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I thought I had a Harbor freight band saw for the past couple of years and when the blade bearings went bad I called them to get some new one. When I went to get the model number I discovered I had a Rung Fu 115. I believe they are nearly identical. The bearings I need are number 6000 which are metric 10mm ID x 26mm OD and 8mm thick. I have priced them from about $5.00 to $13.00 each at bearing supply places. The ones sold by HF are about $1.32. Does anyone know the exact size of the Harbor freight one so I could order theres if they match up and there part number. HF was unable to give me any dimensions and said they have a choice of two different ones. Thanks for the information Ed ke6bnl The band saw was given to me is the reason I was not sure on the brand. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ + Ed ke6bnl@... ( 1950 f1 & 1963econo pu + + from Agua Dulce Ca. 70 chevy S/B) + + 70 miles No. East of Los Angeles + +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.

Slight perturbation from the weld in the blade? Cyclic features in the pulleys? I've seen it, too, never worried 'cuz it's a rough cut anyway. Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg!

I've got to cut a 3/8" thick slice of a 5" dia. Al round that is 2- 5/8" long. It looks like I can hold this round in my vise and make the cut without any jigs or work-arounds. The saw frame will bottom out on the round with a 1/4", if that, of Al left to cut. It's surprising that you needed to jury rig something to cut a 4.5" dia.x 4" round with the standard vise. Do the vises vary that much? My bandsaw is a 12 year old Enco that is original except for the motor bearings and gear oil. The stationary jaw on this vise is 2-5/8" high, while the movable jaw is 2-9/16" high. My round is about 3/8" short of extending to the center of the vise screw, so I might have to put a 5" spacer at the other end of the movable jaw to keep things firmly in place.

Hi, this is my first post. I have ordered my self a saw from HF and are waiting for it to be delivered. Any hints or tips for this saw? Ray

Hey fellows, I go to a scrap yard and look through there scrap, I came across a 4X6 band saw, it has a Craftsman tag on it, a lot better quality that the one that I have, got it for $ 20.00, and its got a real 3/4 HP motor, I will send a pic. next week, you all look to there are there, happying digging, Joe Guidry.

They had to toss it for some reason. Curious what you find out about it. Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg!

snedi, I have used WD40, LPS,kerosine, I have mine set up with a pump, a large canister fuel filter, settleing bowl before the filter, using the karosine now, I am about ready to take all that off, I find it to messy, Joe Guidry be

Hey fellows I will post a pic of the chip pan that come with the saw that I got form the scrap your, would be neat to build for these new ones, there is a lot more quality in this old saw that the one I have now.

Does any one on this list use cutting fluid when cutting steel with your bandsaw? If so, what do you use, or recommend for it? I'll be cutting some bar stock soon and was curious what folks were doing when they cut it. Thanks.

Hello All, I just got a Grizzly G5113 blade for my HF 4X6. Does a Bi-metal blade look any different than the stock blade? Are these Grizzly ones a quality product? Thanks, Barry

Little Machine Shop (www.littlemachineshop.com) has a nice page on selecting bandsaw blades for different purposes. Check it out here: http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Info/bandsaw.php They also happen to sell some blades, too.

I have a 4 X 6 Taiwan bandsaw Ohio-Forge and the larger of the two worm gears is shot. Anyone know of a source for parts ? Herman

Plastic gearbox cover - that's a novel idea. Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg!

I know that this has probably been beaten to death earlier, but has anyone rigged the Harbor Freight coolant system http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45333 up to one of our saws? I'm looking at doing a lot of steel cutting, and it struck me as a good choice.

Here's some info from the usenet archives of rec.crafts.metalworking on our beloved 4x6 bandsaws. Dunno if any of you all have read this, but it's good info anyways. http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF- 8&threadm=6a5p28%246te11%40hpcc883.corp.hp.com&rnum=6&prev=/groups% 3Fq%3D4x6%2Bbandsaw%2Bblades%2Bgroup%253Arec.crafts.metalworking%26hl% 3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8 Gack that's an awful looking link. If that doesn't come through, go to groups.google.com. From there, get to rec.crafts.metalworking (click through rec., then to rec.crafts., then to rec.crafts.metalworking) and search for "4x6 bandsaw lessons". There should be two results, the first one being the appropriate thread.

