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attaching feeder wires to bus

Jerry Goodwin
 

How do you connect the feeder wire to the bus?

If you solder it, how do you strip the insulation from the bus in the
middle of a stretch of wire without cutting the wire?

And how do you avoid dripping hot solder on your face?


Re: Schematic for booster.

wirefordcc
 

You may be thinking of the MiniBooster(c) by MiniDCC(c). Yes, you got
to it from my site through my Do-It-Yourself page. The URL for
MiniDCC is: Scroll to the bottom of their
page and click on MiniBooster(c) circuit.

CVP Products is still selling a simple booster kit. It can be found
at:


Schematic for booster.

 

There was a schematic for a real simple booster. It may not have had missing DCC detection, over voltage os some other features, but it was real simple. I may have seen it while browsing this site a month or so ago.

Now I can't find it.

I think there might have been a parts list with it too, but not sure.

The thread had someones remark to the efect " That's it? Thats all there is?"



I've search and searched. I guess I should have bookmarked it, but nope!



Now I need to build one. Anyone remember seeing it, or perhaps another real simple booster?

B0B


Re: Boosters and tail lights

Jan Frelin
 

I'm not sure you can set the trip time on a Lenz system, but lightbulbs
work just fine with the Lenz system we have at our club. (Set 90)

At 15:53 2005-10-29 +0000, wirefordcc wrote:


I don't know what the trip time is on your Lenz system. Perhaps the
manual states it somewhere. Or you could contact them and ask.

The trip time needs to be about 1/2 second. My Digitrax Chief gives
me a choice of 1/8 or 1/2 second. On 1/8 second, the Chief trips
before the light bulb has a chance to light up. At a 1/2 second, the
light lights up about 95% of the time before the Chief trips.

If your Lenz manual doesn't state the trip time, all you need to do is
buy a bulb and try. In the United States, an 1156 tail light bulb
sells for about $1.59 for two of them.

If your Lenz trips too fast, check your manual and see if the trip
time is adjustable. I know the Digitrax Chief isn't the only one that
is adjustable.

Allan






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Re: decoder equipped locomotive will no respond to the emergancy stop key

mhn_416
 

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "wirefordcc" <wire4dcc_admin@c...>
wrote:

Peter,

Check the manual. I am pretty sure that you have to hold the
emergency stop key for about 6 seconds. I never considered this very
useful as my train has surely collided with another train or wrecked
by then! If I need to do an emergency stop on my Digitrax system I
do
a power off instead.

Allan
thanks allan i will try it

peter


Re: decoder equipped locomotive will no respond to the emergancy stop key

wirefordcc
 

Peter,

Check the manual. I am pretty sure that you have to hold the
emergency stop key for about 6 seconds. I never considered this very
useful as my train has surely collided with another train or wrecked
by then! If I need to do an emergency stop on my Digitrax system I do
a power off instead.

Allan


Re: Boosters and tail lights

JOHN
 

Dear Allan
Thanks for the info I will check and see....john

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On
Behalf Of wirefordcc
Sent: 29 October 2005 16:54
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Re: Boosters and tail lights



I don't know what the trip time is on your Lenz system. Perhaps the
manual states it somewhere. Or you could contact them and ask.

The trip time needs to be about 1/2 second. My Digitrax Chief gives
me a choice of 1/8 or 1/2 second. On 1/8 second, the Chief trips
before the light bulb has a chance to light up. At a 1/2 second, the
light lights up about 95% of the time before the Chief trips.

If your Lenz manual doesn't state the trip time, all you need to do is
buy a bulb and try. In the United States, an 1156 tail light bulb
sells for about $1.59 for two of them.

If your Lenz trips too fast, check your manual and see if the trip
time is adjustable. I know the Digitrax Chief isn't the only one that
is adjustable.

Allan










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Re: Boosters and tail lights

wirefordcc
 

I don't know what the trip time is on your Lenz system. Perhaps the
manual states it somewhere. Or you could contact them and ask.

The trip time needs to be about 1/2 second. My Digitrax Chief gives
me a choice of 1/8 or 1/2 second. On 1/8 second, the Chief trips
before the light bulb has a chance to light up. At a 1/2 second, the
light lights up about 95% of the time before the Chief trips.

If your Lenz manual doesn't state the trip time, all you need to do is
buy a bulb and try. In the United States, an 1156 tail light bulb
sells for about $1.59 for two of them.

If your Lenz trips too fast, check your manual and see if the trip
time is adjustable. I know the Digitrax Chief isn't the only one that
is adjustable.

