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?I have a benchtop mini-mill with a rotary table for milling curves or drilling out precise bolt hole circles and such. Rotary Table from LittleMachineShop.com So my idea would be: Instead of

Unless I'm missing something Dave your saw is the same as most everyone else's, and I was talking about something else entirely Let's define some terms first: The guide assembly is made up of a guide

Hi John- My saw is an '85 Packard with a capacity greater than most 4x6s (there are photos of it in the photo section under Packard).? I may have something similar to what you mention:? the roller

Dave, just trying to decipher what you've said. Have you got one of those old HF 'Greenie' saws with the one-piece cast alloy guide assemblies sliding on the outside of the sawframe casting, where the

While I was waiting for new blades from sawblade.com to arrive this week, I spent some quality time with my saw and discovered that there was a lot of gunk between the blade guide bar and the slot it

Exactly.? I don't particularly like that arrangement because if you aren't careful you could get the "proper" clearance adjustment but be in a less than ideal situation.? I know because I was

Oops , I went back over his posts , he said there were 2 on one and one on the other . -- Snag In 1775, the British demanded we give them our guns. We shot them.

You're right there is no reason to have 2 on one guide and none on the other. Tony's photos showed both guides adjusted snug, and you can't do that with no eccentrics so I assume there are eccentrics

Why would they use 2 eccentrics on one guide bar and none on the other ? I thought perhaps some previous owner might have mixed them up and put one on the wrong guide bar . -- Snag In 1775, the

Some saws have eccentrics on both sides of the blade like my old UC115 (and I think Tony's) and others have them only on the outside like yours. Better made ones normally have only one, where not so

Well you could look at it a different way. The table IS square to the blade, it is just the wrong shape.

My saw blade is adjusted to where it cuts straight in the horizontal position. That is where I do alost all my cutting. That is what it is built to do. If I wanted to make my table perfectly square to

You mentioned in an earlier post that both eccentric blade guide rollers were on one guide . My saw has one on each guide bar , and I'm surprised that no one else has commented on this . That in

As I said, I do want to use a fence and that's a ton easier if the table is square to the blade. And @Other Bill......it's definitely not that easy to fix using either the OE range of adjustment or

Thanks, John, excellent description!? And thanks for all of yours and everyone else's input, much appreciated.

Me three! It’s what I mentioned at the get-go, since my saw has that out-of-squareness too, and….I don’t care, it doesn’t bother me. If it did, it’s easy enough to fix! Other Bill Sent:

I agree with you. Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS

I must be missing something here. Why do you care if the blade is square to the table? Unless you are using a fence or jig do you really care, and if you are using one of them, why not just build it

If you clamp a thin flat 6" rule to the side of the blade-body (above the teeth!) as in 'Adjusting the bearing guide seats...' bottom of pg14 of the Wilton 5x8 manual in the Files section (called

I actually did have a "reverse slot" table but recently went back to the OE table because I am starting to change blades more often.? It had the same issue but that's probably because I used the OE