They changed them slowly, like 6 capscrews at a time which was a major pain.?
Put a clutch in a ‘92 F350. You’ll have every tool you own laying on the ground pulling the transmission.?
Just removing the drive lines took a coupe metric wrenches, a couple inch wrenches, an Allen, and a Torx. The trans/transfer case was ZF, and metric. The front. Rear diffs, Spicer, so inch.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 26, 2020, at 8:40 AM, Elizabeth Greene <elizabeth.a.greene@...> wrote:
?
Aren't US made cars metric??
?
As a data point, the only standard wrench I've used in the last year was to tighten a trailer ball.? Everything else is metric.? The oldest thing I'm working on is a '98 F-150.?
|
Aren't US made cars metric??
? As a data point, the only standard wrench I've used in the last year was to tighten a trailer ball.? Everything else is metric.? The oldest thing I'm working on is a '98 F-150.?
|
Aren't US made cars metric??
On Wed, Feb 26, 2020 at 11:17 AM paul mcclintic via Groups.Io <cannontandem= [email protected]> wrote: Iowa teachers were pushing the metric system back in the 1860"s. It sure would have been easy 160 years ago before there was so much standardization. Now we need both systems to get along. Paul M
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Iowa teachers were pushing the metric system back in the 1860"s. It sure would have been easy 160 years ago before there was so much standardization. Now we need both systems to get along. Paul M
|
Interesting that we are all headed to metrics later this year.? When I started teaching Industrial Technology back in 1971,? we were all concerned that our world (U.S.) was moving to metrics soon.? We lost so much sleep worrying when it was going to happen and we would have to buy NEW measuring devices, change all the dials on equipment, and so on.? Now that I am OLD, I am still sleep deprived but NOT because of metrics.? I am not sure where you live or are moving to but metrics NEVER came to the U.S. as the only way of measuring in this country.? It just did NOT happen!? As others have stated 10-14 tpi is usual and common.? HF has a bi-metal hardened toothed that lasts a long time.? Use your 20% coupon for a savings.? DBQ49er
I just checked a couple of Australian and French vendor websites. The Australian ones still use tpi, the French use mm pitch for ordinary blades but seem to use 10/14 for variable pitch.
Where are you heading?
On Wed, 26 Feb. 2020, 12:33 Jerry Durand, < jdurand@...> wrote: So, are they sold as "1.8-2.5mm pitch blade" or will they look at me like I'm a crazy expat?
I guess maybe it's best to just take a blade to a local shop and point.
---
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886
&
On Feb 25, 2020, at 20:29, Giordano < john.nurick@...> wrote:
Anywhere there's a pitch in tpi, you convert it into millimetres by dividing into 25.4. So a 10 tpi blade corresponds to approximately 2.5mm pitch, 14 tpi to 1.8.?
Length is usually specified in millimetres?
On Wed, 26 Feb. 2020, 12:01 Jerry Durand, <
jdurand@...> wrote:
I was just thinking, as we'll be moving to metric-land later this year, what do I ask for when I shop for blades?? As in, what's the metric size?? Also, I use 10-14 tpi, is there a metric equivalent (not conversion, but actual number they use)?
---
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886
&
|
I once helped with business planning a resort in that part?of the world, but never got to visit.
Good luck!
On Wed, 26 Feb. 2020, 13:06 Jerry Durand, < jdurand@...> wrote: Just north of Sochi, Krasnodar Krai, Russia
---
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886
&
On Feb 25, 2020, at 21:04, Giordano < john.nurick@...> wrote:
I just checked a couple of Australian and French vendor websites. The Australian ones still use tpi, the French use mm pitch for ordinary blades but seem to use 10/14 for variable pitch.
Where are you heading?
On Wed, 26 Feb. 2020, 12:33 Jerry Durand, <
jdurand@...> wrote:
So, are they sold as "1.8-2.5mm pitch blade" or will they look at me like I'm a crazy expat?
I guess maybe it's best to just take a blade to a local shop and point.
---
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886
&
On Feb 25, 2020, at 20:29, Giordano <
john.nurick@...> wrote:
Anywhere there's a pitch in tpi, you convert it into millimetres by dividing into 25.4. So a 10 tpi blade corresponds to approximately 2.5mm pitch, 14 tpi to 1.8.?
Length is usually specified in millimetres?
