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Fhead work in progress
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý
So, not remembering what I shared before,? so going to repeat some.? Have a bad case of scope creep.? The original desire was to fix a leaky rear seal situation.?? The crankshaft was rusted/corroded on the surface the rear main seal rides, so crankshaft removal
was required.? The engine ran fine otherwise.
Disassembly of the engine, with considerable help from friend #1, raised a concern that the connecting rods did not match up, with the #3 weighing more than the other three; he suggested taking the engine to a machine shop, so this, or any other problems, could
be identified. and the crankshaft checked out.?? Friend #2 said- now,? how long has the engine run just fine with the connecting rod mismatch?? (decades).
The "examination" revealed cracks in the block that the machine shop thought beyond where they would want to go with a "locknstich"? repair, because the cracks- cylinders 2 and 3- extended from the hardened exhaust valve seats on to the head surface- repairable-and
also under the valve seat and down under the valve- where the exhaust heads to the manifold- about an inch, which they did not want to tackle with locknstich.? I think I sent a picture of this out.?? I did contact Locknstich, and they said this was a common
repair that they would do, shipping the block to them and so on.? Instead, search for another block began, saga explained previously,? wound up with one that would work.
So, the work with the new block continues- the old block went to the machine shop mid December, I think.?
-The machine shop had a replacement, correct, connecting rod in their "piles of old stuff".
-The crankshaft (from the original engine) cleaned up nicely with polishing only,? diameters good, including for the new rear seal.
-They ordered replacement exhaust valves, twice, both wrong, decided to use the best 4 from the two blocks.
-In the replacement block, the lifters were no longer "flat tappet" but "cupped tappet", (in the replacement block)- they ship these out for resurfacing to their camshaft redoing company- too far gone to redo, but the ones from the original engine were able
to be re ground flat.
-camshaft redone
-Elected to go with new pistons (what's another $80 to the Chinese).
-Block cleaned up at "40 over".
Having them resurface the flywheel; replacing the clutch,? pressure plate, throwout bearing.
They do test for leaks on the rear seal:? Turn the engine on end, putting oil on the seal, leave it overnight and look for oil in the wrong place in the morning.? After assembly, they will make sure compression is good, and also that the effort to turn the
engine over is correct.? They will loan me a setup to pre oil the engine, a pressure tank that forces oil through the oil pressure guage sensor "hole".?? They will sell me some? gawdawfully expensive break in oil.
Assuming the leaks are greatly reduced, will use gold plated "High Zddp" oil.??
In the "harmonywithspouse" department, I decided to clean up the exhaust manifold, which was fun, using the electrolysis method, washing soda, plastic tube, steel anode,? battery charger, etc.? Worked pretty well, bought high temperature, ceramic Rustoleum
spray paint.?? Then I read the directions- heat to 200 degrees, allow to cool, repeat at 400 and 600 degrees.? Now, by waiting until the oven owner is out of town, it would be possible to do 200 and 400 degrees, 600, how to do that?? I confessed about the
plan;? the response was "as predicted".
I called Rustoleum technical support.
Will be whining and complaining when the costa are added up.?
Dan
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýDan,I salute you for doing your best to bring the heart of your old Willys back to life. ? ?Of course, as Donald Rumsfeld pointed out all those years ago, in any endeavour there are ¡°Known knowns", and ¡°Known unknowns". ?The big problem can arise with ¡°Unknown unknowns¡±. ?Let¡¯s all hope this turns out well for you! PuN.
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