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This is what is needed to set up the Koolertron JDS6600-15M function generator as a Clark zapper (not an exact reproduction - see below). Turn on the generator, then press the WAV button. Rotate right the knob until you see CMOS on the display. Press the FREQ button, then press the left-arrow key. Rotate the knob until the frequency is set to 30,000.000 Hz. Press the AMPL button, then press the left-arrow key. Rotate the knob clockwise until the display shows 09.000 V . To save these settings in a memory cell, press the SYS button, then rotate the knob clockwise to the chosen memory number. Press SAVE. The information is now stored in one of the 100 memories. Then place a 1000 ohm resistor between the red alligator clip and the copper hand post, to reduce the output current to a safe level. There are two things to note about this set-up. When using the CMOS waveform the maximum output voltage is 12 volts. Also, all Clark zappers have an offset voltage of about 0.5 volts. Unfortunately when using the CMOS waveform, you cannot change the offset. You are able to manipulate the offset value on the display by pressing the OFFS button, but it has no effect on the output. You can get the Koolertron generator to properly emulate the Clark zapper by inserting a silicon diode between the red wire and the 1,000 ohm resistor (the diode has a coloured band on one side - this side goes to the resistor); and adjust the generator by changing the waveform to SQUARE, and increasing the voltage parameter to 18.0 volts. This is the peak-to-peak voltage, and the diode will cut out the negative part of the waveform. So the generator will produce an output voltage swinging from roughly 0.6 volts to 9 volts. The diode can be a 1N914, 1N4148, 1N4001 to 1N4007, 1N5817 to 1N5819, etc. David

The following messages will be about an inexpensive DDS (Direct Digital Synthesis) Function Generator. It is manufactured in China, under a number of different model numbers: FY6600 / JDS6600; and by a number of names: FeelTech / Koolertron. It also comes in a number of maximum frequencies. For example, the Koolertron has these models available: Model The max output frequency of sine wave JDS6600-60M 60MHz JDS6600-50M 50MHz JDS6600-40M 40MHz JDS6600-30M 30MHz JDS6600-15M 15MHz From Amazon.ca I purchased the JDS6600-15M (the cheapest model) for $140 Canadian. This device is fully programmable using its control panel or from a computer. It has two channels, meaning it can produce two independent frequencies (with a common ground). I'll be showing how this device can act as a: Clark 30KHz zapper Clark virus destroyer (200 to 400KHz) Godzilla bio-electrifier (6V alternating polarity every 3 minutes) Rife audio frequencies (5 to 40,000 Hz , or sweeping between a band of frequencies) Rife RF frequencies (up to 15MHz) Jim Meissner DP200/DP300 white noise generator You can also use the DDS generator to control other Rife devices, such as an EMEM Rife plasma device, or a Jim Meissner DP100 Hi-V static generator. David

This is the fourth and final message that shows how you can build an inexpensive Lee Crock device. This design uses AA batteries instead of D-cells because of the ease of finding 2-cell battery holders, the size, and weight. I went to my local Dollarama store, and found Panasonic Super Heavy Duty Power 4 pack AA batteries at $1.25 each - so I bought three packs, giving me 12 AA cells. Ten of them are used in this project. Make sure that the purchased battery holders come with two wires - the red wire is the positive, and the black negative. Twist ends of the 5 red wires of the holders together, and do the same with the black wires. You will see the relay on the timer board just above the UP and DOWN push-buttons. And to the right of the relay are three terminals, marked NO (normally open), COM (common), and NC (normally closed). The junction of the red wires goes into the NO terminal (use a screwdriver to secure the wires). The ends of the black wires go into the NC terminal. Remove 1/4 inch of the plastic insulation of the long wire, and put it in the COM terminal. The other end of the long wire is attached to an alligator clip. When you put the batteries into the holders, make sure that they are inserted correctly, with the negative side of each battery going to the wire-spring side of the holder. The alligator clip is then attached to a wire mesh placed under the sheet of the bed. In my case, I use an electric blanket, with the alligator clip connected to one of the pins where where the heat controller's plug is attached. I've been using this Lee Crock device for a couple of months, and have noticed that my feet have felt warmer during the night. It has also helped with issues of getting a good night's sleep, without getting up to pee; and with constipation. The next DIY project will be making an Eeman biocircuit. David

