Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
Well you could look at it a different way. The table IS square to
the blade, it is just the wrong shape.
?I have a benchtop mini-mill with a rotary table for milling
curves or drilling out precise bolt hole circles and such.
So my idea would be: Instead of drilling two counter sunk holes
in the upright cutting table for the two mounting screws that hold
the table down, I would mill out two 'counter sunk" curved slots
there instead, sort of like parenthesis. I.E. - Curved mounting slots
instead of holes, ( and ) instead of? * and *. Lightly snug the
table's mounting screws into their curved slots, and then bump /
rotate / adjust the table until it is square with how the blade
wants to cut, and then tighten them down firmly.? DONE. I suppose
swarf would want to collect down in those little curved mounting
slots, but if you really wanted a table that is square to the
blade, in order to be able to run a nice cutting guide fence and
such, then a simple chip brush and a shop vac would do for any
minor additional clean up.
?A possible advancement of some very limited use from time to
time, would be the then built in ability to purposely rotate the
cutting table with it's guide fence to some carefully measured and
set angle off of square, like to perhaps cut one side at a say, 0
to maybe 30 degree angle from the other. (Why you would want to do
that I dunno, but rarely is not never. :-)
?Of course, instead of two curved mounting slots for adjusting
the entire table, you could drill / mill just one mounting slot in
the end of the cutting table's fence (the fence's curved mounting
slot would be out towards the end of the fence in front of the
blade), in order to then adjust only the guide fence until
it is square with the blade. Same difference in the end as far as
cutting straight lines.
?Just thinking out loud. Food for thought. :-)
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Unless I'm missing something Dave your saw is the same as most everyone else's, and I was talking about something else entirely? Let's define some terms first: The guide assembly is made up of a guide bar that slides in the sawframe casting.? A?guide bracket that holds all the rollers is bolted on top of the guide bar with a wide/shallow tongue&groove?joint. There is a 5/16' UNC bolt that fixes the two together. From the look of the photos you've posted, there may not be much, if any, rotation adjustment in your guide bracket-to-guide bar joint.
It is rotation of this joint around the axis of the fixing bolt that twists the blade square to the vice table.? If you have not enough rotational movement to get the blade square (quite a common problem), then working with a file on the edges of the tongue will give it to you. You don't?need to remove much, just a triangle of metal from the corners that are touching the guide bar groove which ever way it needs to rotate. Now I figure you were talking about set screws in the edge of the groove like the attached photo. The std groove is too shallow for even 1/8" set screws so you need to mill it deeper. These are 0.200". Don't put the screws too closer to the ends as the joint still has to slide fore&aft.? 1/4" bolt in back is to so you maintain the set blade back to rer roller clearance while adjusting blade twist.? You really need to have good way of seeing that blade is perfectly at right angles to the vice table surface like flat 6" rule clipped to the blade back - jv ??
On Sun, Apr 18, 2021 at 10:10 AM Dave Seiter < d.seiter@...> wrote:
Hi John-
My saw is an '85 Packard with a capacity greater than most 4x6s (there are photos of it in the photo section under Packard).? I may have something similar to what you mention:? the roller guide assemblies have a channel cut into them, so when bolted onto the guide bars, they are fixed and have no adjustment.? (It's all cast iron)? The only real adjustments my saw has are blade tension, down feed, horizontal guide location and the guide cams.?
I was tired when I wrote it last night, so confusion is very understandable.? I did get the blade square to the table, at least as well as can be seen in bad light with only 1/2" to compare.? While I like the idea of set screws for adjustment, you're right about potentially bending/ twisting the guide bars.? Three per side would work (with the middle one next to the hand wheel), but then adjustments would become tiresome.? The double sided tape is a great idea, as I have a many rolls of stainless shin stock.? Even aluminum duct tape would work.? I've never seen the peel-away stuff before; that's good to know about!
