Re: Over head rail project.
??? ??? Thats funny , my Global Supply cat showed up on Saturday
. I have tried to quit them & sill keep getting them . My kid
says you leave a Global cat on a table at a party someone is
??? always pick it up & start showing things to their bud's .
You can get the trolly's on Amazon , not sure about the prices . I
bet its been 20 years since I bought any for a customer .
??? ???
??? ??? animal
On 11/7/2022 7:55 PM, Bill Armstrong
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Beeline…..I forgot about those guys! Thanks! I got an old Beeline
catalog somewhere, from back when I worked for a livin’! Global
Supply is another one that often has good pricing.
Far as I’ve got so far, is looking at McMaster Carr. They
sell the trolleys and strut etc., but they are not where I want
to buy from. They always have stock, but seldom the best price.?
Other Bill
?
?
??? ??? Other Bill , if you can get your hands on a
Unistrut or a Beeline catalog they have ( or used to
have ) weight & span & other tables for
construction . Unistrut is just a toy for big kids .
??? ??? animal
On 11/7/2022 6:47 PM, Bill
Armstrong wrote:
Nice! Should work well for you when you get it all
installed!
And you can’t beat the price!?
I had a friend of mine who picked up the leftovers
of a similar monorail system from a mill they tore
down. He installed it in his shop, which started it’s
life as a 4-car garage.?
I notice as I’m gettin’ older, things like my 6”
mill vise, and my angle table, are gaining wait. I’ve
been thinking on using unistrut for a small trolley
& lift.
Other Bill
On Nov 7, 2022, at 2:42 AM,
steve nicholson
<steve@...> wrote:
? At Mike Allen's request here is
a bit of information on the over head rail I'm
putting up in my workshop to enable loading lathe
and mill from work bench with tooling or material.
Basically it is 2.5"x0.5" flat bar supported from
the ceiling as a rail and a gate system to enable
changing direction of a slider with chain block
attached. See attached photo for progress so far.
Think of it as the old type of rail system
used in a meat processing factory where each
carcass is on a sliding hook that runs along the
rail and has gates that close between rails to
move product to different areas. This is actually
what I have, my property is an old bacon and small
meat goods factory which still had some of the
rails and gate systems left in it when I got the
place. I've cut it down and moved it to the area I
use as my metal workshop.
Even though I had everything, it has still
take a lot of time to get it cut to size and
everything lining up correctly. I've had to modify
the gate lengths to make everything fit in the
right place. I won't be able to easily change the
configuration of things once it is all done so
I've spent a lot of time measuring twice and
cutting multiple times too! Realistically it is
over kill for what I need, it will easily handle
100kg (220lbs), but it was free since I had all
the materials.

|
Re: Old... motorbikes and watermelon wine (was how to square vertical cutting table?)
Street legal stuff. That’s mostly absent from my dated knowledge base! LOL!?
I did own a few enduros that I licensed, and a BMW RT750, but that’s about it.?
There’s scooter trash, and then there’s dirt scooter trash! LOL!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Nov 7, 2022, at 7:44 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
?
??? ??? Suzuki did better with the X6 Hustler . I remembered those being somewhat bigger til i sat on one a bud had a few years back . Rumor in our area was a Suzuki dealer was trying to get a
??? ??? Honda franchise but was turned down cause the X6 was quicker then the Hondas at the time . Never found out if that was for real? Though I think the top speed of a 305 Super Hawk was ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? bragged to be 110 MPH .
??? ??? animal
On 11/7/2022 7:06 PM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
Yeeeeesh The TM400. What horrible things those were. Had great ads though. Pics of Roger DeCoster sittin’ on his championship winning 400 next to a shiny new TM400.
The only thing the two bikes had in common, was a yellow gas tank, and the Suzuki decal.?
I had friends who bought those things. Some others got TM250’s.?
The 400 had a lot of power, but only at high RPM’s. Low end torque was non-existent, and the mid range wasn’t much better. When you finally got up to the power band though…..lookout!?
Other than the front forks being garbage, same for the rear shocks, the frame & swing arm twisting and breaking, and the engines blowin’ up, what’s not to like? Most of the guys I knew got rid of em. It was hard to believe that they were so far removed
from the works bikes.?
?One friend was a die hard, and sunk about enough money into his to buy two more brand new ones into his. Like the thing wasn’t heavy enough, by the time he was done, he added another 25 pounds trying to improve it, and he still couldn’t keep the front
end from washing out on even a wide corner. Straight line only, that was for sure!
Took a few years for Suzuki to figure it out, and come up with the RM’s. The RM was light years ahead of the TM, and an actual competitive bike.
Other Bill
?
I think it was the TM 400 in one of the magazine test first line " more power than a Husky & handles worse " . Some of the folks I heard that rode then said they will steer you great , straight
??? ??? over a berm . Never had the pleasure myself .
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 9:49 PM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
The very first monoshocks were the YZ250 & YZ360 in ‘74. I had some of both that year. They had the shock that mounted cantilevered thru the frame, under the gas tank, and up to the triple clamp. It was up by the triple clamp were mine got tired and cracked,
and would fail if I didn’t catch em. I even heard a few of ‘em crack when I landed on some big jumps. The motor mounts were also a weak spot. Lot of engine vibration. Titanium motor mount bolts fixed that problem, but the AMA outlawed titanium in ‘72.?
Yamaha stayed with that monoshock set up till ‘81 if I remember right. 82’s went with the link set up. The 360 changed to a 400 and grew to a 490 through those years as well. Good bikes. I won a lot of races on the 250’s and 360’s up thru 1976. Never raced
a 490, but rode a few. I sure liked the torque! After forgetting about horsepower for a few years in lieu of better suspensions, they finally got back on the engine power improvements again.?
Other Bill
?
??? ??? I had one of those death trap 400's I think it was the first YZ with the rear shock that went through the frame tube . I started cleaning it up & told a bud about it & he proceed to tell me about ??? ??? ??? all the folks that got hurt real bad on
those bikes . So after being a proud owner for a day & half I gave it to my bud who was building sand quads at the time .The motor ended up running
??? ??? on I believe some kind of? oxygenated alcohol blend in a frame he build , He used to bet folks $ 20.00 they couldn't open it up in hi gear . Made tons of $$$ & never lost a bet . He also built
??? ??? a quad frame for a Kawasaki 900 engine he had layin around , called that one the " sand Kaw " another way to fast machine . I hope the folks that ended up buying them from him didn't get
??? ??? hurt to bad on them . I quit thinking I was invincible after I rolled a water truck . Never saw a tire tuck like? you mentioned , but I guarantee it made pee run down both leg's .
??? ??? animal
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 8:58 PM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
It was easy to spend a lot of money in those days, that’s a fact! So many after-market manufacturers and dealers poppin’ up with cool stuff, you could go crazy. I bought 4130 chrome moly frames from DG, as well as aluminum swing arms for my ‘75 YZ Monoshockers.
The stock frames didn’t hold up real well, and were heavy. ?Got down to minimum weight, and quit welding on em, but at a price.?
Definitely had to get your geometry right when you modified a rear suspension. Mine, all bottomed out on the shock before the tire hit the fender. I made sure of that prior to final welding.?
Sure saw a lot of bent swing arms with guys who moved the shock mounts but didn’t beef up the swing arm tubes when they did.?
Something else I saw from time to time, luckily on other guys bikes and not mine, was the rear shocks flying apart when they went over a jump. When they got airborne, and the rear wheel goes under the skid plate, it makes for an ugly landing and a real
fancy get-off!?
All part of the learning curve I guess.?
Fun times!
Other Bill
?
??? ??? The GYT kits were all the craze , or a Webco head with a compression relief . Thats how we turned off our bikes when the cops caught us & told us to shut them off . Yep we were asking
??? ??? for it , on more then one occasion . My bud built up a bad ass Super rat? . I forgot where he got the shocks he used when he lengthened the swing arm & laid the shocks down some . First
??? ??? time over a big jump & the back tire bottomed out on the back fender & rear frame loop . when the scabs healed we took the rear shocks apart & put some limiting rubber bumpers on
??? ??? the shaft so the shocks couldn't travel that far any more .
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 4:33 AM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
Yup.....I'm afraid we're dinosaurs!
I had a DT1 too, with a frame lowering kit I added, and an after-market expansion chamber, among some other mods. Japanese moto-x bikes weren't available yet, until about '72. That's when I bought my DT2MX.
Before that, the European bikes ruled the dirt! It was quite a transition from European domination, to Japanese.
Guys goin' fast had a Maico,a Husqvarna, or a CZ. Still had a few British bikes around, like Greeves, and the AJS Stormer, or the Spanish bikes like Bultaco & Ossa. Montesa never did much in moto-x, but the Sherpa sure was and is a first class trials bike They
survived though, with a little help, and are now Montesa Honda.
I had a Bultaco Matador, 6-day trials bike. 6-day bikes were HD enduro class. Bought a TY250 when they came out., just for fun. Had a '84 TY350 too, which I sure wouldn't mind havin' back!
Dirt bikes are an expensive habit, if you try riding pro like I did. I used to buy YZ250's & YZ360's 2 at a time. Practice bikes, ones set up for amateur racing, and then a couple with a lot of mods to try & keep up with the works bikes. Hard to do when a guy
works for a living!
Yup! We are dinosaurs! Dirt bikes had 2 shocks, not 1, and 2 strokes, not 4! LOL!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 3:20 PM, Chuck Peterson wrote:
Oh my gosh, somebody of my Vintage. I had a I 1968 Yamaha 250 DT1 Enduro. Now that’s old. Others had CZ, Jawa, Penrod, Husky.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 12:05 PM Bill Armstrong < bill_1955@...> wrote:
Classic bike! I started racing with a '72 DT2MX250 and got a MX250 when they came out. Didn't have the MX250 for long, since the YZ250& 360A's came out later in '73, so I got some of those as soon as they hit Tucson.
MX250 had transmission problems, at least, if you race 'em hard. Mine blew up twice. It became pretty much? expected. Probably held up a lot better for plain ol' desert ridin'.
All were before anyone discovered suspension with travel. MX250 had the rear shocks with the extra reservoir on 'em, I remember that.? The big suspension changes started in '74.
Hope you get your 250 restored, and post some pics as you get 'er done!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 10:45 AM, mike allen wrote:
??? ??? Sounds like a super neato project , I'm getting ready to build my machine room inside of my shop & it would be great to see / hear more about your overhead project . I'm partly disabled
??? ??? & anything to help in heavy lifting is a blessing . I still have my 1973 Yamaha MX250 , though its in boxes waiting for the proper star alignment for the rebuild . Watch some of the vintage
??? ??? moto cross on? . Those old bikes with 4" of suspension , those racers were real men !!!!!!!! & the ones from the late 50's - early 60's on the big British bikes , those guys were real tough !
??? ??? animal
On 11/5/2022 3:05 AM, steve nicholson wrote:
I think I've used my bandsaw more in the last couple of weeks than the whole time I've had it, a new blade did wonders to speeding up the cuts too. I'm making a over head rail system to move tooling and material between bench, lathe and mill, planning for
my old ago when it becomes a strain to fit a large 4-jaw chuck or move machine vice between mills!
Once the rails are up I can move the new lathe into position and get back into working on projects again. I have a couple of bikes on the project list to restore/get going again too.
Those old two strokes are collectable items now, nice to know your friend has had the same bike all it's life. Lots of people had them and are now wishing they kept them, hence going up in value!
Yes my saw is very similar to yours.
On 5/11/22 14:22, John Vreede wrote:
My pleasure to be of assistance Steve.
Its a long?time since there's?been any activity on this site and I admit to taking a break from work on the 4x6's.??
I've been helping a friend bring his Mach III Kawasaki back to life.? He bought it new in San Francisco?in 1969 when he was at Stanford, and?won't part with?it in this life. He met his
wife because it broke down in Montreal, has road rash on the tops(!) of the handlebars and passenger?grab rail from sliding along the freeway upside down.? So many memories. It runs now and we're attending to cosmetic issues. Great to be part of.
Your?saw?looks like mine, which?just?has a model number - UC115 - and no other distinguishing marks. Taiwanese mnfr from 1987 - jv.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 10:50 AM steve nicholson < steve@...> wrote:
Well it has only taken 2 years for me to find a good enough reason to make a table for use with the bandsaw in the vertical position AND sort out the table alignment.
