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Hey fellows, I go to a scrap yard and look through there scrap, I came across a 4X6 band saw, it has a Craftsman tag on it, a lot better quality that the one that I have, got it for $ 20.00, and its

They had to toss it for some reason. Curious what you find out about it. Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA

Jim, I got it today, found out that It belonged to the School Board and they don't do repairs anymore, contracted out, I took the stand off and will mount it on a stand that I have already made,

Hey fellows I will post a pic of the chip pan that come with the saw that I got form the scrap your, would be neat to build for these new ones, there is a lot more quality in this old saw that the

Does any one on this list use cutting fluid when cutting steel with your bandsaw? If so, what do you use, or recommend for it? I'll be cutting some bar stock soon and was curious what folks were

Thanks for uploading the pics. The chip pan idea looks neat. I was thinking of using a rubbermaid pan and mounting it to the bottom of the base casting. Thanks agaain. saw new have

snedi, I have used WD40, LPS,kerosine, I have mine set up with a pump, a large canister fuel filter, settleing bowl before the filter, using the karosine now, I am about ready to take all that

I can put the measurements in the files if you think some might want to copy it, the small part that goes around the pulling wheel cathes a lot of metal, the rubbermaid is a good idea, saw some

I never use any type of cutting or cooling fluid on mine. I regularly cut through 3.5" 1018 cold rolled steel rounds dry and have had no problems. I use the middle speed setting and a 14 tpi

Robert, dry cutting is sure cleaner than liquid, I got the Starret blade they last real good, my motor burnt the second time I used it, put a flea market motor and run it with one pulley only, they

I cut most brass and aluminum dry. However, if the cut will be a large one where heat will be of a concern, I lubricate the blade with paraffin wax. This collects on the workpiece at the cut site..

Hello All, I just got a Grizzly G5113 blade for my HF 4X6. Does a Bi-metal blade look any different than the stock blade? Are these Grizzly ones a quality product? Thanks, Barry

I bought some carbon steel blades from Harbor Freight and some bi-metal blades from Enco. Appearance wise, they look the about the same. Leo (down south in pearland)

Great, Just thought it should have looked different. I'm going to hack up some 3" stock with it today. Thank You Leo Barry (Down South in the sub-tropical swampy paradise of BatonRouge!)

Barry, One thing to check on a new blade... make sure the teeth are pointing in the right direction. On one of the H.F. blades, they were reversed. Easy to fix, just turn the blade inside out. Leo

--- In 4x6bandsaw@y..., dswr@w... wrote: Another thing to check with a new blade is the tension. I was cutting .75" x 1.75" 303 stainless bar. When I started cutting, the blade was properly

Hi,My name is Ed and I've made about five cuts with my new saw. Has anyone figured a good way to install a chip brush like I've seen on some of the higher end saws? It seems this would keep many of

Guys, Thanks for the replies on the saw blade. It cuts 5 times faster than the stock blade. I'd recomend getting a bi-metal and chucking the stock one. What an improvement. Barry

I have a 4 X 6 Taiwan bandsaw Ohio-Forge and the larger of the two worm gears is shot. Anyone know of a source for parts ? Herman

Little Machine Shop (www.littlemachineshop.com) has a nice page on selecting bandsaw blades for different purposes. Check it out here: http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Info/bandsaw.php They also