|
Got my Willys back today.
Im going nuts. Just replaced the dang clutch, and the throwout bearing, and transfer external case and some gear repair inside the transfer case...?
When I depress the clutch pedal, going into 1st or R every time I have to wait at least 3 to 5 seconds for the flywheel or whatever to it is to stop spinning so it accepts the shifting without grinding.? EVERY. TIME. However if I first shift into 2nd and then into 1st, it accepts the shift w/o grinding or having to pause the 3 seconds. They played with the rpms, they played with clutch adjustments. To where now the clutch is set so as Im releasing the pedal there's nothing, nothing, nothing and then at the top of the release I got about an inch or 2 and ... woosh it suddenly engages.?
No problems shifting into 2 or 3rd, or back.
Any ideas anyone? Im getting desperate does anyone know old school transmision wizard in the Los Angeles area?
HELLLLPPP!
|
Sounds like the clutch in my FC-170. I have been fiddling with the linkage attempting to find the sweet spot…. I too want to know the answer!
Got my Willys back today.
Im going nuts. Just replaced the dang clutch, and the throwout bearing, and transfer external case and some gear repair inside the transfer case...?
When I depress the clutch pedal, going into 1st or R every time I have to wait at least 3 to 5 seconds for the flywheel or whatever to it is to stop spinning so it accepts the shifting without grinding.? EVERY. TIME. However if I first shift into 2nd and then into 1st, it accepts the shift w/o grinding or having to pause the 3 seconds. They played with the rpms, they played with clutch adjustments. To where now the clutch is set so as Im releasing the pedal there's nothing, nothing, nothing and then at the top of the release I got about an inch or 2 and ... woosh it suddenly engages.?
No problems shifting into 2 or 3rd, or back.
Any ideas anyone? Im getting desperate does anyone know old school transmision wizard in the Los Angeles area?
HELLLLPPP!
|
I had an even worse case of new clutch-itis with our wagon. ?I'm convinced the new clutch pressure plate doesn't have the same "throw" as the old one ? But I'll be damned if the whole thing's coming out again unless absolutely necessary. ?At first, I took all the slack (worn components) out of the old horrible Willys clutch mechanism, but this made no difference.
In the end, I shimmed the pressure plate 34 thousands on the flywheel (perhaps yet another of my unforgivable sins) but what really made the difference was removing the rubber buffer on the pedal, just below the floor boards. ?This allowed the pedal to come up higher and therefore have a longer throw. ?This was the only way to get the clutch to release. ?Even with this unorthodox trick, there is zero free play.
What you really have to be sure about, with the clutch pedal released, is whether or not the throw-out bearing touches the pressure plate - it shouldn't. ?This is easy to check on a Willys.
Pavel up North
On 2021-06-01, at 7:31 PM, gandre wrote: Sounds like the clutch in my FC-170. I have been fiddling with the linkage attempting to find the sweet spot…. I too want to know the answer! Got my Willys back today.
Im going nuts. Just replaced the dang clutch, and the throwout bearing, and transfer external case and some gear repair inside the transfer case...?
When I depress the clutch pedal, going into 1st or R every time I have to wait at least 3 to 5 seconds for the flywheel or whatever to it is to stop spinning so it accepts the shifting without grinding.? EVERY. TIME. However if I first shift into 2nd and then into 1st, it accepts the shift w/o grinding or having to pause the 3 seconds. They played with the rpms, they played with clutch adjustments. To where now the clutch is set so as Im releasing the pedal there's nothing, nothing, nothing and then at the top of the release I got about an inch or 2 and ... woosh it suddenly engages.?
No problems shifting into 2 or 3rd, or back.
Any ideas anyone? Im getting desperate does anyone know old school transmision wizard in the Los Angeles area?
HELLLLPPP!
|
Dude... As always... You come through. You are the friggen BEST!?
Thank you sir. I will relay this to my mechanic
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: willyswagon230 <pavelb@...> Date: 6/1/21 8:20 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.
I had an even worse case of new clutch-itis with our wagon. ?I'm convinced the new clutch pressure plate doesn't have the same "throw" as the old one ? But I'll be damned if the whole thing's coming out again unless absolutely necessary. ?At first, I took all the slack (worn components) out of the old horrible Willys clutch mechanism, but this made no difference.
In the end, I shimmed the pressure plate 34 thousands on the flywheel (perhaps yet another of my unforgivable sins) but what really made the difference was removing the rubber buffer on the pedal, just below the floor boards. ?This allowed the pedal to come up higher and therefore have a longer throw. ?This was the only way to get the clutch to release. ?Even with this unorthodox trick, there is zero free play.
What you really have to be sure about, with the clutch pedal released, is whether or not the throw-out bearing touches the pressure plate - it shouldn't. ?This is easy to check on a Willys.
Pavel up North
On 2021-06-01, at 7:31 PM, gandre wrote: Sounds like the clutch in my FC-170. I have been fiddling with the linkage attempting to find the sweet spot…. I too want to know the answer! Got my Willys back today.
Im going nuts. Just replaced the dang clutch, and the throwout bearing, and transfer external case and some gear repair inside the transfer case...?
When I depress the clutch pedal, going into 1st or R every time I have to wait at least 3 to 5 seconds for the flywheel or whatever to it is to stop spinning so it accepts the shifting without grinding.? EVERY. TIME. However if I first shift into 2nd and then into 1st, it accepts the shift w/o grinding or having to pause the 3 seconds. They played with the rpms, they played with clutch adjustments. To where now the clutch is set so as Im releasing the pedal there's nothing, nothing, nothing and then at the top of the release I got about an inch or 2 and ... woosh it suddenly engages.?
