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Colin,
Your quite right. The layout is the Jerome & Southwestern by John
Olson. The original plan is from 1983 and a lot of the parts are no
longer available, the Atlas double radius switches being the big
problem. They worked out between a number 4 & 5 and the Peco Setrack
was the next best thing I could locate. I have a 2-4-2 that makes
it ok but I've found that if the wheels arn't perfect you'll catch
the frog. I'm going to see if I can fit the Peco double radius but I
don't really want to re-lay half the layout.

Dianna Lee


--- In WiringForDCC@..., Colin Riley <cptracks@y...>
wrote:

Setrack is supposed to be Peco's version of snaptrack. I have used

some Setrack turnouts and they were insulfrog. To be honest I also
took them all out. They have a sharper radius than the normal Peco
units and I thought I could use them in my industrial areas plus one
area on the main where a sharper radius would really be a benefit
(so I thought, first layout with very limited room, can you tell?).
They worked fine for 4 axle diesels and most 6 axles, but Lord have
mercy when I tried to run steam through the inside track. They are
gone, gone, gone. I lost some room and trackage I really wanted, but
the trade was worth it to me. I guess it all depends on what you
want to do.

Colin

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@c...> wrote:
Dianna,

I've never heard of the Peco Settrack. If I am understanding the
description of your problem, it sounds like the rails leaving the

frog

need insulated joiners on them. This would make the Settrack like

the

Peco Electrofrog. The Electrofrog is on my website at:


Give the insulated joiners a try and see if that solves your

problem.

There is no risk in you trying this. It won't harm anything if

this

is wrong.

Allan










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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Setrack is supposed to be Peco's version of snaptrack. I have used some Setrack turnouts and they were insulfrog. To be honest I also took them all out. They have a sharper radius than the normal Peco units and I thought I could use them in my industrial areas plus one area on the main where a sharper radius would really be a benefit (so I thought, first layout with very limited room, can you tell?). They worked fine for 4 axle diesels and most 6 axles, but Lord have mercy when I tried to run steam through the inside track. They are gone, gone, gone. I lost some room and trackage I really wanted, but the trade was worth it to me. I guess it all depends on what you want to do.
Colin

wirefordcc <wire4dcc_admin@...> wrote:
Dianna,

I've never heard of the Peco Settrack. If I am understanding the
description of your problem, it sounds like the rails leaving the frog
need insulated joiners on them. This would make the Settrack like the
Peco Electrofrog. The Electrofrog is on my website at:


Give the insulated joiners a try and see if that solves your problem.
There is no risk in you trying this. It won't harm anything if this
is wrong.

Allan










SPONSORED LINKS
Lionel model train European model trains Model railroads Ho scale model train Ho model trains Model train n scale

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To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Probably the best tool that your feeders are adequate costs 25
cents. Yes, I'm talking about using a quarter. If your booster
shorts out promptly when you place a quarter across your rails, you
are good to go. You can use a screwdriver or a pair of pliers,
too. This is a test everyone should run when through hooking up
feeders. It really is a good indication of the quality of your
connections.

If you are worried about the data being corrupted, after your short
test, try a locomotive with a decoder in it.

If you are worried about excessive voltage or ringing on your track,
try building the ultra simple circuits I describe in my website
at: or buying a DCC meter
from Tony's Train Exchange.

I've never needed anything else. And after successful testing with
a quarter, things have always worked for me.

Allan

Dianna,

I've never heard of the Peco Settrack. If I am understanding the
description of your problem, it sounds like the rails leaving the frog
need insulated joiners on them. This would make the Settrack like the
Peco Electrofrog. The Electrofrog is on my website at:


Give the insulated joiners a try and see if that solves your problem.
There is no risk in you trying this. It won't harm anything if this
is wrong.

Allan

After attaching all feeder connections , is their a tool available
to check all the feeder connections around the layout to make sure
they are supplying power and data ?

Hi Paul

While researching circuit breakers and auto reversers, I came across this at
Tony’s. An article about auto reverser comparisons. In case you have not
seen it, see it at:



Marcus

Open Question to the List,

I looked at wiring for DCC which has electro and insulat but nothing on
setrack.

I have them set frog to frog as a siding a meter in length. One side
of the turnout no problem how the points are set. The other side is
shorted when set to through.

Any help or thoughts?

Dianna Lee

Yes, you do need a Digitrax throttle to configure the PM42. You
might be ablke to find an old DT100 or similar for a song, so it
might not be that bad.

If, however, you still can return the PM42, PowerShield and PSRev
units from Tony's might be a better choice in your application.

Doug Stuard

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "Marcus Ammann" <mammann@o...>
wrote:

Hi Paul

As you have an NCE system, like me, for an auto reverse unit you

must use a

DCC manufacturer not the same as your system. NCE does not make any

auto

reversers and have them marketed under the NCE brand. There is no
alternative.

The Digitrax PM42 will most probably work on NCE, but if it required
"adjustment", then this could only be done with a Digitrax

throttle.

For users of any DCC system, other than Digitrax, I would only buy

units

manufactured by anyone other than Digitrax. These include Tony's

Train

Exchange - PS Rev Power Shields. MRC's - AD520 and Lenz's - LK100.

See Tony's site for details for auto reversers at:



For using the auto reversers on return loops see the above site and

Allan's

site at:



There are no cheap and simple solutions for "return loops" that

operate

automatically and "transparent".

My recommendation for an auto reverser would be Tony's PS Rev.

These are

solid state electronic units. I have seen and others have reported

problems

with using mechanical relay types of auto reversers. They may cost

a little

more but they offer trouble free operation to everyone that uses

them.

Marcus.



Original message
Paul said on 23 December 2005 Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC]

AutoReverse

Modules

Thanks for your replies. Yes, I actually have 3 auto-reverse

areas and 1

turntable, this is why I was going to use the PM42. I'm using a

NorthCoast

Pro
DCC unit. Reading the forum I think I would need a DigiTrax

throttle to

change any settings to make the PM42 an autoreverse module. Is

there any

way
around this using the Northcoast since I've already purchased it?

I still have the option to return the PM42 and go a different

route.

Is it better with DCC to stay with the products that are the same

brand as

your control unit?

Marcus, I will be using the autoreverse module as a return loop.

Do you

have any suggestions?

Paul



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.5/212 - Release Date:

12/23/2005

Hi Paul

As you have an NCE system, like me, for an auto reverse unit you must use a
DCC manufacturer not the same as your system. NCE does not make any auto
reversers and have them marketed under the NCE brand. There is no
alternative.

The Digitrax PM42 will most probably work on NCE, but if it required
"adjustment", then this could only be done with a Digitrax throttle.

For users of any DCC system, other than Digitrax, I would only buy units
manufactured by anyone other than Digitrax. These include Tony's Train
Exchange - PS Rev Power Shields. MRC's - AD520 and Lenz's - LK100.

See Tony's site for details for auto reversers at:



For using the auto reversers on return loops see the above site and Allan's
site at:



There are no cheap and simple solutions for "return loops" that operate
automatically and "transparent".

My recommendation for an auto reverser would be Tony's PS Rev. These are
solid state electronic units. I have seen and others have reported problems
with using mechanical relay types of auto reversers. They may cost a little
more but they offer trouble free operation to everyone that uses them.

Marcus.



Original message
Paul said on 23 December 2005 Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] AutoReverse
Modules

Thanks for your replies. Yes, I actually have 3 auto-reverse areas and 1
turntable, this is why I was going to use the PM42. I'm using a NorthCoast
Pro
DCC unit. Reading the forum I think I would need a DigiTrax throttle to
change any settings to make the PM42 an autoreverse module. Is there any
way
around this using the Northcoast since I've already purchased it?

I still have the option to return the PM42 and go a different route.

Is it better with DCC to stay with the products that are the same brand as
your control unit?

Marcus, I will be using the autoreverse module as a return loop. Do you
have any suggestions?

Paul



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.5/212 - Release Date: 12/23/2005

Hi Paul

It depends on whether your sections of track that need voltage polarity
reversing, enter and exit by the same turnout or different turnouts.

For a section that enters and exits the same turnout, I call this a reverse
loop. For a section that enters and exits by DIFFERENT turnouts, I call this
a return loop.

Auto reversers are expensive, so for the "reverse loop" I use a DPST (double
pole single through) switch or a relay that is connected to the operating
throw bar of a turnout. The train enters the reverse loop and to exit the
reverse loop you will have to operate the turnout. This is normal. Operating
the turnout will also operate the switch/relay that will change the polarity
of the track voltage. The train will continue as if nothing happened.

So for a loop that is used for changing the direction of the train a switch
will achieve the same as an auto reverser.

The "return loop" is a different proposition due to the layout construction.
The return loop may be at the end of a yard where either the yard or the
return loop voltage polarity has to be reversed. This can only be done
automatically and easily by using an Auto reverser.

Turntables are another example where an auto reverser and not a switch must
be used.

More information can be obtained by reading Allan's "Wiring for DCC" at:



Marcus

Thanks for your replies. Yes, I actually have 3 auto-reverse areas and 1
turntable, this is why I was going to use the PM42. I'm using a NorthCoast Pro
DCC unit. Reading the forum I think I would need a DigiTrax throttle to
change any settings to make the PM42 an autoreverse module. Is there any way
around this using the Northcoast since I've already purchased it?

I still have the option to return the PM42 and go a different route.

Is it better with DCC to stay with the products that are the same brand as
your control unit?

Marcus, I will be using the autoreverse module as a return loop. Do you
have any suggestions?

