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Bill Not electrically, have no fear.? However, practically, if you're in a wet environment(Scotchlok connectors are often used in automotive, trailers, etc.), those holes could admit moisture, which

Not as long as they are openings are unable to touch another conductor. I would put some liquid tape on them Sent: Tuesday, August 3, 2021 9:23 AM To: [email protected] Subject: [w4dccqa] Scotchlok

Recently, I had to remove several track feeders that were connected to my layout's bus with scotchlok connectors. Removing the scotchlok connectors, however, inevitably results in open punctures of

I did not twist my power bus when I installed it, but the two wires for the most part are fairly close together and easily could be taped together. While I suspect that this would have the same effect

I have an AF locomotive that I picked up a few years ago that has a Dallee Hi Line Sound card in it. I recently acquired a Digitrax DH465 converter. I was wondering if anyone has tried to marry the

I use the Digikeijs system (command station & boosters). It does a fantastic job of keeping voltage regulated. No matter where I test on my layout I get 15.1 volts and all locos run with no problem.

Dan, I believe that dual Frog Juicer has a jumper that you need to put in place that gets the two halves of the dual Frog Juicer to work together.? I know the hex Juicers are like that.? You need

I asked this on another topic posting earlier but am still having problems. I am using NCE as my system and have a dual frog juicer connected to my bridge track. My trains will run onto and off the

Several things can cause the start and stop. Dirty track is the most obvious, especially if Loks stop at the same spot every time! DC confusion detection is also common on some layouts. In CV29 (or

Zero chance you damaged the locomotives.? Start by cleaning your wheels on your locomotives.? I use clipper oil but Isopropyl alcohol will work too.? Put it on a paper towel and run the locomotives

The intermittent running on A locomotive a sign of dirty wheels. f it occurs on several locomotives in one area try cleaning the track and check wired connections and rail joints. The voltage drop is

The motor hooked up to a DCC decoder does not see the track voltage.? So if you have 13.6 for your track voltage, you are fine. If too much voltage was a problem, you would have fried something and

That’s why many of us use “Keep alives” so that we can overcome bad conductivity i.e. “Dirty Track” Robert J. Richter 283 Elm Street North Reading, MA 01864 Sent: Saturday, July 3, 2021 1:53

Try cleaning the contacts (wheels)on your locos and the track. Sounds like poor electric continuity. Then check your feeder connections and rail connections if using those for electricity supply to

What is the preferred or correct DCC voltage? I'm new to DCC. i started with the NCE Powercab and have recently upgraded to the SB5 booster. On the power supply for the booster there is a switch where

Eric/Ric, If what Don wrote is true, that all you can do is power it from the DCC system, then I'd say, don't do it, unless you have a great surplus of DCC power. DCC power is relatively expensive,

Eric/Ric … what do you expect the DT-1 to do on a DCC system? Just get operating power from the track? (Add an external full wave rectifier between DCC power and the DC input to the board) You still

I've found a fiberglass scratch brush is great for cleaning the rail before soldering. It takes paint and scenery materials off quickly without damaging the ties like a Dremel tool can. I'll often use

Thanks for the advice. I went ahead and ordered 2 of them because one of my other locomotives with LED's needs one.? One of them has both front and rear flashing ditchlights. I can't figure out where

What happened to my original question? This has gotten way off topic in a hurry. Eric "Ric" Zimmerman