One of the previous messages I posted had a link to an article that mentioned two things I don't always hear about. One is blade tension, the other is blade selection. I didn't know anything about metalworking till recently, and still know less than most. So you can ignore me if you want here :) In any case, I too was wondering about the blade tension since the manual says to get some really large number for it. The article said that to get to the appropriate range, he had to crank the tension gauge as hard as he could go, with a shop rag, in order to come close. that's pretty hard. I wasn't sure about that, and I'll have to ensure that it's done from now on and see what happens. Second, was blade selection. I think most of us have a Bi-metal blade of some type on our saws by now. If not, btw, get at least one. I don't know what kind of tpi blades you normally get, but I just got the 10/14 one. After reading more about bandsaws tonight, I definantely am going to get a 6tpi bi-metal blade for cutting anything over 1/2". This is the smallest tpi bi-metal blade I can find in our size. Hope I'm not boring you all off with my drivel :) I'll quit for the night now.

Ok, I searched on groups.google.com for some tips on this and found there's no single good answer for a home-use cutting oil. There were a few things that stood out: Don't use an oil with sulfur. Apparently a lot of tapping fluids have high sulfur content. can cause long term problems, etc. When cutting steel, using oil is almost always better than not. If you have add water, add distilled water instead of tap. less mystery components get in there. Here's some names that got mentioned for usable cutting oils. Tapmatic "Natural" and "Do Drill" @ brownell's both got a thumbs up for home use, albiet in relation to milling. Lenox Band-Ade was mentioned by someone who'd built a coolant setup into the stand he made for his bandsaw. (see: http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF- 8&threadm=76g9g0%241kf%241%40brokaw.wa.com&rnum=1&prev=/groups%3Fhl% 3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8%26q%3Dbandsaw%2Bhome%2Bcutting% 2Boil%2Bgroup%253Arec.crafts.metalworking Post #14 by Ken Mayer) hope that URL works... A number of home-brew solutions were also listed, including a half anti-freeze, half water mix. #1 machine oil also made the list, as well as cheap hydraulic oil cut 1:1 with mineral oil. Lastly, someone mentioned candle, carnuba, or other paste wax as a decent lube (albiet not oil). Apply to blade every few passes. I've done this with aluminum, and it works ok. Heat of the blade makes the wax just soft enough to rub on easily. Never timed the cut, though, or done this with steel. In short, as with many things in my hobbies, there are about 648 ways to do something, two of which are wrong, and the rest could all be right, depending. If anyone out there wants to add to this, please...I'll welcome any advice you can send.

Hey Guys! A word of caution... Ours saws will shut off after the cut is over, so we can go about our business. Whoa! that's what I thought! I was cutting a 1" x 4" bar of aluminum. (i don't know the alloy number) I was using a 14 tpi, bi-metal blade at the middle speed, and almost full tension on the spring adjustment. I was cutting dry. Lucky for me, I was close by. The saw started making a different noise, and I checked on it. When the welded spot on the blade passed the stock, the different noise would occur. Next the blade started stalling and the motor made a clicking noise (the start switch would open and close). I shut the saw off. If I had not, the motor would most likely would have gone up in smoke! I started the saw up again and lubricated the blade with paraffin. I had no more stalling, even with another complete cut. Hope this helps, Leo (in pearland, home of lots of fig trees)

Interesting - both of you are describing (I believe) white paraffin vs. the yellow, beeswax-based cutting lubes. Have either of you tried both, i.e., compared them, or just used it 'cuz it's handy? (BTW: the large toilet-to-floor donut washers are beeswax). Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! 4x6bandsaw@... wrote: ___________________________________________________________

This was posted on the 7x10 site: joeford45 wrote: -- Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg!