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John: Another invaluable piece of info. “A fraught subject”. This made me laugh. In another era, I subscribed to three vintage VW lists: bus, Ghia, Beetle - because I owned and worked on all

Yeah thats a fair bit of misalignmentand probably due to the motor not being in the right place on its mount. The holes are generally pretty oversize so you can move the motor around a bit.? Maybe

Possibly it's not the original motor? I replaced the motor with one made in USA on my Grizzly 5x6, and had to modify the mount a bit to get the pulleys aligned. I don't know why a Dayton would use

Me again. With the motor pulley as far out on the motor shaft as possible, here is the misalignment with the pulley on the gear box shaft. What to make of this? Also is there a concensus on what lube

??? If it's never been off it's probably staying put cause the gasket sealers & gasket material was much better quality when yer saw was made . Have ya taken that saw # over to Graingers site to

This is exceedingly helpful. Many thanks. I’ll try tomorrow.

Hi Jack I'd be more confident of what the arrowed screw is, than what's holding the cover on but here goes: 1. I'm pretty sure that the arrowed screw is the fill/level screw. If you fill oil through

Vintage Dayton saw. I’d like to inspect the lube in the gear box but cannot get the cover off. Removing the screws at the corners allows the cover to lift off a few mm, but not all the

Excellent! +1

Nice to know. I own three 4x6 and never had to remove tension spring. Each one had upgrades from last . I will keep this one in mind if ever need to replace the spring. Dave

+1 I do that all the time with centerstand springs on motorcycles. Patrick Hayes Fremont CA

Brilliant idea John, love it, I wouldn't have thought of using spacers like that.

Brake spring pliers work well too. [IMG_1095]

Ahh.... some do and some don't.? That only works if the adjustment screw is long enough for the spring to go slack.? If it too short, like this yr2000 RF128, you need to lengthen the spring

Thanks, but on my ancient Dayton version, the bolt was not long enough. I ground a flat on the other bolt that captures the end of the spring. this allowed a flat head screwdriver to rest there and

Lift the arm all the way and it’ll go right back on easily? Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS

I removed the tension spring to allow me to adjust the swing arm. Any suggestions on how to reinstall that beast?

I assume you mean the plate to go under the vise. Thanks, it makes a huge difference if you saw has the same defect as mine.

Mark, That pivot bracket is priceless, I have my 6X4 cutting a slither like a penny, after doing all sorts of modifications, and copying your baseplate idea. Love Your Youtube.......just keep on doing

John, you have a gift. I understand the saw but putting it into words and explaining it so that others can understand is another story. Joe Pi (on youtube) has this gift. I do okay, but certainly not