Finally 100% it's alive.
de W7CPA ar
The Japanese FP-301D manual is correct.
It's just a bear to markup the sheet with a pencil and then create the ordered 2 byte list for a PROM Programmer.
I did this for grins and probably will never use it.
The 10 minute timer only works if PTT is enabled for 10 minutes straight with no interruptions.
Interesting olde 1970s digital design.

Cheers all,

UPDATE:
I replaced the d1301/cw01b that FINALLY arrived today. The problem persists and I noticed something that I think might have happened as a result of this thing sitting on my bench forever or its possible i missed this before, but I doubt it. I have a stray wire! Does anyone know where this brown wire is supposed to go? Who knows, maybe it will fix my problem. Would be nice considering I'm STILL waiting for the Q1301. Apparently this coronavirus thing is holding up a lot of shipments. Hope everyone is well.

Thank you Pino for the link !
Price is nice ! ?
Saw also a company in Switzerland which produces the board, but more expensive.

Tnx, 73 !
Othmar, OE1SOW

Thank you Rex for the information !

Let's see how i decide ?
I have here a lot of Icom-rigs and not too much space any more, hi...
I will have a look at the VOX-unit the next days.
LSB/USB-"problem" is band-depending...so I think the trx needs some alingment.
I will give the group info if I will try to repair or to put in on the market.

Thanks again and good DX !
73, Othmar, OE1SOW

Hi Othmar,

if you need a replacement display board look also at the amazing job of WA7ZVY Paul Messer, you can find an example here: Good luck with your restore.

Pino, IK2HEW

At 13.39 10/06/2020, Rex K0KP wrote:

Hi Othmar and welcome to the group!? Whether or not to repair the 301D is up to you but if you do repair it you will have a fine rig.? The display problem is common with the LED units burning out.? Replacement display units are difficult to find.? Elcon makes a nice replacement display for the rig, there is information about the Elcon unit posted at this site.? Look in the "Files" section and click on the "Modifications" folder.? The problem with the VOX module should be repairable without too much difficulty.? Yes the LSB reception problem could be an alignment issue or perhaps a problem with the LSB carrier oscillator.? Good luck and keep us posted with your work on what could be a great rig.? The receiver is spectacular in this radio.

Hi from Vienna !?

I joined the group because I got an FT-301D from a silent-key (sk abt 8 years ago).?

The trx stood for this long time in a basement on the floor. Unfortunately with no mic and no power-cord.

Took it home and put it on 12 V.?

Meter-lamp is ok, the frequency-display is not 100% ok, some digits are missing, but I read this is kind of "normal" :-)?

But...there was no reception...no audio coming out of the speaker.?

A little later I realized that the trx it on "tx" even with no mic plugged in.?

MOX was not enabled. Then I checked all the plug-in-cards (nice design !), but again no difference.?

So I pulled out the VOX-unit and...voila - there was reception !?

Faults that I found:?

1) The always on "tx" - problem and?

2) the reception in USB and LSB is not equal on all bands.?

? ? e.g. on 40m there is nearly no rx on LSB (USB is ok)?

Maybe it is just a case of alignment... ?

Anyone had similar problems or knows what might be the problem with this trx ??

Rx without the VOX-unit is ok now, power output is also ok (100W CW/SSB, 25W AM), modulation is ok...

Is it worth repairing it ??

Or shall I sell it for spare parts ??

It is in a nice old shape with some scratches on it, but the front looks really nice.?

Should be from a very early series, it has the 11m-band between 15m and 10m,?

but its not the "CBM"-version.?

Any help is appreciated ! :-)?

?

Thanks a lot for reading,?

73 from Vienna/Austria?

Othmar, OE1SOW

First test almost perfect.
Telsa 188 clone and TI 288 work fine.
I screwed up the programming so one more time.
is going to program one more time with my correction.
I didn't transpose the manual work sheet to the ordered 2 byte programming sequence correctly, hosed? one byte up.

The result was DE W7CP <bluh snuf, mumble> AR

Hi Randy,

thank you for your answer, I also made the same hypothesis but there is no need of an accessible point for maintenance with the cover closed.
Just rotate the jack 90 degrees and you save an hole and a rubber plug.
I also made another guess about a possible synthesizer accessory, never sold.
At that time, as far as I know, no amateur transceiver had memories and Yaesu already proved its "capabilities" with the FT-225's memory unit accessory.
May be that somewhere, somebody have an hidden picture.....
Or just an idea to connect there a DDS to the FT-301...

About the "A" version, digital, with booster unit installed, as visible on advertising, have you ever heard about differences with the non-A ?

Thank a lot again.

Cheers,

Pino.

At 02.20 02/06/2020, you wrote:

Pino,
Benvenuto.

The 3.5mm jack is an undocumented feature to break and connect to the RF CARD directly. Why, I no idea but the schematic shows it. Patso. Perhaps a way to use only the RF CARD and PA for factory test purposes?

The different models are low power variants but documentation does not exist.

