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-----Original Message-----
From: Rick48CJ2A@... [mailto:Rick48CJ2A@...]
Sent: Monday, June 21, 1999 6:24 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] How do you remove the OD


From: Rick48CJ2A@...

Morris,
You da man. I'd love to hear how you came to know so much about this topic
someday. You're right of course about the gears not matching up between the

#18 and #20. Of course I had to take and match them up myself to be
certain.
:-)

You say that the inside diameter of the 1 1/4" and 1 1/8" are the same, just

a different set of bearings to match the shaft size? Would it be worth the
effort to have the case machined up to fit the 1 1/4" shaft. Then all I
would have to do is buy the thinner bearings and I would be in business.
How
reliable is the 1 1/8" for everyday driving. I'm not talking about rock
crawling or mud slinging, just everyday driving and occasional 4x4.

Can you tell me anything about the mythical cone bearing modification for
the
intermediate shaft. Who sells these kits and what do they include? Does
any
machine work have to be done? Will these kits fit a 1 1/8" t-case or are
they just made for the 1 1/4". Thanks to all of you for the wealth of
information.

Rick S (TX)

In a message dated 6/21/99 3:03:55 PM Central Daylight Time,
mgh@...
writes:

<<
I didn't see any responses to the mix-and-match question about transfer
cases, so here goes:
(1) The #20 case (and many late #18's) had a 4 inch diameter indexing hole
where it mates to the transmission. The hole in earlier #18's was a shade
over 3 inches. You can generally have an early small hole #18 enlarged to
4.001" to work with a later transmision, but not the other way around, so
some later #18's, or any #20 case, generally cannot be used with an earlier
transmission which was intended for the small indexing hole.
(2) The oil fill hole on most #20 cases is on the rear face, and when such
a case is converted to an #18, it will intefere with the driveshaft brake
if
so equipped, or with the speedometer cable if not. For such cases, a new
fill hole must be drilled and tapped in the same location as a #18 fill
hole, and the existing rear fill hole must be plugged with a 1/2"
countersunk pipe plug, available in the plumbing section of a well-equipped
hardware store (but not at Home Depot).
(3) Although early #18's and late #18's and #20's used
apparently-identical
26 tooth main drive gears, the tooth pitch is different, so they will not
work properly if parts are interchanged.
(4) The 26 tooth Warn overdrive gear was cut to match the early-type pitch
only.
(5) The inside diameter of the intermediate (middle) gear is the same for
both the 1-1/8" and 1-1/4" shaft cases, so intermediate gears can be freely
interchanged between cases with those shaft diameters, assuming all other
gears are properly matched. The bearing rollers have smaller diameters
(and
there are more of them) in the later 1-1/4" shaft version, so it is a more
durable arrangement, and you should go with that case if you can.
(6) Willys part numbers for the various gears are fairly useless since
they
are not marked on the parts themselves. Spicer numbers appear on original
parts. Aftermarket parts are not marked with numbers at all, adding to the
mystery and adventure.
(7) The Spicer number for the intermediate gear for the early-pitch 26
tooth set-up is 18-5-7. The tooth counts are 34/21. It must be used with
an
18-8-18 output gear and 18-8-17 sliding gear. This combination works
properly with a Warn 26-tooth overdrive.
(8) The Spicer number for the intermediate gear for the late-pitch 26
tooth
set-up is 18-5-16. The tooth counts are 34/20. It must be used with an
18-8-44 output gear and 18-8-28 sliding gear. Don't use these gears with a
Warn 26-tooth overdrive, even though it may seem to fit perfectly.
(9) If you need them, I can give you the numbers for the 29-tooth set up,
but these gears are so obviously different and incompatible with any
26-tooth combination that there's little chance of mismatching your gears
--
you probably wouldn't be able to force all of them into the case at the
same
time.. Ditto for the 27-tooth arrangement used on WWII models.

Others have answered about removing the overdrive -- I agree with those who
say don't remove the small cover, cotter pin, etc. The main housing is a
tight fit, and may have to be gently pried off with leverage from two
screwdrivers working opposite sides of the housing. The main overdrive
gear
stays behind in the transfer case, and the snap ring is first carefully
removed with long needle-nose pliers The lock plate is then removed and a
1/2" socket extension fits into the female nut. This nut will need a lot
of
force to loosen it (if it was properly installed) because it needed to be
installed as tightly as possible. When reinstalling this gear, use a
breaker bar to put as much torque as you can on the socket wrench
extension,
while either having someone under the hood holding the fan to keep the
engine from turning, or (if the gearshift cover is off) locking up the
transmission by putting it in two gears at once. If the female nut is not
super-tight, the lockplate and snap ring will not keep everything together
for very long.

I'd be ashamed to admit how much of this I learned through ridiculous
experience. >>
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