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I'm not an expert on this, maybe someone else can offer a more authoritative opinion. But I'm under the impression that the backwards motion on a sawblade is harder on its cutting edges, since the

The voice of experience, love it!! Ralph 4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:

You guys were right. It was flipped inside out. I flipped it in and the teeth are running the right way. I am still confused on how that reverses it, but hey it worked! Thanks! Kris

Well, the bearings and seals are in and the case is in primer. :) Combination of frozen bearings/seals. Warmed up aluminum (Could only touch for a split second), some engine grease, and a make shift

300-350F is a bit toasty for most things I know. The SKF induction bearing heater we had, was preset to 110C (230F). Turn it on, and that’s where it was. If you wanted more, you had to manually

Hi, All... Just to add my experience... Some years ago, I converted my mini-lathe to tapered roller bearings. A good friend recommended that I freeze the spindle and heat the bearing, so I wrapped the

Bill I hear ya. Won't be going nuts with the torch. Warming. Spit sizzle. That's around 212. I get it. Won't be too liberal with the torch, if I have to use it at all. Sorry for all the over think'n.

Darren, Heating metals to install bearings, whether it be steel or aluminum, does NOT require high enough temperatures to change the color. Again, if you are doing that or think you need to do that,

Bill, I'm notorious for doing just that, ant hills into mountains. I have the case in the house, about 76° f. The bearings are frozen by now. I think with a bit of lube and a some light taping they

Here’s a question…..how much effort did it take to remove the old bearings? New ones should install with similar force, and arguably less, since you cleaned up the housing., the bearings are new &

Great idea. However, I don't have a lathe, yet. That's coming in Q1 of 2019. Also, as soon as I sent the last question, I realized the error in my thoughts. If the aluminum is hot enough to sizzle

I would think that the press in a band saw is quite light, and if any heat is required, it will be minimal if lube is used for assembly. I am speaking from experience. Also, I will agree that a lot of

No problem, each helps the other. In fact making things so hot that it interferes with you ability to align things is counterproductive too. Just do what you feel comfortable with. - jv

I saw where JV said the casting is aluminum . Mine is cast iron - which is still worth heating it up a bit though it won't expand as much as the aluminum . I have had very good luck installing

JV, That makes sense to me. Any issues with following both procedures? Temp and lube? Thanks Darren 4x6bandsaw@... wrote:

Sorry Darren, I didn't see the other part of your question, sizzling hot is still only 200-300F (100-150C) and most paints will stand that if you heat up carefully i.e. move the torch round constantly

There's the whole science of reliability engineering behind it. Contrary to popular belief, properly installed and lubed rolling element bearing don't wear out, they fail randomly. The biggest cause

Sometimes they get flipped inside out. I’ve not had that problem with any made by Lennox, Irwin, or Starrett, but have with a few lower priced creampuffs from Grizzly, and the Amazonians. Can be the

Well....since I now am unsure....that is a GREAT question. I am not the smartest guy in the room, but doesn't it only go on one way? (Can't figure out without looking at it how to put it on any

Not to be a smarta$$ here but is it possible you have the blade running backwards?