Thank you John, I can confirm that fitting a large shim between the top of the guide arm and the frame casting solved the table being square to the blade. I haven't bothered with fitting set screws at the moment, I don't move the lower arm so the shim will
work fine for now.
I've attached a photo of the current small table I've made. It is 6mm (1/4") stainless (roughly 100mm x 80mm), the inside edge is angled to the blade and the outside edge is parallel with the blade. I can use the saw in the horizontal and vertical positions
with the table in place. I had to grind a small amount off the front of the angled edge to clear the frame in the horizontal position (my wood prototype cleared but may have been warped).
The idea of the small table with the angle on one side, is to allow a larger table with locating guides/rails to slide on and lock into place with the tapper on the small table (still to be tested).
I mentioned the table alignment problem to a friend with a similar bandsaw, he checked his and said his was the same, he is keen to make a small table and fix his alignment now he has seen mine.
So thank you again John Vreede for all you help and knowledge you share on these bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve Nicholson wrote:
Thanks for the information John, I'll take another look at the arm and try a packing shim to see how that works for me. Probably be next week before I get a chance to look at it properly.
Thanks again and have a wonderful day all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John Vreede wrote:
Arghhh..... Wrong way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this morning early to write the previous post before going on my regular Wednesday walking group and marked up the sawframe casting to photograph it for you and got it backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews in at the bottom of the casting (where the circle with the dot is in that photo), where
you should need to put the grub-screws in at the top, not me.
I moved the bottom of my guide arm out <1mm, I suggest you trial adding about 1.5mm of shim between the arm and the casting at the back of the slot as shown in the photo attached.
If that squares up your table then you can drill & tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv
|
Re: Over head rail project.
Beeline…..I forgot about those guys! Thanks! I got an old Beeline catalog somewhere, from back when I worked for a livin’! Global Supply is another one that often has good pricing.
Far as I’ve got so far, is looking at McMaster Carr. They sell the trolleys and strut etc., but they are not where I want to buy from. They always have stock, but seldom the best price.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Nov 7, 2022, at 7:39 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
?
??? ??? Other Bill , if you can get your hands on a Unistrut or a Beeline catalog they have ( or used to have ) weight & span & other tables for construction . Unistrut is just a toy for big kids .
??? ??? animal
On 11/7/2022 6:47 PM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
Nice! Should work well for you when you get it all installed!
And you can’t beat the price!?
I had a friend of mine who picked up the leftovers of a similar monorail system from a mill they tore down. He installed it in his shop, which started it’s life as a 4-car garage.?
I notice as I’m gettin’ older, things like my 6” mill vise, and my angle table, are gaining wait. I’ve been thinking on using unistrut for a small trolley & lift.
Other Bill
On Nov 7, 2022, at 2:42 AM, steve nicholson
<steve@...> wrote:
? At Mike Allen's request here is a bit of information on the over head rail I'm putting up in my workshop to enable loading lathe and mill from work bench with tooling or material. Basically it is 2.5"x0.5" flat bar supported from the ceiling
as a rail and a gate system to enable changing direction of a slider with chain block attached. See attached photo for progress so far.
Think of it as the old type of rail system used in a meat processing factory where each carcass is on a sliding hook that runs along the rail and has gates that close between rails to move product to different areas. This is actually what I have, my property
is an old bacon and small meat goods factory which still had some of the rails and gate systems left in it when I got the place. I've cut it down and moved it to the area I use as my metal workshop.
Even though I had everything, it has still take a lot of time to get it cut to size and everything lining up correctly. I've had to modify the gate lengths to make everything fit in the right place. I won't be able to easily change the configuration of
things once it is all done so I've spent a lot of time measuring twice and cutting multiple times too! Realistically it is over kill for what I need, it will easily handle 100kg (220lbs), but it was free since I had all the materials.

|
Re: Old... motorbikes and watermelon wine (was how to square vertical cutting table?)
??? ??? Suzuki did better with the X6 Hustler . I remembered
those being somewhat bigger til i sat on one a bud had a few years
back . Rumor in our area was a Suzuki dealer was trying to get a
??? ??? Honda franchise but was turned down cause the X6 was
quicker then the Hondas at the time . Never found out if that was
for real? Though I think the top speed of a 305 Super Hawk was ???
??? ??? ??? ??? ??? bragged to be 110 MPH .
??? ??? animal
On 11/7/2022 7:06 PM, Bill Armstrong
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Yeeeeesh The TM400. What horrible things those were. Had great ads
though. Pics of Roger DeCoster sittin’ on his championship winning
400 next to a shiny new TM400.
The only thing the two bikes had in common, was a yellow gas
tank, and the Suzuki decal.?
I had friends who bought those things. Some others got
TM250’s.?
The 400 had a lot of power, but only at high RPM’s. Low end
torque was non-existent, and the mid range wasn’t much better.
When you finally got up to the power band though…..lookout!?
Other than the front forks being garbage, same for the rear
shocks, the frame & swing arm twisting and breaking, and the
engines blowin’ up, what’s not to like? Most of the guys I knew
got rid of em. It was hard to believe that they were so far
removed from the works bikes.?
?One friend was a die hard, and sunk about enough money into
his to buy two more brand new ones into his. Like the thing
wasn’t heavy enough, by the time he was done, he added another
25 pounds trying to improve it, and he still couldn’t keep the
front end from washing out on even a wide corner. Straight line
only, that was for sure!
Took a few years for Suzuki to figure it out, and come up
with the RM’s. The RM was light years ahead of the TM, and an
actual competitive bike.
Other Bill
?
I think it was the TM 400 in one of the magazine test
first line " more power than a Husky & handles worse "
. Some of the folks I heard that rode then said they will
steer you great , straight
??? ??? over a berm . Never had the pleasure myself .
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 9:49 PM, Bill
Armstrong wrote:
The
very first monoshocks were the YZ250 & YZ360 in ‘74. I
had some of both that year. They had the shock that
mounted cantilevered thru the frame, under the gas tank,
and up to the triple clamp. It was up by the triple clamp
were mine got tired and cracked, and would fail if I
didn’t catch em. I even heard a few of ‘em crack when I
landed on some big jumps. The motor mounts were also a
weak spot. Lot of engine vibration. Titanium motor mount
bolts fixed that problem, but the AMA outlawed titanium in
‘72.?
Yamaha stayed with that monoshock set up till ‘81
if I remember right. 82’s went with the link set up.
The 360 changed to a 400 and grew to a 490 through
those years as well. Good bikes. I won a lot of races
on the 250’s and 360’s up thru 1976. Never raced a
490, but rode a few. I sure liked the torque! After
forgetting about horsepower for a few years in lieu of
better suspensions, they finally got back on the
engine power improvements again.?
Other Bill
?
??? ??? I had one of those death trap 400's I
think it was the first YZ with the rear shock
that went through the frame tube . I started
cleaning it up & told a bud about it &
he proceed to tell me about ??? ??? ??? all the
folks that got hurt real bad on those bikes . So
after being a proud owner for a day & half I
gave it to my bud who was building sand quads at
the time .The motor ended up running
??? ??? on I believe some kind of? oxygenated
alcohol blend in a frame he build , He used to
bet folks $ 20.00 they couldn't open it up in hi
gear . Made tons of $$$ & never lost a bet .
He also built
??? ??? a quad frame for a Kawasaki 900 engine
he had layin around , called that one the " sand
Kaw " another way to fast machine . I hope the
folks that ended up buying them from him didn't
get
??? ??? hurt to bad on them . I quit thinking I
was invincible after I rolled a water truck .
Never saw a tire tuck like? you mentioned , but
I guarantee it made pee run down both leg's .
??? ??? animal
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 8:58 PM,
Bill Armstrong wrote:
It
was easy to spend a lot of money in those days,
that’s a fact! So many after-market
manufacturers and dealers poppin’ up with cool
stuff, you could go crazy. I bought 4130 chrome
moly frames from DG, as well as aluminum swing
arms for my ‘75 YZ Monoshockers. The stock
frames didn’t hold up real well, and were heavy.
?Got down to minimum weight, and quit welding on
em, but at a price.?
Definitely had to get your geometry right
when you modified a rear suspension. Mine, all
bottomed out on the shock before the tire hit
the fender. I made sure of that prior to final
welding.?
Sure saw a lot of bent swing arms with guys
who moved the shock mounts but didn’t beef up
the swing arm tubes when they did.?
Something else I saw from time to time,
luckily on other guys bikes and not mine, was
the rear shocks flying apart when they went
over a jump. When they got airborne, and the
rear wheel goes under the skid plate, it makes
for an ugly landing and a real fancy get-off!?
All part of the learning curve I guess.?
Fun times!
Other Bill
?
??? ??? The GYT kits were all the craze
, or a Webco head with a compression
relief . Thats how we turned off our
bikes when the cops caught us & told
us to shut them off . Yep we were asking
??? ??? for it , on more then one
occasion . My bud built up a bad ass
Super rat? . I forgot where he got the
shocks he used when he lengthened the
swing arm & laid the shocks down
some . First
??? ??? time over a big jump & the
back tire bottomed out on the back
fender & rear frame loop . when the
scabs healed we took the rear shocks
apart & put some limiting rubber
bumpers on
??? ??? the shaft so the shocks
couldn't travel that far any more .
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022
4:33 AM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
Yup.....I'm
afraid we're dinosaurs!
I had a DT1 too, with a frame lowering
kit I added, and an after-market
expansion chamber, among some other
mods. Japanese moto-x bikes weren't
available yet, until about '72. That's
when I bought my DT2MX.
Before that, the European bikes ruled
the dirt! It was quite a transition from
European domination, to Japanese.
Guys goin' fast had a Maico,a Husqvarna,
or a CZ. Still had a few British bikes
around, like Greeves, and the AJS
Stormer, or the Spanish bikes like
Bultaco & Ossa. Montesa never did
much in moto-x, but the Sherpa sure was
and is a first class trials bike They
survived though, with a little help, and
are now Montesa Honda.
I had a Bultaco Matador, 6-day trials
bike. 6-day bikes were HD enduro class.
Bought a TY250 when they came out., just
for fun. Had a '84 TY350 too, which I
sure wouldn't mind havin' back!
Dirt bikes are an expensive habit, if
you try riding pro like I did. I used to
buy YZ250's & YZ360's 2 at a time.
Practice bikes, ones set up for amateur
racing, and then a couple with a lot of
mods to try & keep up with the works
bikes. Hard to do when a guy works for a
living!
Yup! We are dinosaurs! Dirt bikes had 2
shocks, not 1, and 2 strokes, not 4!
LOL!
Other Bill
On
11/5/2022 3:20 PM, Chuck Peterson
wrote:
Oh my gosh, somebody
of my Vintage. I had a I 1968 Yamaha
250 DT1 Enduro. Now that’s old.
Others had CZ, Jawa, Penrod, Husky.
On
Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 12:05 PM
Bill Armstrong < bill_1955@...>
wrote:
Classic bike! I started
racing with a '72 DT2MX250 and
got a MX250 when they came
out. Didn't have the MX250 for
long, since the YZ250&
360A's came out later in '73,
so I got some of those as soon
as they hit Tucson.
MX250 had transmission
problems, at least, if you
race 'em hard. Mine blew up
twice. It became pretty much?
expected. Probably held up a
lot better for plain ol'
desert ridin'.
All were before anyone
discovered suspension with
travel. MX250 had the rear
shocks with the extra
reservoir on 'em, I remember
that.? The big suspension
changes started in '74.
Hope you get your 250
restored, and post some pics
as you get 'er done!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 10:45 AM,
mike allen wrote:
??? ??? Sounds like a
super neato project , I'm
getting ready to build my
machine room inside of my
shop & it would be
great to see / hear more
about your overhead
project . I'm partly
disabled
??? ??? & anything to
help in heavy lifting is a
blessing . I still have my
1973 Yamaha MX250 , though
its in boxes waiting for
the proper star alignment
for the rebuild . Watch
some of the vintage
??? ??? moto cross on? .
Those old bikes with 4" of
suspension , those racers
were real men !!!!!!!!