Allan


decoder equipped locomotive will no respond to the emergancy stop key

mhn_416
 

i have just installed a mrc sound decoder in one of my locomotives all
cv's run fine, sound is good however when i try to stop the locomotive
using the emergancy stop key it does not respond.using the throttle to
reduce the speed to zero works fine . any suggesstion in correcting
this problem would be helpful. my system is digitrax super empire
builder with a dp150 command station and dt400 throttle. other decoders
whether digitrax or mrc installed in other engines work just fine.

thank

peter


recessed electrical switches

Glen Frix
 

I've seen electrical switches recessed into the facia of layouts. They
are recessed by the installation of a PVC fitting. I'm having trouble
locating the fitting (i.e. the local plumbing supply doesn't have them
and hasn't seem them). It's shaped like a "U" with a lip around the
outside edge of the "U." It's a 1-1/2" or 2" fitting. The closed end of
the fitting is flat (i.e. it's not a cap that you'd use to close the
end of a PVC pipe - these are rounded). The switch is mounted on the
closed end of the U. The lip gives an easy means of mounting the
fitting to the facia. Anybody out there seen this & can identify the
name of the part? Thanks.


Re: recessed electrical switches

 

You can get various 'dishes' from people who cater for speaker constructors
and the like.

I don't know about the U.S. but a browse at _www.maplin.co.uk_
() might turn up something to illustrate what I am talking about.

Pat
Wye Valley


Re: DCC track wiring.

Vollrath, Don
 

Worst case - You want to run more than one train at a time and they may overlap at the main tracks of the double crossover.
Need 2 A-R units. Wire the whole crossover section to be fixed track polarity right from the booster. Use insulated rail joiners at all 8 rails. Wire the left and right halves of the rest of the layout as two separate reversing sections, each with its own Auto-Reverser. If you throw all 4 throwbars of the Walthers double crossover to be the same position at the same time there will be no short circuits caused by steel wheels. Fairly easy to do w/ 4 Tortoise machines all wired to the same control switch.

Can also be done by moving the insulating rail gaps and A-R track sections away from the double crossover, out toward the actual end loops. Still requires 2 A-R track sections, but you COULD get by with using only 1 A-R unit if you can guarantee that only 1 train at a time will be rolling through the reversing tracks at any given moment. The advantage is that much of the double or single mainline track can be constant polarity, and you may get by with purchasing only 1 A-R unit. For trouble free operation make sure the reversing track sections you do end up with are always longer than the train.
DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@...
[mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of beaucoupbo
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 1:12 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] DCC track wiring.


Stumped:

I have built a DCCsystem and I cannot figure out how to wire a
complicated dogbone.

My two track mainline enters a double crossover that becomes a loop
coming back into the double crossover. I am using Lenz equipment
throughout.

My crossover and track in the loop is Shinohara purchased through
Walthers.

Help on this would be greatly appreciated

Doug Edwards


DCC track wiring.

beaucoupbo
 

Stumped:

I have built a DCCsystem and I cannot figure out how to wire a
complicated dogbone.

My two track mainline enters a double crossover that becomes a loop
coming back into the double crossover. I am using Lenz equipment
throughout.

My crossover and track in the loop is Shinohara purchased through
Walthers.

Help on this would be greatly appreciated

Doug Edwards


Re: I would like your opinion

Gene A. Dobbins Jr.
 

Don, Thanks for the reply and the suggestions. I will definately check out the NCE Powercab.
Gene

----- Original Message -----
From: Vollrath, Don
To: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] I would like your opinion


Gene,
You got it.
Just remove the wires from the DC power pack and connect them to the DCC system of your choice.
Take a good look at the NCE PowerCab. It is much easier to operate than Digitrax. Perfect for a layout such as yours, with few limits on future expansion.
DonV


-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@...
[mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of genead1
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2005 8:56 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] I would like your opinion


Hi,
I currently have an 11' X 5' DC layout with one passing type siding
which is non insulated with two Atlas remote turnout switches and and
no yard so there are no electical blocks. This layout has one crossing
track and several power feeds at various locations around the track.
My question is: can I use, say, a starter DCC system by just unhooking
the bus wires from my current DC powerpack and hooking the wires up to
the DCC system (Booster I presume )? I would just like to control the
speed of two or three trains on this one track. I also guess I would
have to use a programming track to program the decoder in the loco's.
By the way I do know that the loco's on this track would need to have
decoders on board. Currently I am considering the Digitrax Zypher as
the DCC system.
Thanks for any info.
Gene








