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Hi all There was a part of this thread that wasn't being covered (until Gerry chimed in!) about the effects of the build-up that liquid coolant/lube causes and what to do about it. My experience is

Hi Jack. Yes it is indeed a possiblty but I've had my saw for about ten years now, used wth intermittent (spray) lube on steel and never had an issue with swarf on the wheels. I did contemplate early

I may have tried a little oil a time or two but not enough to remember.

I’ve cut structural steel, mild steel, stainless, aluminum, railroad rail, PVC, delrin, HDPE marine plastic and wood all dry with an Irwin bi-metal blade with no problems and excellent blade life. I

Sometimes the simplest ideas work best!? Looks good to me!

I have made a gravity fed oiler system that keeps the blade coated in oil, see: http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/bandsaw-blade-lubricator.html

I use sulfured cutting oil for all steel cuts, kerosene for thick aluminum cuts. Dry for brass, phenolic, nylon, etc. My volumes are low, so I just apply with an acid brush. Richard Marchi 600 Water

99.9% of the time I cut dry. I typically only cut mild steel and aluminum. Largest solid i've ever cut was ~5" round mild steel - no coolant (pull up a chair, it will take a while). I only use

Anything is possible I will have to let someone more in the know answer that.? I suspect it doesn't make that big a difference. Good luck!

I’ve avoided dripping coolant on my blade for fear that whatever I use would stick to the driving wheels and hold swarf to them. Is this not a possibility?

I use a water soluble coolant in a spray bottle and mist as needed while sawing. I'm not cutting anything major, 2 inch diameter is probably my biggest.

Personally I don't really think it is an either/or question, you should use cutting oil at all times when cutting mild steel regardless of the type of blade you are using. Oil will make the cut much

I use nothing but bi-metal blades. Mostly Irwin now, but I was using Lennox. I generally cut dry. If I’m cutting large diameters, 3” and above, and several pieces, I will use mist coolant. Flood

Opinions on whether cutting with a bi-metal dry blade, or a carbon lubed blade (cutting oil or similar oiling setup) is better for mild steel cuts?

I have the 4x6 sold by HF, and as others here have said, it required a bit of fiddling to get it going. ? But otherwise it's been flawless. I did toss away the flimsy sheet metal legs, and mounted on

I have a "Federal" branded model that's a little different from most 4x6 saws. It was made in 1982, but I've only had it for two years. ?Prior to that, almost all my cutting was by hand with a

OK ! Glad to get all those replies, as I'm looking at purchasing a used JET 4x6 (I have not looked at it yet, but will be doing that soon). I had a 4x6 some time ago, and wasn't using it much at all,

I watch this forum regularly. I have a NorthernTool (sub $200) 4x6 band saw. It's castings were so poor it made the HF look like a silk purse......if that tells you anything. However, I have modified

I have a 'National' model 4x6 that is pretty close to 40 years old. I have replaced some of the worn out parts on it with Jet, HF and even home shop made parts if needed. Takes a little adjusting on

I have used a Jet 4 x 6 for ten years or so.? Its okay but like all the little machines it has problems from time to time with wanting to throw blades.? Realign, tune it up and carry on.? I