& the ones from the
late 50's - early 60's on
the big British bikes ,
those guys were real tough
!
??? ??? animal
On 11/5/2022 3:05 AM,
steve nicholson wrote:
I think I've used my
bandsaw more in the last
couple of weeks than the
whole time I've had it,
a new blade did wonders
to speeding up the cuts
too. I'm making a over
head rail system to move
tooling and material
between bench, lathe and
mill, planning for my
old ago when it becomes
a strain to fit a large
4-jaw chuck or move
machine vice between
mills!
Once the rails are up I
can move the new lathe
into position and get
back into working on
projects again. I have a
couple of bikes on the
project list to
restore/get going again
too.
Those old two strokes
are collectable items
now, nice to know your
friend has had the same
bike all it's life. Lots
of people had them and
are now wishing they
kept them, hence going
up in value!
Yes my saw is very
similar to yours.
On 5/11/22 14:22,
John Vreede wrote:
My pleasure to be of
assistance Steve.
Its a long?time since
there's?been any
activity on this
site and I admit to
taking a break from
work on the 4x6's.??
I've been helping a
friend bring his
Mach III Kawasaki
back to life.? He
bought it new in San
Francisco?in 1969
when he was at
Stanford, and?won't
part with?it in this
life. He met his
wife because it
broke down in
Montreal, has road
rash on the tops(!)
of the handlebars
and passenger?grab
rail from sliding
along the freeway
upside down.? So
many memories. It
runs now and we're
attending to
cosmetic issues.
Great to be part of.
Your?saw?looks like mine,
which?just?has a
model number - UC115
- and no other
distinguishing
marks. Taiwanese
mnfr from 1987 - jv.
On
Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at
10:50 AM steve
nicholson < steve@...> wrote:
Well it has
only taken 2
years for me to
find a good
enough reason to
make a table for
use with the
bandsaw in the
vertical
position AND
sort out the
table alignment.
Thank you John,
I can confirm
that fitting a
large shim
between the top
of the guide arm
and the frame
casting solved
the table being
square to the
blade. I haven't
bothered with
fitting set
screws at the
moment, I don't
move the lower
arm so the shim
will work fine
for now.
I've attached a
photo of the
current small
table I've made.
It is 6mm (1/4")
stainless
(roughly 100mm x
80mm), the
inside edge is
angled to the
blade and the
outside edge is
parallel with
the blade. I can
use the saw in
the horizontal
and vertical
positions with
the table in
place. I had to
grind a small
amount off the
front of the
angled edge to
clear the frame
in the
horizontal
position (my
wood prototype
cleared but may
have been
warped).
The idea of the
small table with
the angle on one
side, is to
allow a larger
table with
locating
guides/rails to
slide on and
lock into place
with the tapper
on the small
table (still to
be tested).
I mentioned the
table alignment
problem to a
friend with a
similar bandsaw,
he checked his
and said his was
the same, he is
keen to make a
small table and
fix his
alignment now he
has seen mine.
So thank you
again John
Vreede for all
you help and
knowledge you
share on these
bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20
22:23, Steve
Nicholson wrote:
Thanks for
the
information
John, I'll
take another
look at the
arm and try a
packing shim
to see how
that works for
me. Probably
be next week
before I get a
chance to look
at it
properly.
Thanks again
and have a
wonderful day
all.
Steve
On 23/09/20
4:45 pm, John
Vreede wrote:
Arghhh.....
Wrong way
round!.
Sorry Steve I
got up this
morning early
to write the
previous post
before going
on my regular
Wednesday
walking group
and marked up
the sawframe
casting to
photograph it
for you and
got it
backwards.
I will be
putting the
setscrews in
at the bottom
of the casting
(where the
circle with
the dot is in
that photo),
where
you
should need to
put the
grub-screws in
at the top,
not me.
I moved the
bottom of my
guide arm out
<1mm, I
suggest you
trial adding
about 1.5mm of
shim between
the arm and
the casting at
the back of
the slot as
shown in the
photo
attached.
If that
squares up
your table
then you can
drill &
tap
Sorry for the
confusion - jv
|
Re: Over head rail project.
??? ??? Other Bill , if you can get your hands on a Unistrut or a
Beeline catalog they have ( or used to have ) weight & span
& other tables for construction . Unistrut is just a toy for
big kids .
??? ??? animal
On 11/7/2022 6:47 PM, Bill Armstrong
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Nice! Should work well for you when you get it all installed!
And you can’t beat the price!?
I had a friend of mine who picked up the leftovers of a
similar monorail system from a mill they tore down. He installed
it in his shop, which started it’s life as a 4-car garage.?
I notice as I’m gettin’ older, things like my 6” mill vise,
and my angle table, are gaining wait. I’ve been thinking on
using unistrut for a small trolley & lift.
Other Bill
On Nov 7, 2022, at 2:42 AM, steve
nicholson <steve@...> wrote:
? At Mike Allen's request here is a bit of
information on the over head rail I'm putting up in my
workshop to enable loading lathe and mill from work bench
with tooling or material. Basically it is 2.5"x0.5" flat bar
supported from the ceiling as a rail and a gate system to
enable changing direction of a slider with chain block
attached. See attached photo for progress so far.
Think of it as the old type of rail system used in a
meat processing factory where each carcass is on a sliding
hook that runs along the rail and has gates that close
between rails to move product to different areas. This is
actually what I have, my property is an old bacon and small
meat goods factory which still had some of the rails and
gate systems left in it when I got the place. I've cut it
down and moved it to the area I use as my metal workshop.
Even though I had everything, it has still take a lot of
time to get it cut to size and everything lining up
correctly. I've had to modify the gate lengths to make
everything fit in the right place. I won't be able to easily
change the configuration of things once it is all done so
I've spent a lot of time measuring twice and cutting
multiple times too! Realistically it is over kill for what I
need, it will easily handle 100kg (220lbs), but it was free
since I had all the materials.

|
Re: Old... motorbikes and watermelon wine (was how to square vertical cutting table?)
Yeeeeesh The TM400. What horrible things those were. Had great ads though. Pics of Roger DeCoster sittin’ on his championship winning 400 next to a shiny new TM400.
The only thing the two bikes had in common, was a yellow gas tank, and the Suzuki decal.?
I had friends who bought those things. Some others got TM250’s.?
The 400 had a lot of power, but only at high RPM’s. Low end torque was non-existent, and the mid range wasn’t much better. When you finally got up to the power band though…..lookout!?
Other than the front forks being garbage, same for the rear shocks, the frame & swing arm twisting and breaking, and the engines blowin’ up, what’s not to like? Most of the guys I knew got rid of em. It was hard to believe that they were so far removed
from the works bikes.?
?One friend was a die hard, and sunk about enough money into his to buy two more brand new ones into his. Like the thing wasn’t heavy enough, by the time he was done, he added another 25 pounds trying to improve it, and he still couldn’t keep the front
end from washing out on even a wide corner. Straight line only, that was for sure!
Took a few years for Suzuki to figure it out, and come up with the RM’s. The RM was light years ahead of the TM, and an actual competitive bike.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Nov 7, 2022, at 5:53 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
?
I think it was the TM 400 in one of the magazine test first line " more power than a Husky & handles worse " . Some of the folks I heard that rode then said they will steer you great , straight
??? ??? over a berm . Never had the pleasure myself .
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 9:49 PM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
The very first monoshocks were the YZ250 & YZ360 in ‘74. I had some of both that year. They had the shock that mounted cantilevered thru the frame, under the gas tank, and up to the triple clamp. It was up by the triple clamp were mine got tired and cracked,
and would fail if I didn’t catch em. I even heard a few of ‘em crack when I landed on some big jumps. The motor mounts were also a weak spot. Lot of engine vibration. Titanium motor mount bolts fixed that problem, but the AMA outlawed titanium in ‘72.?
Yamaha stayed with that monoshock set up till ‘81 if I remember right. 82’s went with the link set up. The 360 changed to a 400 and grew to a 490 through those years as well. Good bikes. I won a lot of races on the 250’s and 360’s up thru 1976. Never raced
a 490, but rode a few. I sure liked the torque! After forgetting about horsepower for a few years in lieu of better suspensions, they finally got back on the engine power improvements again.?
Other Bill
?
??? ??? I had one of those death trap 400's I think it was the first YZ with the rear shock that went through the frame tube . I started cleaning it up & told a bud about it & he proceed to tell me about ??? ??? ??? all the folks that got hurt real bad on
those bikes . So after being a proud owner for a day & half I gave it to my bud who was building sand quads at the time .The motor ended up running
??? ??? on I believe some kind of? oxygenated alcohol blend in a frame he build , He used to bet folks $ 20.00 they couldn't open it up in hi gear . Made tons of $$$ & never lost a bet . He also built
??? ??? a quad frame for a Kawasaki 900 engine he had layin around , called that one the " sand Kaw " another way to fast machine . I hope the folks that ended up buying them from him didn't get
??? ??? hurt to bad on them . I quit thinking I was invincible after I rolled a water truck . Never saw a tire tuck like? you mentioned , but I guarantee it made pee run down both leg's .
??? ??? animal
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 8:58 PM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
It was easy to spend a lot of money in those days, that’s a fact! So many after-market manufacturers and dealers poppin’ up with cool stuff, you could go crazy. I bought 4130 chrome moly frames from DG, as well as aluminum swing arms for my ‘75 YZ Monoshockers.
The stock frames didn’t hold up real well, and were heavy. ?Got down to minimum weight, and quit welding on em, but at a price.?
Definitely had to get your geometry right when you modified a rear suspension. Mine, all bottomed out on the shock before the tire hit the fender. I made sure of that prior to final welding.?
Sure saw a lot of bent swing arms with guys who moved the shock mounts but didn’t beef up the swing arm tubes when they did.?
Something else I saw from time to time, luckily on other guys bikes and not mine, was the rear shocks flying apart when they went over a jump. When they got airborne, and the rear wheel goes under the skid plate, it makes for an ugly landing and a real
fancy get-off!?
All part of the learning curve I guess.?
Fun times!
Other Bill
?
??? ??? The GYT kits were all the craze , or a Webco head with a compression relief . Thats how we turned off our bikes when the cops caught us & told us to shut them off . Yep we were asking
??? ??? for it , on more then one occasion . My bud built up a bad ass Super rat? . I forgot where he got the shocks he used when he lengthened the swing arm & laid the shocks down some . First
??? ??? time over a big jump & the back tire bottomed out on the back fender & rear frame loop . when the scabs healed we took the rear shocks apart & put some limiting rubber bumpers on
??? ??? the shaft so the shocks couldn't travel that far any more .
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 4:33 AM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
Yup.....I'm afraid we're dinosaurs!
I had a DT1 too, with a frame lowering kit I added, and an after-market expansion chamber, among some other mods. Japanese moto-x bikes weren't available yet, until about '72. That's when I bought my DT2MX.
Before that, the European bikes ruled the dirt! It was quite a transition from European domination, to Japanese.
Guys goin' fast had a Maico,a Husqvarna, or a CZ. Still had a few British bikes around, like Greeves, and the AJS Stormer, or the Spanish bikes like Bultaco & Ossa. Montesa never did much in moto-x, but the Sherpa sure was and is a first class trials bike They
survived though, with a little help, and are now Montesa Honda.
I had a Bultaco Matador, 6-day trials bike. 6-day bikes were HD enduro class. Bought a TY250 when they came out., just for fun. Had a '84 TY350 too, which I sure wouldn't mind havin' back!
Dirt bikes are an expensive habit, if you try riding pro like I did. I used to buy YZ250's & YZ360's 2 at a time. Practice bikes, ones set up for amateur racing, and then a couple with a lot of mods to try & keep up with the works bikes. Hard to do when a guy
works for a living!
Yup! We are dinosaurs! Dirt bikes had 2 shocks, not 1, and 2 strokes, not 4! LOL!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 3:20 PM, Chuck Peterson wrote:
Oh my gosh, somebody of my Vintage. I had a I 1968 Yamaha 250 DT1 Enduro. Now that’s old. Others had CZ, Jawa, Penrod, Husky.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 12:05 PM Bill Armstrong < bill_1955@...> wrote:
Classic bike! I started racing with a '72 DT2MX250 and got a MX250 when they came out. Didn't have the MX250 for long, since the YZ250& 360A's came out later in '73, so I got some of those as soon as they hit Tucson.
