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I have an opportunity to pick up a Craftsman startionary horizontal
band saw for $50. From his description, it sounds like roughly a 4x6
capacity.

Are these craftsman saws any good? I have to think they will be at
least as well made as an HF unit...

I just need something for misc steel fabrication- cutting bar stock,
angle iron, tubing, etc. I find my abrasive chop saw's efficiency
drops radically on solid stock of 1/2" thick or more. It is great for
tubing, though.

I've never used a hor metal cutting band saw, so I'm hoping that I
can't go too far wrong for $50.

DO you have a model number? This would help in identifing the machine.
WALT

I would say it would at least the same quality, I would not be afraid to buy
it for 50.00 as long as the worm gears are not stripped! This would all
depend on how much it will cost to get it shipped to you, some on ebay are
charging 112.00 for shipping them!
If shipping is very much, you can get a new HF for 149.00 at their stores

Clint

It is a 101.2290. I think this means it was made by Atlas for Sears.

The weak link in this design, as I see it, is that the drive gearing
is exposed, and just begging for chips to lodge in the teeth!

At the moment, it has a problem where at one part of the rotation of
the drive wheel, the gearing feels rough. When running, you hear a
groan sound once per revolution. I have greased the gears and oiled
everything I can see. I think it is possible that the drive wheel is
a little warped. The roughness is what you feel when gears are too
close- the teeth penetrate too far. It is possible that a chip is
lodged in a tooth somewhere also, although i did clean the teeth
pretty well. I'm sure a chip could embed itself in the ding-dang
Zamak metal..

I'm trying to figure out a way to slightly move the small drive gear
outboard slightly, thus providing a bit more clearance. I've not
found a way to do this yet.

Other than this design peculiarity, it is an extremely well made saw.
Everything is cast iron. There is a very nice precision hydraulic
lowering control that works great. All the knobs and hardware are top
notch.

If I can get these gears to run quietly, I think it will be a good
saw, but I'll have to be careful to blow chips out of the gearing
ffrequently. I'm thinking of using a dry gear lube like dry moly
spray, or graphite, rather than chip-attracting grease.

Thanks
Lynn Kasdorf


--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "walter warren" <1erful@m...>
wrote:

DO you have a model number? This would help in identifing the

machine.

WALT


----- Original Message -----
From: "lkasdorf" <lkasdorf@s...>
To: <4x6bandsaw@...>
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2003 7:25 AM
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] greetings! Craftsman 4x6 for $50...any good?

I have an opportunity to pick up a Craftsman startionary

horizontal

band saw for $50. From his description, it sounds like roughly a

4x6

capacity.

Are these craftsman saws any good? I have to think they will be at
least as well made as an HF unit...

I just need something for misc steel fabrication- cutting bar

stock,

angle iron, tubing, etc. I find my abrasive chop saw's efficiency
drops radically on solid stock of 1/2" thick or more. It is great

for

tubing, though.

I've never used a hor metal cutting band saw, so I'm hoping that I
can't go too far wrong for $50.



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@...



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The "Craftsman Commercial" was a line of tools that Sears marketed for
awhile. They were supposed to be a heavier duty tool that was priced down
near the "Home Duty" by leaving out some of the "Glitter" such as more
polished parts and other "Eye Candy" that didn't contribute to the longer
life and strength of the tool. I was buying tools during that time and many
of mine are the "Craftsman Commercial" line. For an example one of my tools
has the more expensive roller bearings in place of bushings but the aluminum
castings have a brushed finish as compared to the polished finish on the
lesser tool.
It sounds to me that tou have a very soundly designed saw and with a little
work you will be able to identify the weaker points and cure what needs to
be cured and keep an eye on the others.
As for blades, I would go to a good saw shop had have them make your blades.
I was thinking of getting a fixture and making my own blades but when I went
to one of my local saw shops I found that the pay back time was so far in
the future that it would have been a waste of time and money. I agree that
the bi-metal blades are the way to go.
WALT WARREN

Hi,

In reference to your saw, I had researched it earlier.

It was built for Sears by Covel I believe. If you compare the bandsaw
to the Covel power hacksaw that Sears sold, you will see several
common parts between the saws.

Next the good news...

If you input the model number in the Sears parts database, you will
get a diagram and parts breakdown.

Especially nice to have if you are like me and will tear the machine
down to paint, lube and do whatever rebuilding is necessary. Ever
notice how you end up with some extra parts when you put something
back together...yeah, so do I. ;<)

Constructionwise it is as you have noted, well built. Covel did a
nice job of designing their products (they are long gone as a
company).

Now the bad news....

Most of those lovely parts that Sears shows are not available
anymore. The ones that do exist are priced well above what you will
deem sane. This raises the point that you want to treat the saw with
loving care or you will soon have a $50 paperweight.

I seem to remember that the saw blade is not a typical length that
you find these days. This means is that you get to learn the fine art
of welding blades.

As you have noted, the drive system is different from the Asian saws
that we all see. Bearing that no parts are available or are extremely
expensive, it would be prudent to keep those gears well lubed since
that will be the point of highest wear.

Good luck with the saw, I think you will find it an useful addition
to your growing tool collection.

Too_Many_Tools


--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., 1erful@m... wrote:

The "Craftsman Commercial" was a line of tools that Sears marketed

for

awhile. They were supposed to be a heavier duty tool that was

priced down

near the "Home Duty" by leaving out some of the "Glitter" such as

more

polished parts and other "Eye Candy" that didn't contribute to the

longer

life and strength of the tool. I was buying tools during that time

and many

of mine are the "Craftsman Commercial" line. For an example one of

my tools

has the more expensive roller bearings in place of bushings but the

aluminum

castings have a brushed finish as compared to the polished finish

on the

lesser tool.
It sounds to me that tou have a very soundly designed saw and with

a little

work you will be able to identify the weaker points and cure what

needs to

be cured and keep an eye on the others.
As for blades, I would go to a good saw shop had have them make

your blades.

I was thinking of getting a fixture and making my own blades but

when I went

to one of my local saw shops I found that the pay back time was so

far in

the future that it would have been a waste of time and money. I

agree that

the bi-metal blades are the way to go.
WALT WARREN


----- Original Message -----
Wrom: DULHPQQWOYIYZUNNYCGPKYLEJGDGVCJVTL
To: <4x6bandsaw@...>
Sent: Friday, April 18, 2003 6:59 AM
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: greetings! Craftsman 4x6 for $50...any

good?

It is a 101.2290. I think this means it was made by Atlas for

Sears.

The weak link in this design, as I see it, is that the drive

gearing

is exposed, and just begging for chips to lodge in the teeth!

At the moment, it has a problem where at one part of the rotation

of

the drive wheel, the gearing feels rough. When running, you hear a
groan sound once per revolution. I have greased the gears and

oiled

everything I can see. I think it is possible that the drive wheel

is

a little warped. The roughness is what you feel when gears are too
close- the teeth penetrate too far. It is possible that a chip is
lodged in a tooth somewhere also, although i did clean the teeth
pretty well. I'm sure a chip could embed itself in the ding-dang
Zamak metal..

I'm trying to figure out a way to slightly move the small drive

gear

outboard slightly, thus providing a bit more clearance. I've not
found a way to do this yet.

Other than this design peculiarity, it is an extremely well made

saw.

Everything is cast iron. There is a very nice precision hydraulic
lowering control that works great. All the knobs and hardware are

top

notch.

If I can get these gears to run quietly, I think it will be a good
saw, but I'll have to be careful to blow chips out of the gearing
ffrequently. I'm thinking of using a dry gear lube like dry moly
spray, or graphite, rather than chip-attracting grease.

Thanks
Lynn Kasdorf


--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "walter warren" <1erful@m...>
wrote:

DO you have a model number? This would help in identifing the

machine.

WALT


----- Original Message -----
Wrom: BXFGGMEPYOQKEDOTWFAOBUZXUW
To: <4x6bandsaw@...>
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2003 7:25 AM
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] greetings! Craftsman 4x6 for $50...any

good?

I have an opportunity to pick up a Craftsman startionary

horizontal

band saw for $50. From his description, it sounds like

roughly a

4x6

capacity.

Are these craftsman saws any good? I have to think they will

be at

least as well made as an HF unit...

I just need something for misc steel fabrication- cutting bar

stock,

angle iron, tubing, etc. I find my abrasive chop saw's

efficiency

drops radically on solid stock of 1/2" thick or more. It is

great

for

tubing, though.

I've never used a hor metal cutting band saw, so I'm hoping

that I

can't go too far wrong for $50.



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

J&L will weld any length of blade. I had to get blades for my version
of the 4x6 custom made. It was pricy ($17/blade, mininum $50 order)
when I did it (this was about 5 years ago), but I still have the 3
blades.

Graciously,
Jim
Lakewood, CA
All Hail Rube Goldberg!

too_many_tools wrote:

Hi,

<snip>

I seem to remember that the saw blade is not a typical length that
you find these days. This means is that you get to learn the fine art
of welding blades.