开云体育

Finally 100% it's alive. de W7CPA ar The Japanese FP-301D manual is correct. It's just a bear to markup the sheet with a pencil and then create the ordered 2 byte list for a PROM Programmer. I did

UPDATE: I replaced the d1301/cw01b that FINALLY arrived today. The problem persists and I noticed something that I think might have happened as a result of this thing sitting on my bench forever or

Thank you Pino for the link ! Price is nice ! ? Saw also a company in Switzerland which produces the board, but more expensive. Tnx, 73 ! Othmar, OE1SOW

Thank you Rex for the information ! Let's see how i decide ? I have here a lot of Icom-rigs and not too much space any more, hi... I will have a look at the VOX-unit the next days.

Hi Othmar, if you need a replacement display board look also at the amazing job of WA7ZVY Paul Messer, you can find an example here: https://ebay.us/D4Ur3M Good luck with your restore. Pino,

Hi Othmar and welcome to the group!? Whether or not to repair the 301D is up to you but if you do repair it you will have a fine rig.? The display problem is common with the LED units burning out.?

Hi from Vienna ! I joined the group because I got an FT-301D from a silent-key (sk abt 8 years ago). The trx stood for this long time in a basement on the floor. Unfortunately with no mic and no

First test almost perfect. Telsa 188 clone and TI 288 work fine. I screwed up the programming so one more time. https://hobbyroms.com/ is going to program one more time with my correction. I didn't

Hi Randy, thank you for your answer, I also made the same hypothesis but there is no need of an accessible point for maintenance with the cover closed. Just rotate the jack 90 degrees and you save

Pino, Benvenuto. The 3.5mm jack is an undocumented feature to break and connect to the RF CARD directly. Why, I no idea but the schematic shows it. Patso. Perhaps a way to use only the RF CARD and PA

Hi all, and thanks for welcoming me into the group. I'm Pino IK2HEW and own an FT-301D since I was sixteen. After more than 25 years I've powered up it again and now I'm trying to restore it. I have

I found a good deal on replacements for both D1301 and Q1301 but still waiting for them to arrive, in the meantime I thought I would post some pictures of other things I've fixed and ask another

Mine was also a restoration.? Got it for $40 at a hamfest along with some vintage Heathkit stuff.? It had a bad audio board and two blown out MOSFETS in the front end, along with the PA being

I'll check my junker 301 later today. The first FT-301D I restored? is fully operational in good buddy land (41.5MHz crystal) 10D is also sacrificed for good buddy ops. I got tired of trying to

Does anyone have these?? I can't find them anywhere.? You'd think some CBer would be selling them on Ebay, but no...

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that the following files have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group. * /Booster AMP Variants.docx (

This was my biggest 301 challenge to date. Glad it's behind me, what a pain, too many rabbit holes! The unmodified drift is 300-400Hz I'm told, like other rigs from its day. My KWM2-A drifts that much

Great!? ? SUPER CONGRATULATIONS !!? Very nice accomplishment and what a wonderful adventure.? Thanks so much for sharing. Guess I am fortunate that mine is still 100% stock- except I replaced all

More progress on pretty, pretty, keeper final updates. 1. I ordered and assembled the Elcon EL-31 display replacement. I calibrated the display using a precision freq counter and sig gen on the

This is what I'm leaning towards, and barring the availability of anything more than rudimentary test equipment would be the easiest to try. If replacement of D1301 doesn't solve the problem then the