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Wildlife. (how about a name?) Here's all I know about Axles, The one ton Toyota chas came with two types. Floating, and Non-floating. Non- floating has only one set of bearings on the inside end of the axle. Floating, has a set of bearings on both inside and outside ends of the axle. In other words the Axle is "floated" by bearings on each end. The Floating type is very apparent to the eye, as it is a large,cast hub. My 86 has Floating, my friend's 85 has non-floating. The problems occured in the non-floating axles with after- market dual wheel add ons. I would suggest you pull up the http://www.happycampers.net web site and read what's there on the recalls, as it's too extensive to re-run here. Good luck. Jack A2

When I bought my chinook and sunrader, neither had the dulies on the rear end. It is not that big of a deal with the chinook, but I know the sunrader would drive smoother with the dulies. My only option is buying a rather expensive kit unless I can find someone parting out. Any suggestions. Also I hear alot of talk of axel systems and trouble related to them, How can I know for sure if this is a problem with mine and is there any possibility of having Toyota still take care of this even though the recall is past

Hope everyone had a good Christmas and all, I was gone for the day and when I got home it took me a while to catch up on all the toyota messages. Glad you enjoyed the Chinook page Nate, tell dad he's a good man not getting rid of the Chinook. As far as the 79 Sunrader, why do you guys tempt me like that? I got too many Toyotas around here now so I better pass or the wife will have me living in one on the street. At one time I had a phone number for a Toyota motorhome hotline that they would tell you if your particular rig was effected by the recall or not but can't find the number now. The recall was for rigs from around 86 and earlier, Toyota started supplying the one ton chassis in the 86 models so they all had the newer one ton axles under them, but the recall has been over for some time now and as of a couple years ago there were still a couple of the coach manufacturers still standing behind the axle upgrade but not paying the total bill as during the recall. They would supply the axle kit but you had to pay freight and installation. I lucked out and found one of the original kits for sale and bought it and installed it in my 78 Odessey, not a bolt in job either, they were made for the 79 and newer chassis. My folks own a 91 Winnabago Toyota with the V6, auto trans, 21' and they average around 13-16 MPG depending on the terrain. Better go let this Christmas dinner digest now, have a good one, Nolan

I want to thank everone for joining this site. I started this site because of my frustration of not finding any sites for our beloved toyota motorhomes. The problem is there are so many different boxes made by so many different companies. The other problem is they no longer make toyota motorhomes. The only site I have found is the happy camper site. Keep spreading the word on this site, the more members we can get the better. Merry Christmas Nate

Hey Nate, should have said tell grandpa he's a good man for not getting rid of the chinook instead of dad. Figured I would throw my 2 cents worth in here on the dual rear wheel setups. If you can find one and can afford it go with the newer one ton axle and the seperate rear dual wheels, much better way to go. The old style of rear duals that were 2 wheels welded together with the sleeve in the center are around but hard to find, don't know if anyone is even making them anymore or not, doubt it. But in actual use if traveling, if you have a flat on the road you either have to run a single spare or run with the flat until you find somewhere to repair it. They are heavy, and awkward to change, and most tire stores hate to mess with them because the tires have to be mounted and dismounted by hand cause you can't get a tire machine to work on the inner beads, they are nearly impossible to balance. If a person is intent on running them a couple of tips that will help the chances of less problems are to check the lugnut tightness often and to run more air pressure in the inside tire which helps carry more of the load centered over the axle bearing.

Do you guys know of any other sites where I might find toyota owners. I want to make as many people aware of this site as possible. Thanks, Nate

Nolan and list Were the one tons only supplied from 1986 up? Were the early ones 3/4 ton? Can the rearends and axle assemblys be swapped out from the 86s up, to the early units ? (I've seen them in the bone yards.) Jack A2

My grandpa had an automatic in his 1986 4 cylinder and it would not stay in overdrive. I know that he was able to adjust a cable ( like a adjusting the clutch cable in manual) once it was adjusted it stayed in overdrive longer. Not as much kicking in and out. He has since had a 5 speed manual transmission put into it. He could not be happier. Mileage increased dramitically. Nate

Hi Jacka2, Toyota started building the true one ton in 86, when in 86 they were available I'm not sure, mid to later models? they were only available as a cab chassis unit, not a pickup. In the early 80's toyota built the pickup in the standard, 3/4 ton, and 1 ton, they were just the standard truck rear axle with extra leaf springs, nothing special, the 1 ton had 2 or 3 extra leaf springs and 6 ply tires to give it the 1 ton rating. The early motorhomes were just the standard rear axle with extra springs or overloads for increased weight capacity. The true 1 ton floater axle was designed for the 86 and newer chassis but would fit back to 84 with no changes. If swapped into a 79-83 chassis the axle would fit the frame width fine, the E brake connection was no problem, the bottom Ubolt plates were different, the early models had the shocks both on the same side where the newer models had the staggered shocks and the kit supplied the newer staggered type plates, and the wheel cylinders needed to be changed in the rear to the early size, but were supplied in the kit. If swapped into a 78 or earlier chassis the body style that still had 4 headlights, the spring pads on the differintial had to be removed and moved inboard an inch or so because the frame width is narrower, the Ubolt/shock plates needed the same side style as the 79- 83, I had to fabricate mine, the E brake had to be adapted to hook up to the early style, not a big problem, and the driveline flange on the rear third member had to be changed to the early style to fit the ujoint bolt pattern, and also the wheel cylinders were changed to the early type. It was a bit of work but not a real tough job and the piece of mind was worth it knowing the rear axle wasn't going to break off at some unknown time. Also if a person does make the change, try to get the 1 ton rear springs along with the axle, they are pretty stout and easier than having to build up a set of springs like I did.