MX250 had transmission problems, at least, if you race 'em hard. Mine blew up twice. It became pretty much? expected. Probably held up a lot better for plain ol' desert ridin'.
All were before anyone discovered suspension with travel. MX250 had the rear shocks with the extra reservoir on 'em, I remember that.? The big suspension changes started in '74.
Hope you get your 250 restored, and post some pics as you get 'er done!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 10:45 AM, mike allen wrote:
??? ??? Sounds like a super neato project , I'm getting ready to build my machine room inside of my shop & it would be great to see / hear more about your overhead project . I'm partly disabled
??? ??? & anything to help in heavy lifting is a blessing . I still have my 1973 Yamaha MX250 , though its in boxes waiting for the proper star alignment for the rebuild . Watch some of the vintage
??? ??? moto cross on? . Those old bikes with 4" of suspension , those racers were real men !!!!!!!! & the ones from the late 50's - early 60's on the big British bikes , those guys were real tough !
??? ??? animal
On 11/5/2022 3:05 AM, steve nicholson wrote:
I think I've used my bandsaw more in the last couple of weeks than the whole time I've had it, a new blade did wonders to speeding up the cuts too. I'm making a over head rail system to move tooling and material between bench, lathe and mill, planning for
my old ago when it becomes a strain to fit a large 4-jaw chuck or move machine vice between mills!
Once the rails are up I can move the new lathe into position and get back into working on projects again. I have a couple of bikes on the project list to restore/get going again too.
Those old two strokes are collectable items now, nice to know your friend has had the same bike all it's life. Lots of people had them and are now wishing they kept them, hence going up in value!
Yes my saw is very similar to yours.
On 5/11/22 14:22, John Vreede wrote:
My pleasure to be of assistance Steve.
Its a long?time since there's?been any activity on this site and I admit to taking a break from work on the 4x6's.??
I've been helping a friend bring his Mach III Kawasaki back to life.? He bought it new in San Francisco?in 1969 when he was at Stanford, and?won't part with?it in this life. He met his
wife because it broke down in Montreal, has road rash on the tops(!) of the handlebars and passenger?grab rail from sliding along the freeway upside down.? So many memories. It runs now and we're attending to cosmetic issues. Great to be part of.
Your?saw?looks like mine, which?just?has a model number - UC115 - and no other distinguishing marks. Taiwanese mnfr from 1987 - jv.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 10:50 AM steve nicholson < steve@...> wrote:
Well it has only taken 2 years for me to find a good enough reason to make a table for use with the bandsaw in the vertical position AND sort out the table alignment.
Thank you John, I can confirm that fitting a large shim between the top of the guide arm and the frame casting solved the table being square to the blade. I haven't bothered with fitting set screws at the moment, I don't move the lower arm so the shim will
work fine for now.
I've attached a photo of the current small table I've made. It is 6mm (1/4") stainless (roughly 100mm x 80mm), the inside edge is angled to the blade and the outside edge is parallel with the blade. I can use the saw in the horizontal and vertical positions
with the table in place. I had to grind a small amount off the front of the angled edge to clear the frame in the horizontal position (my wood prototype cleared but may have been warped).
The idea of the small table with the angle on one side, is to allow a larger table with locating guides/rails to slide on and lock into place with the tapper on the small table (still to be tested).
I mentioned the table alignment problem to a friend with a similar bandsaw, he checked his and said his was the same, he is keen to make a small table and fix his alignment now he has seen mine.
So thank you again John Vreede for all you help and knowledge you share on these bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve Nicholson wrote:
Thanks for the information John, I'll take another look at the arm and try a packing shim to see how that works for me. Probably be next week before I get a chance to look at it properly.
Thanks again and have a wonderful day all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John Vreede wrote:
Arghhh..... Wrong way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this morning early to write the previous post before going on my regular Wednesday walking group and marked up the sawframe casting to photograph it for you and got it backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews in at the bottom of the casting (where the circle with the dot is in that photo), where
you should need to put the grub-screws in at the top, not me.
I moved the bottom of my guide arm out <1mm, I suggest you trial adding about 1.5mm of shim between the arm and the casting at the back of the slot as shown in the photo attached.
If that squares up your table then you can drill & tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv
|
Re: Over head rail project.
Nice! Should work well for you when you get it all installed!
And you can’t beat the price!?
I had a friend of mine who picked up the leftovers of a similar monorail system from a mill they tore down. He installed it in his shop, which started it’s life as a 4-car garage.?
I notice as I’m gettin’ older, things like my 6” mill vise, and my angle table, are gaining wait. I’ve been thinking on using unistrut for a small trolley & lift.
Other Bill
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Nov 7, 2022, at 2:42 AM, steve nicholson <steve@...> wrote:
? At Mike Allen's request here is a bit of information on the over head rail I'm putting up in my workshop to enable loading lathe and mill from work bench with tooling or material. Basically it is 2.5"x0.5" flat bar supported from the ceiling
as a rail and a gate system to enable changing direction of a slider with chain block attached. See attached photo for progress so far.
Think of it as the old type of rail system used in a meat processing factory where each carcass is on a sliding hook that runs along the rail and has gates that close between rails to move product to different areas. This is actually what I have, my property
is an old bacon and small meat goods factory which still had some of the rails and gate systems left in it when I got the place. I've cut it down and moved it to the area I use as my metal workshop.
Even though I had everything, it has still take a lot of time to get it cut to size and everything lining up correctly. I've had to modify the gate lengths to make everything fit in the right place. I won't be able to easily change the configuration of
things once it is all done so I've spent a lot of time measuring twice and cutting multiple times too! Realistically it is over kill for what I need, it will easily handle 100kg (220lbs), but it was free since I had all the materials.

|
Re: Over head rail project.
Thanks for getting back Steve . I've seen the rails in the meat shops but never looked at the junctions . I had 4 back surgeries go bad & when they cracked my chest after my heart attack
??? ??? my lifting stalled real bad . I can still lift? 100 something after it gets up to my shoulders . I ended up with one of those HF truck cranes & been thinkin about putting it between my mill &
?? ??? ? big lathe? .? I like the idea of a shop that smells like beacon , but I live in bear country . Hate to argue with a bear over a lathe chuck .
??? ??? thanks
??? ??? animal
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 11/7/2022 2:41 AM, steve nicholson wrote: At Mike Allen's request here is a bit of information on the over head rail I'm putting up in my workshop to enable loading lathe and mill from work bench with tooling or material. Basically it is 2.5"x0.5" flat bar supported from the ceiling as a rail and a gate system to enable changing direction of a slider with chain block attached. See attached photo for progress so far.
Think of it as the old type of rail system used in a meat processing factory where each carcass is on a sliding hook that runs along the rail and has gates that close between rails to move product to different areas. This is actually what I have, my property is an old bacon and small meat goods factory which still had some of the rails and gate systems left in it when I got the place. I've cut it down and moved it to the area I use as my metal workshop.
Even though I had everything, it has still take a lot of time to get it cut to size and everything lining up correctly. I've had to modify the gate lengths to make everything fit in the right place. I won't be able to easily change the configuration of things once it is all done so I've spent a lot of time measuring twice and cutting multiple times too! Realistically it is over kill for what I need, it will easily handle 100kg (220lbs), but it was free since I had all the materials.
|
Re: Old... motorbikes and watermelon wine (was how to square vertical cutting table?)
I think it was the TM 400 in one of the magazine test first line
" more power than a Husky & handles worse " . Some of the
folks I heard that rode then said they will steer you great ,
straight
??? ??? over a berm . Never had the pleasure myself .
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 9:49 PM, Bill Armstrong
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The very first monoshocks were the YZ250 & YZ360 in ‘74. I had
some of both that year. They had the shock that mounted
cantilevered thru the frame, under the gas tank, and up to the
triple clamp. It was up by the triple clamp were mine got tired
and cracked, and would fail if I didn’t catch em. I even heard a
few of ‘em crack when I landed on some big jumps. The motor mounts
were also a weak spot. Lot of engine vibration. Titanium motor
mount bolts fixed that problem, but the AMA outlawed titanium in
‘72.?
Yamaha stayed with that monoshock set up till ‘81 if I
remember right. 82’s went with the link set up. The 360
changed to a 400 and grew to a 490 through those years as
well. Good bikes. I won a lot of races on the 250’s and 360’s
up thru 1976. Never raced a 490, but rode a few. I sure liked
the torque! After forgetting about horsepower for a few years
in lieu of better suspensions, they finally got back on the
engine power improvements again.?
Other Bill
?
??? ??? I had one of those death trap 400's I think it
was the first YZ with the rear shock that went through
the frame tube . I started cleaning it up & told a
bud about it & he proceed to tell me about ??? ???
??? all the folks that got hurt real bad on those bikes
. So after being a proud owner for a day & half I
gave it to my bud who was building sand quads at the
time .The motor ended up running
??? ??? on I believe some kind of? oxygenated alcohol
blend in a frame he build , He used to bet folks $ 20.00
they couldn't open it up in hi gear . Made tons of $$$
& never lost a bet . He also built
??? ??? a quad frame for a Kawasaki 900 engine he had
layin around , called that one the " sand Kaw " another
way to fast machine . I hope the folks that ended up
buying them from him didn't get
??? ??? hurt to bad on them . I quit thinking I was
invincible after I rolled a water truck . Never saw a
tire tuck like? you mentioned , but I guarantee it made
pee run down both leg's .
??? ??? animal
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 8:58 PM, Bill
Armstrong wrote:
It
was easy to spend a lot of money in those days, that’s a
fact! So many after-market manufacturers and dealers
poppin’ up with cool stuff, you could go crazy. I bought
4130 chrome moly frames from DG, as well as aluminum
swing arms for my ‘75 YZ Monoshockers. The stock frames
didn’t hold up real well, and were heavy. ?Got down to
minimum weight, and quit welding on em, but at a price.?
Definitely had to get your geometry right when you
modified a rear suspension. Mine, all bottomed out on
the shock before the tire hit the fender. I made sure
of that prior to final welding.?
Sure saw a lot of bent swing arms with guys who
moved the shock mounts but didn’t beef up the swing
arm tubes when they did.?
Something else I saw from time to time, luckily on
other guys bikes and not mine, was the rear shocks
flying apart when they went over a jump. When they got
airborne, and the rear wheel goes under the skid
plate, it makes for an ugly landing and a real fancy
get-off!?
All part of the learning curve I guess.?
Fun times!
Other Bill
?
??? ??? The GYT kits were all the craze , or a
Webco head with a compression relief . Thats how
we turned off our bikes when the cops caught us
& told us to shut them off . Yep we were
asking
??? ??? for it , on more then one occasion . My
bud built up a bad ass Super rat? . I forgot
where he got the shocks he used when he
lengthened the swing arm & laid the shocks
down some . First
??? ??? time over a big jump & the back
tire bottomed out on the back fender & rear
frame loop . when the scabs healed we took the
rear shocks apart & put some limiting rubber
bumpers on
??? ??? the shaft so the shocks couldn't travel
that far any more .
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 4:33 AM,
Bill Armstrong wrote:
Yup.....I'm
afraid we're dinosaurs!
I had a DT1 too, with a frame lowering kit I
added, and an after-market expansion chamber,
among some other mods. Japanese moto-x bikes
weren't available yet, until about '72. That's
when I bought my DT2MX.
Before that, the European bikes ruled the dirt!
It was quite a transition from European
domination, to Japanese.
Guys goin' fast had a Maico,a Husqvarna, or a
CZ. Still had a few British bikes around, like
Greeves, and the AJS Stormer, or the Spanish
bikes like Bultaco & Ossa. Montesa never did
much in moto-x, but the Sherpa sure was and is a
first class trials bike They survived though,
with a little help, and are now Montesa Honda.
I had a Bultaco Matador, 6-day trials bike.
6-day bikes were HD enduro class. Bought a TY250
when they came out., just for fun. Had a '84
TY350 too, which I sure wouldn't mind havin'
back!
