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This is what the NCE sites says about protection of the Powercab "The Power Cab has built in overload for basic self-protection that will continuously try to reset until destroyed if left

That makes a lot of sense Blair. Thank you.

Dave, It's a function of prior-current, I suspect - if the bulb was already seeing significant current(i.e. a couple of locos running at speed), then the filament is already warming, so when the

Well I guess wiring up my 1156 bulbs was a bit of an exercise in futility since the powercab responds more quickly. However, the bulbs sometimes do respond first so at the end of the day, they offer

This paper might be of interest to you. https://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachments/improving-atlas-turnouts-ii-pdf.554704/ if the link doesn’t work search for ‘improving atlas turnouts’. You

Hi Dave, Using a 1156 bulb doesn't work with all systems.? As you probably know, the filament in the bulb needs to heat up for the bulb to limit current.? Some systems are faster than the bulb and

I have read a lot about using the 1156 bulb for short protection and understand how it works. However, I have an NCE Powercab and find that the Powercab typically senses a power surge first and my

I have a 23 foot long running in/test track. It is currently running in DC, controlled by a DC shuttle unit. After building, cleaning or repair, my locos were put on this and run until everything was

There are two holes in the frog, run a tap into the hole and use a screw, looks shabby but it works and a dab of black paint disguises it. I don't know the size of the tap, i fudged it.Atlas should

The Atlas turnouts have a metal frog to which soldering is nigh impossible. I've used conductive paint with reasonably good results. After it has completely dried, put on another coat, and let dry.

I would use a Decoder Buddy. The resistors will be right and it's less expensive. Craig Zeni Cary, NC Despatched from my infernal Android wrote:

Hello everyone, well Athearn won't stand behind the fact they installed the wrong resistors on my motherboard so I've got to order a new one.? After looking at their site I see a couple to choose

Michael, It might, but keep in mind that the wire must: 1) be of adequate size to carry the full current required by the least energy-friendly train you can think of, and 2) be very flexbile so as

That will work.? Leave a bit of slack in the wire.?

I think I could solder a single strand of wire from the point to the closure rail it leads to to power the points. Wouldn’t that do it? ?Pardon me if I used the wrong term there.? Mike

I have some 4 and 5 inch drill bits that are from 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch. There are available but they sometimes melt foam with friction and mess up the bits. I have used pieces or steel wire chucked

Steve, Thanks. I did not think about going all the way through the layout base. But I do have 1 inch of foam plus 1/2 inch of ply. I did struggle a little with feeder wires. even with using a piece

Perry writes: “It will be a time consuming project to wire all my turnouts.” It may appear a bit daunting at first, but your project can be broken down into easily completed tasks.

Michael, I would "re-wire" (simply re-gap?) the turntable so that it is a "split ring" style of turntable.? Yes, this can cause a 'hiccup' in the sound as a loco is turned.? My response is "so

Turntables generally reverse their own polarity at halfway through their rotation. If you pull onto a turntable bridge, then rotate 180 degrees your bridge will be at it original N / S orientation.