Programming the "JZ-801 Digital LED Relay Board" isn't particularly intuitive, but it isn't difficult once you get spend some time at it. First, you need to connect your power adapter to the timer board. As I said earlier, the adapter needs to output DC voltage , from 9 to 15 volts, and be capable of supplying at least 0.1 amps (100ma). It might be a spare unit from an old calculator, answering machine, modem, printer, etc. The relay board is protected by a diode so it won't be damaged by incorrectly wiring the board. Use a pair of scissors (or wire cutters) to snip off the plug at the end of the adapter's wires, then strip off 1/4" of the insulation from the two wires. Position the relay board so that the 4-terminal block is on your left side (the 3-digit 7-segment LED is upper left). Then place one wire from the adapter in the top terminal , using a small flat-head screw driver to hold the wire in place. Then position the second wire immediately below the first and screw the wire in place. Plug in the adapter, and look at the LEDs. If they don't light up, unplug the adapter, unscrew the wires, and switch the wires around when re-connecting them to the board. Once you have the board powered up, you'll notice four switches, labelled STOP, SET, UP, and DOWN. Press the SET button for 3 seconds, then release. Then press the UP button a number of times. You will see the MODE types being displayed, such as "P1.1" , "P1.2" , "P1.3" , "P2" , etc. Stop when you get to "P3.2". Then briefly press the SET button again. The letters "OP" will flash, then the existing value (in seconds) will be displayed. Pressing the UP button will increment the time, and the DOWN button will decrease the time. "OP" stands for "relay OPen time". Since we want the relay to cycle every 15 minutes (900 seconds), press and hold the ON button until the LEDs display "900", then briefly press the SET button. The letters "CL" will flash. This stands for "relay CLosed time". Do the same as above to set it to 900 seconds. Then briefly press the SET button. The letters "LOP" will flash. This stands for "number of LOOPS". Since we want the relay to cycle on and off indefinitely, briefly press the DOWN button until "- - -" is displayed. Then briefly press the SET button. Then press the SET button for 3 seconds. The board will then work as desired, with the 3-digit LED start to count down from 900 to 0, then the relay will energize (and a small red LED light will come on). The board will then count down from 900 to 0, and the relay (and small LED light) will turn off. This will continue until the adapter is removed from the wall socket. Because the board will be running all night, you can save some power by having the LED display turn off after 5 minutes. To do this, press the STOP button for 5 seconds. You will see "O-d", which means "display always On". Press STOP so that "C-L" is displayed. This will turn the display off after 5 minutes. You will then select "ON" or "OFF" which will activate or deactivate the relay. Make sure you select "ON". Then wait a couple of seconds and the board will start counting down the seconds. In Part 4 I'll finish this project, talking about connecting the battery pack to the relay board, and connecting the output wire. David

In my previous message I forgot to state the Lee Crock was most insistent that only Carbon-Zinc cells be used, not alkaline / Ni-Cads / or lithium. Furthermore, the way I connected my batteries was different from his (and his system is more practical when buying battery holders). He connected two D-cells in series, so that he would have five sets, and then he connected the five sets together in parallel (making sure that all the positive wires were connected together, and the same for the negative wires). All the necessary items that I list for the home built Crock device will be priced in Canadian dollars since I'm located in Toronto. The first item needed is the timer. I'm using a pre-built programmable timer with a SPST relay. At the moment it costs $11.36. DC 6-30V Digital LED Relay Board Timing Circuit Switch Module Micro USB 5V < https://www.amazon.ca/Digital-Timing-Circuit-Switch-Trigger/dp/B074TBRRTY/ > Regarding the batteries: The last time I built this device was around 2005, and finding battery holders for two D cells was easy and straightforward. A few days ago I went onto Amazon to look at them, and discovered that they weren't available for reasonable prices anymore. One place that still sells them is: 5 pieces 2-D battery holder w/ wires - $1.79ea < https://www.mpja.com/Battery-Holder-2-D-Cell-Series/productinfo/36651+BH/ > For my new Lee Crock device, I've decided to compromise and use a set of ten AA batteries, because the holders are still easily available and the resulting device will be smaller and lighter. 2 sets of ($8.99 ea X 2 = $17.98): LAMPVPATH (Pack of 3) 2 AA Battery Holder, 2 AA Battery Holder with Leads, 2 AA Battery Holder with Wires < https://www.amazon.ca/LAMPVPATH-Battery-Holder-Leads-Wires/dp/B07TB4HDYH/ > This is what Lee Crock had to say about the batteries: " I do know how the body's signal system works that each cell in the body is a cell in the big battery of the body and make an amount of the universal electric energy. The brain signals the cells to function of daily life and all used electric must be discharged. You can not store used electric. And that used electric field around the body is what collects the molecules of heavy metal and pulls them into the body and stores them in the negative energy channels. That stops up the energy channels, stopping the circulation from the cell that lost the signals from the brain. That is why the body shuts down and gets sick. And if you reverse the flow of universal electric energy it will collect those molecules of heavy metal that has been stored in the energy channels and will carry the molecules of heavy metal back out of the body and store them in their source of electric energy batteries so those batteries never go dead in the energy cleaner. Universal electric energy pulled and collected the heavy metal into the body and stored it there. It will pull it out and store it in its supply source. It is very easy to do by placing an electric conductor pad on the outside of the body right over the affected cells and connect an outside source of universal electric energy to it with a 3 (or 15) minute frequency it will pull the heavy metal molecules back out of the body and store it in its electric supply negative plates to open up the energy channels that are plugged. And that does jumpstart the body's immune system into working and gets the body energy circulation to heal the body to be clean - healthy - happy - young. You can use the universal electric energy to pull the heavy metal out. See http://www.edkuniversity.com/ and learn how or get an energy cleaner to pull it out. It has 10 - D size batteries to store the heavy metal in. The batteries don't go dead in the energy cleaner. " So his theory is that the carbon in the batteries fill up with the metal molecules, and given that AA batteries are about one quarter the size of D cells, it seems like a good idea to replace the AA batteries once a year - and use the 10 old AA batteries in flashlights, remote controls, toys etc. Also needed are: 9 or 12 Volt DC Power adapter , current outpu

Well, over a year has passed since the last message for this group. I've decided to open up the type of topics that can be discussed here. I've been recently playing with a homemade Lee Crock device. It goes by a number of names: "Universal Energy Cleaner" "Lee's Fountain of Youth" "Lee's Aura Cleanser" "Bio Stim" etc. If you're not familiar with it, here is Lee's old website: <https://web.archive.org/web/20080221221757/http://www.leesfountainofyouth.com/> Personal Testimonies can be found here: <https://web.archive.org/web/20080227121346/http://www.edkuniversity.com:80/comments.html> Some more info on a newer version: <https://web.archive.org/web/20120113094443/http://www.keelynet.com/mexistim/nexcrock.htm> It is a very basic system, involving a 15 minute timer (15 minutes ON, 15 minutes OFF) and a bank of D-cell batteries to give 3 volts. The timer controls a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) relay. The relay is a magnetic coil which moves a metal lever. When the relay is unactivated the lever is connected to the N.C. (Normally Closed) post. When the relay is activated, the lever moves to the N.O. (Normally Open) post. This allows the relay control two different circuits. The battery bank consists of 10 D cells - 5 batteries are connected in parallel (which gives out 1.5 volts), another 5 batteries are connected the same way, then both sets are connected in series to produce 3 volts. The Positive wire from the battery bank is connected to the N.O. post of the relay, and the Negative wire is connected to the N.C. post. A long wire is connected to the relay's lever and the other end is an alligator clip. The alligator clip can hook onto a wire mesh, placed under your bed's sheets so that while you sleep your aura will interface with the battery bank. Or you can use a metal foot plate or hand plate while you are sitting. So far, my home made system has helped me with insomnia and constipation. In Part 2, I'll show you how to build your own system for less then $100. David

