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Parrafin vs. Beeswax
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Jim E.
Interesting - both of you are describing (I believe) white paraffin vs.
the yellow, beeswax-based cutting lubes. Have either of you tried both, i.e., compared them, or just used it 'cuz it's handy? (BTW: the large toilet-to-floor donut washers are beeswax). Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! 4x6bandsaw@... wrote: ___________________________________________________________ Message: 5 |
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sned1
If trying to keep a somewhat decent shop and not making a mess, i
thought I should look into the stick-type lubricants instead of cutting fluids. So, has anyone ever used any of the following when cutting? Harbor Freight has "TapStick" (rhymes with chapstick, i suppose), $2.99 for .5oz. LPS/Tapmatic Edge Lube (13 oz stick), $9.95@KBC Tools "Cut-Ease", also from KBC (1# stick), $8.25 If I ever get a job again, I might do a test comparing these three, a $.99 candle, and a toilet donut for fun. :) I'm voting for the donut, of course. Thanks! |
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The paraffin wax that I use, is a product called Gulfwax, a household
paraffin wax. I used it because it was my wife had it in the pantry and it is in convenient blocks. At normal room temperature, it is a solid. Toilet base seals are viscous at room temperatures. It would be pretty messy and difficult to handle. Normal bee's wax is solid at room temperatures. The beauty (in my humble opinion) is that paraffin is easy to handle, melts because of the friction of rubbing against the moving blade, and then solidifies when the cutting is over. (easy clean up) The precaution of avoiding hands close to the moving blade is most important. i.e. Don't use a small piece of material! Allow lots of space between you and the moving blade! A candle has a wick that could catch on the blade with nasty results! Discard small remnants of the wax. (or you could collect them and melt and mold them into lube-sticks) 8-) Leo (excuse the soap box-ing) |
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Jim E.
Leo:
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Thanks for your input. I'll try some, using (carefully) an old storm candle. (Thought you were going to wax on there, for a moment). Do you find, though, that wax tends to take the cuttings back into the pulleys, where as dry or liquids deposit them just past the cutting area? That worries me, but I guess if it were a true problem wax-based lubes wouldn't exist, right? Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 10:08:47 -0500 (CDT) |
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Jim,
Got a chance to open my saw today... and yes, there were a lot of chips on and around the wheels. I don't know if these will effect the operation of the saw. Seems that I had these chips with other lubes, but don't remember if the amount was less or the same. It would be nice if we could cut every thing without lube! 8-) Leo (in sunny pearland) |
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Jim E.
Many do cut dry. I'm' 50-50: if it's a "large" piece, I'll lube with
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wax, else I'll let it go as is. I'd love to have a mess-less drip system, but the setup would probably be too much for my meager usage. Frankly, I don't know what wax really does - it lubes, granted, but to me it's not a good coolant not is it good for chip evacuation (I've seen 'em come back around and stack up, wax 'n all, at the beginning of the cut). Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! Subject: Re: Re: Parrafin vs. Beeswax |
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