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ford rearend
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Hi Jerry,
The previous owner (or one of 'em) had already done the conversion to my 54 SDDL. I did get the numbers off of the id tag... it is WEB-B 3.00 GAD 880. as near as i can tell (from a 1968 FORD shop manual for Cougar/Mustang) it is probably a 3.00:1 gear ratio, conventional differential (not limited slip) , number of teeth - ring:39 pinion:13. I believe that the entire drive train came from ~66 Mustang . Hope this helps. Good Luck, eric '54 SDDL '87 XJ |
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Jerry Stoper
Eric
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Thanks for the info. My 47 Wagon came with the 289 and C-4 from a 1967 Mustang. If the rear end is working for you, it will make it easier for me to keep the entire drive train Mustang. If you had a chance would you run a different ratio or is the 3:00 ratio good? Seem like it should be pretty good for MPG and 99% of my driving is highway. Thanks again, Jerry Stoper EOlson8559@... wrote: From: EOlson8559@... |
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Dave and Robin Samuelson
Well, just a suggestion from the peanut gallery, but - if you could find a true Ford 9" rear end taht will fit ( or have the clams to get one cut for your application) then go that route. The various ring and pinion combos available would be a vast improvement over the 8.8" setup. Plus, they're more durable, and you should never have a problem with it again. I have one in mt 89 Mustang LX 5.0 and even as hard as I run it, I have never had a problem in 116,000 miles. Change the diff fluid every other year, and it spins like a clock. Sammy (There are too many Daves in the list, so I'll use my nickname) |
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Jerry Stoper
Thanks for the additional info. I'm off to the bone yard to find a rear end! The
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next step will be to salvage a Mustang II front end to take advantage of the inproved steering and disk brakes. Thanks again, Jerry EOlson8559@... wrote: From: EOlson8559@... |
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Jerry Stoper
Sammy
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Thanks for the additional information. Thats what I'm looking for, info from you guys who have been there and done that. Jerry Dave and Robin Samuelson wrote: From: Dave and Robin Samuelson <lucky@...>Well, just a suggestion from the peanut gallery, but - if you could find a true |
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Jerry,
How are you going to do the front end conversion. Are going to used only the parts from the salvaged Mustang II or are buying some of the parts else where ? I am interested on doing the same to mine, but the write up I have guestamates the cost at ~ $2000.00 ( a little steep for me right now). If you have a better plan , plaes share. Thanks, eric '54 SDDL ''87 XJ |
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Jerry Stoper
My plan is to find a Mustang II and cut off the frame about a foot behind the
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front suspension. This should give me all the parts I need. I believe this will give me what the ads show for $2,000. I'll need to check the condition of all parts and replace anything that's work. Then I'll need to cut off (sorry restorers) the front part of my Willys frame and weld on the Mustang frame. I'll have to adjust the width of the Mustang frame to fit. This sounds fairly simple and maybe I'm too optimistic but this is my game plan. The other member of this Willys list will let me know quickly if I'm wrong. Jerry EOlson8559@... wrote: From: EOlson8559@... |
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In a message dated 10/22/98 7:53:38 AM Central Daylight Time,
stoper@... writes: << Then I'll need to cut off (sorry restorers) the front part of my Willys frame and weld on the Mustang frame. I'll have to adjust the width of the Mustang frame to fit. >> That's it Jerry, We're going to have to take you out and shoot you. :-) I've seen this done on old Chevy and Ford Pickups using 70s model Chevels. They all looked good from above but I never saw one that looked worth a dime from below. They also had some serious difficulty getting them aligned. Good Luck. Rick S |
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Jerry Stoper
Rick
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I hadn't thought about alignment and how the matchup would look. I guess I'll have to give this more thought. Jerry Rick48CJ2A@... wrote: From: Rick48CJ2A@... |
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Jeff Gent
In a message dated 10/22/98 7:53:38 AM Central Daylight Time,I asked my father in-law about putting the Mustang II setup in his old Pontiac. It sounds to me like they kept the Pontiac frame and added just the control arms, etc which were pulled off a junker. The frame was boxed in and the crossmember was moved (due to the motor I think). This sounds to me like it would be easier to do than getting all the body mounts etc. to work with the Mustang frame. -- ======================================================================= Jeff Gent, jeffgent@... FoJ#0019 KC7PVZ ----------------------------------------------------------------------- I'm not an engineer, but I play one at work ----------------------------------------------------------------------- '84 V65 Sabre -- Hondaline fairing and Krauser Hardbags '62 Willys Wagon -- painfully slow frame up in progress '82 Honda Civic -- 190K miles and going strong ======================================================================= |
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mitch utsey
Jeff Gent wrote:
Well, I have seen both subframe swaps and just the suspension swap you describe. The subframe swap can save a lot of weight and still add strength to a street rod, and has the added benefit of allowing the front end height to be changed according to how the subframes are mated. If you have a frame that you are happy with, and the skill with fabrication and welding (which you BETTER have for either of these) then just go for the partial. -- -Mitch Utsey I'm just worried about being nekkid and neck deep in the Nile while some Egyptian sails by Saying, " Hey, where's all your stuff?" -David Mandeville Did Roman Medics refer to IV's as 4's? What do little birdies see when they are knocked unconscious? Think Globally, act tactically |
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