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Re: Peco switches
Denny,
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I'd replace all of your push buttons. Those that have not yet failed may be imminent; simply dependent on how much they have been used over the years. I'd also recommend heavier duty push buttons. The popular, small red push buttons are for passing signals; not power. Allan Gartner Wiring for DCC -----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Denny Beutler via groups.io Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2024 8:01 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Peco switches Yes to both |
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Re: Peco switches
Denny,
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Are you using the Peco twin-coil switch machines underneath your turnouts?? Are any of them getting hot, too?? Are your pushbuttons push-on, push-off type or are they momentary contact type?? If you are using twin-coil switch machines, you should be using momentary contact type.? My initial suggestion for you to check is that the push buttons are no longer functioning well as momentary contact type.
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Allan
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Peco switches
our club has 6 switches ?4 operates 2 crossovers .using single pole push button switches, what is happening the five of the switches are only switching ?one way ?they get quite hot ?. We checked for the usual problems and couldn¡¯t find anything .these switches wired per peco instructions . They¡¯ve been operating flawlessly for ten yrs any ideas would be helpful |
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Re: soldering procedure
The soldering tweezers and the forceps are very close to one another, but you are not trying to solder exactly the same spot.? The wire is formed into a little "L" and laid against the rail.? Depending on your skill and how particular you are, how small you can make the "L".? There is no hard and fast rule about how long you make the "L" and whether you attach the forceps near the bend of the "L" or at the end of the "L".??
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Sometimes you will find that the feeder will lay up against the side of the rail without the need to use forceps at all.??
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Definitely practice on some scrap pieces of track and see what works best for you.? We all have pieces of track that are too short to use, but for whatever reason, we don't want to throw them away! :)
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There is no particular brand of forceps you need to use.? You are just trying to hold the feeder in place if it won't stay in position on its own.? Forceps do come in different sizes.? It may be hard to get the real small ones to grip the rail.? The real big ones have a big tip and put a lot of twisting motion on the rail.? I just measured the ones I have.? They are 5" long.? Another inch or two probably won't matter, but I wouldn't go bigger than that.? Some also have a curved end.? These tend to want to fall over.? So I recommend straight forceps.??
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Allan Gartner
Wiring for DCC |
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soldering procedure
1. On page 55 of June 2021 MR issue the soldering set up has clamping wire to be soldered to track with forceps.
2. Then apply drop of gel liquid flux to the wire and then squeeze tweezers on spot you want to solder.
3. Seems like forceps and tweezers are on same spot. Seems like both are in same spot. Am I mis-reading?????? ??
4. Any preference on what brand of forceps????
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Thanks.
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Re: Resistance soldering unit
I cannot solder!? Faced with hundreds of track feeders in my huge N scale layout, I started to research methods. I came up with a PBL Hotip resistance soldering unit.? Every piece of track has a feeder wire no matter how small and it has been amazing!? So simple to use. I bought it 25 years ago when I first started this project and am still finding uses for it now as I approach the completion stage. These PBL units may now be difficult to acquire but if you can find one, jump on it ... you will not be disappointed! Regards,? Stuart? from Down Under |
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Re: Resistance soldering unit
No electronics connected.
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Photo Notifications
#photo-notice
Group Notification
nyg12569@... added the photo album Petes new layout wiring : This is a new layout I plan to start constructing as soon as I get all the phases sorted. Electrical and DCC is the last phase that needs to be planned and worked out. Its a 12' x 12' 6" in On30 scale. The following photos have been uploaded to the Petes new layout wiring photo album of the [email protected] group. By: nyg12569@... |
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Re: Resistance soldering unit
Resistance soldering is the ultimate in get it hot and get it done quick.? As noted, soldering methods are a matter of preference.? But a lot of people that have tried it, are sold on it.
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It does put out a couple of volts.? So do make sure you don't have any electronics connected before making your connection.??
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Allan
Wiring for DCC |
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Re: Resistance soldering unit
Hi Folks... Like most things, soldering can be a matter of personal preference. I have used Resistance Soldering for a 20+ years, but very rarely on track. A soldering iron works (I use basic 40-60 watt units), and so does a res soldering unit. I have rarely melted a tie, but it's a matter of technique. If you can possibly try?out the res sol unit before buying it (try a friend's), you can make a more informed decision. But don't automatically assume it's better. Perhaps just get a little more practice with a soldering iron on a spare piece of flex track.? ...Tom On Thu, Oct 31, 2024 at 7:00?AM fire5506 via <fire5506=[email protected]> wrote:
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Re: Resistance soldering unit
I'm curious, why use a resistance soldering unit? I have always used regular
soldering iron to solder feeders to code 100 rail, soldered rail joiners to rail also.
