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I've been having opportunity to cut a variety of materials lately, and have found that the high speed of the saw with a bi-metal blade can cut steel (low carbon or small chunks of O1), brass, and aluminum with no visible ill-effects. Also...since I haven't gotten my motor replaced or fixed or anything, and I'm still having to add weight to the saw to cut less bumpily, I used a dumbell with threaded collars and hooked it onto the hand guard. I added a 2.5# plate to it, and the blade is contacting both rear bearings now while cutting. Looks odd, but works well.

Hi, I'm posting for the first time to this group. I have a 4x6 Jet bandsaw and am so far very unimpressed. I can't get the blade to cut straight vertically no matter how much adjusting I do. Also, I can't get the blade to track well on both rollers. On the top roller, it tracks all the way on, but on the bottom it will only go on about 3/4 of the way. The tracking adjustment is interactive with the tightness adjustment, so it's a long iterative procedure to change the blade. Any clues about how to deal with these issues? Oh, and the motor burned up on it. It's still on warranty but we moved recently and I can't locate my proof of purchase. It costs more to buy a new motor from Jet than it does to buy the $199 4x6 Grizzly bandsaw. Is the Grizzly any better than the Jet? Looking forward to a discussion on this one. thanks, rex _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail

I wish to cut 1/8" strip HR, how many TPI should I use?

Hi y'all Pittsburgh boy here...yesterday I took a cruize up to Youngstown (75 miles) to wallow in the Harbor Freight Tool bargains...picked up 4" ($15) and 2 1/2" ($5) drill vises, a 55 lb anvil ($30) and they had the 4X6 for $149...so I grabbed it. Taiwan version with the cast iron bladegrabberschnitchel. As per the advice I'd seen on this and other sites, first thing I did before plugging it in was look in the gearbox. I'm not sure what they use, but it looked like 500 wt booger grease with sparklies and sand. Cleaned it out good, and found the brass drive gear was mildly effected, but not too bad. I suspect the brass gear will wear in a bit so it's probably not a bad idea to change it again in 4-500 miles. refilled with pristine 80-90. stand needs reinforced yada yada yada... I saw one nice homemade stand using 1X1 square tube (I think it was on this site), but I'm thinking of using the provided stand with some additional beefing and a built in chip catcher...either galvenized duct stuff, or possibly aluminum...but with a magnet involved to keep the chips from straying far. If steel, the whole thing would attract chips, if aluminum (slanted) the vibrations and slant would deliver them to a single collection point (or chip drain/collection bucket). The beauty of the original stand is when using the saw in the vertical position, the bed is the work seat...granted not ALL that comfy, but with some leopard skin, track lighting, slippers... I've seen some posts about blades running off ect... Here's some thoughts: Putting a straight edge across the lower pulley (fixed) shows it's cambered out a tad at the top and ...which told me to keep the blade in position it wants to "stretch" the teeth edge by nature. So, to adjust the blade, first tension it fairly well then turn the top camber adjustment for the final tension as well as provide a similar angle to the lower pully. [MUCH exaggerated], the pullies would look like this (>). The real angle is only 1-2 degrees off true vertical. The blade will not fly off and the tension is killer. The point is the final tension is achieved by the camber adjustment, not the tensioner. Just make sure the blade isn't rubbing the lip on the blade pulley. As I suggested, the angle isn't that great...just a persuasive hint. If that top pulley is leaning out at the top, the blade never will track right. Blade guide bearings: side bearings should follow blade exactly, but the single follower bearing behind the blade should just barely touch it with no cutting load. They can even spin intermittently. The point is they should offer absolutely no incentive to extend the normal blade position off the pullies...but they should be right in position for when the cutting force wants to distort the blade back into them. added down force for encouraging a cut: I read some folks hanging weights and such on the end to make the blade dig and hasten the cut...I think bungies are a better idea. A weight is fairly unforgiving, while a bungie will add the desirable encouragment yet allow some forgivness should the blade dig/stall/ or what have you. I cut some wood for a test run, but until I get a bi-metal blade I'm not tempting fate. That "Elephant" drive belt it comes with between motor and gearbox looks fairly lame...but we'll see...and that plastic pulley guard abortion is on right now, but I'm not overly optimistic about that. My initial impression is the "normal" $200 price is Ok, but for $150 you can't go wrong. Motor seems to run a little hot. Having recently picked up a 7X12 lathe and a mini-mill, I'm not OVERLY impressed with the chinese stuff, but for the money and with some creative tweaking, I think it's adequate quality at a bargain price. Thanks for the previous advice and thoughts I saw here that influenced by buying decision...unless it breaks...in which case I take back everything nice I said.