Paul

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "sawlumber2004"
<sawlumber@a...> wrote:

I'm thinking about purchasing a PM42 Digitrax because I have 4

sections

that need auto-reverse (or loops). I noticed that the PM42 can

power

manage for 4 independent auto-reversing sections. I have an NCE

DCC

system. I happened to look through the manual and I think I

understand

how to wire it. Is there anything else I need to be aware of?

I'm

thinking that the factory default settings will work with my

system. I

sure hope so.

The PM42 will certainly do the job, as it can be run independently
from the loconet, but you will need a digitrax throttle to change
any of the settings.

Keep in mind that when a PM42 section is configured as an auto-
reverser, it does not provide short circuit protection (it reverses
the voltage polarity, rather than disconnecting it). Your booster
or other power manager must provide that function.

You might want to consider a PM42 used as a power manager/breaker
followed by AR1 revering modules for your reversing sections.
Another approach would be the Power Shiels and PSRev products from
Tony's Trains. See

This is all new to me and at times very confusing. Do you have

any

suggestions about how a beginner can learn all about this stuff?

Read, read, read...If you can get hold of "The Big Book of DCC" from
Digitrax (now out of print, but an updated version is due "soon").

Also, the following dealers have good intro material:

Tony's Trains:


Loy's Toys:


and Litchfield Station:


After that, Google can help you get as deep into it as you want.

Doug Stuard
NVNTRAK

Thanks
Paul Weaver
sawlumber@a...

I'm thinking about purchasing a PM42 Digitrax because I have 4 sections
that need auto-reverse (or loops). I noticed that the PM42 can power
manage for 4 independent auto-reversing sections. I have an NCE DCC
system. I happened to look through the manual and I think I understand
how to wire it. Is there anything else I need to be aware of? I'm
thinking that the factory default settings will work with my system. I
sure hope so.

This is all new to me and at times very confusing. Do you have any
suggestions about how a beginner can learn all about this stuff?

Thanks
Paul Weaver
sawlumber@...

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "Doug Stuard" <dstuard@c...>
wrote:

3M ScotchLok 905 connectors accomodate 18-14 AWG on the "run" and

22-

18 AWG on the "tap" connection. They are single blade

connectors.

I dont believe there is a dual blade (similar to the ScotchLok

567,

12-10 run, 18-14 tap) for your smaller wire.

_contractors/node_GSPV65GVLXbe/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GSBCDFDZ1Zge/g

vel_RZZJLFZNT6gl/theme_us_electricalcontractors_3_0/command_AbcPageHa

ndler/output_html

Doug



b --- In WiringForDCC@..., "John Churchward"
<jcebay@n...> wrote:

Hi
I do not have the catalogue but I have just started wiring

up

and laying

using just those gauges and I have used a 3m scotchlok which has

a

1/4"

blade recepticle built in. That means if you have a problem you

can just

unclip that feeder. It does mean that you have to buy a bag of

blades as

well but you can also put more than one feeder into the blade

if

you want

to.........works well for me

Regards

John Churchward
-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@...

[mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On

Behalf Of jmscnw
Sent: 01 December 2005 00:10
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] IDC Connectors


I am using 14 gauge wire for bus and 20 gauge wire for feeders.
I am not sure which type will work well for DCC.
I have a Mouser catalog which sells several types.









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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
where do you buy these at? I am wanting to save some labor

steve

I have an atlas crossing 60 degree, how would i wire that for dcc?
steve

Dave,

I'm through with final exams. I have added a drawing for wiring the
Walther's 3-way turnout to my website and how to wire it. It is
located at:

Allan

For DCC buss wire use, does it matter if I use SOLID or STRANDED wire ?

Not really. Use either type as you desire.
Stranded is more flexible but may require crimped spade/ring lug connections to screw terminal strips if you use them.
Solid wire can be used with screw terminals without any crimped on lugs. May hold twists better than stranded.
DonV

For DCC buss wire use, does it matter if I use SOLID or STRANDED wire ?

Hi Mike,

On December 17, Mike Langford wrote:

Is anyone using DecoderPro for setting up your decoders? If so can I use
the PR1 and the small portable programming box/track I built with it or do I
need to purchase what they recommend to use with it? Just curious...

Nope, you'll need to use another piece of hardware.

At this point in time, If you want a standalone programming track (i.e. one that
is NOT connected to a standard command station) you'll need to obtain an
SPROG-II from I own the serial version of this
device, and they do work very well.

Alternatly, if you really want to use that PR-1, you could volunteer to write a
JMRI driver for it. You don't necessarilly need to be well versed in Java to
do this, but a little low level programming experience would be helpfull
(especially for a device like the PR-1, where most of the code will be low
level code).

Paul

List,

Is anyone using DecoderPro for setting up your decoders? If so can I use
the PR1 and the small portable programming box/track I built with it or do I
need to purchase what they recommend to use with it? Just curious...

Mike Langford
SOO Line 1966-67
Digitrax User Since 1996