On Wed, 26 Feb. 2020, 12:01 Jerry Durand, <
jdurand@...> wrote:
I was just thinking, as we'll be moving to metric-land later this year, what do I ask for when I shop for blades?? As in, what's the metric size?? Also, I use 10-14 tpi, is there a metric equivalent (not conversion, but actual number they use)?
---
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886
&
|
Just north of Sochi, Krasnodar Krai, Russia
---
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886
&
I just checked a couple of Australian and French vendor websites. The Australian ones still use tpi, the French use mm pitch for ordinary blades but seem to use 10/14 for variable pitch.
Where are you heading?
On Wed, 26 Feb. 2020, 12:33 Jerry Durand, <
jdurand@...> wrote:
So, are they sold as "1.8-2.5mm pitch blade" or will they look at me like I'm a crazy expat?
I guess maybe it's best to just take a blade to a local shop and point.
---
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886
&
On Feb 25, 2020, at 20:29, Giordano <
john.nurick@...> wrote:
Anywhere there's a pitch in tpi, you convert it into millimetres by dividing into 25.4. So a 10 tpi blade corresponds to approximately 2.5mm pitch, 14 tpi to 1.8.?
Length is usually specified in millimetres?
On Wed, 26 Feb. 2020, 12:01 Jerry Durand, <
jdurand@...> wrote:
I was just thinking, as we'll be moving to metric-land later this year, what do I ask for when I shop for blades?? As in, what's the metric size?? Also, I use 10-14 tpi, is there a metric equivalent (not conversion, but actual number they use)?
---
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886
&
|
I just checked a couple of Australian and French vendor websites. The Australian ones still use tpi, the French use mm pitch for ordinary blades but seem to use 10/14 for variable pitch.
Where are you heading?
On Wed, 26 Feb. 2020, 12:33 Jerry Durand, < jdurand@...> wrote: So, are they sold as "1.8-2.5mm pitch blade" or will they look at me like I'm a crazy expat?
I guess maybe it's best to just take a blade to a local shop and point.
---
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886
&
On Feb 25, 2020, at 20:29, Giordano < john.nurick@...> wrote:
Anywhere there's a pitch in tpi, you convert it into millimetres by dividing into 25.4. So a 10 tpi blade corresponds to approximately 2.5mm pitch, 14 tpi to 1.8.?
Length is usually specified in millimetres?
On Wed, 26 Feb. 2020, 12:01 Jerry Durand, <
jdurand@...> wrote:
I was just thinking, as we'll be moving to metric-land later this year, what do I ask for when I shop for blades?? As in, what's the metric size?? Also, I use 10-14 tpi, is there a metric equivalent (not conversion, but actual number they use)?
---
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886
&
|
I guess so. Here in Australia we've been metric for more than 40 years but most stores can cope with you or mm pitch. OTOH I just buy 14 or 18 tpi as needed.
On Wed, 26 Feb. 2020, 12:33 Jerry Durand, < jdurand@...> wrote: So, are they sold as "1.8-2.5mm pitch blade" or will they look at me like I'm a crazy expat?
I guess maybe it's best to just take a blade to a local shop and point.
---
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886
&
On Feb 25, 2020, at 20:29, Giordano < john.nurick@...> wrote:
Anywhere there's a pitch in tpi, you convert it into millimetres by dividing into 25.4. So a 10 tpi blade corresponds to approximately 2.5mm pitch, 14 tpi to 1.8.?
Length is usually specified in millimetres?
On Wed, 26 Feb. 2020, 12:01 Jerry Durand, <
jdurand@...> wrote:
I was just thinking, as we'll be moving to metric-land later this year, what do I ask for when I shop for blades?? As in, what's the metric size?? Also, I use 10-14 tpi, is there a metric equivalent (not conversion, but actual number they use)?
---
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886
&
|
So, are they sold as "1.8-2.5mm pitch blade" or will they look at me like I'm a crazy expat?
I guess maybe it's best to just take a blade to a local shop and point.
---
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886
&
Anywhere there's a pitch in tpi, you convert it into millimetres by dividing into 25.4. So a 10 tpi blade corresponds to approximately 2.5mm pitch, 14 tpi to 1.8.?
Length is usually specified in millimetres?
On Wed, 26 Feb. 2020, 12:01 Jerry Durand, <
jdurand@...> wrote:
I was just thinking, as we'll be moving to metric-land later this year, what do I ask for when I shop for blades?? As in, what's the metric size?? Also, I use 10-14 tpi, is there a metric equivalent (not conversion, but actual number they use)?