Cheers,

Randy
Arizona USA

Hi all,

and thanks for welcoming me into the group. I'm Pino IK2HEW and own an FT-301D since I was sixteen. After more than 25 years I've powered up it again and now I'm trying to restore it.
I have a couple of questions for experts. Despite my research, I never got an answer.
Does anybody know the use of the 3.5 mm jack below the rubber plug on the rigth side of the case ?
It disconnect power to the premix board and route the signal coming from the jack to the RF board in place of the one coming from the premix.
The second question concern the know differences between the FT-301D and FT-301AD versions.
I never found any document on this subject.

Thank you all in advance for your help.

Pino.

I found a good deal on replacements for both D1301 and Q1301 but still waiting for them to arrive, in the meantime I thought I would post some pictures of other things I've fixed and ask another question. When I first got this rig it was poorly shipped and beat to hell in addition to the technical problems. The VFO knob was smacked so hard it shattered the plastic ring around the knob. Since I don't have a 3d printer I carefully collected all the pieces and reconstructed it:



I sanded it smooth and am going to put some light coats of paint to hide the (barely noticeable) cracks and think I will get it extremely close to the original.?

Now one problem is the VFO mechanism took a beating as well and the knob is no longer smooth. I can only find a replacement VFO from the analog version and I'm not sure if they are interchangeable? Maybe someone knows the answer to that. I may also be replacing the display with the aftermarket display from elcon so I think I need to take the VFO out anyway.

Mine was also a restoration.? Got it for $40 at a hamfest along with some vintage Heathkit stuff.? It had a bad audio board and two blown out MOSFETS in the front end, along with the PA being connected backwards and bad S meter.? Works great, still has an AM alignment issue.

I'll check my junker 301 later today.
The first FT-301D I restored? is fully operational in good buddy land (41.5MHz crystal)
10D is also sacrificed for good buddy ops. I got tired of trying to figure out what they did since I plan to sell this one on eBay to recover some $ on the restoration quest.

Does anyone have these?? I can't find them anywhere.? You'd think some CBer would be selling them on Ebay, but no...

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that the following files have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group.

• /Booster AMP Variants.docx

Uploaded By: Randy W7CPA <randybest@...>

Description:
Later model FT-301D units had a relay added to the 100 watt amp not shown on many schematics.

Cheers,
The 开云体育 Team

This was my biggest 301 challenge to date.
Glad it's behind me, what a pain, too many rabbit holes!
The unmodified drift is 300-400Hz I'm told, like other rigs from its day.
My KWM2-A drifts that much then settles down.
Having <20Hz drift in 2 hours from dead cold makes this worth the effort.

Cheers

Great!? ? SUPER CONGRATULATIONS !!? Very nice accomplishment and what a wonderful adventure.? Thanks so much for sharing.

Guess I am fortunate that mine is still 100% stock- except I replaced all the electrolytic capacitors a few years back which fixed a couple of pesky issues that had crept in.? Plus I know I replaced that triac fixing the blinking S meter back when it was fairly new.? Fortunately when I first bought it in 1978 I purchased some extra TIL 106's and 108's for the display and still have a few.? Mine drifts about 250 Hz at first turn on after which it is very stable.? I have babied the rig all these years keeping it like new.

I do have the newer display and was going to install it but I decided to keep is as an ace in the hole just in case.??

KEEP THOSE 301'S RUNNING!

More progress on pretty, pretty, keeper final updates.

1. I ordered and assembled the Elcon EL-31 display replacement. I calibrated the display using a precision freq counter and sig gen on the bench. This is easy, just apply 5vdc and have it it. After the simple install all is well, beautiful modern 7 segment displays. I bought 6 spares from Mouser, cheap $1.80.

2. I ordered and assembled the Elcon EL-33 VFO stabilizer. After the somewhat difficult install I was hoping for the most excellent? <20Hz drift in 2 hours like my first FT-301D. Of course, something is wrong with this one >120Hz drift and it never stabilizes. This had a major rabbit hole chase to find the root cause. After considerable debug effort here is what I found:

a. The EL-31 is not drifting and is performing perfectly.
b. The EL-33 is performing as designed to stabilize the VFO frequency. The fake news is coming from the display system.
c. The front panel CALIB pot voltage is what is drifting causing my fake news.This voltage is developed from the reg 5v and controls a varactor diode in the Counter board to vary the display indicated frequency.
5. I changed the 8v and 5v 3 legged regulators to modern TI linear parts to improve reg 5v. This made reg 5v perfect BUT IS NOT THE STINKING ROOT CAUSE of the display drift.
6. The D2211 varactor tuning diode in the Counter Mix card is hyper temperature sensitive. I could blow on it and and it changed the load. I found 10 original NEC parts in TAIWAN and I uploaded the data sheet to Files. My first FT-301D is super stable so this is just a bad part problem.

Hopefully the end is near, I plan some minor calibration touch ups then putting covers on.

开云体育

This is what I'm leaning towards, and barring the availability of anything more than rudimentary test equipment would be the easiest to try. If replacement of D1301 doesn't solve the problem then the fault is with Q1301.

73 - Fred, N8YX