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Re: I would like your opinion

Vollrath, Don
 

Gene,
You got it.
Just remove the wires from the DC power pack and connect them to the DCC system of your choice.
Take a good look at the NCE PowerCab. It is much easier to operate than Digitrax. Perfect for a layout such as yours, with few limits on future expansion.
DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@...
[mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of genead1
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2005 8:56 PM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] I would like your opinion


Hi,
I currently have an 11' X 5' DC layout with one passing type siding
which is non insulated with two Atlas remote turnout switches and and
no yard so there are no electical blocks. This layout has one crossing
track and several power feeds at various locations around the track.
My question is: can I use, say, a starter DCC system by just unhooking
the bus wires from my current DC powerpack and hooking the wires up to
the DCC system (Booster I presume )? I would just like to control the
speed of two or three trains on this one track. I also guess I would
have to use a programming track to program the decoder in the loco's.
By the way I do know that the loco's on this track would need to have
decoders on board. Currently I am considering the Digitrax Zypher as
the DCC system.
Thanks for any info.
Gene


I would like your opinion

genead1
 

Hi,
I currently have an 11' X 5' DC layout with one passing type siding
which is non insulated with two Atlas remote turnout switches and and
no yard so there are no electical blocks. This layout has one crossing
track and several power feeds at various locations around the track.
My question is: can I use, say, a starter DCC system by just unhooking
the bus wires from my current DC powerpack and hooking the wires up to
the DCC system (Booster I presume )? I would just like to control the
speed of two or three trains on this one track. I also guess I would
have to use a programming track to program the decoder in the loco's.
By the way I do know that the loco's on this track would need to have
decoders on board. Currently I am considering the Digitrax Zypher as
the DCC system.
Thanks for any info.
Gene


Installing Decoders in N Scale OMI

 

Has anyone been successful in installing decoders in N Scale OMI
locomotives (SD70 and SD45-2)? They are small!


Boosters and tail lights

jchurc2004
 

Dear All
Having just retired I amm looking to get back into modelling.
I have just acquired a Lenz 100 set with a LZV command station. Having
read the web page Wiring for DCC I really like the idea of sub buses
and tail lights to detect shorts apart from the fact that it
conveniently divides the layout into blocks ready for computer control.
What I need to know is the Lenz system suitable for the tail light
system as suggested in the article or does it shut down so quickly that
the bulb never lights!!!
Thanks for your time ....John (UK)


Re: Protecting Decoders

Ken
 

Wow! You packed a lot of info in that answer. So, the tests I did
before, where I set the O/P to 14Volts DC for a running engine and
then stalled the motor and got a .91A current draw @about a 10 volt
reading really isn't necessarally a .91 stall current? OOPS. Now I
have to figure out how to keep the voltage up @14VDC.

Never heard that before about the stall current being present @
startup, but it makes sense.

I appreciate the explanations, Bob. They help.
Ken

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "bobgrosh" <bobgrosh@h...>
wrote:


Burning out decoders:
1 - Stall current:
B0B


Re: Wiring Walthers/Shin 3-Way Switch for DCC

wirefordcc
 

Dave,

It is difficult to describe how to hook up the 3-way turnout in
words. I'm going to make a drawing and add it to my website, but I
may not have time to do so until my Christmas break. Here it is in
a few words. I hope you can follow it.

Use two of your favorite switchmachine to operate the two sets of
points. Any switchmachine will do. Just be sure they each have at
least 1 set of contacts for power routing frogs. Tortoises and the
NJ International twin-coil type both have at least 2 sets of such
contacts.

Starting at the heel of the turnout, call the first set of
points "A" and the second set "B". Then call the first frog you
encounter "1", then "2" and then finally "3."

Electrically tie frogs 1 and 2 together. Why they didn't do this
has me wondering if I have made a mistake in telling you to tie them
together. So I checked my work and it seems right.

Frogs 1 and 2 are controlled by the power routing contacts of the
switchmachine you use to control the A points. Frog 3 is controlled
by the power routing contacts you use to control the B points.

See one of the turnouts on my website for how to hook up power
routing switches to your buses.

Note that I have not specifically told you which bus the power
routing contacts are to be hooked to. That's because unless you are
extremely careful, you will hook them up wrong. So why fight
Murphy? Just hook them up one way and try running a loco across the
turnout. If it shorts, swap the wires going to the power routing
contacts and try again.

I'll post on this forum when I get time to make a drawing and add it
to my website.

Allan