---
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886
&
|
Anywhere there's a pitch in tpi, you convert it into millimetres by dividing into 25.4. So a 10 tpi blade corresponds to approximately 2.5mm pitch, 14 tpi to 1.8.?
Length is usually specified in millimetres?
On Wed, 26 Feb. 2020, 12:01 Jerry Durand, < jdurand@...> wrote: I was just thinking, as we'll be moving to metric-land later this year, what do I ask for when I shop for blades?? As in, what's the metric size?? Also, I use 10-14 tpi, is there a metric equivalent (not conversion, but actual number they use)?
---
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886
&
|
I was just thinking, as we'll be moving to metric-land later this year, what do I ask for when I shop for blades?? As in, what's the metric size?? Also, I use 10-14 tpi, is there a metric equivalent (not conversion, but actual number they use)?
---
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408 356-3886
&
|
Re: The blade. What’s the best all-around?
You always want a minimum of 3 teeth engagement so for 1/4" minimum bar stock you need a minimum of 12 TPI - Lenox recommends 14/18 TPI. For 1/8" wall thickness tubing Lenox recommends 8/12 TPI. If you are cutting a bundle of tubing you can go one pitch coarser to 6/10 TPI. I like their bimetal blades. I run a variable pitch 10 to 14 but don't cut anything thinner than about 3/8.
Brand new owner and want to buy a good Lenox blade. I’ll be cutting bar stock from 1/4” through 1” and angle iron up to 2”x2”x1/4” and square tubing 1/8” thick 2”x2”. All mild steel. What would be my best blade selection if I only selected one blade? Many thanks.
-- John A. Schirra?
Sent from GMail
|
Re: The blade. What’s the best all-around?
I don't know the TPI on my blade, and I don't care.? If I'm cutting thick stock, it's all good.? If I'm cutting thin stock, I just slip in some 1x2 maple flooring (which I have a lot of) ind it's still good.
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Re: The blade. What’s the best all-around?
Ralph,
?
Yes, it won’t cut through the wood to fast. (I run a bimetal 10-14)
Probably faster with pine though. I live in Alabama, maybe more oak available,
if you can locate some that bricks or masonry come on they need to be stronger
so may be oak, don’t really have a particular place to get them, just keep my
eyes open, many places are glad to get rid of them particularly if they are
damaged which I don’t care about. Just have to keep your eyes open, there are
tons of them out there.
?
Carl
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: Ralph
Hulslander
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2020 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] The blade. What’s the best
all-around?
?
Carl, you are letting the cut through the wood control the speed of
the cut, interesting where do you find oak pallets? Most seem to be scrap
pine.
?
On Mon, Feb 24, 2020 at 11:43 AM Carl Hollopeter
<chollo@...> wrote:
Clamp
thin wall tubing in the vise with a piece of wood next to it, more
consistent than hand feeding. I break down old oak pallets for this
purpose,
(poor man's down-feed control)
Carl H
-----Original
Message-----
From: Bill Armstrong
Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2020 10:04
AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re:
[4x6bandsaw] The blade. What’s the best all-around?
Nothing wrong with
that.
Free is a very good price, and also my favorite! ;)
Until you do
add a cylinder, for occasional cuts in thin materials, it’s
easy enough to
control the feed rate by hand. A friend has a HF saw, and
that’s what he
does for exhaust tubing etc.
Bill
> On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:00 AM,
Terry Coombs <snagone@...>
wrote:
>
> ?On 2/23/2020 9:43 AM, Bill Armstrong
wrote:
>>> On Feb 23, 2020, at 7:37 AM, Terry Coombs <snagone@...>
wrote:
>>>
>>> ?On 2/23/2020 9:23 AM, Chris Hibbert
wrote:
>>> Brand new owner and want to buy a good Lenox blade.
I’ll be cutting bar
>>> stock from 1/4” through 1” and angle iron
up to 2”x2”x1/4” and square
>>> tubing 1/8” thick 2”x2”. All mild
steel. What would be my best blade
>>> selection if I only
selected one blade? Many thanks.
>>?? I like a bimetal
10/14 for most cutting . Sometimes I put a finer blade
>> on for
thin stock . Rule of thumb is that you need at least 3 teeth in
>>
the material you're cutting . I've stripped teeth by not following that
>> rule ... and blades ain't cheap so I'm more careful now
.
>>?? --
>>?? Snag
>> The
easiest solution for cutting thin material with a 10-14 blade, is a
>> down-feed control cylinder. My Grizzly saw came with a cylinder,
which
>> was one of the reasons I chose it over the HF.
>>
Bill
>
>?? I had no choice , my saw was a gift for
helping a friend of a friend
> clean up the mess from 3 (yes 3 !) big
oak trees that smashed his shop .
> One of these days I [plan on
building a cylinder for mine . Gotta find my
> spare roundtuit first
though ... until then I'll just keep on keepin' on .
>??
--
>??
Snag
>
>
>
>
|
Re: The blade. What’s the best all-around?
Last time I remember getting hardwood pallets, was with a truck load of cinderblocks, but that was 15 years ago. Not sure if they are still using hardwood these days.
Might be worth a look at a Home Depot or Lowes to see what they have to give away. Busted pallets would work fine, and they generally toss ‘em in a dumpster.
Wood stove pellets come on pine pallets. I have a ton of ‘em. One of these days, I’ll find a use for the things, besides taking up space!
?
Bill
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2020 8:57 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] The blade. What’s the best all-around?
?
Carl, you are letting the cut through the wood control the speed of the cut, interesting where do you find oak pallets? Most seem to be scrap pine.
?
On Mon, Feb 24, 2020 at 11:43 AM Carl Hollopeter <chollo@...> wrote:
Clamp thin wall tubing in the vise with a piece of wood next to it, more
consistent than hand feeding. I break down old oak pallets for this purpose,
(poor man's down-feed control)
Carl H
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Armstrong
Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2020 10:04 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] The blade. What’s the best all-around?
Nothing wrong with that.
Free is a very good price, and also my favorite! ;)
Until you do add a cylinder, for occasional cuts in thin materials, it’s
easy enough to control the feed rate by hand. A friend has a HF saw, and
that’s what he does for exhaust tubing etc.
Bill
> On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:00 AM, Terry Coombs <snagone@...> wrote:
>
> ?On 2/23/2020 9:43 AM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
>>> On Feb 23, 2020, at 7:37 AM, Terry Coombs <snagone@...> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?On 2/23/2020 9:23 AM, Chris Hibbert wrote:
>>> Brand new owner and want to buy a good Lenox blade. I’ll be cutting bar
>>> stock from 1/4” through 1” and angle iron up to 2”x2”x1/4” and square
>>> tubing 1/8” thick 2”x2”. All mild steel. What would be my best blade
>>> selection if I only selected one blade? Many thanks.
>>? ?I like a bimetal 10/14 for most cutting . Sometimes I put a finer blade
>> on for thin stock . Rule of thumb is that you need at least 3 teeth in
>> the material you're cutting . I've stripped teeth by not following that
>> rule ... and blades ain't cheap so I'm more careful now .
>>? ?--
>>? ?Snag
>> The easiest solution for cutting thin material with a 10-14 blade, is a
>> down-feed control cylinder. My Grizzly saw came with a cylinder, which
>> was one of the reasons I chose it over the HF.
>> Bill
>
>? ?I had no choice , my saw was a gift for helping a friend of a friend
> clean up the mess from 3 (yes 3 !) big oak trees that smashed his shop .
> One of these days I [plan on building a cylinder for mine . Gotta find my
> spare roundtuit first though ... until then I'll just keep on keepin' on .
>? ?--
>? ?Snag
>
>
>
>
|
Re: The blade. What’s the best all-around?
Carl, you are letting the cut through the wood control the speed of the cut, interesting where do you find oak pallets? Most seem to be scrap pine.
On Mon, Feb 24, 2020 at 11:43 AM Carl Hollopeter < chollo@...> wrote: Clamp thin wall tubing in the vise with a piece of wood next to it, more
consistent than hand feeding. I break down old oak pallets for this purpose,
(poor man's down-feed control)
Carl H
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Armstrong
Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2020 10:04 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] The blade. What’s the best all-around?
Nothing wrong with that.
Free is a very good price, and also my favorite! ;)
Until you do add a cylinder, for occasional cuts in thin materials, it’s
easy enough to control the feed rate by hand. A friend has a HF saw, and
that’s what he does for exhaust tubing etc.
Bill
> On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:00 AM, Terry Coombs <snagone@...> wrote:
>
> ?On 2/23/2020 9:43 AM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
>>> On Feb 23, 2020, at 7:37 AM, Terry Coombs <snagone@...> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?On 2/23/2020 9:23 AM, Chris Hibbert wrote:
>>> Brand new owner and want to buy a good Lenox blade. I’ll be cutting bar
>>> stock from 1/4” through 1” and angle iron up to 2”x2”x1/4” and square
>>> tubing 1/8” thick 2”x2”. All mild steel. What would be my best blade
>>> selection if I only selected one blade? Many thanks.
>>? ?I like a bimetal 10/14 for most cutting . Sometimes I put a finer blade
>> on for thin stock . Rule of thumb is that you need at least 3 teeth in
>> the material you're cutting . I've stripped teeth by not following that
>> rule ... and blades ain't cheap so I'm more careful now .
>>? ?--
>>? ?Snag
>> The easiest solution for cutting thin material with a 10-14 blade, is a
>> down-feed control cylinder. My Grizzly saw came with a cylinder, which
>> was one of the reasons I chose it over the HF.
>> Bill
>
>? ?I had no choice , my saw was a gift for helping a friend of a friend
> clean up the mess from 3 (yes 3 !) big oak trees that smashed his shop .
> One of these days I [plan on building a cylinder for mine . Gotta find my
> spare roundtuit first though ... until then I'll just keep on keepin' on .
>? ?--
>? ?Snag
>
>
>
>
|
Re: The blade. What’s the best all-around?
Clamp thin wall tubing in the vise with a piece of wood next to it, more consistent than hand feeding. I break down old oak pallets for this purpose, (poor man's down-feed control)
Carl H
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message----- From: Bill Armstrong Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2020 10:04 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] The blade. What’s the best all-around? Nothing wrong with that. Free is a very good price, and also my favorite! ;) Until you do add a cylinder, for occasional cuts in thin materials, it’s easy enough to control the feed rate by hand. A friend has a HF saw, and that’s what he does for exhaust tubing etc. Bill On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:00 AM, Terry Coombs <snagone@...> wrote:
?On 2/23/2020 9:43 AM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
On Feb 23, 2020, at 7:37 AM, Terry Coombs <snagone@...> wrote:
?On 2/23/2020 9:23 AM, Chris Hibbert wrote:
Brand new owner and want to buy a good Lenox blade. I’ll be cutting bar stock from 1/4” through 1” and angle iron up to 2”x2”x1/4” and square tubing 1/8” thick 2”x2”. All mild steel. What would be my best blade selection if I only selected one blade? Many thanks. I like a bimetal 10/14 for most cutting . Sometimes I put a finer blade on for thin stock . Rule of thumb is that you need at least 3 teeth in the material you're cutting . I've stripped teeth by not following that rule ... and blades ain't cheap so I'm more careful now .
--
Snag
The easiest solution for cutting thin material with a 10-14 blade, is a down-feed control cylinder. My Grizzly saw came with a cylinder, which was one of the reasons I chose it over the HF.
Bill
I had no choice , my saw was a gift for helping a friend of a friend clean up the mess from 3 (yes 3 !) big oak trees that smashed his shop . One of these days I [plan on building a cylinder for mine . Gotta find my spare roundtuit first though ... until then I'll just keep on keepin' on .
--
Snag
|
Re: The blade. What’s the best all-around?
I agree with Bill... a quality, 10-14 tooth bimetal. -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
LAW OF ANNOYANCE: When working on a project, if you put away a tool that you’re certain you’re finished with, you will need it instantly.
|
Without going out and dragging out a Bimba book in my library.....here’s what I can tell ya.....
As long as it’s a double acting, and has sufficient stroke, it should work.
‘Original line’ (I’m guessing that’s what it is) Bimba pneumatic cylinders have buna-n (Nitrile) seals, so are compatible with any mineral oil. DO NOT use brake fluid.?
If memory serves, they are rated at 250 psi, so don’t exceed that pressure, although, we ran many at 280-300 PSI oil pressure.?
Nothing to convert. If it is an original line, they are non-repairable/rebuildable.?
They are good cylinders. We used many of them for controls on mining equipment. On a band saw, one should last longer than the saw.?
;)
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 23, 2020, at 7:04 PM, "saunderswashed3981@..." <saunderswashed3981@...> wrote:
?
I have a?bimba m 125 air cylinder.? Can I convert it to? fluid to use as a down feed for my 4x6 bandsaw?
|
Jerry Durand