David Snowdon --------Thanks What's the Godzilla? What does it do that the zapper doesn't do.?? KD9AYP. .......73s From: David Snowdon <do804@...> Date: 2/7/2021 10:00 AM (GMT-06:00) To: zapper@groups.io Subject: Re: [zapper] zapper Hello KD9AYP, I used to use the Clark zapper on insect bites, but have found that the "Godzilla" (aka the bio-electrifier) is more effective. I still use the zapper when I feel a cold coming on, and it has been very helpful in reducing the symptoms. David VA3DKS --- lebert@... wrote: > I have used Hulda's Zapper for a long time. I believe in the concept > and have been using it to help heal a wound on my ankle. Wish you all > Well......... lebert@... <mailto:lebert@...> > KD9AYP 73's -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

I have used Hulda's Zapper for a long time. I believe in the concept and have been using it to help heal a wound on my ankle. Wish you all Well......... lebert@... KD9AYP 73's

About a year ago I bought 20 TLC555 CMOS timer chips via Ebay from a Hong Kong (China) seller. Last week I finally got around to use one of them in a Clark zapper circuit - but when I looked at the output signal on my oscilloscope, I saw no waveform. I replaced the IC with a 7555 (which I knew worked) - and I could see a nice 28KHz square wave. I then tested the other 19 chips, and found that none of them worked. If you look at the manufacturer's data sheet, you see that three 100,000 ohm resistors are connected in series (for a total of 300,000 ohms, measurable from pins 1 and 8. Using an ohmmeter, I found infinite resistance from the two pins on all 20 ICs. So the moral of the story is to buy electronic parts from a reliable distributor such as Mouser or Digikey. David -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Here is a list of books from Hulda Clark: Hulda Clark's book: The Cure for All Cancers (1993) The Cure For HIV/AIDS (1993, Updated - 2003) The Cure for All Diseases (1995) The Cure For All Advanced Cancers (1999) Syncrometer Science Laboratory Manual (2000) # The Prevention of all Cancers (2004) # The Cure and Prevention of All Cancers (2007) # Unavailable from the web, available from book sellers. I'm unable to find a copy of her second book, but here is the third book: https://www.dropbox.com/s/e0dyi9o1ub4fqir/03%20-%20CureForAllDiseases.PDF?dl=1 David -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

I started this group with the assumption that it had a file section where members could share information, but it seems that 开云体育 has changed their policy. Now file access is available for only paid groups. So I've decided to use my DropBox account to make a couple of files available to those interested in Hulda Clark's books. The first book is "The Cure for all Cancers", available from this link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/1to4noxuy3xko5s/01%20-%20The%20Cure%20for%20All%20Cancers.pdf?dl=0 David -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

In my previous message I gave a link to download the book "A Cure for all Cancers". Unfortunately I screwed it up slightly: if you click on the link you'll see the book on your screen rather than download it. To transfer the file to your PC, save the link to a text editor, and change the ending from "pdf?dl=0" to "pdf?dl=1", then use the modified link in your web browser. Thanks, David -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Welcome to the zapper e-mail group, dedicated to the memory of Hulda Clark. This group is open to all discussions of alternative health modalities, with emphasis on the theories of Hulda Clark, such as the zapper circuit, high frequency generators, anti-parasite methods, and reducing ones exposure to dangerous chemicals. David -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus