Blvd. #500, Pasadena, CA 91103 (800)981-9663 * Fax (626)797-7934 ________________________________ From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Jim Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 8:20 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: homier (Lathe Stability) I too struggled with my Cummins 7X12 rocking back and forth, but I wasn't quite ready to bolt it to my bench. Instead, I bought an Oak stair tread from Home Depot and bolted the lathe to that. I counterbored the holes on the underside of the stair tread just deep enough for the bolt heads to end up below the surface. I laid out the holes by using the hole pattern from the chip pan. I aligned the back of the chip pan with the back of the stair tread, so the lathe ends up offset toward the rear edge of the stair tread. I aligned the front edge of the stair tread with the edge of my workbench, and I clamped the board to the bench with a pair of cheap c-clamps, also from Home Depot. The lathe is very solid as a result, but still relatively portable. Jim born4something <ajs@... <mailto:ajs%40ecoustics.com.au> > wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@... <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com> , "markzemanek" <markzemanek@...> wrote:
and my lathe is bolted to my bench for stability.
On the subject of stability, I don't recommend the Sieg setup. My manual said it was preferred to bolt to the bench but they also supplied rubber feet and bolts for free standing. The free standing config was a rocking horse. Far too narrow a footprint on the bench. My very first mod was to install two 220mm lengths of 2"x1" box section steel as spreaders. I drilled through them to match the chip tray, then enlarged the lower holes a little bigger than the supplied screw heads. That allows the original bolts to secure the box section to the casting through the tray. I bought four new nuts and bolts to secure the supplied feet near the ends of the box section. A quick spray of aerosol zinc primer and black paint before assembly made it look original and the local rubber store even had the black plastic plugs to tap into the ends of the box section. So it all looks very original yet it's so rock solid. I'd gain nothing by bolting it to the bench. When not in use I heave the machine towards the back of the bench and reclaim the real estate. John PS: LMS stock folted spreader bars with a similar purpose. Not as rugged and I wanted instant stability - not a mail ordered wait before I could make chips.
|
Another approach to indexing on a 7x14 Lathe
I recently enjoyed the thread showing one owner's approach to indexing
the spindle of a mini lathe. His method was probably a lot more
accurate than my approach since mine doesn't allow for adjustment in
minutes and seconds. This one is a bit more down an dirty, for those
of us who still have the "About" marks on our measuring devices...(grin)
You can have a peek at it at
The commercially available, predrilled indexing plate is mounted on an
homemade expandable mandrel which has an oversized taper designed to
center things against the opening edge of the lathe's outside spindle
end. The opposite end is designed to expand against the spindle
interior when the outer aluminum knob is turned, making for a solidly
centered tool position. This takes only a minor few seconds to install
or remove.
There is a fresh mounting rail on top of the gear box cover where the
hinged indexing pin assembly is mounted for easy removal. The indexing
pin assembly allows the pin to slide up or down as needed to match up
with the desired ring of holes. Pretty basic, but it's saved me hours
of time when I needed to scribe dial marks or create a radial hole
pattern for a small cylinder head.
I'll seldom need more than 60 holes in one of those, but a huge range
of numerical combinations are made quite easy by the indexing plate
and any error induction has not been noticable so far.
Just another way to get there I guess...
Steve
|
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Re: Stripped Gib Screw Solution??
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Herb" <hwederma@...> wrote:
I'm in the process of "lapping" in my dove tails etc and have
discovered that one of the gib screw heads are stripped out where
the allen wrench goes into it. The threads are fine, it's just that the
allen wrench just spins in it. Can I "slot" it with a small dremel
wheel so that a slotted screw driver will work on it? Or should I just order a new one? thanks, Herb W. Problem Solved !!! The problem wasn't the screw at all, it was the "Harbor Freight" "T-Handle" allen wrench itself. I was about to go the hardware store insearch of new screws when I tried a regular allen wrench instead and it fit fine. I measured the two tools with a micrometer and it turns out the Harbor Freight tool is .0016 smaller than the other allen wrench. So I'll have to use a regular allen wrench to make my gib screw adjustments from now on. Thanks all, Herb W. : )
|
There isn't much to add to the instructions at mini-lathe.com. Begin
by determining if the the gibs are straight enough to be lapped and
first unbend them as necessary. It is pretty easy to get an idea if
your gibs or surface plates are flat. Just place a decent all-steel
ruler's edge up against the surface and hold it up to the light.
0.0005" error will be very obvious.