No problems shifting into 2 or 3rd, or back.
Any ideas anyone? Im getting desperate does anyone know old school transmision wizard in the Los Angeles area?
HELLLLPPP!
|
Glad to offer a few words... ?Perhaps you could start by repositioning the "rubber buffer" under the floor boards - this can be done in 15 minutes ($30 mechanic's bill?) All you have to do is take out the clam floor board pieces that are around the pedals and wiggle the rubber bung upwards until it is right under the actual pedal pad. ?Then adjust the lunkge "tighter". This alone might let the clutch work acceptably.
Cheers and best of luck. ?PUN.
On 2021-06-01, at 8:24 PM, AWORKOFMARC wrote: Dude... As always... You come through. You are the friggen BEST!?
Thank you sir. I will relay this to my mechanic
-------- Original message -------- Date: 6/1/21 8:20 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.
I had an even worse case of new clutch-itis with our wagon. ?I'm convinced the new clutch pressure plate doesn't have the same "throw" as the old one ? But I'll be damned if the whole thing's coming out again unless absolutely necessary. ?At first, I took all the slack (worn components) out of the old horrible Willys clutch mechanism, but this made no difference.
In the end, I shimmed the pressure plate 34 thousands on the flywheel (perhaps yet another of my unforgivable sins) but what really made the difference was removing the rubber buffer on the pedal, just below the floor boards. ?This allowed the pedal to come up higher and therefore have a longer throw. ?This was the only way to get the clutch to release. ?Even with this unorthodox trick, there is zero free play.
What you really have to be sure about, with the clutch pedal released, is whether or not the throw-out bearing touches the pressure plate - it shouldn't. ?This is easy to check on a Willys.
Pavel up North
On 2021-06-01, at 7:31 PM, gandre wrote: Sounds like the clutch in my FC-170. I have been fiddling with the linkage attempting to find the sweet spot…. I too want to know the answer! Got my Willys back today.
Im going nuts. Just replaced the dang clutch, and the throwout bearing, and transfer external case and some gear repair inside the transfer case...?
When I depress the clutch pedal, going into 1st or R every time I have to wait at least 3 to 5 seconds for the flywheel or whatever to it is to stop spinning so it accepts the shifting without grinding.? EVERY. TIME. However if I first shift into 2nd and then into 1st, it accepts the shift w/o grinding or having to pause the 3 seconds. They played with the rpms, they played with clutch adjustments. To where now the clutch is set so as Im releasing the pedal there's nothing, nothing, nothing and then at the top of the release I got about an inch or 2 and ... woosh it suddenly engages.?
No problems shifting into 2 or 3rd, or back.
Any ideas anyone? Im getting desperate does anyone know old school transmision wizard in the Los Angeles area?
HELLLLPPP!
|
Actually it sounds normal for a non syncro first gear. Bumping into second before going into first or reverse helps get the gears spinning together. As for the clutch adjustment, make sure you have about 1/2"- 1" of Freeplay and that the clutch doesn't start to engage until the pedal comes off the floor.
John '56 Pickup TKER TOY
On Tue, Jun 1, 2021 at 8:24 PM, AWORKOFMARC <marcwhittemore@...> wrote: Dude... As always... You come through. You are the friggen BEST!?
Thank you sir. I will relay this to my mechanic
-------- Original message -------- From: willyswagon230 <pavelb@...> Date: 6/1/21 8:20 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.
I had an even worse case of new clutch-itis with our wagon. ?I'm convinced the new clutch pressure plate doesn't have the same "throw" as the old one ? But I'll be damned if the whole thing's coming out again unless absolutely necessary. ?At first, I took all the slack (worn components) out of the old horrible Willys clutch mechanism, but this made no difference.
In the end, I shimmed the pressure plate 34 thousands on the flywheel (perhaps yet another of my unforgivable sins) but what really made the difference was removing the rubber buffer on the pedal, just below the floor boards. ?This allowed the pedal to come up higher and therefore have a longer throw. ?This was the only way to get the clutch to release. ?Even with this unorthodox trick, there is zero free play.
What you really have to be sure about, with the clutch pedal released, is whether or not the throw-out bearing touches the pressure plate - it shouldn't. ?This is easy to check on a Willys.
Pavel up North
On 2021-06-01, at 7:31 PM, gandre wrote: Sounds like the clutch in my FC-170. I have been fiddling with the linkage attempting to find the sweet spot…. I too want to know the answer! Got my Willys back today.
Im going nuts. Just replaced the dang clutch, and the throwout bearing, and transfer external case and some gear repair inside the transfer case...?
When I depress the clutch pedal, going into 1st or R every time I have to wait at least 3 to 5 seconds for the flywheel or whatever to it is to stop spinning so it accepts the shifting without grinding.? EVERY. TIME. However if I first shift into 2nd and then into 1st, it accepts the shift w/o grinding or having to pause the 3 seconds. They played with the rpms, they played with clutch adjustments. To where now the clutch is set so as Im releasing the pedal there's nothing, nothing, nothing and then at the top of the release I got about an inch or 2 and ... woosh it suddenly engages.?
No problems shifting into 2 or 3rd, or back.
