Anthony,?
Thank you for your post.
You have inspired me to once again attempt to model this Train (With Lighting) for the 1896 -1906 Era.
After many failures in N Scale with specifically this scene; since 1977....I may be able to do it next time.
Partially due to the easy access of 100 ?SMD lights via China PAK mail at $17.51.
What I am about to do...was not possible just five short years ago...
Pre-Pandemic.
For one, I didn't have the attitude required.
Much of what I use today in modeling was/is NOT found in Brick & Mortar Train Store Shelves...of yesteryear.
(Many of which have since closed.)
I have become far more serious at times...even a bit Mean.
Example....
I have adopted 21st Century tools...from one simple tweezer to a variety of surgical tweezers.
Along with an all new for me Workbench with Incra 1/4's Channels to hold things in place with both
Sun Natural and LED lights to illuminate my work
====
My next attempt is to create a 4 Poster Stanchions of Code 40 (discarded from failed attempts at hand laid) Rail.
The tiny metal stanchions are replacing failed 4 poster stanchions from Plastic and Toothpicks.
I am not using failed Mini JST Connectors between the cars but instead very thin wiring to resemble two pairs of the 1886 Westinghouse Air Brake Dual Systems between cars.
Meaning ...The Passenger cars will be wired as one train.
Each four post metal stanchion to fit precisely into the corner of the chassis with just enough room for the top shell/roof with windows (perhaps replaced with thin Microscope Glass) to fit over the array.
Yes, I just ordered N Scale 3D printed interior parts for such 19th Century Cars.
The lighting to each side of the Stanchion and down the center to reflect (literally) the lighting of the era 1896-1906.
With the Swinging Oil Lamps (x3), since the Civil War, being augmented with electric lights (x6) above the passenger seating.
I have a wide collection from Other People's Failed and/or Defunct layouts of the?
Bachmann Cars.
Micro Train Civil War era Cars
and?
Athearn/Roundhouse cars & Kits...(pennies to the Train Store MSRP+$)
Meaning ...I am bit less afraid to fail.
... all re-equipped with Z Scale MTL Couplers
but for this next endeavor...
I may try the new MTL couplers which are not meant for switching...(not so easily decoupled).
There may be a bit less Slinky Effect as well, though my trains don't often show that phenomenon.
I use varieties of tiny neodymium magnets from eBay ($19.95 per 500) to test and re-weight not only the individual car but in groups of three or more till the whole train begins to have it's own Center of Gravity, down the center of the train; in conjunction with my #1 Test Steam Locomotive from Japan.
>> I also make my own cheat conductivity end cone devices; ?from Kato Caboose & Tender Parts.
What I am doing today on my dual FUBAR and SNAPFU Layouts resembles little to what I was attempting to do prior to 2018, in my last Basement Train Room:
Freight and Urban Basically Articulated Railway.
Stockton Normally Articulated Passenger, Freight and Urban.
I could not achieve what I am doing today in such an inhospitable basement of a Train Room.
Then after just four years of occupancy 2012-2016); I began to find warped Kato Unitrack.
I could not achieve what I am doing today in such an inhospitable basement of a Train Room
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Prior to 2018, I was a strong Kato Unitrack sort of guy with boxes of Peco, Shinohara, Atlas and Flieschmann Snap Track as well.
Now...
Post Pandemic, where I believed I died three times...I became even more serious.
After 100% success with Code 55, I am failing and learning all over again with Code 40 Rail.
I will be making my 4 poster Lighting Stanchions with such Failed Rail.
Time to Begin Again !
We who are about to live 100 years...Salute You!
:)) Mark
Muddvile, California.
Mark Cartwright