I cannot find the original source, but someone here suggested using a
drill press as an arbor press to straighten the gibs. Support the
ends with pieces of sheet metal and press down on the centre. By
using progressively thicker pieces of sheet metal, you don't risk
over-bending or breaking the gib. I found this works well.
It's hard to lap the surface of the gibs so that they don't become
convex along their width since they're thin and hard to hold (not to
mention sharp!). I found it was very much worthwhile to make a holder
for them. I just ran a short scrap block of oak through a table saw,
with the blade set to cut about 3/32" or so depth, with an angle to
match the gib's sides, and then widened it until the gib could be
tapped into the slot. Naturally the same could easily be done with a
sharp chisel, etc. Could even superglue it to a block and release it
later with acetone.
I hope this helps. If your gibs are not straight, this will
definitely make a big difference on the machine.
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Dennis Thompson <dbt@...> wrote:
I need to lap the gibs on couple of my machines I recently
purchased, (with little time to use/clean, etc., 'till now). I've
never lapped gibs - any particular tips?
Dennis (really new at some of this)
Cummins Mini Mill, freshly unpacked
HF 7x10
Cummins 7x12
|
On the HF, the lathe guard mount itself is 3" from the chuck center. In
order to turn something larger then 6", you would need to permanently remove
it.
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On 3/20/07, MZT.Groups <mzt.groups@...> wrote:
On my lathe the safety switch connected to the chuck guard closes contacts
at about halfway. When I need to turn large pieces (18cm max, about 7")
it's
just a matter of tying it half open, using a piece of thin chain and a
nail
purposely fitted on the wall behind the lathe.
Probably, the guard could be removed simply by unscrewing the two bolts
keeping it in place, the supporting rod turned into the 'closed' position
by
hand.
Also, on my lathe, the engine can be started when the guard is fully open,
providing I'm keeping a finger on the start switch, to keep it pushed
down.
The safety circuitry only prevents me from 'normally' running the lathe
without closing the guard.
After the initial surprise, I got used to that: it's very handy when,
after
chucking a piece, I want to have a look at how well (or badly) it is
centered.
Is it a common feature on the 7x lathes?
Marcello
Hi John,
I can't say I've seen their bodge other than in photos so don't know
whether there was another better way of doing it. I'm guessing that what
they did was the cheapest way of doing it, not the best.
Is it a case that a lot of people will not do any work of a size where it
becomes a problem and how easy would it be to remove the shield and
overcome the interlock , either temporarily or permanently?
Be sure to check out for small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
On my lathe the safety switch connected to the chuck guard closes contacts
at about halfway. When I need to turn large pieces (18cm max, about 7") it's
just a matter of tying it half open, using a piece of thin chain and a nail
purposely fitted on the wall behind the lathe.
Probably, the guard could be removed simply by unscrewing the two bolts
keeping it in place, the supporting rod turned into the 'closed' position by
hand.
Also, on my lathe, the engine can be started when the guard is fully open,
providing I'm keeping a finger on the start switch, to keep it pushed down.
The safety circuitry only prevents me from 'normally' running the lathe
without closing the guard.
After the initial surprise, I got used to that: it's very handy when, after
chucking a piece, I want to have a look at how well (or badly) it is
centered.
Is it a common feature on the 7x lathes?
Marcello
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi John,
I can't say I've seen their bodge other than in photos so don't know
whether there was another better way of doing it. I'm guessing that what
they did was the cheapest way of doing it, not the best.
Is it a case that a lot of people will not do any work of a size where it
becomes a problem and how easy would it be to remove the shield and
overcome the interlock , either temporarily or permanently?
|
Re: homier (Lathe Stability)
I too struggled with my Cummins 7X12 rocking back and forth, but I wasn't quite ready to bolt it to my bench. Instead, I bought an Oak stair tread from Home Depot and bolted the lathe to that. I counterbored the holes on the underside of the stair tread just deep enough for the bolt heads to end up below the surface. I laid out the holes by using the hole pattern from the chip pan. I aligned the back of the chip pan with the back of the stair tread, so the lathe ends up offset toward the rear edge of the stair tread. I aligned the front edge of the stair tread with the edge of my workbench, and I clamped the board to the bench with a pair of cheap c-clamps, also from Home Depot. The lathe is very solid as a result, but still relatively portable. Jim born4something <ajs@...> wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "markzemanek" <markzemanek@...> wrote:
and my lathe is bolted to my bench for stability.
