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In my case, I put off returning the steering gear and shaft, etc, to the wagon until it warms up.? Which it is doing.? I just can't get myself out to an unheated garage when it's under 50 degrees.? What a wimp.?? My friend the retired mechanic is advising that
I replace the distributor, the concern being that the plate where the points attach is excessively worn; needs bearings; the shaft is 180 degrees out, etc.? A new one will not be original, as far as I can tell, the one from the Jeepsterman does not use the
vacuum advance.? If I find a rebuilder, perhaps that's the way to go. Opinions welcome!
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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think the kaiser-willys website sells a replacement distributer with electronic ignition.? not sure if they have your year available though.? i replaced my points with a petronix set-up and it's worked out well? for me.? mine is a little newer than yours. good luck.
On Friday, February 28, 2025 at 08:22:54 PM EST, Dan Mulholland via groups.io <mulhollanddr@...> wrote:
In my case, I put off returning the steering gear and shaft, etc, to the wagon until it warms up.? Which it is doing.? I just can't get myself out to an unheated garage when it's under 50 degrees.? What a wimp.?? My friend the retired mechanic is advising that
I replace the distributor, the concern being that the plate where the points attach is excessively worn; needs bearings; the shaft is 180 degrees out, etc.? A new one will not be original, as far as I can tell, the one from the Jeepsterman does not use the
vacuum advance.? If I find a rebuilder, perhaps that's the way to go. Opinions welcome!
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
|
I heard the distributer works great, I call Kaiser once in a while to see if they got a 6 volt replacement. First Street has a nice setup for Ford model T's only thats's for 6 volt, so it might be coming..
think the kaiser-willys website sells a replacement distributer with electronic ignition.? not sure if they have your year available though.? i replaced my points with a petronix set-up and it's worked out well? for me.? mine is a little newer than yours. good luck.
On Friday, February 28, 2025 at 08:22:54 PM EST, Dan Mulholland via groups.io <mulhollanddr@...> wrote:
In my case, I put off returning the steering gear and shaft, etc, to the wagon until it warms up.? Which it is doing.? I just can't get myself out to an unheated garage when it's under 50 degrees.? What a wimp.?? My friend the retired mechanic is advising that
I replace the distributor, the concern being that the plate where the points attach is excessively worn; needs bearings; the shaft is 180 degrees out, etc.? A new one will not be original, as far as I can tell, the one from the Jeepsterman does not use the
vacuum advance.? If I find a rebuilder, perhaps that's the way to go. Opinions welcome!
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
|
Here is the new distributor-I have the stock 6 volt setup, so points are still the thing.
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Brand new reproduction distributor assembly for the 4-134 engine, 6 Volt or 12 Volt. Just like the originals with points. Comes complete with new cap and all necessary items. Fits:? Willys MB (1941-1945) w/ 4-134 L-Head engine. Willys M38 (1950-1952) w/ 4-134
L-Head engine. Willys M38-A1 (1952-1963) w/ 4-134 F-Head eng
thejeepsterman.com
|
And here is a rebuilding service-
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|
Advanced Distributors offers a comprehensive distributor rebuilding service for ALL Lucas distributors, as well as most collectors and antique vehicles (no Ford or John Deere!!!) Our rebuilding service is the most comprehensive available, despite our bargain
pricing. Besides Lucas, we also rebuild Bosch, Delco, Prestol
www.advanceddistributors.com
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I haven't talked to the rebuilder yet.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I heard the distributer works great, I call Kaiser once in a while to see if they got a 6 volt replacement. First Street has a nice setup for Ford model T's only thats's for 6 volt, so it might be coming..
think the kaiser-willys website sells a replacement distributer with electronic ignition.? not sure if they have your year available though.? i replaced my points with a petronix set-up and it's worked out well? for me.? mine is a little newer
than yours. good luck.
On Friday, February 28, 2025 at 08:22:54 PM EST, Dan Mulholland via groups.io <mulhollanddr@...> wrote:
In my case, I put off returning the steering gear and shaft, etc, to the wagon until it warms up.? Which it is doing.? I just can't get myself out to an unheated garage when it's under 50 degrees.? What a wimp.?? My friend the retired mechanic is advising that
I replace the distributor, the concern being that the plate where the points attach is excessively worn; needs bearings; the shaft is 180 degrees out, etc.? A new one will not be original, as far as I can tell, the one from the Jeepsterman does not use the
vacuum advance.? If I find a rebuilder, perhaps that's the way to go. Opinions welcome!
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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I bought mine from kaiser Willie's for my 54 134f and it worked great. It cost less then buying a new vacuum advance if I remember correctly.?
On Sat, Mar 1, 2025, 1:11?AM Dan Mulholland via <mulhollanddr= [email protected]> wrote:
Here is the new distributor-I have the stock 6 volt setup, so points are still the thing.
|
|
Brand new reproduction distributor assembly for the 4-134 engine, 6 Volt or 12 Volt. Just like the originals with points. Comes complete with new cap and all necessary items. Fits:? Willys MB (1941-1945) w/ 4-134 L-Head engine. Willys M38 (1950-1952) w/ 4-134
L-Head engine. Willys M38-A1 (1952-1963) w/ 4-134 F-Head eng
|
And here is a rebuilding service-
|
|
Advanced Distributors offers a comprehensive distributor rebuilding service for ALL Lucas distributors, as well as most collectors and antique vehicles (no Ford or John Deere!!!) Our rebuilding service is the most comprehensive available, despite our bargain
pricing. Besides Lucas, we also rebuild Bosch, Delco, Prestol
|
I haven't talked to the rebuilder yet.
I heard the distributer works great, I call Kaiser once in a while to see if they got a 6 volt replacement. First Street has a nice setup for Ford model T's only thats's for 6 volt, so it might be coming..
On Friday, February 28, 2025 at 06:38:12 PM MST, steve boyer via <flash7313= [email protected]> wrote:
think the kaiser-willys website sells a replacement distributer with electronic ignition.? not sure if they have your year available though.? i replaced my points with a petronix set-up and it's worked out well? for me.? mine is a little newer
than yours. good luck.
On Friday, February 28, 2025 at 08:22:54 PM EST, Dan Mulholland via <mulhollanddr= [email protected]> wrote:
In my case, I put off returning the steering gear and shaft, etc, to the wagon until it warms up.? Which it is doing.? I just can't get myself out to an unheated garage when it's under 50 degrees.? What a wimp.?? My friend the retired mechanic is advising that
I replace the distributor, the concern being that the plate where the points attach is excessively worn; needs bearings; the shaft is 180 degrees out, etc.? A new one will not be original, as far as I can tell, the one from the Jeepsterman does not use the
vacuum advance.? If I find a rebuilder, perhaps that's the way to go. Opinions welcome!
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
Sorry I didn't mention I was looking for a solid state replacement, my dist still works. First street offers a solid state 6 volt replace meant for Ford model T's...
Here is the new distributor-I have the stock 6 volt setup, so points are still the thing.
|
|
Brand new reproduction distributor assembly for the 4-134 engine, 6 Volt or 12 Volt. Just like the originals with points. Comes complete with new cap and all necessary items. Fits:? Willys MB (1941-1945) w/ 4-134 L-Head engine. Willys M38 (1950-1952) w/ 4-134
L-Head engine. Willys M38-A1 (1952-1963) w/ 4-134 F-Head eng
thejeepsterman.com
|
And here is a rebuilding service-
|
|
Advanced Distributors offers a comprehensive distributor rebuilding service for ALL Lucas distributors, as well as most collectors and antique vehicles (no Ford or John Deere!!!) Our rebuilding service is the most comprehensive available, despite our bargain
pricing. Besides Lucas, we also rebuild Bosch, Delco, Prestol
www.advanceddistributors.com
|
I haven't talked to the rebuilder yet.
I heard the distributer works great, I call Kaiser once in a while to see if they got a 6 volt replacement. First Street has a nice setup for Ford model T's only thats's for 6 volt, so it might be coming..
think the kaiser-willys website sells a replacement distributer with electronic ignition.? not sure if they have your year available though.? i replaced my points with a petronix set-up and it's worked out well? for me.? mine is a little newer
than yours. good luck.