Dirt bikes are an expensive habit, if you try
riding pro like I did. I used to buy YZ250's
& YZ360's 2 at a time. Practice bikes, ones
set up for amateur racing, and then a couple
with a lot of mods to try & keep up with the
works bikes. Hard to do when a guy works for a
living!
Yup! We are dinosaurs! Dirt bikes had 2 shocks,
not 1, and 2 strokes, not 4! LOL!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 3:20
PM, Chuck Peterson wrote:
Oh my gosh, somebody of my
Vintage. I had a I 1968 Yamaha 250 DT1
Enduro. Now that’s old. Others had CZ, Jawa,
Penrod, Husky.
On Sat,
Nov 5, 2022 at 12:05 PM Bill Armstrong
< bill_1955@...>
wrote:
Classic bike! I started racing with
a '72 DT2MX250 and got a MX250 when
they came out. Didn't have the MX250
for long, since the YZ250& 360A's
came out later in '73, so I got some
of those as soon as they hit Tucson.
MX250 had transmission problems, at
least, if you race 'em hard. Mine blew
up twice. It became pretty much?
expected. Probably held up a lot
better for plain ol' desert ridin'.
All were before anyone discovered
suspension with travel. MX250 had the
rear shocks with the extra reservoir
on 'em, I remember that.? The big
suspension changes started in '74.
Hope you get your 250 restored, and
post some pics as you get 'er done!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 10:45 AM, mike allen
wrote:
??? ??? Sounds like a super neato
project , I'm getting ready to
build my machine room inside of my
shop & it would be great to
see / hear more about your
overhead project . I'm partly
disabled
??? ??? & anything to help in
heavy lifting is a blessing . I
still have my 1973 Yamaha MX250 ,
though its in boxes waiting for
the proper star alignment for the
rebuild . Watch some of the
vintage
??? ??? moto cross on? . Those
old bikes with 4" of suspension ,
those racers were real men
!!!!!!!! & the ones from the
late 50's - early 60's on the big
British bikes , those guys were
real tough !
??? ??? animal
On 11/5/2022 3:05 AM, steve
nicholson wrote:
I think I've used my bandsaw
more in the last couple of weeks
than the whole time I've had it,
a new blade did wonders to
speeding up the cuts too. I'm
making a over head rail system
to move tooling and material
between bench, lathe and mill,
planning for my old ago when it
becomes a strain to fit a large
4-jaw chuck or move machine vice
between mills!
Once the rails are up I can
move the new lathe into position
and get back into working on
projects again. I have a couple
of bikes on the project list to
restore/get going again too.
Those old two strokes are
collectable items now, nice to
know your friend has had the
same bike all it's life. Lots of
people had them and are now
wishing they kept them, hence
going up in value!
Yes my saw is very similar to
yours.
On 5/11/22 14:22, John Vreede
wrote:
My
pleasure to be of assistance
Steve.
Its
a long?time since
there's?been any activity on
this site and I admit to
taking a break from work on
the 4x6's.??
I've
been helping a friend bring
his Mach III Kawasaki back
to life.? He bought it new
in San Francisco?in 1969
when he was at Stanford,
and?won't part with?it in
this life. He met his wife
because it broke down in
Montreal, has road rash on
the tops(!) of the
handlebars and
passenger?grab rail from
sliding along the freeway
upside down.? So many
memories. It runs now and
we're attending to cosmetic
issues. Great to be part of.
Your?saw?looks
like mine, which?just?has a
model number - UC115 - and
no other distinguishing
marks. Taiwanese mnfr from
1987 - jv.
On Sat,
Nov 5, 2022 at 10:50 AM
steve nicholson < steve@...>
wrote:
Well it has only taken
2 years for me to find a
good enough reason to
make a table for use
with the bandsaw in the
vertical position AND
sort out the table
alignment.
Thank you John, I can
confirm that fitting a
large shim between the
top of the guide arm and
the frame casting solved
the table being square
to the blade. I haven't
bothered with fitting
set screws at the
moment, I don't move the
lower arm so the shim
will work fine for now.
I've attached a photo
of the current small
table I've made. It is
6mm (1/4") stainless
(roughly 100mm x 80mm),
the inside edge is
angled to the blade and
the outside edge is
parallel with the blade.
I can use the saw in the
horizontal and vertical
positions with the table
in place. I had to grind
a small amount off the
front of the angled edge
to clear the frame in
the horizontal position
(my wood prototype
cleared but may have
been warped).
The idea of the small
table with the angle on
one side, is to allow a
larger table with
locating guides/rails to
slide on and lock into
place with the tapper on
the small table (still
to be tested).
I mentioned the table
alignment problem to a
friend with a similar
bandsaw, he checked his
and said his was the
same, he is keen to make
a small table and fix
his alignment now he has
seen mine.
So thank you again John
Vreede for all you help
and knowledge you share
on these bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23,
Steve Nicholson wrote:
Thanks for the
information John, I'll
take another look at
the arm and try a
packing shim to see
how that works for me.
Probably be next week
before I get a chance
to look at it
properly.
Thanks again and have
a wonderful day all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45
pm, John Vreede wrote:
Arghhh.....
Wrong way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up
this morning early to
write the previous
post before going on
my regular Wednesday
walking group and
marked up the sawframe
casting to photograph
it for you and got it
backwards.
I will be putting the
setscrews in at the
bottom of the casting
(where the circle with
the dot is in that
photo), where
you
should need to put the
grub-screws in at the
top, not me.
I moved the bottom of
my guide arm out
<1mm, I suggest you
trial adding about
1.5mm of shim between
the arm and the
casting at the back of
the slot as shown in
the photo attached.
If that squares up
your table then you
can drill & tap
Sorry for the
confusion - jv
|
At Mike Allen's request here is a bit of information on the over head rail I'm putting up in my workshop to enable loading lathe and mill from work bench with tooling or material. Basically it is 2.5"x0.5" flat bar supported from the ceiling as a rail and a gate system to enable changing direction of a slider with chain block attached. See attached photo for progress so far.
Think of it as the old type of rail system used in a meat processing factory where each carcass is on a sliding hook that runs along the rail and has gates that close between rails to move product to different areas. This is actually what I have, my property is an old bacon and small meat goods factory which still had some of the rails and gate systems left in it when I got the place. I've cut it down and moved it to the area I use as my metal workshop.
Even though I had everything, it has still take a lot of time to get it cut to size and everything lining up correctly. I've had to modify the gate lengths to make everything fit in the right place. I won't be able to easily change the configuration of things once it is all done so I've spent a lot of time measuring twice and cutting multiple times too! Realistically it is over kill for what I need, it will easily handle 100kg (220lbs), but it was free since I had all the materials.
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
The very first monoshocks were the YZ250 & YZ360 in ‘74. I had some of both that year. They had the shock that mounted cantilevered thru the frame, under the gas tank, and up to the triple clamp. It was up by the triple clamp were mine got tired and cracked,
and would fail if I didn’t catch em. I even heard a few of ‘em crack when I landed on some big jumps. The motor mounts were also a weak spot. Lot of engine vibration. Titanium motor mount bolts fixed that problem, but the AMA outlawed titanium in ‘72.?
Yamaha stayed with that monoshock set up till ‘81 if I remember right. 82’s went with the link set up. The 360 changed to a 400 and grew to a 490 through those years as well. Good bikes. I won a lot of races on the 250’s and 360’s up thru 1976. Never raced
a 490, but rode a few. I sure liked the torque! After forgetting about horsepower for a few years in lieu of better suspensions, they finally got back on the engine power improvements again.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Nov 6, 2022, at 9:21 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
?
??? ??? I had one of those death trap 400's I think it was the first YZ with the rear shock that went through the frame tube . I started cleaning it up & told a bud about it & he proceed to tell me about ??? ??? ??? all the folks that got hurt real bad on
those bikes . So after being a proud owner for a day & half I gave it to my bud who was building sand quads at the time .The motor ended up running
??? ??? on I believe some kind of? oxygenated alcohol blend in a frame he build , He used to bet folks $ 20.00 they couldn't open it up in hi gear . Made tons of $$$ & never lost a bet . He also built
??? ??? a quad frame for a Kawasaki 900 engine he had layin around , called that one the " sand Kaw " another way to fast machine . I hope the folks that ended up buying them from him didn't get
??? ??? hurt to bad on them . I quit thinking I was invincible after I rolled a water truck . Never saw a tire tuck like? you mentioned , but I guarantee it made pee run down both leg's .
??? ??? animal
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 8:58 PM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
It was easy to spend a lot of money in those days, that’s a fact! So many after-market manufacturers and dealers poppin’ up with cool stuff, you could go crazy. I bought 4130 chrome moly frames from DG, as well as aluminum swing arms for my ‘75 YZ Monoshockers.
The stock frames didn’t hold up real well, and were heavy. ?Got down to minimum weight, and quit welding on em, but at a price.?
Definitely had to get your geometry right when you modified a rear suspension. Mine, all bottomed out on the shock before the tire hit the fender. I made sure of that prior to final welding.?
Sure saw a lot of bent swing arms with guys who moved the shock mounts but didn’t beef up the swing arm tubes when they did.?
Something else I saw from time to time, luckily on other guys bikes and not mine, was the rear shocks flying apart when they went over a jump. When they got airborne, and the rear wheel goes under the skid plate, it makes for an ugly landing and a real
fancy get-off!?
All part of the learning curve I guess.?
Fun times!
Other Bill
?
??? ??? The GYT kits were all the craze , or a Webco head with a compression relief . Thats how we turned off our bikes when the cops caught us & told us to shut them off . Yep we were asking
??? ??? for it , on more then one occasion . My bud built up a bad ass Super rat? . I forgot where he got the shocks he used when he lengthened the swing arm & laid the shocks down some . First
??? ??? time over a big jump & the back tire bottomed out on the back fender & rear frame loop . when the scabs healed we took the rear shocks apart & put some limiting rubber bumpers on
??? ??? the shaft so the shocks couldn't travel that far any more .
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 4:33 AM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
Yup.....I'm afraid we're dinosaurs!
I had a DT1 too, with a frame lowering kit I added, and an after-market expansion chamber, among some other mods. Japanese moto-x bikes weren't available yet, until about '72. That's when I bought my DT2MX.
Before that, the European bikes ruled the dirt! It was quite a transition from European domination, to Japanese.
Guys goin' fast had a Maico,a Husqvarna, or a CZ. Still had a few British bikes around, like Greeves, and the AJS Stormer, or the Spanish bikes like Bultaco & Ossa. Montesa never did much in moto-x, but the Sherpa sure was and is a first class trials bike They
survived though, with a little help, and are now Montesa Honda.
I had a Bultaco Matador, 6-day trials bike. 6-day bikes were HD enduro class. Bought a TY250 when they came out., just for fun. Had a '84 TY350 too, which I sure wouldn't mind havin' back!
Dirt bikes are an expensive habit, if you try riding pro like I did. I used to buy YZ250's & YZ360's 2 at a time. Practice bikes, ones set up for amateur racing, and then a couple with a lot of mods to try & keep up with the works bikes. Hard to do when a guy
works for a living!
Yup! We are dinosaurs! Dirt bikes had 2 shocks, not 1, and 2 strokes, not 4! LOL!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 3:20 PM, Chuck Peterson wrote:
Oh my gosh, somebody of my Vintage. I had a I 1968 Yamaha 250 DT1 Enduro. Now that’s old. Others had CZ, Jawa, Penrod, Husky.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 12:05 PM Bill Armstrong < bill_1955@...> wrote:
Classic bike! I started racing with a '72 DT2MX250 and got a MX250 when they came out. Didn't have the MX250 for long, since the YZ250& 360A's came out later in '73, so I got some of those as soon as they hit Tucson.
MX250 had transmission problems, at least, if you race 'em hard. Mine blew up twice. It became pretty much? expected. Probably held up a lot better for plain ol' desert ridin'.
All were before anyone discovered suspension with travel. MX250 had the rear shocks with the extra reservoir on 'em, I remember that.? The big suspension changes started in '74.