On the subject of stability, I don't recommend the Sieg setup. My manual said it was preferred to bolt to the bench but they also supplied rubber feet and bolts for free standing. The free standing config was a rocking horse. Far too narrow a footprint on the bench. My very first mod was to install two 220mm lengths of 2"x1" box section steel as spreaders. I drilled through them to match the chip tray, then enlarged the lower holes a little bigger than the supplied screw heads. That allows the original bolts to secure the box section to the casting through the tray. I bought four new nuts and bolts to secure the supplied feet near the ends of the box section. A quick spray of aerosol zinc primer and black paint before assembly made it look original and the local rubber store even had the black plastic plugs to tap into the ends of the box section. So it all looks very original yet it's so rock solid. I'd gain nothing by bolting it to the bench. When not in use I heave the machine towards the back of the bench and reclaim the real estate. John PS: LMS stock folted spreader bars with a similar purpose. Not as rugged and I wanted instant stability - not a mail ordered wait before I could make chips.
|
Dennis, welcome to the group. If you have not already done so take a bit of time and browse through www.mini-lathe.com (without doubt the best internet resource for the mini's there is) and littlemachineshop.com which will provide you with all the basics you need toi know. Have fun gerry leeds UK From: Dennis Thompson <dbt@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Lapping gibs...tips?
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 23:20:43 -0700
I need to lap the gibs on couple of my machines I recently
purchased, (with little time to use/clean, etc., 'till now). I've
never lapped gibs - any particular tips?
Dennis (really new at some of this)
Cummins Mini Mill, freshly unpacked
HF 7x10
Cummins 7x12
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Hi John, I can't say I've seen their bodge other than in photos so don't know whether there was another better way of doing it. I'm guessing that what they did was the cheapest way of doing it, not the best. Is it a case that a lot of people will not do any work of a size where it becomes a problem and how easy would it be to remove the shield and overcome the interlock , either temporarily or permanently? Gerry Leeds UK From: "born4something" <ajs@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: mini laths
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 10:02:58 -0000
Sorry Gerry,
I can't let 'em off that easy. They could have added a chuck guard
that retained the rated capacity of their product. I agree a chuck
guard is mainly nuisance value BUT SIEG STUFFED UP.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "gerry waclawiak"
<gerrywac@...> wrote:
It is only relatively recently that Health and Safety regulations
on both
sides of the pond have led to the fitting of the safety guard on a machine
that was never designed with it in mind and this makers "bodge" has affected
the capacity. My 3 YO machine came without and the full 7" is useable and I
dont think that the lack of a guard is an issue.
All machinery is inherently dangerous for the careless and unwary.
Gerry
Leeds UK
From: "Mike Payson" <mike@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: mini laths
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 00:58:17 -0700
I'm sure it would be easy enough to remove the chuck guard, I'm just
annoyed
that I have to in order to use the advertised capacity of the
machine. I'm
sure there is some bizarro world where the 10" part makes sense,
but there
is no way that this should be sold as a 7" swing when the only
possible way
to use it as such is to permanently disable the safety features
(granted, I
think the chuck guard just gets in the way, but that's beside the
point).
On 3/19/07, born4something <ajs@...> wrote:
Hi Mike,
And I think you'll find they will happily supply a 6 1/4" face
plate
to fit this lathe despite the fact that the guard and
associated
kill switch must be removed to use the faceplate. That's what
I was
sold to go with my 7x12.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mike Payson" <mike@>
wrote:
FYI, I bought the newest incarnation of the HF 7x10 (93212)
with
the recent
30% off coupon. It's bad enough that it is 4" shorter then
any of
the others
(& two inches shorter then advertised), but it actually only
has a
6" usable
swing. I'm not sure if it's standard to all of the 7x's now,
but
the HF adds
a chuck saftey shield that is only 3" from the center of the chuck, so
without removing it, somehow moving your work 3" or so from
the
spindle, the
largest work you can possibly turn is 6". I'm taking it back, though I
haven't yet decided whether to replace it with the Homier,
the HF
9x20
(which they will honor the 30% off for, so $560) or the Griz
G0602
10x22,
which is really more then I should spend, but a much better
(and
better
equipped) lathe.
Decisions, decisons... Any suggestions?
On 3/19/07, Ed <edo@> wrote:
I just ordered a Homier for which based on my research was
the
best
buy I could find. It costs $299 and the only accessory it
comes
with
is a fixed center.
Cummins sells the same machine but it comes with extras for
$399. For
the extra $100 you get (1) Tailstock Drill Chuck 1-13mm
(with
key, (2)
Moving Steady, (3) Fixed Steady, (4) 6 1/4" diameter Face
Plate,
(5) 5
piece cutting tool set. Bought separately, these total
$103, so
unless
you need all of them, I didn't see it as worth it.
Homier also sells an Accessory Kit for $99 (which I got
for 10%
off at
their eBay store). It includes (1) Tailstock chuck, (2)
Face
plate,
(3) Lathe dog, (4) Rolling center, (5) Knurling tool, (6)
Follow
rest,
and (7) Spindle center. I figured these would cost $128
separately, so
I thought it a better deal than the Cummins with
accessories.
Shipping for the Homier was $6 cheaper ($49 vs $55), but
what
really
swayed me to Homier was the customer service. Cummins was
real
slow to
answer emails, 3 - 4 days, and never did tell me if the
lathe
was in
stock.
I ordered the Homier on-line Friday night when I saw they
went
from
Out of Stock to Supplies Limited. I called this morning
(Monday)
to
see if they got the order and was told it was being
shipped. Got
email
with UPS tracking number this afternoon and it's scheduled
for
delivery Wednesday.
If I had the money, my first choice would have been the
MicroMark
(82710), $673 delivered. It's 2" longer, has inch lead
screws,
and a
digital speed readout.
Other options are the Grizzly (G8688) at $700 delivered
(some
think
it's worth it for the better customer service) and Harbor
Freight
(33684) which is a 7x10 (2" shorter). It's $419 but is
available
in
stores and with a 30% off coupon can be had for $293 +
sales
tax. (The
coupons come out every few months.)
Hope this helps, and let us know what you decide.
Ed
Be sure to check out for
small
mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Be sure to check out for
small mills
and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links
_________________________________________________________________
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Ian is quite right in what he says - sometimes we all need reminding just what a bargain it is and without it many many people would never get as far as owning a lathe. the same goes for a lot of other Chinese machinery such as the mini-mills and small bandsaws. Gerry Leeds UK From: "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: New member
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 09:57:35 -0000
G'day Kevin & Patrick.
WELCOME!!
The 7x12 is a good little machine for the money inspite of what some
persons imply about "Chinese" goods. Frequently the lathe does need
some improvement to get optimum performance but that is one way to
come to understand your tool. I have difficulties with those who are
critical of the lathe and denigrate things Chinese. It must be
remembered that for most of us, if it wasn't for the cost
effectiveness of the 7x12 we would not have a lathe. I watched eBay
for months and old second hand lathes of know better brands were at
least twice the delivered cost of my lathe and most likely were over
1000km away.
The 7x12 has all the features my Workshop Practice lecturer told us
to look for in a lathe, eg a prism bed, cross slide and compound
slide, back gear (well! pseudo geared headstock), reversible lead
screw, thread cutting ability, thread chasing dial, etc, etc.
The small mass of the lathe is an advantage regarding ease of
installation and mobility. Lastly the variable speed is a real asset.
Instead of labouring over cutting speed selections you just start
slow and crank up the speed until the tool smokes or the lathe
labours.
If buying a 7x12 check to see if the bed has a hardness diagram at
the tailstock end. IMHO this is important to the life of the lathe,
it may even indicate improved accuracy. There seems to be some
variation here with what the vendors are offering. Some 7x12 now seem
to have a better tailstock with a much more substantial foot. Other
features are things like ball oilers on the lead screw and saddle,
way wipers on the saddle.
Some vendors are offering test reports for each lathe showing things
like spindle run out, bed flatness etc.
Remember, it is a fun machine not a production machine; have fun.
Patrick, enjoy the magic!
Gear cutting. It is possible on a lathe by using the headstock and
change gears as an indexer and with a separately driven cutter. I
have read of people using a fixed tool in the cross slide and
traversing the saddle back and forth to cut a gear. You would need
patience. Gear cutting is really the job of a horizontal mill with an
indexing head on the table as a minimum. I have cut gears and the
mill is what I used after I turned up the blanks on a lathe.
One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Patrick" <patlamb41@...> wrote:
Hello all, I want to introduce myself. My name is Patrick I'm in
Gaithersburg MD. I joined the group to learn something about mini
machining as I'm a novice.
I have a basic knowledge machining/metal work, and good book
collection
which helps. My father was in the tool and die trade and a foreman in a
machine shop before CNC machines arrived sometime in the late 60's early
70's. He left the industry when CNC machines started making it big.
He had the chance to learn CNC, I guess he wasn't interested in it. It
was a shame because I think machining was his passion. He passed
on before I could really learn anything about machining from him.
