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Hi Len Your hydrauic downfeed has no effect on the derailing of the blade, that's from some other fault. Hydraulic downfeed gives a much more stable cutting action which makes the blade is less likely

I can cut with almost full head pressure on anything larger than about 2" wide. I had a few issues when I bought the saw but have not had issues for over a yeah. Maybe you probably have some blade

My Grizzly 5" x 6" came with a hydraulic feed cylinder, and having one, was one of the reasons I bought the Grizzly rather than other brands. I've run many larger saws, and most all had feed cylinders

Great job, and congratulations on being able to use your inventory, especially after such a long time! John Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS

I have a needle valve as well. I can fine tune the drop speed with no problem. It's just that in order to keep the blade on, I have to set it VERY slow.

I believe it is a very good idea, that's why it's utilized on every horizontal saw that is more sophisticated than the 4x6. What you are encountering is the ability to allow down-feed pressure beyond

I did the hydraulic feed mod to my saw years ago I now I’m not sure it was a good idea. The problem is that hydraulic feed controls the rate of descent, but not the pressure. I seem to throw the

So, even allowing for the fault which I found with the misalignment of the pivot, I was still able to get the saw cutting square. 75mm SHS is about the largest I am cutting, aside from various flat

So ,finished setting up my saw today.? Spent a few hours fiddling with it and bugger me, it is cutting perfectly. Happy days!

On Thu, Nov 28, 2024 at 07:53 AM, Old Boilermaker wrote: > > Has anyone attempted to file or grind the base to bring it square to the > blade over the full range of vertical travel? You can't adjust

Hi This question is kinds topical, as a few days ago I was looking at the article and noticed a few errors in it, so revised it as attached. Will change in the Files section too -

There is a pdf file in the files section of this group written by John Vreede that goes into great detail on a fix for this.

Following Rick Sparber's ideas, https://rick.sparber.org/HorizontalBandsawAlignment.pdf it's way easier to make a sine bar to correct the angle of the bed of the vise area rather than milling, filing,

What did you mean by "square to the base" ? Did you mean parallel with the long axis of the bed ? Or blade perpendicular to the bed ? If parallel , you can adjust the squareness of the cut by

I made eccentric bushings and a smaller shaft for the pivot on mine years ago. It was not worth the effort and if I had to do it again I believe it would be easier to glue some material to the base

Has anyone attempted to file or grind the base to bring it square to the blade over the full range of vertical travel? You can't adjust anything at the pivot point on these machines

Well, almost. I had a blade guide bearing fail on my Jet 5x7 last summer, after 14 years of hobby use. I replaced all six and darn near broke my budget! (snicker)? PGN Bearings # 6000-2RS $0.93 each

"The blade is better supported with closer guide roller settings and won't wander as much, if you care about squareness, then ?use the OEM setting. ?If squareness of cut is not that important to

Many many thanks for all this. I have my saw apart on the bench at the moment. I’ll study these responses, reassemble the parts, and hopefully post again when I have a better understanding of how

Hi Jack The OEM side guide roller clearance setting is zero to 1thou over the blade thickness (which is very closely controlled to 25thou in all good blades) so 25-26 thou between the rollers The