Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- W4dccqa
- Messages
Search
Re: DCC HO DC Question
Jan Frelin
At 21:34 2005-07-11 -0400, Rasa and Blair Smith wrote:
Hi 1. The DCC systems I've encountered all required AC input. Have you found one that runs on DC power? 2. Power is not the same as speed with DCC, the DCC signal is full power all the time. However, more power in the signal allows more speed. I like to aim for 14-15 volts on the tracks, which implies a similar amount of input power. If 13.8 VDC is satisfactory as long as we aren't looking for slotcarLike I wrote above, the systems I've found all require AC input. I was going to say that you can always change the power source at a later time if it doesn't work, but your situation kind of rules that out. /Jan |
DCC HO DC Question
Hi
For those with a lot more experience. I keep reading comments about 13.8 VDC not being enough to power DCC systems for HO, because you "dont get enough speed out of the locos". Now, when I think about it for not very long, it seems to me that that implys running the units at full throttle and being unsatisfied with performance. So what voltage DC is required to achieve full performance? Yes, I realize that we have to assume a few things, like the voltage drop to the farthest corner of the layout, etc. etc, but ignoring those factors for a moment, what input voltage DC should we strive for to get satisfactory DCC performance? If 13.8 VDC is satisfactory as long as we aren't looking for slotcar performance, then the next question becomes will a DCC system perform satisfactorily from an automobile electrical system? With and without alternator charging system, or only when the car is running? 12 VDC is the minimum input, right? Or is that optimistic? I ask all of this because there is a significant chance I am going to want to go off-grid in my next abode, and I expect 12 Volts will be part of my life at that point. Blair Smith |
Re: more dcc
wirefordcc
MT,
It appears that no one has developed a circuit that displays green for no short and red for short. There are probably several reason for this. 1. If a light bulb is not used to limit a short, DCC boosters shut down when a short occurs. This would make it hard for a circuit to know that a short is present. 2. When a short occurs, your trains comes to an abrupt stop. You don't need a light that tells you have a problem. You will already know you probably have a short before you look at any light. 3. If you use light bulbs to limit short circuit current, this will provide you with a short circuit indication. To learn more about using bulbs, go to: Note: At the moment I created this email, the server for the website appears to be down. Try later. Allan |
more dcc
zekda99
K am a little bit slow, have now figured out that DCC runs on AC, not
DC, (thus reason why lites come on in non dcc engines when put on dcc powered track) Now i want to know how to set up blocks that show one colored lite when all is ok and a red lite when I have a short...I know I need to use relays, but not quite sure how to configure them...I've had 22 yrs experience fixing radar and radios in aircraft but this one is eluding me. (plus i guess i'm getting old laugh laugh) mt |
Re: Help with DCC wiring of kato unitrack!
wirefordcc
Whoops! I see that when I added the "How to wire this turnout"
feature to my website, I missed the Kato turnouts. Sorry about that. I just updated the website. You should find the information you seek there now. Go to I strongly recommend soldered connections to the track. However, given that there is so much plastic in the Unitrack, if your soldering skills really are weak, you may do more harm than good. If you use joiners with wires attached to them, you should be good for several years IF THE JOINERS ARE TIGHT ON THE RAILS. Long term, you may start developing problems. Therefore, you really should solder your connections. Allan |
Help with DCC wiring of kato unitrack!
HELP!!! I am new to the hobby and I am currently building a dcc N
scale layout using KATO Unitrack. I am building the Manning Oaks #4417 layout plan that I downloaded from KATOUSA.com under the section for N scale layouts. The layout uses 6 left hand #6 swithces (turnouts) as well as a double crossover. I read on this website the articles on how to make the Unitrack #6 turnouts "DCC Friendly" by removing the tab or wiper arm that powers the frogs and to do the same with the Unitrack double crossover. I made theses modifications this weekend but now I am totally confused on how to wire the layout??? I already ran my bus wire under the layout but I have no clue on how and where to properly wire the switches and double crossover as they relate to the layout. Also, would it be O.K. to use the terminal Unijoiners as feeders and solder the ends of them to the bus wires or should I really solder feeders directly to the track? (My soldering skills are weak). Since my skills and knowledge of the hobby are very limited, please be specific as possible! |
Re: Automatic Train Control
Jan,
Glad to hear it. We're pretty flexible for updates and features. TheNo problem. I've added it to the solutions worth considering ;-) firmware running now hasn't changed in several months. It's about due for a update. If you have any features or functions that seem to be lacking, please let me know. At the moment, it just sends a 'kick' to get the motor moving when runningDo your system feature slow starts and stops? at slow speed. Since it doesn't have any Back-EMF or way to detect what the physical motor is doing, slow speed can be a bit tricky. It is really more dependant on the mechanics of the trolley/loco. The Brill trolley shown in my pictures is quite finicky at slow speeds. It has the factory motor. It works very nice with a 'normal' motor, not the factory pancake in the Brill. We could add a more flexible ramp or curve to get your motor stable at slow speeds. This would take the form of 'settings' that you could 'tweak' for your specific trolley, much the same as CV's in a mobile DCC decoder. Been considering it, but we have a much more aggressive plan for this that IYour homepage say you're considering a DCC version. can't quite talk about yet, more like a universal throttle... I understand and agree. I have NCE, Lenz, MRC, and Digitrax here, you areAs we're using a Lenz system, using Loconet is a non-starter. right, committing to one is a non-starter for the others. Have a plan, but still working on the solution. I suppose that is about the limit for what we should talk about on-list, if you have more questions or comments, best to send me off-list so I don't offend anyone here. If anyone else has questions, please let me know! Bob Scheffler ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ www.dcctester.com "Test all the data on your Rails!" |
Re: Automatic Train Control
Jan Frelin
At 13:05 2005-07-01 -0600, Robert Scheffler wrote:
Not sure if you are interested in DC control. Keeping all the warnings MarkNo problem. I've added it to the solutions worth considering ;-) Do your system feature slow starts and stops? Your homepage say you're considering a DCC version. As we're using a Lenz system, using Loconet is a non-starter. /Jan |
Re: Automatic Train Control
Not sure if you are interested in DC control. Keeping all the warnings Mark
has described about mixing DC and DCC on the track level in mind. This system will only work with DC: It has up to 8 station sensors (for me Hall-Effect sensors) that simply 'close' when the Trolley is over them. You put a small magnet on the bottom of your Trolley and the controller can start and stop at any station. It can change position of up to 4 twin-coil switch machines, or 4 slow-motion switch machines. I have one setup on my layout with 4 switch tracks and 8 station sensors. It drives from any point to any point using a scripting-like table of events. You just say "Drive East at 40%", "Wait For Station A", "Stop for 5 seconds", "Throw Turnout 2", "Drive West at 50%", "Wait for Station B", "Stop for 25 Seconds", etc... This would be considered a "ROUTE". You can create many "ROUTES" and then build them up into a "SCHEDULE" so that the movements are not just a "BUMP AND REVERSE" type of controller. Having an automatic line is actually pretty cool because it really does run itself. It doesn't use a computer once you have the "ROUTES" set. When you power it on, it just starts the "SCHEDULE" you have stored. The programming of the "ROUTES" is done with a PC, but after that, no PC needed. This is my product, so sorry for the plug, since you didn't get any better answers, I though you might appreciate this. Bob Scheffler ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ PRICOM Design www.pricom.com |
Re: Automatic Train Control
Jan Frelin
At 11:18 2005-07-01 -0700, Mark Gurries wrote:
That's what I suspected, thanks for confirming.Friends,Nothing is simpler or more cost effective than a DC solution. Some thoughts...That solution is something like what I had in mind. We don't want any rolling stock straying into the way of the automatic tram, anyway. Thanks for a comprehensive answer. Yours, Jan |
Re: Automatic Train Control
Mark Gurries