I have made some small metal parts on a small unimat, but I need a
machine thats a little heavier and stiffer than the unimat.
I want to buy a mini lathe and would like to know what the best ala
round models would be. Most of them on the market are Chinese and some
say there decent machines. I would like to make small gears at some
point. Just one of those things I want to do. I've been reading up on
gear terminology and the math involved.
There's something magical about cutting a part out of a chunk
metal............thanks Pat L.
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Rance, to save you having to wait until Ian is up again and had his breakfast, I think he refers to a little plate riveted to the t/stock end of the bed, showing a cross-section of the bed top with the "important" surfaces highlighted in red, and labeled "Induction hardened and ground lathe bed". At least, that's what my lathe's got. Andy born4something <ajs@...> wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:
Ian,
Hardness diagram? I don't have my lathe yet (8x12) but it should be
in within the next week. What do I need to know about this? I assume
it is only useful in the purchasing decision. Is this right?
Rance
Hi Rance, I think Ian's off to bed. It's late in Oz. He mentioned this diagram the other day. It shows the areas of the bed that are hardened. You're probably right - good guide when comparing machines. Ian's doesn't seem to be a straight Sieg. He bought it from Taig in Canberra I think. Has a few differences. I'm sure Ian will clarify in the AM. John --------------------------------- Now you can scan emails quickly with a reading pane. Get the new Yahoo! Mail.
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:
Ian,
Hardness diagram? I don't have my lathe yet (8x12) but it should be
in within the next week. What do I need to know about this? I assume
it is only useful in the purchasing decision. Is this right?
Rance
Hi Rance, I think Ian's off to bed. It's late in Oz. He mentioned this diagram the other day. It shows the areas of the bed that are hardened. You're probably right - good guide when comparing machines. Ian's doesn't seem to be a straight Sieg. He bought it from Taig in Canberra I think. Has a few differences. I'm sure Ian will clarify in the AM. John
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Patrick, Welcome aboard. Although I've not been yet, you might want to check out Chesapeake Area Metalworking Club (CAMS) www.cams-club.org Washington, DC and Baltimore, Maryland. Another member in VA I meant to send this to but I forgot his name. Ed maybe? Ian, Hardness diagram? I don't have my lathe yet (8x12) but it should be in within the next week. What do I need to know about this? I assume it is only useful in the purchasing decision. Is this right? Rance --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...> wrote: . . .
If buying a 7x12 check to see if the bed has a hardness diagram at
the tailstock end. IMHO this is important to the life of the lathe,
it may even indicate improved accuracy. There seems to be some
variation here with what the vendors are offering.
. . .
One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian
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G'day John.
I guess half round files cost as much as or more than round files due
to the difficulty of makinhg that staggered cut when making two half
round files out of a round file. It would be a bastard of a job as you
could only do it once so there would be no second cuts! They couldn't
be made in batches as they would have to be done one after the other,
single file.
I think I had better close up for the night, before we start discussing
reamers.
One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@>
wrote:
You could cut a full hole and sell the half you don't need on eBay.
Hey Ian,
You sound like you'd know. Any idea why half round files cost as much
or more than full round files?
John
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Re: LMS Wood Turning Tool Rest - (Pen Turning)
Vikki, Here's some links that should keep you busy. www.leeswoodprojects.com/plans.html www.stinggroup.addr.com/projects/turn/tips/tips.html www.woodturnerscatalog.com/pdf/basic_pen_turning.pdf www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/LaminatedPenClip/LaminatedPenClip.htm www.davehylands.com/Wood-Working/Pen-Drilling-Jig Rance --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:
Vikki,
That mandrel looks too big for pens. A pen mandrel is 7mm I
believe. You'll also need specific size bushings for the mandrel too. Your pen kits are probably "American classic" or "Slimline".
I have been helping a guy teach pen turning for the last month and a half. There is a procedure for drilling the wood blank for a pen if
you want it to look right. You can use most any wood.
Rance
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@> wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <jgrounds@> wrote:
I purchased the wood rest package from LMS also. Most of the
time I
put a round bar in the tool post since it is quick and most of the
time I am just putting the final contours on the piece being worked on. Here is a photo:
In sharing that pix with a friend of mine and after looking over
the chisels Barry pointed me at, the same place had pen kits,
something of
casual interest to me.
I was just wondering if the threaded rod in the chuck was a mandrel for something like that? If not, I'll bet it would work!