Any ideas anyone? Im getting desperate does anyone know old school transmision wizard in the Los Angeles area?
HELLLLPPP!
|
Thanks John!?
I just told my mechanic friend about this list... how its saved my bacon several times...? He loves old school so he might join.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: "John Barrett via groups.io" <tkertoy@...> Date: 6/1/21 8:51 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.
Actually it sounds normal for a non syncro first gear. Bumping into second before going into first or reverse helps get the gears spinning together. As for the clutch adjustment, make sure you have about 1/2"- 1" of Freeplay and that the clutch doesn't start to engage until the pedal comes off the floor.
John '56 Pickup TKER TOY Graham, Wash. On Tue, Jun 1, 2021 at 8:24 PM, AWORKOFMARC <marcwhittemore@...> wrote: Dude... As always... You come through. You are the friggen BEST!?
Thank you sir. I will relay this to my mechanic
-------- Original message -------- From: willyswagon230 <pavelb@...> Date: 6/1/21 8:20 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.
I had an even worse case of new clutch-itis with our wagon. ?I'm convinced the new clutch pressure plate doesn't have the same "throw" as the old one ? But I'll be damned if the whole thing's coming out again unless absolutely necessary. ?At first, I took all the slack (worn components) out of the old horrible Willys clutch mechanism, but this made no difference.
In the end, I shimmed the pressure plate 34 thousands on the flywheel (perhaps yet another of my unforgivable sins) but what really made the difference was removing the rubber buffer on the pedal, just below the floor boards. ?This allowed the pedal to come up higher and therefore have a longer throw. ?This was the only way to get the clutch to release. ?Even with this unorthodox trick, there is zero free play.
What you really have to be sure about, with the clutch pedal released, is whether or not the throw-out bearing touches the pressure plate - it shouldn't. ?This is easy to check on a Willys.
Pavel up North
On 2021-06-01, at 7:31 PM, gandre wrote: Sounds like the clutch in my FC-170. I have been fiddling with the linkage attempting to find the sweet spot…. I too want to know the answer! Got my Willys back today.
Im going nuts. Just replaced the dang clutch, and the throwout bearing, and transfer external case and some gear repair inside the transfer case...?
When I depress the clutch pedal, going into 1st or R every time I have to wait at least 3 to 5 seconds for the flywheel or whatever to it is to stop spinning so it accepts the shifting without grinding.? EVERY. TIME. However if I first shift into 2nd and then into 1st, it accepts the shift w/o grinding or having to pause the 3 seconds. They played with the rpms, they played with clutch adjustments. To where now the clutch is set so as Im releasing the pedal there's nothing, nothing, nothing and then at the top of the release I got about an inch or 2 and ... woosh it suddenly engages.?
No problems shifting into 2 or 3rd, or back.
Any ideas anyone? Im getting desperate does anyone know old school transmision wizard in the Los Angeles area?
HELLLLPPP!
|
I am certainly a novice in this area. When I bout my WWII jeep the seller explained to me that this grind was because there are no synchros in these old transmissions and the solution is to double clutch. Was I mislead?
Get
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks John!?
I just told my mechanic friend about this list... how its saved my bacon several times...? He loves old school so he might join.?
-------- Original message --------
From: "John Barrett via groups.io" <tkertoy@...>
Date: 6/1/21 8:51 PM (GMT-08:00)
Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.
Actually it sounds normal for a non syncro first gear. Bumping into second before going into first or reverse helps get the gears spinning together.
As for the clutch adjustment, make sure you have about 1/2"- 1" of Freeplay and that the clutch doesn't start to engage until the pedal comes off the floor.
John
'56 Pickup TKER TOY
Graham, Wash.
On Tue, Jun 1, 2021 at 8:24 PM, AWORKOFMARC
<marcwhittemore@...> wrote:
Dude... As always... You come through. You are the friggen BEST!?
Thank you sir. I will relay this to my mechanic
-------- Original message --------
From: willyswagon230 <pavelb@...>
Date: 6/1/21 8:20 PM (GMT-08:00)
Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.
I had an even worse case of new clutch-itis with our wagon. ?I'm convinced the new clutch pressure plate doesn't have the same "throw" as the old one ? But I'll be damned if the whole thing's coming out again unless absolutely necessary. ?At first, I took all
the slack (worn components) out of the old horrible Willys clutch mechanism, but this made no difference.
In the end, I shimmed the pressure plate 34 thousands on the flywheel (perhaps yet another of my unforgivable sins) but what really made the difference was removing the rubber buffer on the pedal, just below the floor boards. ?This allowed the pedal to
come up higher and therefore have a longer throw. ?This was the only way to get the clutch to release. ?Even with this unorthodox trick, there is zero free play.
What you really have to be sure about, with the clutch pedal released, is whether or not the throw-out bearing touches the pressure plate - it shouldn't. ?This is easy to check on a Willys.
Pavel up North
On 2021-06-01, at 7:31 PM, gandre wrote:
Sounds like the clutch in my FC-170. I have been fiddling with the linkage attempting to find the sweet spot…. I too want to know the answer!
Got my Willys back today.
Im going nuts. Just replaced the dang clutch, and the throwout bearing, and transfer external case and some gear repair inside the transfer case...?
