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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
I will not use poly tubing! That is what was originally installed, and why I have to replace it. The poly tubing softens with age and kinks and sags. Both cause the condensate water to back up in the collection pan and drip into the house. It would also require at least one hundred support clamps to prevent the sagging, looking pretty ridiculous, lol.
I did not realize that copper tubing would stain the siding. I will have to return all of the copper pieces already purchased and select the appropriate PVC style pieces. As I stated earlier, I thought the aesthetics of the copper would appear nicer than the PVC. I guess I don't have a choice now. Again, thanks to everyone for all of your input. It has been an education as well as helping me to install the correct solution so I won't have to deal with it again, at least for a long time - hopefully. Chip.? |
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
Copper will stain the siding, use poly tubing and use ss screws and ss brackets to hold the tubing. On Wed, Aug 15, 2018 at 1:05 PM, Ralph Hulslander rhulslander@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
Ralph Hulslander
re:?
?I have seen soft copper up to at least ?¡±, I quit a job once after I had to install a 2" (soft copper) water service to a house by myself, I finally got the line installed but I had another 60' coil in the back of the truck that was all kinked and probable no longer usable. Ralph On Wed, Aug 15, 2018 at 11:14 AM 'Jim.Klessig@...' jim.klessig@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting [1 Attachment]
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýWell really, since this does not need to hold any pressure, you could go back to basics, and bang it up out of sheet copper.
Alternatively as well, you could use soft copper tubing, and bend it.?? I have seen soft copper up to at least ?¡±,
but I would doubt you need anything over ? for a drip line.
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R James (Jim) Klessig P.E. | Senior Power Systems Engineer |
Electrical Reliability Services, VERTIV jim.klessig@..., jim_klessig@... 1876 Gwin Rd, Mckinleyville | CA | 95519 | USA | Cell (707) 497-9611 | eFax 614-410-0653 ?
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting [1 Attachment]
Ralph Hulslander
Thanks for the picture!! Ralph
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
Late to the thread but why not use soft copper tubing and flex it to shape as desired.? As others have stated copper will stain the siding.?? Why not flex poly tubing(not the clear because it will turn brittle and you can see the water stain inside) stainless clips and stainless steel screws to keep the rusting from forming. On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 7:13 AM, hamholfarms@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting [3 Attachments]
The height of the bottom of the window causes the problem. That in combination with the distance to the end of the porch does not allow the use of 45-degree angles.? The angle of the picture is deceiving - the piece of down pipe seen in the picture is actually at the point where it would meet the red line. This is where the first of the constructed fittings would be placed.? The red line represents where the next piece of copper pipe would go. It is at the highest angle possible to pass under the window, and yet still make it to the end of the porch in a straight line. From there, the copper pipe would turn down (this is where the second constructed fitting would go) and extend straight down for a few feet, and then a 45-degree angle would be added (facing to the right in the picture). A piece of pipe would then extend approximately 8 feet, and this would put it a few inches past the foundation, and drain into some pachysandra.? ?There is not enough height in the wall after the window vs. the distance to the end of the porch to add a 45-degree angle. I trust this all makes sense. Chip ---In 4x6bandsaw@..., <rhulslander@...> wrote : Please post a picture(s) of final application? I am still having trouble grasping exactly what you a doing that required so much thought. Ralph
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting [3 Attachments]
Please post a picture(s) of final application? I am still having trouble grasping exactly what you a doing that required so much thought. Ralph
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
I didn't realize this was for a drain on exterior siding where you care about aesthetics.? ?Copper will look nice initially, but I'd be concerned about it oxidizing and staining the siding green over time.? What about gutters & downspouts?? I assume you have gutters on the house.? You could route the drain through an existing downspout, or possibly add one in a location that looks normal for a downspout.? For making things look nice on a house, most of the issue is making sure it looks normal and doesn't draw attention to itself.? Any kind of special drain will catch the eye and make people think 'oh, what's that'.? But a downspout - even one a bit unusually placed - is easily overlooked. If you're concerned about constant water flow and a downspout leaking, then run a rubber hose through it.? The hose carries the water without leakage, and the downspout conceals it. If you're still committed to copper, I'd suggest sticks of rigid pipe, and a few feet of flexible tubing.? Use a flaring tool and tubing bender to make nice clean fittings at custom angles. -Joe On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 9:34 AM, Ralph Hulslander rhulslander@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting [3 Attachments]
Ralph Hulslander
Please post a picture(s) of final application? I am still having trouble grasping exactly what you a doing that required so much thought. Ralph
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
Thank you to all who replied. The reason I originally chose copper is because the drain line is on the exterior of the house siding. It is on the back wall of a porch for all to see. I was going for aesthetics over ease of fabrication and installation. I will try cutting the copper fittings, but if cutting and fitting the two pieces together is too troublesome, or does not work, I will just switch over to the PVC pipe. To? john_vreede, After reading your first post, I thought it was my browser not showing your pictures, and I commenced trying to figure out why. Then I read your second post, lol. I appreciate you taking the effort to repost the pictures, as well as taking the pictures in the first place, and also writing such a detailed explanation. The pictures were a great help for me to understand what you had written. Your recommendation is the route I am going to try. To join the two pieces together, I thought about trying this: only using one half of the cut 45-degree elbow, and also cutting off the small diameter end of a ?-inch, or maybe even a 1/8-inch slip coupling fitting, up to the flare. Thinking there will be enough contact area of the flared end of the slip coupling to fit into the smaller diameter of the middle of the cut 45-degree elbow to get a good solder joint, again this joint does not need to hold pressure, just contain the water.? ? Attached are pictures to show what I will try to do. And as stated above, if I have problems cutting or joining the two pieces together, I will resign myself to using PVC. Thank you again to all who responded! Chip |
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Re: Cutting Tungsten of a HF?
Evidence is that cutting tungsten metal is difficult.? It workhardens like stainless and needs exceptionally sharp cutting edges.?
Most people use carbide toothed equipment to cut it. The machine tool has to be exceptionally rigid not to chip the carbide from vibration. But I don't think its because tungsten metal is very hard, just difficult.?? Although you can get 1/2' wide carbide blades and have someone make a blade for you, the 4x6 is just not rigid enough.? You'd chip the teeth before it ever cuts. If you try with bimetal blade, it must be as slow as possible and with coolant as tungsten generates a lot of heat when cutting which just makes it work harden faster.? Bandsaw teeth cut such a thin chip that the teeth are always cutting in the work hardened zone. If it cuts, it will be 2-10x as slow as mild steel.? Inconel (hi nickel alloy cut 30x slower than mild steel! Tungsten carbide can only be cut? with a diamond or CBN.? Electroplated diamond slitting wheels are cheap as chips on Aliexpress, but you'd only cut 1 or 2 pieces with each one before the coating strips off the edge of the wheel. Good luck - jv?? |
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
Hi Chip
If you are going to do this multiple times its worth making a jig Bill's one is very versatile and will do whatever you want, repeatedly, for as many jobs as you can think of. If you are only going to use it 5-10 times then maybe this jig is easier and quicker to make, if not so long-lasting. I'm assuming that you want to make 2 cuts in the elbow so it is symetrical when you rejoin the cut bits Technically this jig is a sub-table on the saw, a piece of 8"x8"x3/4" panelboard (MDF, plywood etc) (needs to be stiff to work well) positioned so it fits between the fully retracted guides. The table sits on top of the jaws?with a 3 to 4" wide and long by 1"thick cleat fixed to the bottom so you can grab it in the vice.?I hot-melt glued the 2 together.?Play a heatgun over the pieces you want to hot-melt glue before pressing together to get a nice thin strong glueline. (takes longer to set, but its minimal in the overall scheme of things) If you fix the cleat, so the back of the sub-table is parallel to the vice jaws then you can lay out the half angle on the table itself with a protractor then glue the fence over the line?? You'll need to shim under the non-flared part of the fitting so it sits flat. Shim under all of the fitting so the shim gets cut in 2 when making the cut. With a 1/2" fitting being so small, you'll need to use a thin clamp to clamp it to the fence - toolmakers clamp is ideal but long-nose or large vicegrips maybe would do.??Might have to fit a plug into the end of the fitting if is squashes too much when clamping up?(For a shape you can't clamp easily, just use the hot-melt glue! but its way slower to change over). To cut the other side of the joint just flip the offcut over and reclamp it in the jig.?? Because the sub-table sits up on top of the vice jaws the blade cuts through the workpiece at quite an angle.? This mean you can cut part-way into the sub-table and get support for the cut on both sides of the blade, which means it doesn't need much clamping force. Rgds - jv |
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýIf your final result will involve soldering, then I suggest you
solder the fitting onto a short scrap of pipe.? Put the pipe in
the vise.? You can maneuver the pipe around in the vise until you
have exactly the angle you want.? After cutting, unsolder the pipe
(if needed), and solder the rest of your project together. -Joe On 8/11/2018 10:26 PM,
hamholfarms@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI have a ?¡± thick plate full of threaded holes. I remove the moveable jay to install it on the saw, and it is right up next to the blade. I use the workholding clamps for my mill, and sometimes make my own, to hold down odd shapes & small pieces. If I don¡¯t have a threaded hole in the right place to hold something down. I just drill & tap another one. Bill ? From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2018 7:53 AM To: November X-Ray n8676x@... [4x6bandsaw] Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting ? ? I cannot picture why just using the vertical table and holding the fitting in your hand or with vice grips is not a quick easy way to make your cut especially as it doesn't need to be exact. ? If you insist that you have to use horizontal just cut a block of wood with the desired angle and drill a hole to put the fitting in possible holding with a screw. You can clamp the block of wood in the vice set at the angle you want. ? Ralph ? On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 10:26 AM Richard Marchi rfmarchi@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
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