I've never melted any ties either.
?I have used resistance soldering units from big water cooled units doing silver
soldering to 100watt units.
?I would not use an RS unit on track if there is any electronics attached to the rail,
this may just be an over abundance of caution.
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Richard Webster |
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Re: Resistance soldering unit
Good questions!
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Get the tweezers. They have served me well over the past 40 years.? You can always add the pliers if you find a need for them.? That's what I thought I'd do, but I have never found a need for the pliers.
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I didn't realize they made a light vs. standard duty 250W units.? Mine looks like the light duty unit (apparently nothing has changed in 40 years) and I measured the probe tips.? I definitely have the light duty unit.? Since the light duty unit has served me well for the past 40 years, you don't need to spend the extra money for the standard duty unit. (I admit, these things are not cheap.)
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Should you be considering other brands?? There are certainly other brands.? The American Beauty (I know, strange name) units are industrial products and hence, why they are not cheap.? I've used a couple of others from time to time, but I don't know what brand they were or if they are still made.
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None of the others that I have used are continuously variable. I recall some with 2 and some with 4 power levels.? They worked fine.? As long as you can get a power level that allows you to make a quick connection, you will be okay.
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Note to G scalers: It takes a lot of heat for more than a few seconds to solder to G-scale track.? I built my G-scale railroad using my light duty unit (not knowing there was a standard duty unit).? My track was code 250 nickel-silver.? The standard duty unit wouldn't be a bad idea for code 322 brass.? For G-scale, I would definitely recommend an industrial unit like the American Beauty.? You might burn up a hobbyist unit trying to solder to G-scale track.
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Allan
Wiring for DCC
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Resistance soldering unit
Time to purchase a soldering unit but not sure which one.
Track is the new Atlas HO code 100 NS. Feeder wire is 22 guage solid.
American Beauty units being considered.
10502 with light tweezers.
10504 with standard tweezers.
105A12 with plier or tweezer system?? Light or standard capacity?
These are 250 watt units as Allan recommends 150 t0 170 watts for soldering.
Should I be considering any other units??
Thanks.
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Double main line with two crossovers wiring diagram
Hello all,
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I am looking for a wiring diagram withe a double main line and 2 crossovers (to go from main line 1 to main line 2 and vice versa). I plan to use signals, JMRI and Digitrax block detection, etc. Jim Worcester had produced a very good video on that subject explaining how to use Logix in JMRI.? I am a software engineer so I could follow his train of thoughts. Where I am less confident is the track wiring itself. I think (but not sure) that each turnouts would be its own detection block with logic feed back to JMRI for determination of whether the turnout is closed or thrown. The diagram should shown where gaps are made on the track.
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I bought Alan new book, but the answer was not there (As a constructive feedback, the detection and last chapter was on a diet :-) )
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Thanks
Yves |
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Re: Sub bus interference
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý?Thanks for the reply Alan. ?I model the NYC in 1944. I have one main bus for the passenger mains and another for the freight mains. ? These will be run about 5 1/2 inches below the rail. For signaling purposes, I¡¯m running a sub bus approximately 2 1/2 inches below each track the length of each block. Each sub bus will connect back to the main bus through a BD-20, as in the simple bus (one wire) you and Mark had diagrammed. ?I¡¯ve read quite a bit but I guess you¡¯re never quite sure until you try it. ?I¡¯m in o scale and an A-B-B-A set of All Nation units pulling up a grade with open frame motors can pull close to 8 amps and if I¡¯m not mistaken, the greater the current, the greater reach the EMI has. ?I¡¯m still concerned about the bus spacing, however the closest spacing of untwisted pairs are still the rails. ?I¡¯m hoping that¡¯s a suitable model to build on.? Mike On Oct 12, 2024, at 12:30?PM, Allan AE2V <bigboy@...> wrote:
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Sub bus interference
Good morning gentlemen. I have a simple question. I¡¯m running a single wire sub bus for block detection. This wire will basically be in contact with the tortoise switch machine housings. Since the DCC signal will also be passing through the switch machine, is there reason for concern here? |
fire5506
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