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"But, I would think that if the motor is stalled it would draw "locked rotor amps" and this ought to trip a properly selected overload or fuse pretty much immediately. Not so?" Not so. A motor draws

NEC permits breakers controlling motor loads to be sized up to 250% of the locked rotor amperes. Motor could sit their all day long and cook, and the breaker wouldn't trip. Motor overload protection

Alans comments get to the heart of my uncertainty with overload protection and why I thought the Arduino solution would be preferable. I'm very much interested in John and Jim's responses to Alan's

This is interesting information. I am NOT an electrical engineer and claim no expertise in motor protection. Certain things jump out: Many cheap Asian motors don't have enough information on the

My stock Horror Freight 4x6 is TEFC. I just went out and confirmed. The motor is finned and there is a fan shroud over the rear. When running, the fan blows air over the fins for cooling. It does not

Those overload relays are intended to be used with an external contactor that actually controls the motor I would not really want to use that overload contact to control any motor drawing over ~1.5A @

Good point Alan, the TE motors at least restrict the access to oxygen to start a fire and the '....molten metal, burning insulation etc' bit Jim quoted would be covered. However I don't know of any

Do you consider that totally enclosed motors (TEFC) pose less of a safety hazard than open (actually shielded) motors? It seems likely that an enclosed motor would be less likely to spew sparks and

Good info, thanks Alan, I'll follow that up. Arduino is cheap enough if from China, but not $12-cheap. Arron, if your blade comes off easily, although it's a 'safety feature' it must be very

I've had a Horror Freight 4x6 for several years. I leave it plugged in all the time. I've had no trouble with the electrical. I've seen evidence that some motor manufacturers in China strip out

John Wrote “Don't think you should be concerned with UL certification and such. Induction motors have been around for 100yrs or so and the things that make them fail aren't tested for in UL anyway

I don'r know of any power tool that needs overload protection more than these saws. They are often run unattended and can easily jam. But overload protection can easily enough be added to a

You are correct , the motor on mine is s Griz and it does have TO protection . I too burned my original up while cutting unattended . -- Snag

I never have to worry about that. My blade gets much resistance and it comes loose at the drop of a hat.

Don't think you should be concerned with UL certification and such.? Induction motors have been around for 100yrs or so and the things that make them fail aren't tested for in UL anyway You are only

I believe the ma

I haven't forgotten about this, and have gotten sidetracked a bit as I spent most of my budget on other items I needed (clearance tool cabinet and shop lights) I've seen some comments about motors

Hi Guys I've revised the documents on 'Fixing vertical squareness...' and "Buying a used 4x6...' and they ARE added to the Files section. If you're in the habit of copying docs to your home drive then

I purchased the SawCyl with the pressure gauge to go on a 2004 vintage Taiwanese mfg. Harbor Freight saw. This version has the tension spring hooked to an 8mm bolt on the pivot arm so I drilled out

As an alternative to making or buying new parts to go under the tension knob, you can also use a die grinder and files to spotface the area around the hole to make it perpendicular to the hole