Jack A2, Pulling the rear axle assembly from the bone yard flat bed would be the ideal way to go, get the springs and all. The axles, hubs, ect. from the 1 ton won't interchange with the stock toyota rear axle, the 1 ton floater is physically bigger with gussets welded onto the axle tubes for added support and also have the brackets welded onto the housing for the sway bar if one wanted to install that too. The gear ratio's are the same and the driveline connection should bolt right up, if not the flange off the Sunrader stock rear will fit on the floater, just remove the pinion nut, exchange the flange, and replace the pinion nut, Make sure to use a new nut, torque to specs and stake it in place and your in business. One note I might throw in concerning the floater rear axle that some owners might not know is, the rear wheel bearings are "NOT" lubricated from the gear oil in the rear end, they are a grease packed bearing the same as the front wheels, and should be checked and packed on a regular basis.

I just want to thank all of you who have joined our group. I would like to encourage everybody to introduce themselves and include a description of your Toyota. I also want to make sure everybody keeps spreading the word about our group. Thanks, Nate

I have a 1985 Huntsman w/5 spd and only 40,000 miles which I bought from the original owner. I have a couple of questions 1) The source and cost of a true dual axel kit? If salvage, what would be a good price? Does anybody know if any companies still have the kits sent out by toyota to rv makers who are still in business? 2) I have some small leaks around the front - not at the window but shows up as a stain on the seam on the ceiling inside and down the side seams inside close to the front. It appears like the source could be under the rubber molding where the metal track is screwed on outside- any thoughts before I tear into this? 3) I put about 15,000 miles on this and now the engine has developed what is called a "piston slap" for about 5 minutes during warmup. No other problems but this ringing sound when it is first started for a few miles. Should I be worried? Overall, what a way to go - 18-19 mpg and self contained as well! I appreciate finding this site. Thanks in advance for the help from all you "toyota fanatics" including myself. george_oviatt@... _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

I agree with Redman. On the VW Vanagons we learned the Frams would not hold the oil in the heads on shut down. I would never run a Fram or other cheap filter in any engine. I too only run dealer filters. Jack A2

Nate I made it to the site. I'm a previous Toyota motorhome owner. I traded for a newer Nissan motorhome. I loved the Toyota and made alot of trips in it. I pulled a 19ft inboard boat about 600 miles into Canada fishing several years ago. The 4cyl 4 speed didn't run away from traffic, but got there in good fashion. The Nissan I just got is a 4cyl 5 speed, Mini-cruiser. It runs and drives real well and I am looking forward to going to the Rockies from Ohio next summer in it. If anyone else has owned a Nissan Motorhome let me hear from you. Mike

Hi George, Water leaks can be a real bugger to find sometimes, it can leak on one side and migrate across the roof before showing up on the other side. The roof edge molding might be a good place to check, or the clearance lights across the front. Good luck on your hunt. About 4 years ago when I replaced the rear axle in my toyhouse I was told the recall was over but there were still 2 or 3 of the coach manufacturers still standing behind the axle upgrade, Dolphin was one of them, can't remember the others. If the particular coach was on the recall list and not checked off they would supply the axle kit but you had to pay freight and installation to have it fixed, during the recall it was free of charge for the total package. Most of the numerous coach builders at the time couldn't absorb the cost of the recall so they went out of business or filed bankruptcy, or reopened under another name ect. My Odessey was one that didn't get fixed so when I went looking for a rear axle, Toyota quoated me around 3700.00 for the axle kit not installed. Used ones that I found ranged from 1700. to 1900.00 as is no warranty. I really couldn't justify that expense so I was about to give up when I found one in a nickel ad paper a guy had for sale, turned out it was brand new still in the crate, one of the recall kits that never got installed and I paid 1000.00 for it. At todays prices I don't know what they sell for but there may be more used ones around so they might be easier to find.

Thanks to all for the tips. As for the piston slap, I have always used toyota filters. The mechanics here say it could be a piece of carbon and one has customer (4 -runner) with 250,000 and a piston slap that started at about 25,000. So I guess I won't worry until excessive oil use starts or something like that. I tried Toyota (no help and evasive about their participation before))and even a while back traced down a lead on an axel kit from coachman but they wouldn't sell to me because mine was a huntsman. Of couse as they say about paybacks - I travel alot and never miss the chance to talk about what they wouldn't do for me - so I hope it has cost them a sale or two. It appears to me that after you go on the natl. transportation site and look at all the axel problems, even recently, with toyota rvs and in view of the fact that toyota recognized the problem and was willing to help (accepting some responsibility by doing so)at one time, a case could be made to them to help again. I certainly am a good customer with three toyotas including a 19991 Rav. Any thoughts out there? George _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

I am glad you were able to find the site. I hope you find the posts interesting and informative. Spread the word on the site we are up to 17 members in less than a week. Nate

I would take a look on the roof to see if there are any visible cracks. Then I would buy a can of that black tar for roofs and slap it on any possible leak areas or seems. I was able to repair some leaks I had on a previous truck camper this way. As far as piston slap I would try an oil additive such as dura lube, motor-up, or slick 50. I have used all of these products on previous vehicles. I put dura lube and motor-up in my Toyota this summer. On our 6,000 mile vacation this summer I only used 2 quarts of oil, and that was during the last 2,000 miles. Nate

I was wondering how much your solar panels package cost and how difficult it was to install? It seems like solar panels make alot more sense than a generator. Nate

Thanks for the info on the panels. I would be running house lights, water pump, and possibly a small tv. This is a possible future project. Thanks, Nate