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Plastic gearbox cover - that's a novel idea. Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube

Harbor Freight might be able to help you out if you call them and order the part. Grizzly may also. In both cases I'd assume you'll have to cough up for the part, of course. Check the manual for

Little Machine Shop (www.littlemachineshop.com) has a nice page on selecting bandsaw blades for different purposes. Check it out here: http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Info/bandsaw.php They also

I have a 4 X 6 Taiwan bandsaw Ohio-Forge and the larger of the two worm gears is shot. Anyone know of a source for parts ? Herman

Guys, Thanks for the replies on the saw blade. It cuts 5 times faster than the stock blade. I'd recomend getting a bi-metal and chucking the stock one. What an improvement. Barry

Hi,My name is Ed and I've made about five cuts with my new saw. Has anyone figured a good way to install a chip brush like I've seen on some of the higher end saws? It seems this would keep many of

--- In 4x6bandsaw@y..., dswr@w... wrote: Another thing to check with a new blade is the tension. I was cutting .75" x 1.75" 303 stainless bar. When I started cutting, the blade was properly

Barry, One thing to check on a new blade... make sure the teeth are pointing in the right direction. On one of the H.F. blades, they were reversed. Easy to fix, just turn the blade inside out. Leo

Great, Just thought it should have looked different. I'm going to hack up some 3" stock with it today. Thank You Leo Barry (Down South in the sub-tropical swampy paradise of BatonRouge!)

I bought some carbon steel blades from Harbor Freight and some bi-metal blades from Enco. Appearance wise, they look the about the same. Leo (down south in pearland)

Hello All, I just got a Grizzly G5113 blade for my HF 4X6. Does a Bi-metal blade look any different than the stock blade? Are these Grizzly ones a quality product? Thanks, Barry

I cut most brass and aluminum dry. However, if the cut will be a large one where heat will be of a concern, I lubricate the blade with paraffin wax. This collects on the workpiece at the cut site..

Robert, dry cutting is sure cleaner than liquid, I got the Starret blade they last real good, my motor burnt the second time I used it, put a flea market motor and run it with one pulley only, they

I never use any type of cutting or cooling fluid on mine. I regularly cut through 3.5" 1018 cold rolled steel rounds dry and have had no problems. I use the middle speed setting and a 14 tpi

I can put the measurements in the files if you think some might want to copy it, the small part that goes around the pulling wheel cathes a lot of metal, the rubbermaid is a good idea, saw some

snedi, I have used WD40, LPS,kerosine, I have mine set up with a pump, a large canister fuel filter, settleing bowl before the filter, using the karosine now, I am about ready to take all that

Thanks for uploading the pics. The chip pan idea looks neat. I was thinking of using a rubbermaid pan and mounting it to the bottom of the base casting. Thanks agaain. saw new have

Does any one on this list use cutting fluid when cutting steel with your bandsaw? If so, what do you use, or recommend for it? I'll be cutting some bar stock soon and was curious what folks were

Hey fellows I will post a pic of the chip pan that come with the saw that I got form the scrap your, would be neat to build for these new ones, there is a lot more quality in this old saw that the

Jim, I got it today, found out that It belonged to the School Board and they don't do repairs anymore, contracted out, I took the stand off and will mount it on a stand that I have already made,