-Dave
On Saturday, April 17, 2021, 02:07:47 PM PDT, John Vreede < vreededesign@...> wrote:
Dave, just trying to decipher what you've said. Have you got one of those old HF 'Greenie' saws with the one-piece cast alloy guide assemblies sliding on the outside of the sawframe casting, where the guide brackets carrying the rollers are not adjustable on the guide bars? If yes, then shimming the bar off the raised tracks on the sawframe casting is a good idea.? I have also seen people?put set screws into the casting to get some adjustment. Bit?puzzled by you?getting an 'almost?perfect' cut, if the angle of the blade-body is not square to the vice table. The only problem with setscrews?is that they provide a point loading on the guide bars and will dent the soft alloy and more likely, twist/bend the guide bars as you tighten, unless they're right next to the clamping handwheel.? I think a strip of shim will be better at transferring?the load.? You can get shim that is made up of?leaves of 0.001" that you peel away until you get the right thickness, like this from McMasterCarr?.? Just stick it to the casting with double sided tape. The aluminium stuff is cheapest though you can get it in brass, steel and stainless too.? If your guides are aluminium there's no point in anything more expensive - jv On Sat, Apr 17, 2021 at 5:47 PM Dave Seiter < d.seiter@...> wrote:
While I was waiting for new blades from to arrive this week, I spent some quality time with my saw and discovered that there was a lot of gunk between the blade guide bar and the slot it fits into (the one closer to the hinge end of the saw).? Cleaning it up actually straightened the blade out a bit, but only by a degree or two.? I tried inverting the blade too, but it didn't make any difference.? ?When the new blades showed up today, they still cut at an angle, so I knew it wasn't the blade.? I thought about shimming the blade guides to change the angle of the blade, but that wouldn't fix the problem, just the symptoms.? I adjusted the cams, and it cut a little straighter, but after about a minute of cutting some aluminum, the blade suddenly stopped.? One of the bearings had broken (a chunk fell out of the outer race!) and the dust caps had popped off.? Obviously way too tight.? Another set of bearings was swapped in, and then the blade wouldn't stay on the wheels.? This was going downhill fast, so I stepped back and realized that the best way to adjust the bearings was without the blade, and off the machine.? Much easier!? I only did one test cut, which was almost perfect, and left it to work on some other things.
Last week, when I checked the HF blade for squareness, it looked right on (both before and after I inverted it.).? Today when I checked the new blade, it was obviously not square, but both cut at the same angle before adjustment.? If further tweaking doesn't make it cut dead straight consistently, I'm thinking about adding set screws to channels the guide bars sit in so that the angle can be finely adjusted.
-Dave
|
Hi John-
My saw is an '85 Packard with a capacity greater than most 4x6s (there are photos of it in the photo section under Packard).? I may have something similar to what you mention:? the roller guide assemblies have a channel cut into them, so when bolted onto the guide bars, they are fixed and have no adjustment.? (It's all cast iron)? The only real adjustments my saw has are blade tension, down feed, horizontal guide location and the guide cams.?
I was tired when I wrote it last night, so confusion is very understandable.? I did get the blade square to the table, at least as well as can be seen in bad light with only 1/2" to compare.? While I like the idea of set screws for adjustment, you're right about potentially bending/ twisting the guide bars.? Three per side would work (with the middle one next to the hand wheel), but then adjustments would become tiresome.? The double sided tape is a great idea, as I have a many rolls of stainless shin stock.? Even aluminum duct tape would work.? I've never seen the peel-away stuff before; that's good to know about!
-Dave
On Saturday, April 17, 2021, 02:07:47 PM PDT, John Vreede <vreededesign@...> wrote:
Dave, just trying to decipher what you've said. Have you got one of those old HF 'Greenie' saws with the one-piece cast alloy guide assemblies sliding on the outside of the sawframe casting, where the guide brackets carrying the rollers are not adjustable on the guide bars? If yes, then shimming the bar off the raised tracks on the sawframe casting is a good idea.? I have also seen people?put set screws into the casting to get some adjustment. Bit?puzzled by you?getting an 'almost?perfect' cut, if the angle of the blade-body is not square to the vice table. The only problem with setscrews?is that they provide a point loading on the guide bars and will dent the soft alloy and more likely, twist/bend the guide bars as you tighten, unless they're right next to the clamping handwheel.? I think a strip of shim will be better at transferring?the load.? You can get shim that is made up of?leaves of 0.001" that you peel away until you get the right thickness, like this from McMasterCarr?.? Just stick it to the casting with double sided tape. The aluminium stuff is cheapest though you can get it in brass, steel and stainless too.? If your guides are aluminium there's no point in anything more expensive - jv
On Sat, Apr 17, 2021 at 5:47 PM Dave Seiter < d.seiter@...> wrote:
While I was waiting for new blades from to arrive this week, I spent some quality time with my saw and discovered that there was a lot of gunk between the blade guide bar and the slot it fits into (the one closer to the hinge end of the saw).? Cleaning it up actually straightened the blade out a bit, but only by a degree or two.? I tried inverting the blade too, but it didn't make any difference.? ?When the new blades showed up today, they still cut at an angle, so I knew it wasn't the blade.? I thought about shimming the blade guides to change the angle of the blade, but that wouldn't fix the problem, just the symptoms.? I adjusted the cams, and it cut a little straighter, but after about a minute of cutting some aluminum, the blade suddenly stopped.? One of the bearings had broken (a chunk fell out of the outer race!) and the dust caps had popped off.? Obviously way too tight.? Another set of bearings was swapped in, and then the blade wouldn't stay on the wheels.? This was going downhill fast, so I stepped back and realized that the best way to adjust the bearings was without the blade, and off the machine.? Much easier!? I only did one test cut, which was almost perfect, and left it to work on some other things.
Last week, when I checked the HF blade for squareness, it looked right on (both before and after I inverted it.).? Today when I checked the new blade, it was obviously not square, but both cut at the same angle before adjustment.? If further tweaking doesn't make it cut dead straight consistently, I'm thinking about adding set screws to channels the guide bars sit in so that the angle can be finely adjusted.
-Dave
|
Dave, just trying to decipher what you've said. Have you got one of those old HF 'Greenie' saws with the one-piece cast alloy guide assemblies sliding on the outside of the sawframe casting, where the guide brackets carrying the rollers are not adjustable on the guide bars? If yes, then shimming the bar off the raised tracks on the sawframe casting is a good idea.? I have also seen people?put set screws into the casting to get some adjustment. Bit?puzzled by you?getting an 'almost?perfect' cut, if the angle of the blade-body is not square to the vice table. The only problem with setscrews?is that they provide a point loading on the guide bars and will dent the soft alloy and more likely, twist/bend the guide bars as you tighten, unless they're right next to the clamping handwheel.? I think a strip of shim will be better at transferring?the load.? You can get shim that is made up of?leaves of 0.001" that you peel away until you get the right thickness, like this from McMasterCarr?.? Just stick it to the casting with double sided tape. The aluminium stuff is cheapest though you can get it in brass, steel and stainless too.? If your guides are aluminium there's no point in anything more expensive - jv
On Sat, Apr 17, 2021 at 5:47 PM Dave Seiter < d.seiter@...> wrote:
While I was waiting for new blades from to arrive this week, I spent some quality time with my saw and discovered that there was a lot of gunk between the blade guide bar and the slot it fits into (the one closer to the hinge end of the saw).? Cleaning it up actually straightened the blade out a bit, but only by a degree or two.? I tried inverting the blade too, but it didn't make any difference.? ?When the new blades showed up today, they still cut at an angle, so I knew it wasn't the blade.? I thought about shimming the blade guides to change the angle of the blade, but that wouldn't fix the problem, just the symptoms.? I adjusted the cams, and it cut a little straighter, but after about a minute of cutting some aluminum, the blade suddenly stopped.? One of the bearings had broken (a chunk fell out of the outer race!) and the dust caps had popped off.? Obviously way too tight.? Another set of bearings was swapped in, and then the blade wouldn't stay on the wheels.? This was going downhill fast, so I stepped back and realized that the best way to adjust the bearings was without the blade, and off the machine.? Much easier!? I only did one test cut, which was almost perfect, and left it to work on some other things.