Hope you get your 250 restored, and post some pics as you get 'er done!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 10:45 AM, mike allen wrote:
??? ??? Sounds like a super neato project , I'm getting ready to build my machine room inside of my shop & it would be great to see / hear more about your overhead project . I'm partly disabled
??? ??? & anything to help in heavy lifting is a blessing . I still have my 1973 Yamaha MX250 , though its in boxes waiting for the proper star alignment for the rebuild . Watch some of the vintage
??? ??? moto cross on? . Those old bikes with 4" of suspension , those racers were real men !!!!!!!! & the ones from the late 50's - early 60's on the big British bikes , those guys were real tough !
??? ??? animal
On 11/5/2022 3:05 AM, steve nicholson wrote:
I think I've used my bandsaw more in the last couple of weeks than the whole time I've had it, a new blade did wonders to speeding up the cuts too. I'm making a over head rail system to move tooling and material between bench, lathe and mill, planning for
my old ago when it becomes a strain to fit a large 4-jaw chuck or move machine vice between mills!
Once the rails are up I can move the new lathe into position and get back into working on projects again. I have a couple of bikes on the project list to restore/get going again too.
Those old two strokes are collectable items now, nice to know your friend has had the same bike all it's life. Lots of people had them and are now wishing they kept them, hence going up in value!
Yes my saw is very similar to yours.
On 5/11/22 14:22, John Vreede wrote:
My pleasure to be of assistance Steve.
Its a long?time since there's?been any activity on this site and I admit to taking a break from work on the 4x6's.??
I've been helping a friend bring his Mach III Kawasaki back to life.? He bought it new in San Francisco?in 1969 when he was at Stanford, and?won't part with?it in this life. He met his
wife because it broke down in Montreal, has road rash on the tops(!) of the handlebars and passenger?grab rail from sliding along the freeway upside down.? So many memories. It runs now and we're attending to cosmetic issues. Great to be part of.
Your?saw?looks like mine, which?just?has a model number - UC115 - and no other distinguishing marks. Taiwanese mnfr from 1987 - jv.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 10:50 AM steve nicholson < steve@...> wrote:
Well it has only taken 2 years for me to find a good enough reason to make a table for use with the bandsaw in the vertical position AND sort out the table alignment.
Thank you John, I can confirm that fitting a large shim between the top of the guide arm and the frame casting solved the table being square to the blade. I haven't bothered with fitting set screws at the moment, I don't move the lower arm so the shim will
work fine for now.
I've attached a photo of the current small table I've made. It is 6mm (1/4") stainless (roughly 100mm x 80mm), the inside edge is angled to the blade and the outside edge is parallel with the blade. I can use the saw in the horizontal and vertical positions
with the table in place. I had to grind a small amount off the front of the angled edge to clear the frame in the horizontal position (my wood prototype cleared but may have been warped).
The idea of the small table with the angle on one side, is to allow a larger table with locating guides/rails to slide on and lock into place with the tapper on the small table (still to be tested).
I mentioned the table alignment problem to a friend with a similar bandsaw, he checked his and said his was the same, he is keen to make a small table and fix his alignment now he has seen mine.
So thank you again John Vreede for all you help and knowledge you share on these bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve Nicholson wrote:
Thanks for the information John, I'll take another look at the arm and try a packing shim to see how that works for me. Probably be next week before I get a chance to look at it properly.
Thanks again and have a wonderful day all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John Vreede wrote:
Arghhh..... Wrong way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this morning early to write the previous post before going on my regular Wednesday walking group and marked up the sawframe casting to photograph it for you and got it backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews in at the bottom of the casting (where the circle with the dot is in that photo), where
you should need to put the grub-screws in at the top, not me.
I moved the bottom of my guide arm out <1mm, I suggest you trial adding about 1.5mm of shim between the arm and the casting at the back of the slot as shown in the photo attached.
If that squares up your table then you can drill & tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
??? ??? I had one of those death trap 400's I think it was the
first YZ with the rear shock that went through the frame tube . I
started cleaning it up & told a bud about it & he proceed
to tell me about ??? ??? ??? all the folks that got hurt real bad
on those bikes . So after being a proud owner for a day & half
I gave it to my bud who was building sand quads at the time .The
motor ended up running
??? ??? on I believe some kind of? oxygenated alcohol blend in a
frame he build , He used to bet folks $ 20.00 they couldn't open
it up in hi gear . Made tons of $$$ & never lost a bet . He
also built
??? ??? a quad frame for a Kawasaki 900 engine he had layin
around , called that one the " sand Kaw " another way to fast
machine . I hope the folks that ended up buying them from him
didn't get
??? ??? hurt to bad on them . I quit thinking I was invincible
after I rolled a water truck . Never saw a tire tuck like? you
mentioned , but I guarantee it made pee run down both leg's .
??? ??? animal
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 8:58 PM, Bill Armstrong
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
It was easy to spend a lot of money in those days, that’s a fact!
So many after-market manufacturers and dealers poppin’ up with
cool stuff, you could go crazy. I bought 4130 chrome moly frames
from DG, as well as aluminum swing arms for my ‘75 YZ
Monoshockers. The stock frames didn’t hold up real well, and were
heavy. ?Got down to minimum weight, and quit welding on em, but at
a price.?
Definitely had to get your geometry right when you modified a
rear suspension. Mine, all bottomed out on the shock before the
tire hit the fender. I made sure of that prior to final
welding.?
Sure saw a lot of bent swing arms with guys who moved the
shock mounts but didn’t beef up the swing arm tubes when they
did.?
Something else I saw from time to time, luckily on other guys
bikes and not mine, was the rear shocks flying apart when they
went over a jump. When they got airborne, and the rear wheel
goes under the skid plate, it makes for an ugly landing and a
real fancy get-off!?
All part of the learning curve I guess.?
Fun times!
Other Bill
?
??? ??? The GYT kits were all the craze , or a Webco head
with a compression relief . Thats how we turned off our
bikes when the cops caught us & told us to shut them
off . Yep we were asking
??? ??? for it , on more then one occasion . My bud built
up a bad ass Super rat? . I forgot where he got the shocks
he used when he lengthened the swing arm & laid the
shocks down some . First
??? ??? time over a big jump & the back tire bottomed
out on the back fender & rear frame loop . when the
scabs healed we took the rear shocks apart & put some
limiting rubber bumpers on
??? ??? the shaft so the shocks couldn't travel that far
any more .
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 4:33 AM, Bill
Armstrong wrote:
Yup.....I'm
afraid we're dinosaurs!
I had a DT1 too, with a frame lowering kit I added, and an
after-market expansion chamber, among some other mods.
Japanese moto-x bikes weren't available yet, until about
'72. That's when I bought my DT2MX.
Before that, the European bikes ruled the dirt! It was
quite a transition from European domination, to Japanese.
Guys goin' fast had a Maico,a Husqvarna, or a CZ. Still
had a few British bikes around, like Greeves, and the AJS
Stormer, or the Spanish bikes like Bultaco & Ossa.
Montesa never did much in moto-x, but the Sherpa sure was
and is a first class trials bike They survived though,
with a little help, and are now Montesa Honda.
I had a Bultaco Matador, 6-day trials bike. 6-day bikes
were HD enduro class. Bought a TY250 when they came out.,
just for fun. Had a '84 TY350 too, which I sure wouldn't
mind havin' back!
Dirt bikes are an expensive habit, if you try riding pro
like I did. I used to buy YZ250's & YZ360's 2 at a
time. Practice bikes, ones set up for amateur racing, and
then a couple with a lot of mods to try & keep up with
the works bikes. Hard to do when a guy works for a living!
Yup! We are dinosaurs! Dirt bikes had 2 shocks, not 1, and
2 strokes, not 4! LOL!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 3:20 PM, Chuck
Peterson wrote:
Oh my gosh, somebody of my Vintage. I
had a I 1968 Yamaha 250 DT1 Enduro. Now that’s old.
Others had CZ, Jawa, Penrod, Husky.
On Sat, Nov 5,
2022 at 12:05 PM Bill Armstrong < bill_1955@...>
wrote:
Classic bike! I started racing with a '72
DT2MX250 and got a MX250 when they came out.
Didn't have the MX250 for long, since the
YZ250& 360A's came out later in '73, so I
got some of those as soon as they hit Tucson.
MX250 had transmission problems, at least, if
you race 'em hard. Mine blew up twice. It became
pretty much? expected. Probably held up a lot
better for plain ol' desert ridin'.
All were before anyone discovered suspension
with travel. MX250 had the rear shocks with the
extra reservoir on 'em, I remember that.? The
big suspension changes started in '74.
Hope you get your 250 restored, and post some
pics as you get 'er done!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 10:45 AM, mike allen wrote:
??? ??? Sounds like a super neato project ,
I'm getting ready to build my machine room
inside of my shop & it would be great to
see / hear more about your overhead project
. I'm partly disabled
??? ??? & anything to help in heavy
lifting is a blessing . I still have my 1973
Yamaha MX250 , though its in boxes waiting
for the proper star alignment for the
rebuild . Watch some of the vintage
??? ??? moto cross on? . Those old bikes
with 4" of suspension , those racers were
real men !!!!!!!! & the ones from the
late 50's - early 60's on the big British
bikes , those guys were real tough !
??? ??? animal
On 11/5/2022 3:05 AM, steve nicholson
wrote:
I think I've used my bandsaw more in the
last couple of weeks than the whole time
I've had it, a new blade did wonders to
speeding up the cuts too. I'm making a
over head rail system to move tooling and
material between bench, lathe and mill,
planning for my old ago when it becomes a
strain to fit a large 4-jaw chuck or move
machine vice between mills!
Once the rails are up I can move the new
lathe into position and get back into
working on projects again. I have a couple
of bikes on the project list to
restore/get going again too.
Those old two strokes are collectable
items now, nice to know your friend has
had the same bike all it's life. Lots of
people had them and are now wishing they
kept them, hence going up in value!
Yes my saw is very similar to yours.
On 5/11/22 14:22, John Vreede wrote:
My
pleasure to be of assistance Steve.
Its
a long?time since there's?been any
activity on this site and I admit to
taking a break from work on the
4x6's.??
I've
been helping a friend bring his Mach
III Kawasaki back to life.? He bought
it new in San Francisco?in 1969 when
he was at Stanford, and?won't part
with?it in this life. He met his wife
because it broke down in Montreal, has
road rash on the tops(!) of the
handlebars and passenger?grab rail
from sliding along the freeway upside
down.? So many memories. It runs now
and we're attending to cosmetic
issues. Great to be part of.
Your?saw?looks
like mine, which?just?has a model
number - UC115 - and no other
distinguishing marks. Taiwanese mnfr
from 1987 - jv.
On
Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 10:50 AM steve
nicholson < steve@...>
wrote:
Well it has only taken 2 years
for me to find a good enough
reason to make a table for use
with the bandsaw in the vertical
position AND sort out the table
alignment.
Thank you John, I can confirm
that fitting a large shim between
the top of the guide arm and the
frame casting solved the table
being square to the blade. I
haven't bothered with fitting set
screws at the moment, I don't move
the lower arm so the shim will
work fine for now.
I've attached a photo of the
current small table I've made. It
is 6mm (1/4") stainless (roughly
100mm x 80mm), the inside edge is
angled to the blade and the
outside edge is parallel with the
blade. I can use the saw in the
horizontal and vertical positions
with the table in place. I had to
grind a small amount off the front
of the angled edge to clear the
frame in the horizontal position
(my wood prototype cleared but may
have been warped).
The idea of the small table with
the angle on one side, is to allow
a larger table with locating
guides/rails to slide on and lock
into place with the tapper on the
small table (still to be tested).
I mentioned the table alignment
problem to a friend with a similar
bandsaw, he checked his and said
his was the same, he is keen to
make a small table and fix his
alignment now he has seen mine.
So thank you again John Vreede
for all you help and knowledge you
share on these bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve
Nicholson wrote:
Thanks for the information
John, I'll take another look at
the arm and try a packing shim
to see how that works for me.
Probably be next week before I
get a chance to look at it
properly.
Thanks again and have a
wonderful day all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John
Vreede wrote:
Arghhh.....
Wrong way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this
morning early to write the
previous post before going on my
regular Wednesday walking group
and marked up the sawframe
casting to photograph it for you
and got it backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews
in at the bottom of the casting
(where the circle with the dot
is in that photo), where
you
should need to put the
grub-screws in at the top, not
me.