When I depress the clutch pedal, going into 1st or R every time I have to wait at least 3 to 5 seconds for the flywheel or whatever to it is to stop spinning so it accepts the shifting without grinding.? EVERY. TIME. However if I first shift into 2nd and
then into 1st, it accepts the shift w/o grinding or having to pause the 3 seconds. They played with the rpms, they played with clutch adjustments. To where now the clutch is set so as Im releasing the pedal there's nothing, nothing, nothing and then at the
top of the release I got about an inch or 2 and ... woosh it suddenly engages.?
No problems shifting into 2 or 3rd, or back.
Any ideas anyone? Im getting desperate does anyone know old school transmision wizard in the Los Angeles area?
HELLLLPPP!
|
My mechanic said to ask this:
If the clutch disk is supposed to stop, does that mean the? shaft and trans stop spinning?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: willyswagon230 <pavelb@...> Date: 6/1/21 8:47 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.
Glad to offer a few words... ?Perhaps you could start by repositioning the "rubber buffer" under the floor boards - this can be done in 15 minutes ($30 mechanic's bill?) All you have to do is take out the clam floor board pieces that are around the pedals and wiggle the rubber bung upwards until it is right under the actual pedal pad. ?Then adjust the lunkge "tighter". This alone might let the clutch work acceptably.
Cheers and best of luck. ?PUN. On 2021-06-01, at 8:24 PM, AWORKOFMARC wrote: Dude... As always... You come through. You are the friggen BEST!?
Thank you sir. I will relay this to my mechanic
-------- Original message -------- Date: 6/1/21 8:20 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.
I had an even worse case of new clutch-itis with our wagon. ?I'm convinced the new clutch pressure plate doesn't have the same "throw" as the old one ? But I'll be damned if the whole thing's coming out again unless absolutely necessary. ?At first, I took all the slack (worn components) out of the old horrible Willys clutch mechanism, but this made no difference.
In the end, I shimmed the pressure plate 34 thousands on the flywheel (perhaps yet another of my unforgivable sins) but what really made the difference was removing the rubber buffer on the pedal, just below the floor boards. ?This allowed the pedal to come up higher and therefore have a longer throw. ?This was the only way to get the clutch to release. ?Even with this unorthodox trick, there is zero free play.
What you really have to be sure about, with the clutch pedal released, is whether or not the throw-out bearing touches the pressure plate - it shouldn't. ?This is easy to check on a Willys.
Pavel up North
On 2021-06-01, at 7:31 PM, gandre wrote: Sounds like the clutch in my FC-170. I have been fiddling with the linkage attempting to find the sweet spot…. I too want to know the answer! Got my Willys back today.
Im going nuts. Just replaced the dang clutch, and the throwout bearing, and transfer external case and some gear repair inside the transfer case...?
When I depress the clutch pedal, going into 1st or R every time I have to wait at least 3 to 5 seconds for the flywheel or whatever to it is to stop spinning so it accepts the shifting without grinding.? EVERY. TIME. However if I first shift into 2nd and then into 1st, it accepts the shift w/o grinding or having to pause the 3 seconds. They played with the rpms, they played with clutch adjustments. To where now the clutch is set so as Im releasing the pedal there's nothing, nothing, nothing and then at the top of the release I got about an inch or 2 and ... woosh it suddenly engages.?
No problems shifting into 2 or 3rd, or back.
Any ideas anyone? Im getting desperate does anyone know old school transmision wizard in the Los Angeles area?
HELLLLPPP!
|
Hmmm... can I assume (danger, danger Will Robinson!) that he is talking about when you step on the clutch? ?If so, yes, your mechanic knows the clutch disc rides on splines on the transmission input shaft. So when you release the pressure plate, the disc and trans should stop in a second or two.
Now there can be "extenuating circumstances" If your pilot bearing is sticking ?- it has a bit too small an inside diameter, then it will cause the input shaft to grab and spin a little or a lot. ?And then, you will have more grind than usual selecting unsynchronized first. ?Similarly, if the transmission input shaft is misaligned with the pilot bearing (unlikely) , there could be similar trouble.
PUN.
On 2021-06-01, at 9:42 PM, AWORKOFMARC wrote: My mechanic said to ask this:
If the clutch disk is supposed to stop, does that mean the? shaft and trans stop spinning?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 6/1/21 8:47 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.
Glad to offer a few words... ?Perhaps you could start by repositioning the "rubber buffer" under the floor boards - this can be done in 15 minutes ($30 mechanic's bill?) All you have to do is take out the clam floor board pieces that are around the pedals and wiggle the rubber bung upwards until it is right under the actual pedal pad. ?Then adjust the lunkge "tighter". This alone might let the clutch work acceptably.
Cheers and best of luck. ?PUN. On 2021-06-01, at 8:24 PM, AWORKOFMARC wrote: Dude... As always... You come through. You are the friggen BEST!?
Thank you sir. I will relay this to my mechanic
-------- Original message -------- Date: 6/1/21 8:20 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.
I had an even worse case of new clutch-itis with our wagon. ?I'm convinced the new clutch pressure plate doesn't have the same "throw" as the old one ? But I'll be damned if the whole thing's coming out again unless absolutely necessary. ?At first, I took all the slack (worn components) out of the old horrible Willys clutch mechanism, but this made no difference.
In the end, I shimmed the pressure plate 34 thousands on the flywheel (perhaps yet another of my unforgivable sins) but what really made the difference was removing the rubber buffer on the pedal, just below the floor boards. ?This allowed the pedal to come up higher and therefore have a longer throw. ?This was the only way to get the clutch to release. ?Even with this unorthodox trick, there is zero free play.
What you really have to be sure about, with the clutch pedal released, is whether or not the throw-out bearing touches the pressure plate - it shouldn't. ?This is easy to check on a Willys.
Pavel up North
On 2021-06-01, at 7:31 PM, gandre wrote: Sounds like the clutch in my FC-170. I have been fiddling with the linkage attempting to find the sweet spot…. I too want to know the answer! Got my Willys back today.
Im going nuts. Just replaced the dang clutch, and the throwout bearing, and transfer external case and some gear repair inside the transfer case...?
When I depress the clutch pedal, going into 1st or R every time I have to wait at least 3 to 5 seconds for the flywheel or whatever to it is to stop spinning so it accepts the shifting without grinding.? EVERY. TIME. However if I first shift into 2nd and then into 1st, it accepts the shift w/o grinding or having to pause the 3 seconds. They played with the rpms, they played with clutch adjustments. To where now the clutch is set so as Im releasing the pedal there's nothing, nothing, nothing and then at the top of the release I got about an inch or 2 and ... woosh it suddenly engages.?
No problems shifting into 2 or 3rd, or back.
Any ideas anyone? Im getting desperate does anyone know old school transmision wizard in the Los Angeles area?
HELLLLPPP!
|
When I got my 62 wagon it had been parked for years because after the owner paid a mechanic to put a new clutch in it worked like crap and wouldn't engage correctly. I put a whole new clutch package in just like the other one and had the same issue. Then I pulled hit out and read the words on the disk that said "this side towards the flywheel. " I FLIPPED THE DISK AND WOW worked like a charm. Just saying!
On June 1, 2021, at 10:09 PM, willyswagon230 <pavelb@...> wrote: Hmmm... can I assume (danger, danger Will Robinson!) that he is talking about when you step on the clutch? ?If so, yes, your mechanic knows the clutch disc rides on splines on the transmission input shaft. So when you release the pressure plate, the disc and trans should stop in a second or two.
Now there can be "extenuating circumstances" If your pilot bearing is sticking ?- it has a bit too small an inside diameter, then it will cause the input shaft to grab and spin a little or a lot. ?And then, you will have more grind than usual selecting unsynchronized first. ?Similarly, if the transmission input shaft is misaligned with the pilot bearing (unlikely) , there could be similar trouble.
PUN.
On 2021-06-01, at 9:42 PM, AWORKOFMARC wrote: My mechanic said to ask this:
If the clutch disk is supposed to stop, does that mean the? shaft and trans stop spinning?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 6/1/21 8:47 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.
Glad to offer a few words... ?Perhaps you could start by repositioning the "rubber buffer" under the floor boards - this can be done in 15 minutes ($30 mechanic's bill?) All you have to do is take out the clam floor board pieces that are around the pedals and wiggle the rubber bung upwards until it is right under the actual pedal pad. ?Then adjust the lunkge "tighter". This alone might let the clutch work acceptably.
Cheers and best of luck. ?PUN. On 2021-06-01, at 8:24 PM, AWORKOFMARC wrote: Dude... As always... You come through. You are the friggen BEST!?
Thank you sir. I will relay this to my mechanic
-------- Original message -------- Date: 6/1/21 8:20 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.
I had an even worse case of new clutch-itis with our wagon. ?I'm convinced the new clutch pressure plate doesn't have the same "throw" as the old one ? But I'll be damned if the whole thing's coming out again unless absolutely necessary. ?At first, I took all the slack (worn components) out of the old horrible Willys clutch mechanism, but this made no difference.
In the end, I shimmed the pressure plate 34 thousands on the flywheel (perhaps yet another of my unforgivable sins) but what really made the difference was removing the rubber buffer on the pedal, just below the floor boards. ?This allowed the pedal to come up higher and therefore have a longer throw. ?This was the only way to get the clutch to release. ?Even with this unorthodox trick, there is zero free play.
What you really have to be sure about, with the clutch pedal released, is whether or not the throw-out bearing touches the pressure plate - it shouldn't. ?This is easy to check on a Willys.
Pavel up North
On 2021-06-01, at 7:31 PM, gandre wrote: Sounds like the clutch in my FC-170. I have been fiddling with the linkage attempting to find the sweet spot…. I too want to know the answer! Got my Willys back today.
Im going nuts. Just replaced the dang clutch, and the throwout bearing, and transfer external case and some gear repair inside the transfer case...?
When I depress the clutch pedal, going into 1st or R every time I have to wait at least 3 to 5 seconds for the flywheel or whatever to it is to stop spinning so it accepts the shifting without grinding.? EVERY. TIME. However if I first shift into 2nd and then into 1st, it accepts the shift w/o grinding or having to pause the 3 seconds. They played with the rpms, they played with clutch adjustments. To where now the clutch is set so as Im releasing the pedal there's nothing, nothing, nothing and then at the top of the release I got about an inch or 2 and ... woosh it suddenly engages.?
No problems shifting into 2 or 3rd, or back.
Any ideas anyone? Im getting desperate does anyone know old school transmision wizard in the Los Angeles area?
HELLLLPPP!
|
Another problem that can rear it's uglyness is that the flywheel may have needed to be re-surfaced. If it was not and has runout, then when the clutch is depressed that runout can grab the clutch disc and cause it to spin a bit. The bigger problem at least in my area is there are no machine shops that will surface grind a flywheel anymore,
On my '52 pickup I can slid into 1st at a bit of a crawl without or very little grind. I need a new pressure plate but can't seem to fine one that does not hit the bellhousing. (283 chev conversion) It needs to be a low profile.