Last week, when I checked the HF blade for squareness, it looked right on (both before and after I inverted it.).? Today when I checked the new blade, it was obviously not square, but both cut at the same angle before adjustment.? If further tweaking doesn't make it cut dead straight consistently, I'm thinking about adding set screws to channels the guide bars sit in so that the angle can be finely adjusted.
-Dave
|
While I was waiting for new blades from sawblade.com to arrive this week, I spent some quality time with my saw and discovered that there was a lot of gunk between the blade guide bar and the slot it fits into (the one closer to the hinge end of the saw).? Cleaning it up actually straightened the blade out a bit, but only by a degree or two.? I tried inverting the blade too, but it didn't make any difference.? ?When the new blades showed up today, they still cut at an angle, so I knew it wasn't the blade.? I thought about shimming the blade guides to change the angle of the blade, but that wouldn't fix the problem, just the symptoms.? I adjusted the cams, and it cut a little straighter, but after about a minute of cutting some aluminum, the blade suddenly stopped.? One of the bearings had broken (a chunk fell out of the outer race!) and the dust caps had popped off.? Obviously way too tight.? Another set of bearings was swapped in, and then the blade wouldn't stay on the wheels.? This was going downhill fast, so I stepped back and realized that the best way to adjust the bearings was without the blade, and off the machine.? Much easier!? I only did one test cut, which was almost perfect, and left it to work on some other things.
Last week, when I checked the HF blade for squareness, it looked right on (both before and after I inverted it.).? Today when I checked the new blade, it was obviously not square, but both cut at the same angle before adjustment.? If further tweaking doesn't make it cut dead straight consistently, I'm thinking about adding set screws to channels the guide bars sit in so that the angle can be finely adjusted.
-Dave
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Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
Exactly.? I don't particularly like that arrangement because if you aren't careful you could get the "proper" clearance adjustment but be in a less than ideal situation.? I know because I was concentrating on clearance and got everything just right and tightened up and just happened to look back from the front side of the blade and saw that one bearing was high and the other was much lower.? It would have forced the blade to make kinda an S-turn through those bearings.?
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Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
On 4/16/2021 10:37 PM, John Vreede wrote: You're right there is no reason to have 2 on one guide and none on the other.
Oops , I went back over his posts , he said there were 2 on one and one on the other . -- Snag In 1775, the British demanded we give them our guns. We shot them.
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Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
You're right there is no reason to have 2 on one guide and none on the other. Tony's photos showed both guides adjusted snug, and you can't do that with no eccentrics so I assume there are eccentrics on both sides of both guides - jv
On Sat, Apr 17, 2021 at 2:36 PM Terry Coombs < snagone@...> wrote: On 4/16/2021 8:27 PM, John Vreede wrote:
> Some saws have eccentrics on both sides of the blade like my old UC115
> (and I think Tony's) and others have them only on the outside like yours.
> Better made ones normally have only one, where not so good have two
> eccentrics (Bean counters like that, since have only one sku, and extra
> level of adjustability means it can cope with wider manufacturing
> tolerances)? - jv
? ?Why would they use 2 eccentrics on one guide bar and none on the
other ? I thought perhaps some previous owner might have mixed them up
and put one on the wrong guide bar .
--
Snag
In 1775, the British demanded we give them our guns.
We shot them.
