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I’m pretty sure a dual frog juicer should work if you need to change the polarity of the rails as wheels go over it. Don’t know anything about Unifrog. Peter

Allan Thanks I thought I had one in stock but it was a Mono Frog Juicer. Just ordered one from IronPlanetHobbies. I see on the board the two frog connectors and DCC IN Looks like a simple setup. --

Hi Tom, Just get a dual Frog Juicer from Tam Valley Depot and set it up to gang the two parts of the unit to work together.? Hook the two wires for the track bus up to your track bus.? Hook the two

Hello Guys, I just got my first Unifrog? Crossing.? Was using Atlas but I have two engine that hesitate when they go over the frog. Since this is not a turnout how do I power the frogs on the

Like many others have described, I use 22AWG solid wires for my feeders. For soldering this to the rail, I strip about 3/8" of the end of the wire. I then use flat jaw plyers to flatten the last 1/8"

You could use the 167P18 transformer from Hammond Mfg. As a safety precaution, using an rrampmeter, it would be wise to measure the voltage at the output of your Command Station/Booster before using

The quick answer is "yes". However... It sounds like you haven't got any automation done yet, and that means you are in for a lot of choices. You'll need to read up on: - warrants - YAAT - Detection -

Is there a DCC way to designate a section of track as SLOW, or to put in a auto STOP at a terminus?

Don Weight is entirely correct DonV

mwbailey, The basic wiring requirements for DC and DCC are the same! If it's easier for you to think about it as wiring for DC, go ahead. Most layouts, if they work for DC, will work with DCC without

Your understanding is correct, Jim Z.? The semicircle in the drawing is actually an oval (with a few spurs and sidings).? On the right, the tracks stop at the end of the drawing and are not

DonV, Thanks for the AR verification tip with the loco headlight. I've been chasing down a PM42 set up for AR and kept getting different readings and sometimes it would work but it was slow and not

if i understand the drawing and explanation correctly the left side semicircle actually connects to form an oval?? What's happening on the right side?? is that the end of the layout or does the

So, Jim Z suggested photos help.? I've attached a drawing called something like Paper Mill Extension.? The top, right track is the WYE with insulations/breaks (blue lines) where that track returns

mwbailey, Setting the breaker to 3 amps may just move the trip to the PowerCab instead of to the DCC breaker.? Tell us this - does the PowerCab 'blink' when it trips when you power up?? If it does

You can easily verify that the auto reverser is working by using a short jumper wire across one of the rail isolating gaps. Place a non moving loco with the headlight on within the AR section. Then

Drawings are always helpful to see when requesting this kind of help, but do make certain that your reverser trip current any delay timing is LESS than your booster/power supply/overall trip current

OK, I think I set the breaker to trip at 3 amps -- if 2 amps is good, 3 amps ought to be better -- using CV. I don't know if I can determine for sure the breaker trip setting has been changed. I ran a

Your system can put out more than 1.6A, but only for a few moments. That might be enough to get your locomotives to start. Set your PSX breaker higher and see if it trips. Puckdropper

Set the breakers to trip at 2 amps. Then report back. Make sure there is no electrical connection from either motor connection to the motor or loco frame DonV