On Friday, February 28, 2025 at 08:22:54 PM EST, Dan Mulholland via groups.io <mulhollanddr@...> wrote:
In my case, I put off returning the steering gear and shaft, etc, to the wagon until it warms up.? Which it is doing.? I just can't get myself out to an unheated garage when it's under 50 degrees.? What a wimp.?? My friend the retired mechanic is advising that
I replace the distributor, the concern being that the plate where the points attach is excessively worn; needs bearings; the shaft is 180 degrees out, etc.? A new one will not be original, as far as I can tell, the one from the Jeepsterman does not use the
vacuum advance.? If I find a rebuilder, perhaps that's the way to go. Opinions welcome!
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
Dan,?
On another Willys forum I promised never to mention this ignition option again... so feel free to ignore the following on WillysTech!? If you are interested in getting away from the original design and going completely electronic, there is the distributorless design from Ford.? The advantages are extensive but I do not know if you can use a 6 volt system to power it.? Should you be interested, just Google EDIS from Autosport Labs.? I converted our Tornado engined wagon years back and have been pleased with the results.
?
Cheers, Pavel up North
?
?
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Re: 6v electronic distributor
?
One minor caution for those considering ditching mechanical points in favor of electronic. I tried a conversion kit on my 6 volt CJ-2A (L134) some time ago, maybe 20 years back. It ran great but maybe 10% of the time it would not start. On those occasions it would sometime fire up when I released the starter. Push starts worked, but of course this was not always practical.
?
After some serious head-scratching and precision use of foul language, I finally figured out the cause. Under the massive electric draw of the starter, battery voltage drops down around 5V. This is perfectly normal and not a fault. Unfortunately, that was also the lower limit for the electronics to function. Most times all was good and the engine fired right up, as available voltage hovered just above the magic limit. But if voltage dipped just enough, no joy.
?
The starter operation seemed the same, so it wasn't like a fault dragging down the voltage. Normal operation left very little margin for the ignition to fire, that's all. Those times the engine fired after releasing the starter? That was a recovery of battery power as the crankshaft was still spinning down, but you could not count on it.
?
Sorry, I do not remember which brand that was. Newer products may not have this problem.
?
Hope all are doing well.
?
Regards,
?
Dr. Vern
|
I've asked? around and no one supports a 6 volt solid state F-134 distributor replacement, I tweaked up to a 8 volt battery. Got 9.4 at good rpm runs great with extra head light reach. Still would really like to go a solid state distributor.?
Re: 6v electronic distributor
?
One minor caution for those considering ditching mechanical points in favor of electronic. I tried a conversion kit on my 6 volt CJ-2A (L134) some time ago, maybe 20 years back. It ran great but maybe 10% of the time it would not start. On those occasions it would sometime fire up when I released the starter. Push starts worked, but of course this was not always practical.
?
After some serious head-scratching and precision use of foul language, I finally figured out the cause. Under the massive electric draw of the starter, battery voltage drops down around 5V. This is perfectly normal and not a fault. Unfortunately, that was also the lower limit for the electronics to function. Most times all was good and the engine fired right up, as available voltage hovered just above the magic limit. But if voltage dipped just enough, no joy.
?
The starter operation seemed the same, so it wasn't like a fault dragging down the voltage. Normal operation left very little margin for the ignition to fire, that's all. Those times the engine fired after releasing the starter? That was a recovery of battery power as the crankshaft was still spinning down, but you could not count on it.
?
Sorry, I do not remember which brand that was. Newer products may not have this problem.
?
Hope all are doing well.
?
Regards,
?
Dr. Vern
|
Sorry on my response as I had switched over to 12v. Didn't get that this was a 6v discussion.
I've asked? around and no one supports a 6 volt solid state F-134 distributor replacement, I tweaked up to a 8 volt battery. Got 9.4 at good rpm runs great with extra head light reach. Still would really like to go a solid state distributor.?
On Sunday, March 2, 2025 at 11:02:35 AM MST, K. R. via <kr98664= [email protected]> wrote:
Re: 6v electronic distributor
?
One minor caution for those considering ditching mechanical points in favor of electronic. I tried a conversion kit on my 6 volt CJ-2A (L134) some time ago, maybe 20 years back. It ran great but maybe 10% of the time it would not start. On those occasions it would sometime fire up when I released the starter. Push starts worked, but of course this was not always practical.
?
After some serious head-scratching and precision use of foul language, I finally figured out the cause. Under the massive electric draw of the starter, battery voltage drops down around 5V. This is perfectly normal and not a fault. Unfortunately, that was also the lower limit for the electronics to function. Most times all was good and the engine fired right up, as available voltage hovered just above the magic limit. But if voltage dipped just enough, no joy.