Friends,Nothing is simpler or more cost effective than a DC solution. DCC has layout automation software for DCC. is an example of such software. But you will need a computer, a computer interface to the DCC system, sensors in the track (DC will need that too) and do some programming. Definitely more expensive and requires a computer running to make it happen. The DC solution would be hands off easy to setup and forget. Some thoughts... Generally mixing DC and DCC is not recommended by anyone. I can result in destruction of a booster, DC throttle or both if both power sources connect to each other. (DCC is a form of AC power) If you must run DC, the recommendation is that one have a master switch that toggle the whole layout between DC or DCC but NEVER both at the same time. Many layouts have done this successfully. There was an article about how one club did it in MR magazine. If you MUST have DC and DCC present, there are some recommended rules. 1) Isolate at least a 12: section of track the goes between the DC power section of the layout and the DCC powered portion of the layout. A no mans land with not power. Using a momentary center off switch, you would toggle the power of the dead section of track to DC or DCC depending on which side of the dead section of track you need to get power from. The key is momentary switch. A standard toggle will no be safe for you will forget to turn it off. 2) Another option to isolate the approach track from the DCC portion of the layout and power it through a Lenz LT100. The LT100 is connected to your DC power pack output. It monitors for signs of DCC and will instantly disconnect the DC power pack from the track protecting both system. I should say that running a locomotive from DC section of track to a DCC section of track can lead to a runaway locomotive. Most decoder make a decision on first power up to run in DCC or DC mode. As long as power is maintained, that decision remains true. So if the decoder see DCC power after while it has been running in DC mode, the decoder will not recognize the DCC and assume the DCC is nothing more than full throttle DC power and vrooom..... The reverse DCC to DC is less predictable. The engine may simple stop and not run OR switch to DC mode with a very erratic reaction in the process. Part of the randomness to all this is the nature of an engine rolling on track with the corresponding momentary loss of power. Dirt, oxidation, clean wheel, number of wheel pickups and other such factor play into the experience. Best Regards, Mark Gurries Linear Technology Power Supply & Battery Charger Applications Engineer/Manager --------------------------------------------------------- Model Railroad Club and NMRA DCC presentations are at: -------------------------------------------------------- Audio Enthusiast (Love SAE equipment) ---------------------------------------------------------- |
Automatic Train Control
Jan Frelin
Friends,
My club has a requirement for a tram that just goes back and forth between it's terminal track and staging/storage. We want this to be automatically controled. There are several kits for doing just this on the market, but all I have found are DC based. As this track is connected with the general layout, we would prefer a DCC solution, but this seems to require a computer, a computer interface, and track detectors. My question is: Is there a simpler solution with DCC? What's the cheapest DCC-based solution (without building your own hardware or sofware)? |
Fw: Welcome to WiringForDCC
Jerry Silver
Tom,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Well, I signed up for this forum and posted a message. Here are the links....... Jerry ----- Original Message -----
From: "WiringForDCC Moderator" <WiringForDCC-owner@...> To: <jsilver9@...> Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 11:58 AM Subject: Welcome to WiringForDCC
|
Re: '3-rail' diagram?
jsilver6307
--- In WiringForDCC@..., "wirefordcc"
<wire4dcc_admin@c...> wrote: Jerry,Sorry, Allan - new to this also. I've posted the diagram to the 'files' section. I's probably one of your drawing that I modified. The layout we're working on will be large (78' by 40') and require several power districts. Great way to start the hobby! Jerry |
New file uploaded to WiringForDCC
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the WiringForDCC group. File : /3-rail power diagram.jpg Uploaded by : jsilver6307 <jsilver9@...> Description : 3-rail diagram? You can access this file at the URL: To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit: Regards, jsilver6307 <jsilver9@...> |
Re: '3-rail' diagram?
wirefordcc
Jerry,
If you want to show us a drawing, you need to post it to the file area. Drawings attached to emails are removed by Yahoo. I may be able to answer your question without seeing it. You are correct, 3-rail is easy because the outside rails are common. Three rail is particularly advantagous with reverse loops. Unlike 2 rail, you don't have to do anything special for 3-rail. Allan |
'3-rail' diagram?
Jerry Silver
Does the attached/modified 2-rail drawing represent DCC wiring for 'O' gage (3-rail)? I'm new to model railroading and have chosen to use 3-rail 'O' as my base platform. I've not been able to find much information (that I can interpret as 3-rail information) on wiring that is specific to 3-rail. I thought 3-rail would be easy because the outside rails are common and the inside rail is signal. Maybe I'm wrong!!
Advice/council appreciated - THANKS! |
to navigate to use esc to dismiss