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Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
On 4/16/2021 8:27 PM, John Vreede wrote: Some saws have eccentrics on both sides of the blade like my old UC115 (and I think Tony's) and others have them only on the outside like yours.
Better made ones normally have only one, where not so good have two eccentrics (Bean counters like that, since have only one sku, and extra level of adjustability means it can cope with wider manufacturing tolerances)? - jv Why would they use 2 eccentrics on one guide bar and none on the other ? I thought perhaps some previous owner might have mixed them up and put one on the wrong guide bar . -- Snag In 1775, the British demanded we give them our guns. We shot them.
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Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
Some saws have eccentrics on both sides of the blade like my old UC115 (and I think Tony's) and others have them only on the outside like yours. Better made ones normally have only one, where not so good have two eccentrics (Bean counters like that, since have only one sku, and extra level of adjustability means it can cope with wider manufacturing tolerances)? - jv
On Fri, 16 Apr 2021, 11:54 pm Terry Coombs, < snagone@...> wrote: On 4/16/2021 3:07 AM, tonydi_499 wrote:
> As I said, I do want to use a fence and that's a ton easier if the table
> is square to the blade.
>
> And @Other Bill......it's definitely not that easy to fix using either
> the OE range of adjustment or even after modifying the guides. If I were
> still using this saw in the horizontal position it would make very
> crooked cuts.
>
? ?You mentioned in an earlier post that both eccentric blade guide
rollers were on one guide . My saw has one on each guide bar , and I'm
surprised that no one else has commented on this . That in itself may be
a root cause of your problem . I'd suggest you swap one of those
bearings to the other guide bar , and make sure both eccentrics are on
the same side of the blade .
--
Snag
In 1775, the British demanded we give them our guns.
We shot them.
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Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
Well you could look at it a different way. The table IS square to the blade, it is just the wrong shape.
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Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
My saw blade is adjusted to where it cuts straight in the horizontal position. That is where I do alost all my cutting.
That is what it is built to do.
If I wanted to make my table perfectly square to the blade, since it’s not due to the location of the two holes in the guide, then I would have to ‘move’ one mounting hole in
the table where it attaches.
Then could be done, by milling a hole into a short slot in the table. Then I could square it, when I install it. If blade adjustment changed the position of the blade, it wouldn’t
matter.
?
That’s pretty easy.
?
Other Bill
?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of tonydi_499
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2021 1:07 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
?
As I said, I do want to use a fence and that's a ton easier if the table is square to the blade.
And @Other Bill......it's definitely not that easy to fix using either the OE range of adjustment or even after modifying the guides. If I were still using this saw in the horizontal position it would make very crooked cuts.
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Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
On 4/16/2021 3:07 AM, tonydi_499 wrote: As I said, I do want to use a fence and that's a ton easier if the table is square to the blade.
And @Other Bill......it's definitely not that easy to fix using either the OE range of adjustment or even after modifying the guides. If I were still using this saw in the horizontal position it would make very crooked cuts.
You mentioned in an earlier post that both eccentric blade guide rollers were on one guide . My saw has one on each guide bar , and I'm surprised that no one else has commented on this . That in itself may be a root cause of your problem . I'd suggest you swap one of those bearings to the other guide bar , and make sure both eccentrics are on the same side of the blade . -- Snag In 1775, the British demanded we give them our guns. We shot them.
|
Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
As I said, I do want to use a fence and that's a ton easier if the table is square to the blade.
And @Other Bill......it's definitely not that easy to fix using either the OE range of adjustment or even after modifying the guides. If I were still using this saw in the horizontal position it would make very crooked cuts.
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Re: Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
Thanks, John, excellent description!? And thanks for all of yours and everyone else's input, much appreciated.
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Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
Me three!
It’s what I mentioned at the get-go, since my saw has that out-of-squareness too, and….I don’t care, it doesn’t bother me.
If it did, it’s easy enough to fix!
?
Other Bill
?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of John H via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2021 2:33 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
?