?
The starter operation seemed the same, so it wasn't like a fault dragging down the voltage. Normal operation left very little margin for the ignition to fire, that's all. Those times the engine fired after releasing the starter? That was a recovery of battery power as the crankshaft was still spinning down, but you could not count on it.
?
Sorry, I do not remember which brand that was. Newer products may not have this problem.
?
Hope all are doing well.
?
Regards,
?
Dr. Vern
|
What about pertronix ignition?
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S21 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
Get
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Sorry on my response as I had switched over to 12v. Didn't get that this was a 6v discussion.
I've asked? around and no one supports a 6 volt solid state F-134 distributor replacement, I tweaked up to a 8 volt battery. Got 9.4 at good rpm runs great with extra head light reach. Still would really like to go a solid state distributor.?
On Sunday, March 2, 2025 at 11:02:35 AM MST, K. R. via <kr98664= [email protected]> wrote:
Re: 6v electronic distributor
?
One minor caution for those considering ditching mechanical points in favor of electronic. I tried a conversion kit on my 6 volt CJ-2A (L134) some time ago, maybe 20 years back. It ran great but maybe 10% of the time it would not start. On those occasions
it would sometime fire up when I released the starter. Push starts worked, but of course this was not always practical.
?
After some serious head-scratching and precision use of foul language, I finally figured out the cause. Under the massive electric draw of the starter, battery voltage drops down around 5V. This is perfectly normal and not a fault. Unfortunately, that
was also the lower limit for the electronics to function. Most times all was good and the engine fired right up, as available voltage hovered just above the magic limit. But if voltage dipped just enough, no joy.
?
The starter operation seemed the same, so it wasn't like a fault dragging down the voltage. Normal operation left very little margin for the ignition to fire, that's all. Those times the engine fired after releasing the starter? That was a recovery of
battery power as the crankshaft was still spinning down, but you could not count on it.
?
Sorry, I do not remember which brand that was. Newer products may not have this problem.
?
Hope all are doing well.
?
Regards,
?
Dr. Vern
|
Hi Scott, ? Way back in 2008 I installed a Pertronix electronic ignition module #2541 and their Flame Thrower coil #40511 (12 volt).? They worked good for 5 years and then one day the coil just quit working for me.? I installed another one and it has lasted for eleven years with no problems so far.? I increased the spark plug gaps to .045” on advice from others here because of the hotter spark that the Pertronix puts out. ? Rick McDowell Osceola, Iowa ? ? ? What about pertronix ignition? Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S21 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of jay bernhardt via groups.io <bitrootvz@...>
Sent: Sunday, March 2, 2025 8:11:47 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [WillysTech] What's going on? Sorry on my response as I had switched over to 12v. Didn't get that this was a 6v discussion. ? I've asked? around and no one supports a 6 volt solid state F-134 distributor replacement, I tweaked up to a 8 volt battery. Got 9.4 at good rpm runs great with extra head light reach. Still would really like to go a solid state distributor.? On Sunday, March 2, 2025 at 11:02:35 AM MST, K. R. via <kr98664=[email protected]> wrote: Re: 6v electronic distributor One minor caution for those considering ditching mechanical points in favor of electronic. I tried a conversion kit on my 6 volt CJ-2A (L134) some time ago, maybe 20 years back. It ran great but maybe 10% of the time it would not start. On those occasions it would sometime fire up when I released the starter. Push starts worked, but of course this was not always practical. After some serious head-scratching and precision use of foul language, I finally figured out the cause. Under the massive electric draw of the starter, battery voltage drops down around 5V. This is perfectly normal and not a fault. Unfortunately, that was also the lower limit for the electronics to function. Most times all was good and the engine fired right up, as available voltage hovered just above the magic limit. But if voltage dipped just enough, no joy. The starter operation seemed the same, so it wasn't like a fault dragging down the voltage. Normal operation left very little margin for the ignition to fire, that's all. Those times the engine fired after releasing the starter? That was a recovery of battery power as the crankshaft was still spinning down, but you could not count on it. Sorry, I do not remember which brand that was. Newer products may not have this problem.
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jay bernhardt