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I just got back from picking up the saw. It was only an hour drive
away. It is a "Craftsman Commercial" with the old crown logo. Color
is light grey. I don't know the model num at the moment.

It is not like many I've seen. The drive wheel has beveled teeth
around its perimeter and is driven by a bevel gear attached to a
sheave. The motor is in the base. The pivot point of the saw is
coaxial with the drive sheave & gear. I'm used to seeing the saws
where the motor hangs off the back and moves with the saw. I don't
know if this design is better or worse.

The teeth all looked good- I didn't see any chipped or missing. And
he demoed it for me.

At the moment it has a 3/8" blade and the guide bearings are ill-
adjusted, so the blade falls off the guides. I think this saw wants a
1/2" blade. The wheels look to be about 9".

I'll post pics soon.

What kind of blade woudl you folks reccomend for general purpose
steel cutting? And where to get? Maybe I shoudl invest in a cheap
blade brazing kit and buy a roll of blade stock. I assume bi-metal is
a good way to go?

Thanks!
--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "lkasdorf" <lkasdorf@s...> wrote:

I have an opportunity to pick up a Craftsman startionary horizontal
band saw for $50. From his description, it sounds like roughly a

4x6

capacity.

Are these craftsman saws any good? I have to think they will be at
least as well made as an HF unit...

I just need something for misc steel fabrication- cutting bar

stock,

angle iron, tubing, etc. I find my abrasive chop saw's efficiency
drops radically on solid stock of 1/2" thick or more. It is great

for

tubing, though.

I've never used a hor metal cutting band saw, so I'm hoping that I
can't go too far wrong for $50.

Glad you got it without having to pay shipping. Scroll down for my comments

Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: greetings! Craftsman 4x6 for $50...I got it!

I just got back from picking up the saw. It was only an hour drive
away. It is a "Craftsman Commercial" with the old crown logo. Color
is light grey. I don't know the model num at the moment.

It is not like many I've seen. The drive wheel has beveled teeth
around its perimeter and is driven by a bevel gear attached to a
sheave. The motor is in the base. The pivot point of the saw is
coaxial with the drive sheave & gear. I'm used to seeing the saws
where the motor hangs off the back and moves with the saw. I don't
know if this design is better or worse.

Would like to see pics, probably an OK machine

At the moment it has a 3/8" blade and the guide bearings are ill-
adjusted, so the blade falls off the guides. I think this saw wants a
1/2" blade. The wheels look to be about 9".

The 1/2" is probably correct??? do you know the length it takes?

I'll post pics soon.

Would love to see them

What kind of blade woudl you folks reccomend for general purpose
steel cutting? And where to get? Maybe I shoudl invest in a cheap
blade brazing kit and buy a roll of blade stock. I assume bi-metal is
a good way to go?

I would like to find a cheap blade welder/brazer the only rig I have seen
costs 150.00


I would say a bi-metal with 10-12 TPI, I am told the 6 TPI is good also,
but I never have used one
I do have various TPI blades however, but mostly use the 10 TPI

Clint

Thanks!
--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "lkasdorf" <lkasdorf@s...> wrote:

I have an opportunity to pick up a Craftsman startionary horizontal
band saw for $50. From his description, it sounds like roughly a

4x6

What kind of blade woudl you folks reccomend for general purpose
steel cutting? And where to get? Maybe I shoudl invest in a cheap
blade brazing kit and buy a roll of blade stock. I assume bi-metal is
a good way to go?

Inexperienced metalworker, experienced blade-breaker.

The generic words of wisdom I have amount to two items.

1. As universally advised, locate use bi-metal blades.

2. Pay close attention to the "3 teeth in the work" rule. That is, a
coarse tooth blade should not be used to cut thin wall tubing or
angle-iron on edge.

OTOH, a fine tooth blade is more likely to clog up, particularly when
cutting Aluminum.

So expect to buy at least two blades. I use an 18 TPI as my fine blade
( even though that's often not fine enough, that's as fine as I can find
and have had no problems so far ) and an 8-14 (IIRC) for my "coarse"
tooth blade.


Alan

--
Alan Rothenbush | The Spartans do not ask the number of the
Academic Computing Services | enemy, only where they are.
Simon Fraser University |
Burnaby, B.C., Canada | Agix of Sparta

I would like to find a cheap blade welder/brazer the only rig I

have seen

costs 150.00

Here is a jig that Rockler sells for $30:


Also, here is a page I found about brazing blades. You just need a
suitable jig to align and hold the blades.



This fellow doesn't bother with silver solder- he just brazes them
together and has no problems.

The butt-welder can be had for $150, as you mention. The one I saw
uses a car battery.

LK