Not sure how to drill out the blanks though, a three jaw chuck I don't
think would work.
Jenny gave me a couple pen kits (no wood, but I have some that
would do nicely) and I still have them in the back pocket of my
suitcase, which is sorta the motivation here :).
Thanks for stirring up the gray matter!
Take care, Vikki.
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Sorry Gerry, I can't let 'em off that easy. They could have added a chuck guard that retained the rated capacity of their product. I agree a chuck guard is mainly nuisance value BUT SIEG STUFFED UP. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "gerry waclawiak" <gerrywac@...> wrote:
It is only relatively recently that Health and Safety regulations
on both sides of the pond have led to the fitting of the safety guard on a machine that was never designed with it in mind and this makers "bodge" has affected the capacity. My 3 YO machine came without and the full 7" is useable and I dont think that the lack of a guard is an issue.
All machinery is inherently dangerous for the careless and unwary.
Gerry
Leeds UK
From: "Mike Payson" <mike@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: mini laths
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 00:58:17 -0700
I'm sure it would be easy enough to remove the chuck guard, I'm just annoyed
that I have to in order to use the advertised capacity of the
machine. I'm sure there is some bizarro world where the 10" part makes sense,
but there is no way that this should be sold as a 7" swing when the only
possible way to use it as such is to permanently disable the safety features
(granted, I think the chuck guard just gets in the way, but that's beside the
point).
On 3/19/07, born4something <ajs@...> wrote:
Hi Mike,
And I think you'll find they will happily supply a 6 1/4" face
plate to fit this lathe despite the fact that the guard and
associated kill switch must be removed to use the faceplate. That's what
I was sold to go with my 7x12.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mike Payson" <mike@>
wrote:
FYI, I bought the newest incarnation of the HF 7x10 (93212)
with the recent
30% off coupon. It's bad enough that it is 4" shorter then
any of the others
(& two inches shorter then advertised), but it actually only
has a 6" usable
swing. I'm not sure if it's standard to all of the 7x's now,
but the HF adds
a chuck saftey shield that is only 3" from the center of the chuck, so
without removing it, somehow moving your work 3" or so from
the spindle, the
largest work you can possibly turn is 6". I'm taking it back, though I
haven't yet decided whether to replace it with the Homier,
the HF 9x20
(which they will honor the 30% off for, so $560) or the Griz
G0602 10x22,
which is really more then I should spend, but a much better
(and better
equipped) lathe.
Decisions, decisons... Any suggestions?
On 3/19/07, Ed <edo@> wrote:
I just ordered a Homier for which based on my research was
the best
buy I could find. It costs $299 and the only accessory it
comes with
is a fixed center.
Cummins sells the same machine but it comes with extras for
$399. For
the extra $100 you get (1) Tailstock Drill Chuck 1-13mm
(with key, (2)
Moving Steady, (3) Fixed Steady, (4) 6 1/4" diameter Face
Plate, (5) 5
piece cutting tool set. Bought separately, these total
$103, so unless
you need all of them, I didn't see it as worth it.
Homier also sells an Accessory Kit for $99 (which I got
for 10% off at
their eBay store). It includes (1) Tailstock chuck, (2)
Face plate,
(3) Lathe dog, (4) Rolling center, (5) Knurling tool, (6)
Follow rest,
and (7) Spindle center. I figured these would cost $128
separately, so
I thought it a better deal than the Cummins with
accessories.
Shipping for the Homier was $6 cheaper ($49 vs $55), but
what really
swayed me to Homier was the customer service. Cummins was
real slow to
answer emails, 3 - 4 days, and never did tell me if the
lathe was in
stock.
I ordered the Homier on-line Friday night when I saw they
went from
Out of Stock to Supplies Limited. I called this morning
(Monday) to
see if they got the order and was told it was being
shipped. Got email
with UPS tracking number this afternoon and it's scheduled
for delivery Wednesday.
If I had the money, my first choice would have been the
MicroMark (82710), $673 delivered. It's 2" longer, has inch lead
screws, and a
digital speed readout.
Other options are the Grizzly (G8688) at $700 delivered
(some think
it's worth it for the better customer service) and Harbor
Freight (33684) which is a 7x10 (2" shorter). It's $419 but is
available in
stores and with a 30% off coupon can be had for $293 +
sales tax. (The
coupons come out every few months.)
Hope this helps, and let us know what you decide.
Ed
Be sure to check out for
small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Be sure to check out for
small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Solve the Conspiracy and win fantastic prizes.
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gerry waclawiak