Good luck and hopefully you don't have to 'live with it!'
Harry Ruble
On Wednesday, June 2, 2021, 01:59:51 AM CDT, jay <bitrootvz@...> wrote:
When I got my 62 wagon it had been parked for years because after the owner paid a mechanic to put a new clutch in it worked like crap and wouldn't engage correctly. I put a whole new clutch package in just like the other one and had the same issue. Then I pulled hit out and read the words on the disk that said "this side towards the flywheel. " I FLIPPED THE DISK AND WOW worked like a charm. Just saying!
On June 1, 2021, at 10:09 PM, willyswagon230 <pavelb@...> wrote: Hmmm... can I assume (danger, danger Will Robinson!) that he is talking about when you step on the clutch? ?If so, yes, your mechanic knows the clutch disc rides on splines on the transmission input shaft. So when you release the pressure plate, the disc and trans should stop in a second or two.
Now there can be "extenuating circumstances" If your pilot bearing is sticking ?- it has a bit too small an inside diameter, then it will cause the input shaft to grab and spin a little or a lot. ?And then, you will have more grind than usual selecting unsynchronized first. ?Similarly, if the transmission input shaft is misaligned with the pilot bearing (unlikely) , there could be similar trouble.
PUN.
On 2021-06-01, at 9:42 PM, AWORKOFMARC wrote: My mechanic said to ask this:
If the clutch disk is supposed to stop, does that mean the? shaft and trans stop spinning?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 6/1/21 8:47 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.
Glad to offer a few words... ?Perhaps you could start by repositioning the "rubber buffer" under the floor boards - this can be done in 15 minutes ($30 mechanic's bill?) All you have to do is take out the clam floor board pieces that are around the pedals and wiggle the rubber bung upwards until it is right under the actual pedal pad. ?Then adjust the lunkge "tighter". This alone might let the clutch work acceptably.
Cheers and best of luck. ?PUN. On 2021-06-01, at 8:24 PM, AWORKOFMARC wrote: Dude... As always... You come through. You are the friggen BEST!?
Thank you sir. I will relay this to my mechanic
-------- Original message -------- Date: 6/1/21 8:20 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.
I had an even worse case of new clutch-itis with our wagon. ?I'm convinced the new clutch pressure plate doesn't have the same "throw" as the old one ? But I'll be damned if the whole thing's coming out again unless absolutely necessary. ?At first, I took all the slack (worn components) out of the old horrible Willys clutch mechanism, but this made no difference.
In the end, I shimmed the pressure plate 34 thousands on the flywheel (perhaps yet another of my unforgivable sins) but what really made the difference was removing the rubber buffer on the pedal, just below the floor boards. ?This allowed the pedal to come up higher and therefore have a longer throw. ?This was the only way to get the clutch to release. ?Even with this unorthodox trick, there is zero free play.
What you really have to be sure about, with the clutch pedal released, is whether or not the throw-out bearing touches the pressure plate - it shouldn't. ?This is easy to check on a Willys.
Pavel up North
On 2021-06-01, at 7:31 PM, gandre wrote: Sounds like the clutch in my FC-170. I have been fiddling with the linkage attempting to find the sweet spot…. I too want to know the answer! Got my Willys back today.
Im going nuts. Just replaced the dang clutch, and the throwout bearing, and transfer external case and some gear repair inside the transfer case...?
When I depress the clutch pedal, going into 1st or R every time I have to wait at least 3 to 5 seconds for the flywheel or whatever to it is to stop spinning so it accepts the shifting without grinding.? EVERY. TIME. However if I first shift into 2nd and then into 1st, it accepts the shift w/o grinding or having to pause the 3 seconds. They played with the rpms, they played with clutch adjustments. To where now the clutch is set so as Im releasing the pedal there's nothing, nothing, nothing and then at the top of the release I got about an inch or 2 and ... woosh it suddenly engages.?
No problems shifting into 2 or 3rd, or back.
Any ideas anyone? Im getting desperate does anyone know old school transmision wizard in the Los Angeles area?
HELLLLPPP!
|
my wagon does this also.? i've always just assumed that it comes with not being synchronized to 1st and reverse. my wagon also seems to do better going through 2nd before going to 1st for some reason.
On Tuesday, June 1, 2021, 10:29:27 PM EDT, AWORKOFMARC <marcwhittemore@...> wrote:
Got my Willys back today.
Im going nuts. Just replaced the dang clutch, and the throwout bearing, and transfer external case and some gear repair inside the transfer case...?
When I depress the clutch pedal, going into 1st or R every time I have to wait at least 3 to 5 seconds for the flywheel or whatever to it is to stop spinning so it accepts the shifting without grinding.? EVERY. TIME. However if I first shift into 2nd and then into 1st, it accepts the shift w/o grinding or having to pause the 3 seconds. They played with the rpms, they played with clutch adjustments. To where now the clutch is set so as Im releasing the pedal there's nothing, nothing, nothing and then at the top of the release I got about an inch or 2 and ... woosh it suddenly engages.?
No problems shifting into 2 or 3rd, or back.
Any ideas anyone? Im getting desperate does anyone know old school transmision wizard in the Los Angeles area?
HELLLLPPP!
|
?????????? As others
have pointed out, the blocking rings in the synchonizers are
your friend, in order to have No Grind engagements in First or
Reverse. The teeth on the counter shaft and their mating gears
will thank you.:)
RJ
On 6/2/2021 9:25 AM, steve boyer via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
my wagon does this also.?
i've always just assumed that it comes with not being
synchronized to 1st and reverse. my wagon also seems to do
better going through 2nd before going to 1st for some reason.
Got my Willys back today.
Im going nuts. Just replaced the dang clutch, and
the throwout bearing, and transfer external case and
some gear repair inside the transfer case...?
When I depress the clutch pedal, going into 1st or
R every time I have to wait at least 3 to 5 seconds
for the flywheel or whatever to it is to stop spinning
so it accepts the shifting without grinding.? EVERY.
TIME. However if I first shift into 2nd and then into
1st, it accepts the shift w/o grinding or having to
pause the 3 seconds. They played with the rpms, they
played with clutch adjustments. To where now the
clutch is set so as Im releasing the pedal there's
nothing, nothing, nothing and then at the top of the
release I got about an inch or 2 and ... woosh it
suddenly engages.?
No problems shifting into 2 or 3rd, or back.
Any ideas anyone? Im getting desperate does anyone
know old school transmision wizard in the Los Angeles
area?
HELLLLPPP!
|
Thanks for all the great feedback!! ? ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of lug nard via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2021 6:21 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit. ? Another problem that can rear it's uglyness is that the flywheel may have needed to be re-surfaced. If it was not and has runout, then when the clutch is depressed that runout can grab the clutch disc and cause it to spin a bit. The bigger problem at least in my area is there are no machine shops that will surface grind a flywheel anymore,
On my '52 pickup I can slid into 1st at a bit of a crawl without or very little grind. I need a new pressure plate but can't seem to fine one that does not hit the bellhousing. (283 chev conversion) It needs to be a low profile.
Good luck and hopefully you don't have to 'live with it!'
Harry Ruble On Wednesday, June 2, 2021, 01:59:51 AM CDT, jay <bitrootvz@...> wrote: When I got my 62 wagon it had been parked for years because after the owner paid a mechanic to put a new clutch in it worked like crap and wouldn't engage correctly. I put a whole new clutch package in just like the other one and had the same issue. Then I pulled hit out and read the words on the disk that said "this side towards the flywheel. " I FLIPPED THE DISK AND WOW worked like a charm. Just saying!
On June 1, 2021, at 10:09 PM, willyswagon230 <pavelb@...> wrote:
Hmmm... can I assume (danger, danger Will Robinson!) that he is talking about when you step on the clutch? ?If so, yes, your mechanic knows the clutch disc rides on splines on the transmission input shaft. So when you release the pressure plate, the disc and trans should stop in a second or two. Now there can be "extenuating circumstances" If your pilot bearing is sticking ?- it has a bit too small an inside diameter, then it will cause the input shaft to grab and spin a little or a lot. ?And then, you will have more grind than usual selecting unsynchronized first. ?Similarly, if the transmission input shaft is misaligned with the pilot bearing (unlikely) , there could be similar trouble. ? On 2021-06-01, at 9:42 PM, AWORKOFMARC wrote:
My mechanic said to ask this:
If the clutch disk is supposed to stop, does that mean the? shaft and trans stop spinning?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 6/1/21 8:47 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit. Glad to offer a few words... ?Perhaps you could start by repositioning the "rubber buffer" under the floor boards - this can be done in 15 minutes ($30 mechanic's bill?) All you have to do is take out the clam floor board pieces that are around the pedals and wiggle the rubber bung upwards until it is right under the actual pedal pad. ?Then adjust the lunkge "tighter". This alone might let the clutch work acceptably. Cheers and best of luck. ?PUN. ? On 2021-06-01, at 8:24 PM, AWORKOFMARC wrote:
Dude... As always... You come through. You are the friggen BEST!? Thank you sir. I will relay this to my mechanic -------- Original message -------- Date: 6/1/21 8:20 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit. I had an even worse case of new clutch-itis with our wagon. ?I'm convinced the new clutch pressure plate doesn't have the same "throw" as the old one ? But I'll be damned if the whole thing's coming out again unless absolutely necessary. ?At first, I took all the slack (worn components) out of the old horrible Willys clutch mechanism, but this made no difference In the end, I shimmed the pressure plate 34 thousands on the flywheel (perhaps yet another of my unforgivable sins) but what really made the difference was removing the rubber buffer on the pedal, just below the floor boards. ?This allowed the pedal to come up higher and therefore have a longer throw. ?This was the only way to get the clutch to release. ?Even with this unorthodox trick, there is zero free play. What you really have to be sure about, with the clutch pedal released, is whether or not the throw-out bearing touches the pressure plate - it shouldn't. ?This is easy to check on a Willys. ? On 2021-06-01, at 7:31 PM, gandre wrote:
Sounds like the clutch in my FC-170. I have been fiddling with the linkage attempting to find the sweet spot…. I too want to know the answer! ? Got my Willys back today. Im going nuts. Just replaced the dang clutch, and the throwout bearing, and transfer external case and some gear repair inside the transfer case...? When I depress the clutch pedal, going into 1st or R every time I have to wait at least 3 to 5 seconds for the flywheel or whatever to it is to stop spinning so it accepts the shifting without grinding.? EVERY. TIME. However if I first shift into 2nd and then into 1st, it accepts the shift w/o grinding or having to pause the 3 seconds. They played with the rpms, they played with clutch adjustments. To where now the clutch is set so as Im releasing the pedal there's nothing, nothing, nothing and then at the top of the release I got about an inch or 2 and ... woosh it suddenly engages.? No problems shifting into 2 or 3rd, or back. Any ideas anyone? Im getting desperate does anyone know old school transmision wizard in the Los Angeles area?