I moved the bottom of my guide
arm out <1mm, I suggest you
trial adding about 1.5mm of shim
between the arm and the casting
at the back of the slot as shown
in the photo attached.
If that squares up your table
then you can drill & tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
It was easy to spend a lot of money in those days, that’s a fact! So many after-market manufacturers and dealers poppin’ up with cool stuff, you could go crazy. I bought 4130 chrome moly frames from DG, as well as aluminum swing arms for my ‘75 YZ Monoshockers.
The stock frames didn’t hold up real well, and were heavy. ?Got down to minimum weight, and quit welding on em, but at a price.?
Definitely had to get your geometry right when you modified a rear suspension. Mine, all bottomed out on the shock before the tire hit the fender. I made sure of that prior to final welding.?
Sure saw a lot of bent swing arms with guys who moved the shock mounts but didn’t beef up the swing arm tubes when they did.?
Something else I saw from time to time, luckily on other guys bikes and not mine, was the rear shocks flying apart when they went over a jump. When they got airborne, and the rear wheel goes under the skid plate, it makes for an ugly landing and a real
fancy get-off!?
All part of the learning curve I guess.?
Fun times!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Nov 6, 2022, at 8:25 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
?
??? ??? The GYT kits were all the craze , or a Webco head with a compression relief . Thats how we turned off our bikes when the cops caught us & told us to shut them off . Yep we were asking
??? ??? for it , on more then one occasion . My bud built up a bad ass Super rat? . I forgot where he got the shocks he used when he lengthened the swing arm & laid the shocks down some . First
??? ??? time over a big jump & the back tire bottomed out on the back fender & rear frame loop . when the scabs healed we took the rear shocks apart & put some limiting rubber bumpers on
??? ??? the shaft so the shocks couldn't travel that far any more .
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 4:33 AM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
Yup.....I'm afraid we're dinosaurs!
I had a DT1 too, with a frame lowering kit I added, and an after-market expansion chamber, among some other mods. Japanese moto-x bikes weren't available yet, until about '72. That's when I bought my DT2MX.
Before that, the European bikes ruled the dirt! It was quite a transition from European domination, to Japanese.
Guys goin' fast had a Maico,a Husqvarna, or a CZ. Still had a few British bikes around, like Greeves, and the AJS Stormer, or the Spanish bikes like Bultaco & Ossa. Montesa never did much in moto-x, but the Sherpa sure was and is a first class trials bike They
survived though, with a little help, and are now Montesa Honda.
I had a Bultaco Matador, 6-day trials bike. 6-day bikes were HD enduro class. Bought a TY250 when they came out., just for fun. Had a '84 TY350 too, which I sure wouldn't mind havin' back!
Dirt bikes are an expensive habit, if you try riding pro like I did. I used to buy YZ250's & YZ360's 2 at a time. Practice bikes, ones set up for amateur racing, and then a couple with a lot of mods to try & keep up with the works bikes. Hard to do when a guy
works for a living!
Yup! We are dinosaurs! Dirt bikes had 2 shocks, not 1, and 2 strokes, not 4! LOL!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 3:20 PM, Chuck Peterson wrote:
Oh my gosh, somebody of my Vintage. I had a I 1968 Yamaha 250 DT1 Enduro. Now that’s old. Others had CZ, Jawa, Penrod, Husky.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 12:05 PM Bill Armstrong < bill_1955@...> wrote:
Classic bike! I started racing with a '72 DT2MX250 and got a MX250 when they came out. Didn't have the MX250 for long, since the YZ250& 360A's came out later in '73, so I got some of those as soon as they hit Tucson.
MX250 had transmission problems, at least, if you race 'em hard. Mine blew up twice. It became pretty much? expected. Probably held up a lot better for plain ol' desert ridin'.
All were before anyone discovered suspension with travel. MX250 had the rear shocks with the extra reservoir on 'em, I remember that.? The big suspension changes started in '74.
Hope you get your 250 restored, and post some pics as you get 'er done!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 10:45 AM, mike allen wrote:
??? ??? Sounds like a super neato project , I'm getting ready to build my machine room inside of my shop & it would be great to see / hear more about your overhead project . I'm partly disabled
??? ??? & anything to help in heavy lifting is a blessing . I still have my 1973 Yamaha MX250 , though its in boxes waiting for the proper star alignment for the rebuild . Watch some of the vintage
??? ??? moto cross on? . Those old bikes with 4" of suspension , those racers were real men !!!!!!!! & the ones from the late 50's - early 60's on the big British bikes , those guys were real tough !
??? ??? animal
On 11/5/2022 3:05 AM, steve nicholson wrote:
I think I've used my bandsaw more in the last couple of weeks than the whole time I've had it, a new blade did wonders to speeding up the cuts too. I'm making a over head rail system to move tooling and material between bench, lathe and mill, planning for
my old ago when it becomes a strain to fit a large 4-jaw chuck or move machine vice between mills!
Once the rails are up I can move the new lathe into position and get back into working on projects again. I have a couple of bikes on the project list to restore/get going again too.
Those old two strokes are collectable items now, nice to know your friend has had the same bike all it's life. Lots of people had them and are now wishing they kept them, hence going up in value!
Yes my saw is very similar to yours.
On 5/11/22 14:22, John Vreede wrote:
My pleasure to be of assistance Steve.
Its a long?time since there's?been any activity on this site and I admit to taking a break from work on the 4x6's.??
I've been helping a friend bring his Mach III Kawasaki back to life.? He bought it new in San Francisco?in 1969 when he was at Stanford, and?won't part with?it in this life. He met his
wife because it broke down in Montreal, has road rash on the tops(!) of the handlebars and passenger?grab rail from sliding along the freeway upside down.? So many memories. It runs now and we're attending to cosmetic issues. Great to be part of.
Your?saw?looks like mine, which?just?has a model number - UC115 - and no other distinguishing marks. Taiwanese mnfr from 1987 - jv.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 10:50 AM steve nicholson < steve@...> wrote:
Well it has only taken 2 years for me to find a good enough reason to make a table for use with the bandsaw in the vertical position AND sort out the table alignment.
Thank you John, I can confirm that fitting a large shim between the top of the guide arm and the frame casting solved the table being square to the blade. I haven't bothered with fitting set screws at the moment, I don't move the lower arm so the shim will
work fine for now.
I've attached a photo of the current small table I've made. It is 6mm (1/4") stainless (roughly 100mm x 80mm), the inside edge is angled to the blade and the outside edge is parallel with the blade. I can use the saw in the horizontal and vertical positions
with the table in place. I had to grind a small amount off the front of the angled edge to clear the frame in the horizontal position (my wood prototype cleared but may have been warped).
The idea of the small table with the angle on one side, is to allow a larger table with locating guides/rails to slide on and lock into place with the tapper on the small table (still to be tested).
I mentioned the table alignment problem to a friend with a similar bandsaw, he checked his and said his was the same, he is keen to make a small table and fix his alignment now he has seen mine.
So thank you again John Vreede for all you help and knowledge you share on these bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve Nicholson wrote:
Thanks for the information John, I'll take another look at the arm and try a packing shim to see how that works for me. Probably be next week before I get a chance to look at it properly.
Thanks again and have a wonderful day all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John Vreede wrote:
Arghhh..... Wrong way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this morning early to write the previous post before going on my regular Wednesday walking group and marked up the sawframe casting to photograph it for you and got it backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews in at the bottom of the casting (where the circle with the dot is in that photo), where
you should need to put the grub-screws in at the top, not me.
I moved the bottom of my guide arm out <1mm, I suggest you trial adding about 1.5mm of shim between the arm and the casting at the back of the slot as shown in the photo attached.
If that squares up your table then you can drill & tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
??? ??? The GYT kits were all the craze , or a Webco head with a
compression relief . Thats how we turned off our bikes when the
cops caught us & told us to shut them off . Yep we were asking
??? ??? for it , on more then one occasion . My bud built up a
bad ass Super rat? . I forgot where he got the shocks he used when
he lengthened the swing arm & laid the shocks down some .
First
??? ??? time over a big jump & the back tire bottomed out on
the back fender & rear frame loop . when the scabs healed we
took the rear shocks apart & put some limiting rubber bumpers
on
??? ??? the shaft so the shocks couldn't travel that far any more
.
??? ??? animal
On 11/6/2022 4:33 AM, Bill Armstrong
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Yup.....I'm afraid we're dinosaurs!
I had a DT1 too, with a frame lowering kit I added, and an
after-market expansion chamber, among some other mods. Japanese
moto-x bikes weren't available yet, until about '72. That's when I
bought my DT2MX.
Before that, the European bikes ruled the dirt! It was quite a
transition from European domination, to Japanese.
Guys goin' fast had a Maico,a Husqvarna, or a CZ. Still had a few
British bikes around, like Greeves, and the AJS Stormer, or the
Spanish bikes like Bultaco & Ossa. Montesa never did much in
moto-x, but the Sherpa sure was and is a first class trials bike
They survived though, with a little help, and are now Montesa
Honda.
I had a Bultaco Matador, 6-day trials bike. 6-day bikes were HD
enduro class. Bought a TY250 when they came out., just for fun.
Had a '84 TY350 too, which I sure wouldn't mind havin' back!
Dirt bikes are an expensive habit, if you try riding pro like I
did. I used to buy YZ250's & YZ360's 2 at a time. Practice
bikes, ones set up for amateur racing, and then a couple with a
lot of mods to try & keep up with the works bikes. Hard to do
when a guy works for a living!
Yup! We are dinosaurs! Dirt bikes had 2 shocks, not 1, and 2
strokes, not 4! LOL!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 3:20 PM, Chuck Peterson
wrote:
Oh my gosh, somebody of my Vintage. I had a I
1968 Yamaha 250 DT1 Enduro. Now that’s old. Others had CZ,
Jawa, Penrod, Husky.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at
12:05 PM Bill Armstrong < bill_1955@...>
wrote:
Classic bike! I started racing with a '72 DT2MX250
and got a MX250 when they came out. Didn't have the
MX250 for long, since the YZ250& 360A's came out
later in '73, so I got some of those as soon as they hit
Tucson.
MX250 had transmission problems, at least, if you race
'em hard. Mine blew up twice. It became pretty much?
expected. Probably held up a lot better for plain ol'
desert ridin'.
All were before anyone discovered suspension with
travel. MX250 had the rear shocks with the extra
reservoir on 'em, I remember that.? The big suspension
changes started in '74.
Hope you get your 250 restored, and post some pics as
you get 'er done!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 10:45 AM, mike allen wrote:
??? ??? Sounds like a super neato project , I'm
getting ready to build my machine room inside of my
shop & it would be great to see / hear more
about your overhead project . I'm partly disabled
??? ??? & anything to help in heavy lifting is
a blessing . I still have my 1973 Yamaha MX250 ,
though its in boxes waiting for the proper star
alignment for the rebuild . Watch some of the
vintage
??? ??? moto cross on? . Those old bikes with 4" of
suspension , those racers were real men !!!!!!!!
& the ones from the late 50's - early 60's on
the big British bikes , those guys were real tough !
??? ??? animal
On 11/5/2022 3:05 AM, steve nicholson wrote:
I think I've used my bandsaw more in the last
couple of weeks than the whole time I've had it, a
new blade did wonders to speeding up the cuts too.
I'm making a over head rail system to move tooling
and material between bench, lathe and mill,
planning for my old ago when it becomes a strain
to fit a large 4-jaw chuck or move machine vice
between mills!
Once the rails are up I can move the new lathe
into position and get back into working on
projects again. I have a couple of bikes on the
project list to restore/get going again too.
Those old two strokes are collectable items now,
nice to know your friend has had the same bike all
it's life. Lots of people had them and are now
wishing they kept them, hence going up in value!
Yes my saw is very similar to yours.
On 5/11/22 14:22, John Vreede wrote:
My
pleasure to be of assistance Steve.
Its
a long?time since there's?been any activity on
this site and I admit to taking a break from
work on the 4x6's.??
I've
been helping a friend bring his Mach III
Kawasaki back to life.? He bought it new in
San Francisco?in 1969 when he was at Stanford,
and?won't part with?it in this life. He met
his wife because it broke down in Montreal,
has road rash on the tops(!) of the handlebars
and passenger?grab rail from sliding along the
freeway upside down.? So many memories. It
runs now and we're attending to cosmetic
issues. Great to be part of.
Your?saw?looks
like mine, which?just?has a model number -
UC115 - and no other distinguishing marks.
Taiwanese mnfr from 1987 - jv.
On Sat, Nov 5,
2022 at 10:50 AM steve nicholson < steve@...>
wrote:
Well it has only taken 2 years for me to
find a good enough reason to make a table
for use with the bandsaw in the vertical
position AND sort out the table alignment.
Thank you John, I can confirm that
fitting a large shim between the top of
the guide arm and the frame casting solved
the table being square to the blade. I
haven't bothered with fitting set screws
at the moment, I don't move the lower arm
so the shim will work fine for now.
I've attached a photo of the current
small table I've made. It is 6mm (1/4")
stainless (roughly 100mm x 80mm), the
inside edge is angled to the blade and the
outside edge is parallel with the blade. I
can use the saw in the horizontal and
vertical positions with the table in
place. I had to grind a small amount off
the front of the angled edge to clear the
frame in the horizontal position (my wood
prototype cleared but may have been
warped).
The idea of the small table with the
angle on one side, is to allow a larger
table with locating guides/rails to slide
on and lock into place with the tapper on
the small table (still to be tested).
I mentioned the table alignment problem
to a friend with a similar bandsaw, he
checked his and said his was the same, he
is keen to make a small table and fix his
alignment now he has seen mine.
So thank you again John Vreede for all
you help and knowledge you share on these
bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve Nicholson
wrote:
Thanks for the information John, I'll
take another look at the arm and try a
packing shim to see how that works for
me. Probably be next week before I get a
chance to look at it properly.
Thanks again and have a wonderful day
all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John Vreede
wrote:
Arghhh..... Wrong
way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this morning early
to write the previous post before going
on my regular Wednesday walking group
and marked up the sawframe casting to
photograph it for you and got it
backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews in at
the bottom of the casting (where the
circle with the dot is in that photo),
where you
should need to put the grub-screws in at
the top, not me.
I moved the bottom of my guide arm out
<1mm, I suggest you trial adding
about 1.5mm of shim between the arm and
the casting at the back of the slot as
shown in the photo attached.
If that squares up your table then you
can drill & tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
??? ??? Must be the old folks drugs I take , I totally forgot I
have a MX 250 frame with a DT 250 engine with a dead magneto back
in the dark corner in my shop. belongs to one of my kids . Anyone
??? ??? got a spare mag sittin?? around ?
??? ??? animal
On 11/5/2022 12:04 PM, Bill Armstrong
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Classic bike! I started racing with a '72 DT2MX250 and got a MX250
when they came out. Didn't have the MX250 for long, since the
YZ250& 360A's came out later in '73, so I got some of those as
soon as they hit Tucson.
MX250 had transmission problems, at least, if you race 'em hard.
Mine blew up twice. It became pretty much? expected. Probably held
up a lot better for plain ol' desert ridin'.
All were before anyone discovered suspension with travel. MX250
had the rear shocks with the extra reservoir on 'em, I remember
that.? The big suspension changes started in '74.
Hope you get your 250 restored, and post some pics as you get 'er
done!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 10:45 AM, mike allen
wrote:
??? ??? Sounds like a super neato project , I'm getting ready
to build my machine room inside of my shop & it would be
great to see / hear more about your overhead project . I'm
partly disabled
??? ??? & anything to help in heavy lifting is a blessing
. I still have my 1973 Yamaha MX250 , though its in boxes
waiting for the proper star alignment for the rebuild . Watch
some of the vintage
??? ??? moto cross on? . Those old bikes with 4" of
suspension , those racers were real men !!!!!!!! & the
ones from the late 50's - early 60's on the big British bikes
, those guys were real tough !
??? ??? animal
On 11/5/2022 3:05 AM, steve
nicholson wrote:
I think I've used my bandsaw more in the last couple of
weeks than the whole time I've had it, a new blade did
wonders to speeding up the cuts too. I'm making a over head
rail system to move tooling and material between bench,
lathe and mill, planning for my old ago when it becomes a
strain to fit a large 4-jaw chuck or move machine vice
between mills!
Once the rails are up I can move the new lathe into
position and get back into working on projects again. I have
a couple of bikes on the project list to restore/get going
again too.
Those old two strokes are collectable items now, nice to
know your friend has had the same bike all it's life. Lots
of people had them and are now wishing they kept them, hence
going up in value!
Yes my saw is very similar to yours.
On 5/11/22 14:22, John Vreede
wrote:
My
pleasure to be of assistance Steve.
Its a
long?time since there's?been any activity on this site
and I admit to taking a break from work on the 4x6's.??
I've been
helping a friend bring his Mach III Kawasaki back to
life.? He bought it new in San Francisco?in 1969 when he
was at Stanford, and?won't part with?it in this life. He
met his wife because it broke down in Montreal, has road
rash on the tops(!) of the handlebars and passenger?grab
rail from sliding along the freeway upside down.? So
many memories. It runs now and we're attending to
cosmetic issues. Great to be part of.
Your?saw?looks
like mine, which?just?has a model number - UC115 - and
no other distinguishing marks. Taiwanese mnfr from 1987
- jv.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at
10:50 AM steve nicholson < steve@...>
wrote:
Well it has only taken 2 years for me to find a
good enough reason to make a table for use with the
bandsaw in the vertical position AND sort out the
table alignment.
Thank you John, I can confirm that fitting a large
shim between the top of the guide arm and the frame
casting solved the table being square to the blade.
I haven't bothered with fitting set screws at the
moment, I don't move the lower arm so the shim will
work fine for now.
I've attached a photo of the current small table
I've made. It is 6mm (1/4") stainless (roughly 100mm
x 80mm), the inside edge is angled to the blade and
the outside edge is parallel with the blade. I can
use the saw in the horizontal and vertical positions
with the table in place. I had to grind a small
amount off the front of the angled edge to clear the
frame in the horizontal position (my wood prototype
cleared but may have been warped).
The idea of the small table with the angle on one
side, is to allow a larger table with locating
guides/rails to slide on and lock into place with
the tapper on the small table (still to be tested).
I mentioned the table alignment problem to a friend
with a similar bandsaw, he checked his and said his
was the same, he is keen to make a small table and
fix his alignment now he has seen mine.
So thank you again John Vreede for all you help and
knowledge you share on these bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve Nicholson wrote:
Thanks for the information John, I'll take
another look at the arm and try a packing shim to
see how that works for me. Probably be next week
before I get a chance to look at it properly.
Thanks again and have a wonderful day all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John Vreede wrote:
Arghhh..... Wrong way
round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this morning early to write
the previous post before going on my regular
Wednesday walking group and marked up the sawframe
casting to photograph it for you and got it
backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews in at the bottom
of the casting (where the circle with the dot is
in that photo), where you
should need to put the grub-screws in at the top,
not me.
I moved the bottom of my guide arm out <1mm, I
suggest you trial adding about 1.5mm of shim
between the arm and the casting at the back of the
slot as shown in the photo attached.
If that squares up your table then you can drill
& tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv
|
Re: Old... motorbikes and watermelon wine
??? ??? I'm gonna keep working on him for the TL125 , but after
he replaces the neck on my 46 Harley frame .
??? ??? animal
On 11/5/2022 9:16 PM, John Vreede
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
TL125 was a sweet bike. My brother had one with a Powroll 145 kit
in it - felt like it could climb trees.??
Far and away the best classic motoX magazine is 'VMX - Vintage
Motocross & Dirt Bike Quarterly' out of Australia though it
has many US contributors and advertisers (and subscribers I
guess), check it out on ?Real
slick production, great photography, thick glossy paper etc.?
Latest one covers the NS750 and RS750 Honda flat trackers of the
mid 80's, Ryan Villopoto's YZ250A, and maybe 6-7 other bikes in
quite a bit of detail + lots of other stuff.?
The other one you won't have heard of from down here is 'Old Bike
Australasia', ()?
which is a cut above most of the English classic bike mags. - jv
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
Indirectly, yes, it reduces the weight.?
It slows the feed rate, which causes the teeth to cut less deeply, or more simply, not cut the full depth of the teeth into the workpiece as the blade rakes across it.?
Where this is most beneficial, is when cutting thin-wall tubing, and small workpieces, where only one tooth, or very few teeth, are engaging the workpiece simultaneously. Excessive pressure, easy to do without a downfeed control, with only a few teeth
into the workpiece, will damage and break the teeth. It can also damage the workpiece. ?
Other Bill
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Nov 6, 2022, at 4:55 PM, Melvin Gale <melvinsgale@...> wrote:
?
Hydraulic down feed control is the way to go. It was a major reason I bought the Grizzly saw, as it came with one.
My opinion, if you do much cutting, build one, or get one!
I'm not?clear on this: how does it help?? by decreasing? the? weight pressing on saw blade?
On Sun, Nov 6, 2022 at 9:06 AM Bill Armstrong < bill_1955@...> wrote:
Hydraulic down feed control is the way to go. It was a major reason I bought the Grizzly saw, as it came with one.
My opinion, if you do much cutting, build one, or get one!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 3:36 PM, David Pidwerbecki wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]
I buy the expensive blades from Harbor Freight and haven’t ever had an issue. ? It was convenient to buy them-I was in the store for something else.? I bought a roll of blade and tried to weld my own by a butt joint blade resistance welder, but the weld joints
would fail over time. ? I think the radius is too tight on the 4x6, for I use the same welder for my 14x8 vertical bandsaw with no issues.
I built my own hydraulic down feed and use a 10-14 TPI blade.
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
I think of the hydraulic cylinder as a method to regulate the force on the blade teeth. ? I have a needle valve that only allows a certain flow rate (I’m pretty sure it is choked flow over the range of pressures I control during operation). ? This means that the flow rate and bow descent is pretty much independent of bow location. ? Note, the pressure across the valve is greatest right before the saw shuts off.
The choked flow makes a much more uniform feed rate and the tooth loading is much more uniform, which should extend blade life.
i haven’t done the detailed calculations for the choked flow, but I think I’m right.
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
Hydraulic down feed control is the way to go. It was a major reason I bought the Grizzly saw, as it came with one. My opinion, if you do much cutting, build one, or get one!
I'm not?clear on this: how does it help?? by decreasing? the? weight pressing on saw blade?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sun, Nov 6, 2022 at 9:06 AM Bill Armstrong < bill_1955@...> wrote:
Hydraulic down feed control is the way to go. It was a major reason
I bought the Grizzly saw, as it came with one.
My opinion, if you do much cutting, build one, or get one!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 3:36 PM, David Pidwerbecki
wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]
I buy the expensive blades from Harbor Freight and haven’t ever
had an issue. ? It was convenient to buy them-I was in the store
for something else.? I bought a roll of blade and tried to weld my
own by a butt joint blade resistance welder, but the weld joints
would fail over time. ? I think the radius is too tight on the
4x6, for I use the same welder for my 14x8 vertical bandsaw with
no issues.
I built my own hydraulic down feed and use a 10-14 TPI blade.
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
I did a number of projects on my Bandsaw. ? I think my list of most impactful to least impactful is as follows:
1. ? Create a new stand ( I used a Little Giant mobile table) 2. ? Install a hydraulic down feed ( I built my own) 3. ? Fix vise to cut short pieces, etc. through a rod to maintain vise planarity. 4. ? Adjust table and vise to cut square. ? This involved making a new pivot shaft to decrease runout in pivot bushings, filing the table, making a stationary jaw stop, etc. ? This was the most difficult modification to complete. 5. ? Build table to set piece length and keep pieces from falling 6. ? Add motor starter to protect motor from stalling and overheating. 7. ? Add blade scraper? 8. ? Add blade lubrication 9. ? Modify blade guides for easy adjustment? 10. ?Add table LED light 11. ?Add table extension/cylinder protection 12. ?Add blade brush? 13. ?Modify blade tensioner? 14. ?Modify gearbox for ease of filling/synthetic oil
im sure that I’m missing something. ? I am thinking about making a jig to hold smaller pieces and allow precision set-up on the bench. ? This jig can be clamped into the saw.
I have photos of the mods in the photo section.
|