I agree with you.
On Thursday, April 15, 2021, 12:41 PM, Jim.Klessig@... <jim.klessig@...> wrote:
I must be missing something here.? Why do you care if the blade is square to the table??
Unless you are using a fence or jig do you really care, and if you are using one of them, why not just build it square to the blade?
?
?
?
R James (Jim) Klessig P.E. | Senior Power Systems Engineer |
Electrical Reliability Services, VERTIV
jim.klessig@...,
jim_klessig@...
1876 Gwin Rd, Mckinleyville | CA | 95519 | USA
|
Cell (707) 497-9611 |
eFax
614-410-0653
?
?
If you clamp a thin flat 6" rule to the side of the blade-body (above the teeth!) as in 'Adjusting the bearing guide seats...' bottom of pg14 of the Wilton 5x8 manual in the Files
section (called m_3130.pdf), that will give you the direction on the blade.? A spring type clothes peg will do but the rule has to be very flat.
To mark the table screw positions, get a couple of 1/4"x20 UNC setscrews?(pointed is best but cone point will do) and screw them into the mounting?holes point up and leave protruding
10~20thou. ?
Position the table so the edge is parallel to the blade direction shown by the clipped on steel rule
Then tap the table over the set screws to leave a centre punch?mark to drill into?
In fact, do one hole first.? Mark, drill and countersink and fasten the table lightly on the guide bracket, then line it up with the clipped-on rule, before marking the second
hole - jv
?
On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 7:30 PM tonydi_499 <tonydi@...> wrote:
I actually did have a "reverse slot" table but recently went back to the OE table because I am starting to change blades more often.? It had the same issue but that's probably because I used the OE table as a template.?
I've seen a table just like Kerry's and really love the idea of the insert.? The only problem I have is envisioning how I can make the table so that it's aligned.? I want to use some sort of fence at times so the table needs to be perfectly squared.
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed and may contain confidential and privileged information protected by law. If you
received this e-mail in error, any review, use, dissemination, distribution, or copying of the e-mail is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies from your system.
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Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
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Show quoted text
On Thursday, April 15, 2021, 12:41 PM, Jim.Klessig@... <jim.klessig@...> wrote:
I must be missing something here.? Why do you care if the blade is square to the table??
Unless you are using a fence or jig do you really care, and if you are using one of them, why not just build it square to the blade?
?
?
?
R James (Jim) Klessig P.E. | Senior Power Systems Engineer |
Electrical Reliability Services, VERTIV
jim.klessig@...,
jim_klessig@...
1876 Gwin Rd, Mckinleyville | CA | 95519 | USA
|
Cell (707) 497-9611 |
eFax
614-410-0653
?
?
If you clamp a thin flat 6" rule to the side of the blade-body (above the teeth!) as in 'Adjusting the bearing guide seats...' bottom of pg14 of the Wilton 5x8 manual in the Files section (called
m_3130.pdf), that will give you the direction on the blade.? A spring type clothes peg will do but the rule has to be very flat.
To mark the table screw positions, get a couple of 1/4"x20 UNC setscrews?(pointed is best but cone point will do) and screw them into the mounting?holes point up and leave protruding 10~20thou.
?
Position the table so the edge is parallel to the blade direction shown by the clipped on steel rule
Then tap the table over the set screws to leave a centre punch?mark to drill into?
In fact, do one hole first.? Mark, drill and countersink and fasten the table lightly on the guide bracket, then line it up with the clipped-on rule, before marking the second hole - jv
?
On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 7:30 PM tonydi_499 <tonydi@...> wrote:
I actually did have a "reverse slot" table but recently went back to the OE table because I am starting to change blades more often.? It had the same issue but that's probably because I used the OE table as a template.?
I've seen a table just like Kerry's and really love the idea of the insert.? The only problem I have is envisioning how I can make the table so that it's aligned.? I want to use some sort of fence at times so the table needs to be perfectly squared.
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed and may contain confidential and privileged information protected by law. If you received this e-mail
in error, any review, use, dissemination, distribution, or copying of the e-mail is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies from your system.
|
Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
I must be missing something here.? Why do you care if the blade is square to the table??
Unless you are using a fence or jig do you really care, and if you are using one of them, why not just build it square to the blade?
?
?
?
R James (Jim) Klessig P.E. | Senior Power Systems Engineer |
Electrical Reliability Services, VERTIV
jim.klessig@...,
jim_klessig@...
1876 Gwin Rd, Mckinleyville | CA | 95519 | USA
|
Cell (707) 497-9611 |
eFax
614-410-0653
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of John Vreede
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2021 3:46 AM
To: [email protected] Group Moderators < [email protected]>
Subject: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
?
If you clamp a thin flat 6" rule to the side of the blade-body (above the teeth!) as in 'Adjusting the bearing guide seats...' bottom of pg14 of the Wilton 5x8 manual in the Files section (called
m_3130.pdf), that will give you the direction on the blade.? A spring type clothes peg will do but the rule has to be very flat.
To mark the table screw positions, get a couple of 1/4"x20 UNC setscrews?(pointed is best but cone point will do) and screw them into the mounting?holes point up and leave protruding 10~20thou.
?
Position the table so the edge is parallel to the blade direction shown by the clipped on steel rule
Then tap the table over the set screws to leave a centre punch?mark to drill into?
In fact, do one hole first.? Mark, drill and countersink and fasten the table lightly on the guide bracket, then line it up with the clipped-on rule, before marking the second hole - jv
?
On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 7:30 PM tonydi_499 <tonydi@...> wrote:
I actually did have a "reverse slot" table but recently went back to the OE table because I am starting to change blades more often.? It had the same issue but that's probably because I used the OE table as a template.?
I've seen a table just like Kerry's and really love the idea of the insert.? The only problem I have is envisioning how I can make the table so that it's aligned.? I want to use some sort of fence at times so the table needs to be perfectly squared.
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed and may contain confidential and privileged information protected by law. If you received this e-mail
in error, any review, use, dissemination, distribution, or copying of the e-mail is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies from your system.
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Re: Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
If you clamp a thin flat 6" rule to the side of the blade-body (above the teeth!) as in 'Adjusting the bearing guide seats...' bottom of pg14 of the Wilton 5x8 manual in the Files section (called m_3130.pdf), that will give you the direction on the blade.? A spring type clothes peg will do but the rule has to be very flat. To mark the table screw positions, get a couple of 1/4"x20 UNC setscrews?(pointed is best but cone point will do) and screw them into the mounting?holes point up and leave protruding 10~20thou. ? Position the table so the edge is parallel to the blade direction shown by the clipped on steel rule Then tap the table over the set screws to leave a centre punch?mark to drill into?
In fact, do one hole first.? Mark, drill and countersink and fasten the table lightly on the guide bracket, then line it up with the clipped-on rule, before marking the second hole
- jv
On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 7:30 PM tonydi_499 < tonydi@...> wrote: I actually did have a "reverse slot" table but recently went back to the OE table because I am starting to change blades more often.? It had the same issue but that's probably because I used the OE table as a template.?
I've seen a table just like Kerry's and really love the idea of the insert.? The only problem I have is envisioning how I can make the table so that it's aligned.? I want to use some sort of fence at times so the table needs to be perfectly squared.
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Re: Out of ideas to fix blade alignment
I actually did have a "reverse slot" table but recently went back to the OE table because I am starting to change blades more often.? It had the same issue but that's probably because I used the OE table as a template.?
I've seen a table just like Kerry's and really love the idea of the insert.? The only problem I have is envisioning how I can make the table so that it's aligned.? I want to use some sort of fence at times so the table needs to be perfectly squared.
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John Vreede
