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All, Didn't win the bet with Jay about when the engines would be done, but the fhead 4 did start up last Sunday. It's been too hot to do much more work on it. Current hilarious argument- when the coolant went in, there were leaks around the front and back exhaust manifold studs. After a 20-minute break in run, the leaks stopped. So, my mechanic friend wants me to drain the coolant, extract the studs, put the magic high temp, should be illegal (forever chemical- teflon) sealant on the studs, reassemble. I say that cooked antifreeze seems to be a good sealant, if it's not broke, why fix it? I asked the machine shop to give the oil pump an 11:00, big side up, orientation of the oil pump shaft, so the distributor would have cylinder #1 at 6:00. They did, but at some point the distributor was re worked so #1 is at 12:00, which makes working on timing difficult. I recall extending the range of travel of the distributor mounting plate decades ago so I could get the timing right, never guessed this was the problem. So, the mechanic identifies replacement distributors for $130, wants to help me stimulate the economy some more. But, the replacement distributor is not stock, has no vacuum advance, etc. (Could have Jay buy me a new one so he can have the vacuum advance...) He says we can reorient the distributor next winter. Another old friend, who first worked on the engine with me when we were 19 (to make the engine use less than a quart of oil every 60 miles), wanted me to replace the clutch and pressure plate. The old pressure plate is thinner than the new one. There was a large, maybe 4" wide, thick washer that rode between the throw out bearing and the pressure plate. No knowing any better, we tried to put this back in, would not fit, bell housing wouldn't go on. Removed the washer, all's good, much easier to make the throw-out lever stay in place, too. The theory is that there was a resurfacing operation on the old pressure plate, which required the washer to replace the thickness removed by resurfacing. Don't know. When replacement parts were made domestically, the high cost of new may have made a redo cost effective. With Asian parts, it's a lot cheaper to put in new. I feared installation of the clutch linkage, a rube of a shaft, springs, washers in a tight space. The mechanic had a great idea here; look in the manual. Sure enough, there's a good diagram in there that helped us get it together. He accused me of being cheap about replacing the cotter pins with new, but I had new replacements "on hand", so we were good. "What's the screen door spring doing under here" was the next question. Off to the hardware store to get a more appropriate return spring. The old spring was attached to the car with perfectly fine, authentic hay baling wire, and I have yards of it still in stock. Not good enough for a real mechanic- how can you adjust it? So, there now is a strip of sheet metal, with a twist in the middle, to fill in the gap. The machine shop provided a pre oiling tank; suggested using a scale to determine when we were about to run out of oil, in order to avoid pushing the oil out with compressed air. We used a simple bike hand pump, and I put a section of clear tubing in the line so we could see when we were running out and stop pumping. Worked fine. The oil is impregnated with gold, or at least costs like it, break in oil with ZDDP additives, ouch! But, less expensive than a rebuild. Before this work, the gauges were like this, left to right: Fuel, moved, a full tank registered just over half. Oil pressure guage displayed, accuracy not really known. Temperature guage barely moved. Ammeter seemed OK. Now, the fuel gauge moved with almost nothing in the tank, hoping it's better with a plastic float replacing gas logged cork. Oil pressure seems low to me on an overhauled engine, shows 30-35, don't know a test procedure, perhaps a manual gauge? Temperature gauge fixed by new sensor. Ammeter seems fine. There are no drips on the pan under the car. Some will come, of course, but I'm hoping for less leakage and a non-chattering c

After a 26-year nap, my grandfather's 62 Willys Wagon fired and ran this past weekend. We are still working on the brakes, permanent fuel setup, and getting it to idle. I am looking for a good used tailgate and 16" rims in the Virginia/TN area. Thank you, Gavin

Continuing on the story, the engine from the wagon went to the machine shop for an evaluation. They didn't like this condition: What we have are genuine block cracks, cylinders 2 and 3, that go from about an inch on the top, under the valve seat, and down the inside of the valve "hole", not sure of the proper name. While Locknstich makes products and has a process for dealing with cracks, the depth down the valve hole they didn't like. So, the search began for a replacement block. Nothing on Craigslist, anywhere within 1000 miles. 150 miles to the south were a pair of engines that were complete, that had been used for a school project years ago, then stored. Engine #1 looked like this: No pistons, or pushrod's; surface cylinder rust, one crack, but smaller, and does not extend below valve seat. But never bored out. Decided to look at engine #2: Notice the crack across the top, including under the peened area, and from the exhaust valve. I took this engine back. There turned out to be a third block, with no head. It looked great on the top, no cracks, never bored, hooray! Until a side view revealed... A little patch and JB weld, maybe? This engine does have a good crankshaft, helpful connecting rods, and a decent camshaft. So, we're going with the first block, with some parts, probably, from the third block. Dan -- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR

So, the Fhead is at the machine shop; they found two cracks in the block, both visually begin about an inch from an exhaust valve seat, goes there, and reappears below the valve seat insert. Concern is potential leaks, failure to pass a pressure test, whether or not a repair is possible or advised. Hard to see in this picture, basically two similar cracks within the yellow area. They'd prefer that another block be found. Anybody have an Fhead block around? Dan -- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR

First, a Saturday test. Turned over the engine, and this piece fell out. I have an idea- any others Also, Spent a lot of time trying to figure out the "Best gasket Co" seal, concerning the desired diameter of the race of the seal area used for the rear main seal. This started because the metal shaper person on YouTube, who's overhauled many 4 cylinder Willys engines, concluded in 2020 that the Best seal would not work with the diameter used by those that regrind and refurbish crankshafts, which he said was 2.310 inches. instead, this seal required 2.335"; if ground to 2.310, the seal will leak. Other sources on the diameter include Willys specifications, 2.331to 2.3341; the Cj2A page says 2.345. My guess is that the Willys documentation, for all years, assumes a rope seal; and that the Cj2A page does as well. There also is a published standard from the association of machine shops in 2002 (AERO, there will be a test later) that says 2.3202-2.312 is correct if using a non rope seal. Probably the 2.310 evolved since 2002. I contacted The Jeepterman, who sells these seals, they didn't know anything about it. I tried to contact Best, but they didn't respond to email and don't answer the phone. I posted to the metalshaper YouTube video via a comment, asking if this problem had been resolved; fortunately, the answer is yes, the Best seal now works well with the 2.310 diameter. So that's what I'm going to ask the machinist to do. Dan -- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR

Going ahead with the crankshaft replacement, in order to get a non corroded surface for the rear main seal. With good help, the engine is out. Looked for other issues, fortunately, the valves look great; relieved to find hardened valve seats. Cylinder wall also are fine, no ridges, etc. Will replace the rings while it's open. Thinking of ordering from Kaiser Willys a replacement crankshaft. Hoping the USA made rear main seal will work. Hope the crank will be within specs for the bearing surface. Experience or advice concerning the crankshaft or seal would be welcome. Dan -- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR