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Remachined how ? Can you still cut angles ? Alan -- Alan Rothenbush | Before me things create were none, save things Academic Computing Services | Eternal, and eternal I endure. Simon Fraser

Rod; Nine bucks ! That's pretty cheap, all right, and has me a whole lot more excited about yet another modification to a machine. ( My wife keeps asking "yes, that's nice dear, but when are you

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., Alan Rothenbush <alan@s...> wrote: <Snip> > That still leaves my original query .. why do I require additional > weight > whereas everyone else with seemingly

Steve Thanks for the comments. I don't have a site right now but want to work on getting one. The hydraulic unit is what is used for sporting equipment like stair steppers, I'll post the site I

Hi Rod, Nice pics and work. Do you have a site with the info on this mod? Is that hydraulic cyl a door closer? sorry to be so out of it, but I just got this thing and am learning. BTW, do the 10-14

Here is a few pictures (Sparky's folder) of my saw fixes to date. 1 Base beefed up, solid as a rock now. 2 Slot and nut remachined so movable jaw doesn't flop around. 3 Vise screw extended, can easily

I'll forgive you .. one day. <G> I keep a close eye on the motor temperature, but while it does warm up after 5 minutes or so of cutting, it never gets really hot, even after an hour or better of

I thought my suggestions were a wee bit too obvious. 8-) I think any of these saws will cut faster with added pressure on the blade. The limiting factors are power available and temperature elevation

No, the teeth aren't dull and certainly aren't installed backwards. And it's not that it won't cut without added weight, but cuts WAY faster with it. I would guess that my current blade has 100 hours

These saws should cut ok without additional weight added. Is your blade dull, or installed with the teeth facing the wrong direction? Leo (pearland, tx)

Alan What pitch blade are you using at this time? Another feature of the hydraulics is you should be able to use a coarser blade & control the downfeed so it does not strip the teeth off. Maybe your

I must admit that in the EXTREMELY cramped confines of my TINY shop, not having to lift the head all the way, all the time, would be a welcome addition ... Hmmm, good point .. very good point. Add the

Ken Just make sure you make the fit as close as possible, the tighter the fit the better the bracket will work. Rod

Rod Nope no mill or lathe here. Someday maybe. Guess I'll put the bender to use and bend some strap to fit,should work ok. Thanks for the great pics. Ken

Alan Well I guess I am just spoiled that way: ) I like having the control on the saw head not just going down but holding the head in place while moving the stock instead of lifting the head all the

After seeing Rod's wonderful workmanship, it occurs to me that I must be doing something wrong. You see, I have no need to slow things down, on the way down. In fact, I've removed that useless spring

Ken I made part 1 out of solid stainless stock but the same desired effect could be achieved with some pipe the is the size of the hydraulic unit body. 1/4" steel strap rolled to fit then dremmel the

Rod, What did you fashion part number one out of? I have ordered the same style piston for my saw and was just wondering. Thanks Ken

Rod I would sure like to see the photos. Thanks in advance. Dee dee.schuyler@...

Hey guys just uploaded some pics of the hydralic unit I just added to my saw in the Rod's Pics folder. I spent approx $20 with the hydralic unit & metal total. I want to thank Kerry Pinkerton for