I've had my Harbor Freight 4 x 6 Band Saw about 3 wks now and have really given it a work out.I changed the gear lube today it looked like Gorilla Snot, metal chips in it, and what appeared to be sand. If a person doesn't do anything else at least get that old lube out of there.

I see we have almost 30 new members over the past week. Welcome to y'all! Feel free to say hi and introduce yourselves if you'd like. Thanks! Ryan

I just got back from picking up the saw. It was only an hour drive away. It is a "Craftsman Commercial" with the old crown logo. Color is light grey. I don't know the model num at the moment. It is not like many I've seen. The drive wheel has beveled teeth around its perimeter and is driven by a bevel gear attached to a sheave. The motor is in the base. The pivot point of the saw is coaxial with the drive sheave & gear. I'm used to seeing the saws where the motor hangs off the back and moves with the saw. I don't know if this design is better or worse. The teeth all looked good- I didn't see any chipped or missing. And he demoed it for me. At the moment it has a 3/8" blade and the guide bearings are ill- adjusted, so the blade falls off the guides. I think this saw wants a 1/2" blade. The wheels look to be about 9". I'll post pics soon. What kind of blade woudl you folks reccomend for general purpose steel cutting? And where to get? Maybe I shoudl invest in a cheap blade brazing kit and buy a roll of blade stock. I assume bi-metal is a good way to go? Thanks! 4x6 stock, for

Kragen has the Niko workbench on sale for $15. Works very well to hold the 4x6 bandsaw. Normally this workbench is $50 see http://doityourself.com/store/workbenches.htm Don Clement Running Springs, California http://www.clementfocuser.com

Does anybody know anything about this new benchtop bandsaw? Steve Barmash http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=12586&item=2523524068 &rd=1

Yesterday, I "bought myself a project", as SWMBO says. A Buffalo bandsaw for $20 at the flea market. Cast iron body, 3-speed belt drive, gearing looks good, 3/4 hp single phase Taiwan motor that actually runs, and less than 30 pounds of accumulated rust. The vise- screw is a bit tight [surface rust] but a bit of wirebrush and machine-oil will put it right. It had a $100 tag on it; as I was looking it over and wondering who would be fool enough to spend that for it, the lady-in-charge strolled over and said "Fifty bucks and it's yours!" "Well," sez I, "Why a half-off before I even say a word?" "Cuz I'm tired of looking at it and even tireder of the guy it belongs to." So, I plugged it in, already turned on, and the motor, gearing and bull wheel ran very nicely and quietly. I had already spun the idler and it had no play and it spun and spun......and spun.....and spun.....so nicely balanced I could hardly believe it. So, I turned it off and the house-circuitbreaker tripped!! "Wow," thinks I aloud, " a $50 bench-fee, plus repairs. I'll offer $20" [since at worst the cast iron and motor will serve as base-weight in my mill-drill and the matched pair of 3-step belt pulleys will find a home somewhere, as well as the worm&spur assy.] "I'll have to make a call." she replies. Two minutes later: "It's yours, big fella." Thought about it a bit on the way home, and realized that if the motor was the problem, it sould have shorted when it came ON, not when it was turned OFF. Sure enough, a $2 switch fixed it up. Now, to find a blade source, locally, I hope, LOL. Johnny (owner of a perfect pair of rose-colored glasses)

I can't find any $15 Niko Workbench at that site. Steve Barmash

Where is a good online source for bimetal blades, made to size? I have found a few, but maybe somebody has a favorite place. I need 1/2" x 60" blades for my Craftsman 101.2290. Thanks Lynn Kasdorf

I have an opportunity to pick up a Craftsman startionary horizontal band saw for $50. From his description, it sounds like roughly a 4x6 capacity. Are these craftsman saws any good? I have to think they will be at least as well made as an HF unit... I just need something for misc steel fabrication- cutting bar stock, angle iron, tubing, etc. I find my abrasive chop saw's efficiency drops radically on solid stock of 1/2" thick or more. It is great for tubing, though. I've never used a hor metal cutting band saw, so I'm hoping that I can't go too far wrong for $50.

ONLINE SAW BLADES www.countrysaw.com BOB

HI, MINE HAS A LITTLE PIECE OF METAL THAT IS ADJUSTABLE TO HIT THE SWITCH. I HAVE IT SET SO THE SAW JUST FINISHES THE CUT THEN SHUTS OFF. I HAVE A BRAND NEW ROLL OF BLADE STOCK IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED, CAN SEND PICS...BOB

I'm starting a new thread on this saw, as my original got pretty fragmented. I ordered a starrett 60" blade from MSC and it fits and runs great. Interestingly, I looked carefully for their weld, just to see how nicely they do it. I never found it! I guess they finish their welds pretty well! When I can find a good deal on blade stock I plan to braze or weld my own blades. But given the low volume of work that I expect this saw to see, this blade should last a while... Covel, eh? I know that the Craftsman lathes with model numbers starting with 101. were made by Atlas, I would have thought this was as well. re lubing the gears- I currently have grease on them, but am thinking of cleaning that off and switching to a dry moly or graphite lube that won't attract chips. Then I could clean the gear with compressed air and shoot more dry lube on periodically. Regarding the power switch- mine has a simple toggle switch, placed where one could envision it being used for auto shutoff. However, there is no evidence of this, and the moving part of the saw doesn't come close to hitting the switch. I would expect some sort of bracket that strikes the switch handle, but none is present, and no holes for one. So, I'm confused about what this saw had originally. The location of the power switch is hideously dangerous, and the only reason to place it there would be for autoshutoff, but there is no evidence that this ever existed on this saw. I plan to mount a 2nd power switch on the cabinet somewhere, and rig up an adjustable arm that will hit the switch at the end of the cut shut off the saw.

Hi, Ijust put some pics under aametalmaster in photos. #2 is the switch bracket. #1 is a mod i use to quick cut 45 degree angles, just tap the bed 3/8" and put in a bolt, put on the edge of the 45 deg line, works quick for cutting. Bob

Hi All, I'm new to this group, I also belong to the 9x20 Lathe Group. So heres my $0.02 worth: Got my hands on a bargain, Northern Industrial 3-year old and never used 4"x 6" Metal-Cutting Bandsaw at a sale ...bought it in a heartbeat. Already tore into it and added: 1) Lennox Diemaster 2 10/14 bi-metal Blade, 2) Gooseneck Work-lamp, 3) Recirculating Coolant System with gooseneck spout. This is a great little machine, dont know how this workshop functioned without one all this time. BTW I left all the dust on so that it would blend into the environment undetected by the wife (Ha, Ha, Ha). Cheers, Cletus WARNING: This electronic mail (E-mail) document may contain privileged information intended for the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this communication in error, please notify the sender immediately and subsequently destroy the document/file. Unlawful copying and/or dissemination of the information/data contained herein may be treated as copyright infringement and prosecuted as such. Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.

Hi All, Here's some useful data on the Lenox Diemaster 2 Bandsaw Blades that I've come across. This blade really works well for me ...what a difference to the "el-cheapo" blade that came with the bandsaw. Features Bi-metal construction, M-42 super high speed steel cutting edge, tooth hardness Rc 66-69, edge contains 8% cobalt, high strength spring steel back. Advantages up to 10 times longer life than carbon steel blades on all materials cuts twice as fast as carbon steel blades longer life in contour cutting operations allows for easier internal contour cutting good fatigue resistance Cutting Recommendations General cutting on all machines using narrow width blades up to 1/2" wide. Internal contour cutting. Perfect for cutting all materials, including stainless, tool steels and other alloys which carbon steel blades are unable to cut efficiently. Check out this site for some further info: http://www.kendeco.com/american.html#diemaster Cheers, Cletus 9Z4CLB WARNING: This electronic mail (E-mail) document may contain privileged information intended for the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this communication in error, please notify the sender immediately and subsequently destroy the document/file. Unlawful copying and/or dissemination of the information/data contained herein may be treated as copyright infringement and prosecuted as such. Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.

I have a 4x6 Rong fu and the lower wheel has a piece missing from where you tighten the set screw. not sure if they are reasonably priced or if other brand are interchangeable or can the material be welded, seem like cast material. Anyone dealt with this problem?? +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Ed ke6bnl@... ( 1950 f1 & 1963econo pu Agua Dulce Ca. 91390 70 chevy S/B) 1948 Ford F3 So. Calif. 70 mil N.Eof Los Angeles 1953 Chevy pu 3100) +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!