?
?
?
|
Harry, Many Chevelles, Corvettes??etc from the 60s had 10.5 inch clutches that are common, disk was 10.4 officially I think. ?One of those clutches or bell housings (Aluminum) should work. ?Truck bell housings, al and iron exist that clear a 12” clutch. ?You need the correct length throw out bearing.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks for all the great feedback!! ? ? ? ? Another problem that can rear it's uglyness is that the flywheel may have needed to be re-surfaced. If it was not and has runout, then when the clutch is depressed that runout can grab the clutch disc and cause it to spin a bit. The bigger problem at least in my area is there are no machine shops that will surface grind a flywheel anymore,?
On my '52 pickup I can slid into 1st at a bit of a crawl without or very little grind. I need a new pressure plate but can't seem to fine one that does not hit the bellhousing. (283 chev conversion) It needs to be a low profile.
Good luck and hopefully you don't have to 'live with it!'
Harry Ruble On Wednesday, June 2, 2021, 01:59:51 AM CDT, jay <bitrootvz@...> wrote:? When I got my 62 wagon it had been parked for years because after the owner paid a mechanic to put a new clutch in it worked like crap and wouldn't engage correctly. I put a whole new clutch package in just like the other one and had the same issue. Then I pulled hit out and read the words on the disk that said "this side towards the flywheel. " I FLIPPED THE DISK AND WOW worked like a charm. Just saying!
On June 1, 2021, at 10:09 PM, willyswagon230 <pavelb@...> wrote:
Hmmm... can I assume (danger, danger Will Robinson!) that he is talking about when you step on the clutch? ?If so, yes, your mechanic knows the clutch disc rides on splines on the transmission input shaft. So when you release the pressure plate, the disc and trans should stop in a second or two. Now there can be "extenuating circumstances" If your pilot bearing is sticking ?- it has a bit too small an inside diameter, then it will cause the input shaft to grab and spin a little or a lot. ?And then, you will have more grind than usual selecting unsynchronized first. ?Similarly, if the transmission input shaft is misaligned with the pilot bearing (unlikely) , there could be similar trouble. ? On 2021-06-01, at 9:42 PM, AWORKOFMARC wrote:
My mechanic said to ask this:
If the clutch disk is supposed to stop, does that mean the? shaft and trans stop spinning?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 6/1/21 8:47 PM (GMT-08:00)? Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.? Glad to offer a few words... ?Perhaps you could start by repositioning the "rubber buffer" under the floor boards - this can be done in 15 minutes ($30 mechanic's bill?) All you have to do is take out the clam floor board pieces that are around the pedals and wiggle the rubber bung upwards until it is right under the actual pedal pad. ?Then adjust the lunkge "tighter". This alone might let the clutch work acceptably. Cheers and best of luck. ?PUN. ? On 2021-06-01, at 8:24 PM, AWORKOFMARC wrote:
Dude... As always... You come through. You are the friggen BEST!? Thank you sir. I will relay this to my mechanic -------- Original message -------- Date: 6/1/21 8:20 PM (GMT-08:00)? Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Shifting Nightmare that wont quit.? I had an even worse case of new clutch-itis with our wagon. ?I'm convinced the new clutch pressure plate doesn't have the same "throw" as the old one ? But I'll be damned if the whole thing's coming out again unless absolutely necessary. ?At first, I took all the slack (worn components) out of the old horrible Willys clutch mechanism, but this made no difference In the end, I shimmed the pressure plate 34 thousands on the flywheel (perhaps yet another of my unforgivable sins) but what really made the difference was removing the rubber buffer on the pedal, just below the floor boards. ?This allowed the pedal to come up higher and therefore have a longer throw. ?This was the only way to get the clutch to release. ?Even with this unorthodox trick, there is zero free play. What you really have to be sure about, with the clutch pedal released, is whether or not the throw-out bearing touches the pressure plate - it shouldn't. ?This is easy to check on a Willys. ? On 2021-06-01, at 7:31 PM, gandre wrote:
Sounds like the clutch in my FC-170. I have been fiddling with the linkage attempting to find the sweet spot…. I too want to know the answer! ? Got my Willys back today. Im going nuts. Just replaced the dang clutch, and the throwout bearing, and transfer external case and some gear repair inside the transfer case...? When I depress the clutch pedal, going into 1st or R every time I have to wait at least 3 to 5 seconds for the flywheel or whatever to it is to stop spinning so it accepts the shifting without grinding.? EVERY. TIME. However if I first shift into 2nd and then into 1st, it accepts the shift w/o grinding or having to pause the 3 seconds. They played with the rpms, they played with clutch adjustments. To where now the clutch is set so as Im releasing the pedal there's nothing, nothing, nothing and then at the top of the release I got about an inch or 2 and ... woosh it suddenly engages.? No problems shifting into 2 or 3rd, or back. Any ideas anyone? Im getting desperate does anyone know old school transmision wizard in the Los Angeles area?
?
?
?
|
AWORKOFMARC
RJ Kanary