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Thanks Paolo. The thing didn't come with any instructions so that's a good start - jv

How about repurposing a microwave transformer instead of making your own. There is a ton of information on the wed about cutting the secondary windings off a salvaged microwave transformer for home

My suggestion for mastering the annealing is to try it in dim light and get a feel of how long and how frequently you need to push the button to get the blade to start to turn dark red: when you get

I think the plans are from a Popular Mechanics book my father had 60 yrs ago, so it's pretty old technology. Recently I got given a relatively new stand alone band saw blade welder that had some

Thanks, luckily I have a friend with a welder and he has been machinest for fifty so knows what he is doing. Ralph [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:

Ralph, The challenge with both welding and brazing blades is that the blade cools down very quickly, becoming brittle. After some frustration with brazing, due mostly to mistakes already pointed out

Bruce why anneal after? Where does any hardness come from unless you are quenching the joint after welding? I like your method, that is how I will do it when I get around to doing it. You can do the

I have found that a tapered (scarf) joint of about 3/16" long and silver solder is stronger than the original weld.? I take either a ribbon of 55% silver solder or a round piece hammered flat and I

They also can be used to make awesome electro magnets for mag-chucks. YouTube has many how to vids showing the various uses of old microwaves. Beware the magnetron! ?Best regards and God

An old microwave will provide a transformer that is easy to rewind. The primary an secondary are separated. The core is rated to at least 600W You remove the fine wired secondary winding, cut

ac9459427, where are you located? Someone in the neighborhood might have a welder. Ralph 4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:

I have been attempting to repair broken blades using silver solder and a torch. Results have been somewhat uneven. Some blades held up pretty well while others broke again at the joint. I did some

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the 4x6bandsaw group. File : /KingCanadaKc128CbS4UsersManual.pdf Uploaded by

Bill's right on the money. Slower to cut by about 25-30% (removing .035/.025X material), more tension to get it to cut properly, more load on bearings, crack more readily (doesn't like the smaller

I wouldn’t suggest it. You may get away with the thicker blade but it will likely fatigue much faster

Well….a .035 blade will work, but is not ideal on a small saw. Thicker blade does not bend as easily. The worst is the twist required to turn 90 degrees from the blade guide to the drive wheel.

Hello all. I ordered blades for my Jet 4x6 on sawblade.com and the selector showed .25 & .35 thickness compatibility. I should looked at the manual first as it shows it is specified for only .25. I

Hi Glen Just been pondering your reply to removing the slop. You shouldn't have to use a clamp to get the pivot arm snug against the base pivot ears. At least not so much that there is any

Hi moto Sorry I didn't get back to you earlier, I've been out of the country. I take it you're talking about the blade-to-guideroller clearance. There are 2 different schools of thought on this,

Glen, take a look at the attached document. CarlH Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2019 10:07 AM To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: How to remove slop from arm pivot Thanks JV, I